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View Full Version : Need to Vent. I hate my truck.


stuffdeer
12-01-2007, 04:16 AM
Hey everyone,

I'm kind of frustrated right now, and need to vent.

As everyone knows, for my work and personal truck, I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 2wd, with the 4 cylinder/5 speed combo.

Nice truck, Love the looks, and has decent power for only being a 2.2. But it seems that as soon as I start saying that I love this truck to people something else goes wrong.

List of things I must diagnose now.

1. Hard Starting in cold
2. Check Engine light
3. Oil Leak
4. Powersteering Leak

Now, 1 and 2 have been known for a while. I just dont need to fix them yet. However, the last two leaks, have just popped up within the last two weeks.

It just seems that it is one thing after another with this truck. Bear with me in the next paragraph.

Now, ever since I can remember, my family has been buying Fords. This truck was bought to a replacement to my Dad's jeep that took a crap. The truck was bougt used from my uncle who RARELY used it. It's been a good truck, but since I've had it, it's been a lot of little things that have been going wrong with it. My family has never had any MAJOR problems with any Fords we have, but with this truck, its just one after another.

So as I sit and write this, I'm looking at the Ford Ranger. Which looks like a decent replacement to this in the next year or so.

Scag48
12-01-2007, 05:11 AM
All are easy fixes, consider yourself lucky and get over yourself.

-Hard start is probably battery/alternator
-Check engine light, who cares? Half the time they just need to be reset for something stupid. I basically shrug them off.
-Oil leak, bit of an issue to pinpoint, but unless you have a serious issue I wouldn't worry about it. I've seen oil leaks due to poor seating of the gasket on the drain plug, filters not spun on all the way, etc..
-Power steering pump is easy, buy a new one, they're not worth trying to fix usually

My personal car is a '98 Audi A4. Timing belt was done at 75K miles, should have been good for another 60K at least. At 121K, the belt snapped, causing interference with all 5 valves on cylinder 1, zero compression. The service manager and the techs at the dealership where I sent the car, my best friend who is an auto tech and VW/Audi enthusiast/technician, plus 30+ friends in a local Audi club say this premature failure of the timing belt was an absolute fluke and is practically unheard of, assuming the belt was changed when it should have been, which it was. $6,300 later, the car runs and it's not worth a whole lot more than that. But what was I going to do? Nobody wants a car that doesn't run. Granted this is a German car, little different scenario for part costs, etc.. But if you wanna talk about bad luck, I'd preach to someone else, you have no more than $500 worth of repairs to make. Welcome to the world of NOT having a $700 a month truck payment or more, at the end of the year you're still thousands ahead of those with massive truck payments. People don't seem to understand this. If you want a perfect vehicle, go spend $50K on a new truck.

stuffdeer
12-01-2007, 08:22 AM
All are easy fixes, consider yourself lucky and get over yourself.

-Hard start is probably battery/alternator
-Check engine light, who cares? Half the time they just need to be reset for something stupid. I basically shrug them off.
-Oil leak, bit of an issue to pinpoint, but unless you have a serious issue I wouldn't worry about it. I've seen oil leaks due to poor seating of the gasket on the drain plug, filters not spun on all the way, etc..
-Power steering pump is easy, buy a new one, they're not worth trying to fix usually

My personal car is a '98 Audi A4. Timing belt was done at 75K miles, should have been good for another 60K at least. At 121K, the belt snapped, causing interference with all 5 valves on cylinder 1, zero compression. The service manager and the techs at the dealership where I sent the car, my best friend who is an auto tech and VW/Audi enthusiast/technician, plus 30+ friends in a local Audi club say this premature failure of the timing belt was an absolute fluke and is practically unheard of, assuming the belt was changed when it should have been, which it was. $6,300 later, the car runs and it's not worth a whole lot more than that. But what was I going to do? Nobody wants a car that doesn't run. Granted this is a German car, little different scenario for part costs, etc.. But if you wanna talk about bad luck, I'd preach to someone else, you have no more than $500 worth of repairs to make. Welcome to the world of NOT having a $700 a month truck payment or more, at the end of the year you're still thousands ahead of those with massive truck payments. People don't seem to understand this. If you want a perfect vehicle, go spend $50K on a new truck.

Hard starting is not due to the alt or battery. Both were replaced less then 6 months ago. Its something with the mixture at the start. Something isn't sliding all the way shut. The engine light I can deal with, throttle body position sensor or something. But I hate leaks. A common problem on these s10s are the cam gaskets, and to fix that, I gotta pull the whole engine.

The powersteering looks easy to fix as well, its just everything goes wrong when I don't have the money to fix it, right around winter. Don't get me wrong, I have money saved up, for winter, but not for truck repairs.

