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zliminator
10-29-2007, 07:26 PM
I'm on an apt. complex and the timer box is seperated from a zone that doesn't work by an asphalt parking lot. The parking lot goes all the way around the building, so short of running an arial, I can't get to the valve with a new low-voltage wire. I was thinking maybe there's some kind of remote control gadget that uses RF, but then I don't have power out at the valve unless there's something that uses batteries. However, I did measure between 2 and 3 volts on the wire that goes to the valve when 1 particular zone is on so I'm hoping that I can find that the wire has been crimped or something before it goes under the parking lot.

Dan

BrandonV
10-29-2007, 07:39 PM
dig valves OR just maybe use a diamond blade saw, and cut you a trench if you must, then use some of that "asphalt repair" goop that comes in a tube. or call purphaze and he'll bring his backhoe over.

Mike Leary
10-29-2007, 07:49 PM
Battery units are a pain, but if you must, Rain Bird makes the "Unik" &
Nelson makes the "Solo Rain", Nelson unit cheaper, screws into the solenoid
port, adapters made for most major brands. Both are "latching solenoids"
so battery life is not a problem. No spare anywhere? Are you SURE the wire
is toast under the drive? Sleeves? Do some more checking.:) Got a 521 locator?

Without A Drought
10-29-2007, 08:07 PM
I agree with Leary. Check the solenoid, check power from the wire (which it looks like you did). then locate the entry/exit point at the parking lot and check power there. Basically, make sure your problem is under the parking lot before you explore other options. In my exp., it's usually not under the hard surface, rather at the edges of it.

That said, i've had the best long term efficacy from hunter's SVC/WRC latching system.

good luck.

pg

mdvaden
10-29-2007, 08:48 PM
Are the buildings on a concrete pad, or crawlspace with pier blocks?

zliminator
10-30-2007, 12:15 PM
I'm pretty sure its a concrete pad. I'm going to do some more digging today. I'll let you know what happens.

Dan

Mike Leary
10-30-2007, 05:19 PM
If it helps, I had a zone that would not activate today, put the VOM in "OHM"
valve solenoid was fine, no break..a bad connection @ the clock!

CAPT Stream Rotar
10-30-2007, 05:38 PM
If it helps, I had a zone that would not activate today, put the VOM in "OHM"
valve solenoid was fine, no break..a bad connection @ the clock!

First thing i do when a zone don't fire is check wiring in clock..
you?

Mike Leary
10-30-2007, 06:27 PM
First thing i do when a zone don't fire is check wiring in clock..
you?

I "peek", most clocks are a ratsnest & you can really start having fun by
moving wires around..If I can pull the common off the terminal..home
free..touch the second lead of the VOM to the station terminals & record the
resistance...20 to 60 ohms..this proves the field wiring. You are then moving to phase 2, lumpy gravy, clock &/or valve weirdness. :dizzy:

Shuvelin'
10-31-2007, 10:58 AM
Assuming that there really is no simple solution with the wiring, I would suggest a battery operated valve. I have used the Hunter SVC-100 with great success. If you want RF, they also make a WVP (hand held programmer) and WVC (controller in the valve box) that work great.

zliminator
11-12-2007, 12:57 AM
I dug up the wire back to where it goes under the asphalt on both sides and found a big wad of elec. tape. I replaced it with wire nuts and waterproofed it. Works fine.

Dan