View Full Version : Christmas Lights On Ridgeline
Just wondering how everyone is installing c9's on rooflines with asphalt shingles? I have usually used the clips you can get about anywhere but have been wondering if there is a better way than having to pry up the ridge line shingles to get the tab under?
Has anyone tried clear silicone?
11-12-2007, 11:39 PM
I see alot of people staple them. I tried it but I don't want the liability. I have used clips, when I do it, I don't put my clip directly in the center of the ridge shingle. If you do get it unstuck you will tear it. If you stay on the side of the shingle you can get under it without tearing it. I think it is a pain. You have to be really careful to get your lights spaced evenly also.
11-13-2007, 06:54 AM
3" putty knife / paint scraper
11-16-2007, 07:56 AM
This is a good question.
The easiest place is on the edge of the rige shingles. That way you can maintain the spacing easily and attaches pretty quick. However it seems it would obscure the view of the light from the opposite side.
If you try to get it close to the center, its harder to slip in and you have to go to the nearest shingle edge which can mess up your spacing.
so what it the best way?
The only person I've seen staple is Chevy Chase!
11-16-2007, 05:35 PM
shingle tabs with one tab sticking out and one in the shingle. They line up nicely and can be seen from both sides.
11-18-2007, 08:16 AM
Here in FL the tabs are glued down for hurricane resistance, if you pry it up I would assume you have to shoot roof adhesive in when removing? To do a gable would you use the tab edge or I was thinking of stainless screw eyes and a dab of white paint to hide.
Got mine up yesterday....I used the regular tabs to hold the lights and used the putty knife idea to help get them under when needed. For the most part it went pretty easy. There were several that were stuck down pretty good but the putty knife made it easier without tearing up the shingles.
I was afraid it would be harder than it was since this is a 2 year old roof but it wasn't bad.
11-18-2007, 01:45 PM
I'm still without a solution. Below is a pic of the house I just did. I have a putty knife but I cannot get the plast tab under a shingle near to top/center of the ridge. It wants to tear the shingle if you get anywhere near it.
The way I did it here worked because this house is on a dogleg turn of the street.
Even if you could get it to go into the edge of the shingle you loose your 1ft spacing.
BTW, my phonecam was mistakenly set on some effect so it's a bad picture.
Mine went under every other shingle. It is probably around 9-10" instead of 1ft but it looks nice and you would never know unless you look for it. Your shingles there may have been glued down more or something I dont know? Have you tried clear silicone? I was going to test this to see if it came off ok but never got around to it. I thought about siliconing the tabs then the next day set the lights.
11-19-2007, 09:09 AM
We do every other shingle as well. But, we dont use those style tabs so I'm not sure how thick the plastic, so they may be more difficult to get into the shingle. I know the all in one tabs we use are harder to get in the shingles
11-19-2007, 08:15 PM
ah thats what it is then, the all in one. I didn't think of that. Need shingle only tabs i bet.
11-19-2007, 11:38 PM
Ever since Christmas Decor lost that Class action lawsuit on ridgeline lights and causing leaks in roofs, I have not done ridglines unless client signs a waver for liability. every year you lift up the shingle and break the seal, then expect it to seal up in the winter after taking it out in January? It is like ASKING the roof to leak. good luck, 11 days of prime selling left.
11-20-2007, 07:17 PM
wow, learn something new everyday. So even with a waiver why do them?
I've done my own ridge line for the past 4 or 5 years with no leaks. I could see how they could leak but no problem with mine.
11-20-2007, 11:00 PM
I bid a house the other day, the homeowner had done his lights previously. a few years ago he went up and down all the peaks, valleys, ridges, with screw in hooks. he had at least 50-70 hooks screwed throught the shingles into the wood deck.
what planet does he live on where it makes sense to put screws through an asphalt shingle roof on a 450,000 dollar house. I asked him if his roof was leaking, and he said he didn't think so. I was scared to do the job for fear of him suing me for damage he caused with all his hooks.
11-21-2007, 08:43 PM
Admitedly I don't know much about christmas lights but I do know this.
When a shingle gets damaged in a hail storm(im in north texas) it hardly ever it puts a hole in the roof. What it does is bruises a shingle. Then down road it leaks. So I figure any staple or any puncture regardless how small is a no no.
I live kinda out in the country. My only option for hi speed internet is a wireless line of site connection where they point an antenna at a nearby water tower. So I have this 15ft antenna on a tripod mounted to my roof. It took a lot for me to allow some yaehoo to put three big srews in my roof but then again how do you live without the internet?
11-22-2007, 02:57 AM
I agree, sometimes you got to have breaks in the roof. I was watching Christmas Decor do an install the other day, they do seem to be cutting back on those whole roof outline designs. but they love the harness approach even while doing only the facias, or soffits. they had one of those rigs to anchor to the roof. 4 big decking scres right into each ridge cap to go up and down each or 3 peaks in the front. I use a ladder and work from the front. no screws.
I surely hope they dab silicone in the holes when they take out the screws for the harness achor. even then, after 3-5 years of install and takedown, what does that ridge cap look like? swiss cheese? I am OK with a harness for those unique situations where you cannot get to the lights with a ladder, but I avoid invading the roof with fasteners if I can possible avoid it.
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