CuttingEdge,LLC
12-01-2007, 02:04 PM
Check engine light is probably due to a bad 02 sensor. It happens a lot. If that is bad it can cause starting issues. Also check the MAS and maybe take it out and clean it with electrical cleaner. That happens often too. Replace power steering pump. And try to find your oil leak. Check the common places first. Good luck

KS_Grasscutter
12-01-2007, 02:13 PM
Replace power steering pump.


Yea I had a friend rebuild the power steering pump on my Chevy. Like $25 for the rebuild kit, and then I got him $30 worth of parts washer solvent to pay him back for fixing it. Then I ended up finding out a new pump is like $35... that definitely would have been the cheaper route to go:hammerhead:

AAXteriors
12-01-2007, 03:34 PM
As it gets cold these things happen. It's just the way it is. Also check the valve cover. They always seem to be the culprit for leaking oil.

mark_the_psycho
12-01-2007, 04:10 PM
OMG ITS DEJA VU
I had the exact same situation a while ago, I bought a '94 Ford Ranger with 62000 miles from my grandpa. He's had it since I was 5 and he RARELY used it (he went through 3 Lincoln Town Cars in the time he had the truck). I was on top of the world, I had a truck with low miles, good gas milage, and a 4.0L v6 that would give a Mustang a run for its money at the age of 15. It wasn't till I started using it for work that the problems started. First went the radiator, then the rear suspension, the right front brake locked up so I replaced the pads, drums, and something else (don't remember what), and a hole host of leaks and electrical problems. Anyways, the bottom line is, I was working it too hard. The guys at the shop (they're friends of mine and saw that this truck was eating all my profits) said "You're using it as a work truck, it's not meant to be a work truck, this is a "go out and look at a job and come back the next day with a real truck" truck. You need something bigger." Long story short, if you're haulin' stuff everyday, you need a bigger truck.

Now I drive this...
http://a345.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/34/l_875e935cf4aa05e3d0417231e02e0e68.jpg

Good luck :)

MJS
12-01-2007, 06:36 PM
Hey stuffdeer,

Get a Nissan or a Toyota - My Nissan has 164k and is showing no signs of slowing down as a work truck. Although, now that I say that, I have a friend who has 500,000 and counting miles on his '92 Ranger. :weightlifter:

mike lane lawn care
12-01-2007, 07:46 PM
it wasn't a work truck to begin with, i've said it before. i sold my 1/2 ton astro van with over 200,000 miles on her and she is still running strong. it isn't the vehicle's fault, it's yours, you are using a run around truck for work.

Petr51488
12-01-2007, 09:53 PM
it wasn't a work truck to begin with, i've said it before. i sold my 1/2 ton astro van with over 200,000 miles on her and she is still running strong. it isn't the vehicle's fault, it's yours, you are using a run around truck for work.

Sorry to say it, but he's right. You've got a very small truck that your using for tuff work. Get a real truck and you won't have the problems. It has nothing to do with a chevy/ford/dodge/nissan/toyota etc etc.

KS_Grasscutter
12-01-2007, 11:04 PM
Yea, get a work truck. For $500-$2000 you can get a damn nice work truck (or you can be like me and pay $4000 for a $2000 truck:hammerhead: ). Not worth it to booger up your nice S10 using it for a work truck.

Also, trucks that are rarely used/have low miles seem to go downhill when you use it a lot. Like my 84 Chevy I bought with like 87000 miles, last winter. I drive the heck out of it, I have put almost 6k miles on it in less than a year (although, thats less than half what I put on my other truck in a year), and those were NOT easy miles either. Much of the time pulling a 16' trailer. It has LOTS of minor leaks, and has a lot of "issues" that have showed up with using it. Of course I think the dealer spent quite a bit of time pretty'in it up to sell it too...

TWUllc
12-01-2007, 11:27 PM
Time to upgrade...

Grass Happens
12-02-2007, 01:17 AM
Hard start when cold, I'd have them check to make sure the injectors aren't plugged.
I have 92 ranger that I got from my grandpa, looooow miles, and yea, shes had some problems but all in all, shes a good truck. Is she an F350? No, And i try not to use her as such. As soon as i pay off the lien (had to use it for collateral to pay for some schooling) I'll get something nicer. Or maybe I'll just buy my buddies f250 6.9l diesel and cruise is rusty style... :)

YardPro
12-02-2007, 07:14 PM
LOL,

i can't believe you are actually blaming the truck....

you really think that the truck is not being KILLED by how you use it?

i think you need to look past the end of your nose...
you are using the smallest class of truck for work is is nowhere near rated for and you are blaming the manufacturer.

that is like complaining when your wal mort 21" mower can't cut an overgrown yard with grass 2 feet high..

stuffdeer
12-02-2007, 07:44 PM
LOL,

i can't believe you are actually blaming the truck....

you really think that the truck is not being KILLED by how you use it?

i think you need to look past the end of your nose...
you are using the smallest class of truck for work is is nowhere near rated for and you are blaming the manufacturer.

that is like complaining when your wal mort 21" mower can't cut an overgrown yard with grass 2 feet high..


