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View Full Version : Planter repair finally finished...


PurpHaze
10-16-2007, 01:33 PM
Finally had the chance to catch up on some repairs that have been lingering for awhile. A few pics... and No we didn't wrap the galvanized. After all... we're unskilled sprinkler maintenance guys. We figure we'll both be long gone before it rusts out and then plumbers can redo it. :)

Mjtrole
10-16-2007, 05:04 PM
Who makes those enclosures?

irrig8r
10-16-2007, 05:10 PM
I noticed that's a Hunter Pro ASV. I like the flow characteristics, the solenoid, the captured bonnet crews, etc.

What I've had trouble with is that the sockets appear to have less taper than others. In other words, PVC male adapters screw in until they bottom out, even with 5 or 6 wraps of Christy 3/4 Teflon tape.

I've had to go back and reinstall a couple of valves on three different jobs this past week.

I just noticed you're using galvanized risers.... do they bottom out too?

Mike Leary
10-16-2007, 05:12 PM
Where do the valve wires go? No conduit thru the pad?:nono: :laugh:

FIMCO-MEISTER
10-16-2007, 05:23 PM
Where do the valve wires go? No conduit thru the pad?:nono: :laugh:

I bet it ends up being a Hunter battery timer. Since i'm dinky pipe man what is that behind the valve? Some kinda QC?

Mike Leary
10-16-2007, 05:33 PM
I bet it ends up being a Hunter battery timer. Since i'm dinky pipe man what is that behind the valve? Some kinda QC?

No clue..hate to see dissimilar metals tho. Hope Jon doesn't get the red line
out!:cry:

WalkGood
10-16-2007, 07:06 PM
No clue..hate to see dissimilar metals tho. Hope Jon doesn't get the red line
out!:cry:


Brass and galvanized should not be an issue.

Mike Leary
10-16-2007, 07:33 PM
Brass and galvanized should not be an issue.

Bulls..t:hammerhead: :hammerhead: :hammerhead: Diaelectric couplings were not made for nothing.

gusbuster
10-16-2007, 09:05 PM
I noticed that's a Hunter Pro ASV. I like the flow characteristics, the solenoid, the captured bonnet crews, etc.

What I've had trouble with is that the sockets appear to have less taper than others. In other words, PVC male adapters screw in until they bottom out, even with 5 or 6 wraps of Christy 3/4 Teflon tape.

I've had to go back and reinstall a couple of valves on three different jobs this past week.

I just noticed you're using galvanized risers.... do they bottom out too?

How are you doing your valves installs, PVC male adapter, toe nipple?

I got sick of tired and didn't like that Hunter said to use Spears fittings, so I now use slip versions that solved my problems. The only worry that I have is the use of too much solvent(even then, no biggie, just pop the bonnet off and clean). So far, no problems. As far as local supplier, the only reliable source has been J.D.L. Can get them through Horizon, but need to special order and Ewing, not sure about them.

Kiril
10-16-2007, 10:07 PM
I bet it ends up being a Hunter battery timer. Since i'm dinky pipe man what is that behind the valve? Some kinda QC?

Maybe a water hammer arrestor?

Kiril
10-16-2007, 10:11 PM
Bulls..t:hammerhead: :hammerhead: :hammerhead: Diaelectric couplings were not made for nothing.

According to my pocket protector catalog for Watts, that would be dielectric union Model 3003.

http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?catId=64&parCat=212&pid=573&ref=2

WalkGood
10-16-2007, 11:03 PM
Bulls..t:hammerhead: :hammerhead: :hammerhead: Diaelectric couplings were not made for nothing.

Use that :hammerhead: on yourself a few times. Dielectric unions aren't for all water type. Hard water makes them clog up.

Oh and I guess Purp doesn't know what he's doing? putting brass on that galv pipe? He knows what will be OK.

Look here, http://www.thelenchannel.com/1galv.php ..... if you can understand it then you'll see that brass on galv is OK.

CAPT Stream Rotar
10-17-2007, 06:11 AM
Use that :hammerhead: on yourself a few times. Dielectric unions aren't for all water type. Hard water makes them clog up.

Oh and I guess Purp doesn't know what he's doing? putting brass on that galv pipe? He knows what will be OK.

Look here, http://www.thelenchannel.com/1galv.php ..... if you can understand it then you'll see that brass on galv is OK.

Text
Book
Callout.

::takes notes::

FIMCO-MEISTER
10-17-2007, 06:20 AM
Text
Book
Callout.

::takes notes::

CSR did you understand that chart? Too early in the morning for me to study dissolved salt numbers. I like using brass on plastic and have never needed those diaelectictiectec unions.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:19 AM
Who makes those enclosures?

I'm not sure but we order them through Ewing and other suppliers. They're basically BF enclosures.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:21 AM
I just noticed you're using galvanized risers.... do they bottom out too?

They didn't totally bottom out. I just made sure they were fairly tight.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:22 AM
Where do the valve wires go? No conduit thru the pad?:nono: :laugh:

There's a Hunter WVC attached to the solenoid. No close-ups because I've posted others from this same grouping of valves in the past.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:25 AM
Since i'm dinky pipe man what is that behind the valve? Some kinda QC?

It's a 1" brass "loose key" hose bibb.

I see a dielectric discussion went on ad nauseam... we've never had problems with galvanized to brass connections in this manner.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:27 AM
Oh and I guess Purp doesn't know what he's doing? putting brass on that galv pipe? He knows what will be OK.

Thanks for calling the Polyanna's out on this one. :laugh:

Wet_Boots
10-17-2007, 08:38 AM
Hey, the galvanic connection is outdoors, so big whoop. Indoors, behind a plaster wall, with hudreds of carpentry dollars involved in repair and replacement? That would be worthy of concern.

FIMCO-MEISTER
10-17-2007, 08:48 AM
It's a 1" brass "loose key" hose bibb.

I see a dielectric discussion went on ad nauseam... we've never had problems with galvanized to brass connections in this manner.

Loose key? I'm still curious. Can you post a brand and link. looks very useful.
Thanks

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 08:52 AM
Loose key? I'm still curious. Can you post a brand and link. looks very useful.
Thanks

I'll get back... heading for work. :)

Wet_Boots
10-17-2007, 09:03 AM
Champion makes those hose bibs in regular and loose-key configurations, and I'll bet you can get imported knockoffs from Lawnlife.

Mike Leary
10-17-2007, 11:45 AM
Thanks for calling the Polyanna's out on this one. :laugh:

Never doubted your expertise...must be the rain & humidity + cheap galvi
we have up here...have had huge problems...interesting.:)

Kiril
10-17-2007, 01:36 PM
Loose key? I'm still curious. Can you post a brand and link. looks very useful.
Thanks

Watts makes one: http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull.asp?pid=725&ref=1

Nibco lockable vacuum break: http://www.nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=263

Arrowhead Brass (http://www.arrowheadbrass.com/products/index.html) has a very nice selection: http://www.arrowheadbrass.com/catalog/ARRPRODCat.pdf

FIMCO-MEISTER
10-17-2007, 01:59 PM
Watts makes one: http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull.asp?pid=725&ref=1

Nibco lockable vacuum break: http://www.nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=263

Arrowhead Brass (http://www.arrowheadbrass.com/products/index.html) has a very nice selection: http://www.arrowheadbrass.com/catalog/ARRPRODCat.pdf

Okay now I've got it figured out. The hose attachment is not visible in the pic. I've got a key for those I use on commercial buildings.

Mike Leary
10-17-2007, 02:10 PM
That Arrowhead stuff looks neat..made in U.S.A.!

Kiril
10-17-2007, 03:29 PM
That Arrowhead stuff looks neat..made in U.S.A.!

Agreed, very nice selection of hose bibbs.

Mike Leary
10-17-2007, 07:12 PM
Never doubted your expertise...must be the rain & humidity + cheap galvi
we have up here...have had huge problems...interesting.:)

Talked with another contractor today who has had the dissimilar problems
too..he claimed it was the salt we had in our island soil,most of our sites
are waterfront.

irrig8r
10-17-2007, 09:25 PM
Talked with another contractor today who has had the dissimilar problems
too..he claimed it was the salt we had in our island soil,most of our sites
are waterfront.

We have the same problem here. For us it's clay soil. Bury galvanized and brass together is asking for trouble. I'm remembering back to my soil science classes to recall that the fine particles of clay soil have a small electrical charge at the molecular level. I think that contributes.

PurpHaze
10-17-2007, 09:29 PM
It was a Champion... like Boots said. :)

Dirty Water
10-17-2007, 11:39 PM
I left my red lines at my desk at work.

However, the galvanized male to PCV/Nylon female raises my eyebrow.

Who cares, Purp is going to be in WA kicking back and drinking a brew when it breaks.

irrig8r
10-18-2007, 08:33 PM
Ran across a PVB that was installed using 12" galv. nipples from the PVC femal adapters 6" underground on up. In only seven years, the galv nipples, unions, etc. were all heavily corroded. When I took it apart I took a small screwdriver and knocked off a few of the rusty scab-like clumps on the inside of a 1" x 3" nipple and exposed daylight though the threads.

Much more corrosion on the inside than the outside, and the further away from the brass the less there was. I replaced all the pipe and fittings w/ SCH 80 PVC and it should do fine because it's on the shady side of the house and protected from cold by an overhang...

This was in our typical lower foothills alluvial clay soil... reddish or yellowish subsoil, with a lot of sandstone and shale, and occasional other more interesting rocks like red jasper. In it's native unamended state it can get pretty nasty to work with... Anyway,

irrig8r
10-18-2007, 08:36 PM
BTW, this is kinda interesting,

Effects of Soil Characteristics on Corrosion
By Victor Chaker, J. David Palmer

http://books.google.com/books?id=3xSG5teIPuYC&dq=metal+corrosion+in+clay+soil&pg=PA96&ots=t-N622Xv-x&sig=J4wR2bBtL07ial6pwj8_H9p1Vb0&prev=http://www.google.com/search%3Fhl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%253Aen-US%253Aofficial%26hs%3DJM0%26q%3Dmetal%2Bcorrosion%2Bin%2Bclay%2Bsoil%26btnG%3DSearch&sa=X&oi=print&ct=result&cd=1&cad=legacy#PPP1,M1