I can see your point. And by this next statement, I'm not trying to be stupid or anything.

How am I overusing my truck. I am within the tow rating of the truck. And no where in the manual does in say "Dont tow a trailer 4 days a week"

I dont beat the crap out of it. I change the oil every 2.5k to 3k. It only has 54,000. I was it once or twice a week.

stuffdeer
12-02-2007, 07:45 PM
Yea, get a work truck. For $500-$2000 you can get a damn nice work truck (or you can be like me and pay $4000 for a $2000 truck:hammerhead: ). Not worth it to booger up your nice S10 using it for a work truck.

Also, trucks that are rarely used/have low miles seem to go downhill when you use it a lot. Like my 84 Chevy I bought with like 87000 miles, last winter. I drive the heck out of it, I have put almost 6k miles on it in less than a year (although, thats less than half what I put on my other truck in a year), and those were NOT easy miles either. Much of the time pulling a 16' trailer. It has LOTS of minor leaks, and has a lot of "issues" that have showed up with using it. Of course I think the dealer spent quite a bit of time pretty'in it up to sell it too...

I'm going to put as much money into a rusty old 2,000 truck as I am this s-10. So that makes no sense.

With 2k, all I will get is a rusted out early ninty's f-250 with 1 million miles around here.

Exact Rototilling
12-03-2007, 03:20 AM
The first thing I'd check is the fuel filter. When was the last time it was changed? Your mechanical issues are minor IMO. If you do your own maintenance get a manual and join an internet forum that caters to your truck so you can ask questions and get the tips you need. If not take it to a decent reputable shop and have it fixed. Don't waste time or money thinking about another small truck. :hammerhead:

I will part company with a number of the posters here. I don't see that the issues you are having has much of anything to do with it's supposed heavy industrial abusive use. These same issue can and will occur on grandma's truck that has the same mileage running empty. Unless you're overloading your truck, pulling excessively heavy trailers beyond it's capacity and such there is no reason to get a bigger truck just yet. Is the driving your doing really all that punishing? Get a bigger truck when you really need to. Just make do with the one you have. I agree that when you do get another truck get a full sized 1/2 or 3/4 ton but only when you really need it. I just saw another post today that someone was considering getting a S-10 for the light days to save on gas?

I'm the original owner of a 1985 Toyota 4x4 and it still has lots of life left in it. It is able to tow the trailer I have and the new 6 x 12 single axle enclosed I will buy as long as I don't exceed the towing specs? Yes. Power to spare? Absolutely not. Full throttle in the first 3 gears to keep up with impatient traffic? Yes. Hey it's paid for. So what if it only get 11 to 14 mpg when towing a trailer. It's way cheaper than a new truck. Besides it's a Toyota. So what if it only makes it to 250,000 miles instead of 300,000 due to the extra load and serve service from towing a trailer day after day like it was designed to. That's why manufactures have the serve service schedule in the manuals. Sure it doesn't look as nice as it did in the mid 90's. So it will be getting some TLC, upgrades, repainted canopy etc. and it will be good to go and won't look nearly as run down as many of the LCO beater trucks I see in my area.

When my business grows to the point of needing a riding mower then I will get a bigger trailer and 3/4 ton truck.

Travel'n Trees
12-03-2007, 06:08 AM
HEck the starting and ses light could be fuel related problems. Change your fuel and filter and try.

MarcSmith
12-03-2007, 08:54 AM
around here a CEL means you wont pass inspection...but I had an87 s10 2.8 v6 with auto with 187K on before i gave it to my folks. had to drop a tranny in it but when you haul 5 days with it...it bound to happen...

if its an actual leak. It leaves 2-3" circle on drive every night, then it needs to be fixed. but an oil seep, IMO is nothing to worry about...When I worked at Disney most of our truck were s-10 with 100 gallon spray rigs mounted...they saw low miles, but once they were turned on in the morning, they never got shut off except for lunch and breaks, and some trucks were used on all three shifts....never had any problems.

It all in how its maintained....

some car parts stores like pep boys and autzone will have a code reader behind the counter and the guys can read the codes and help you diagnose the CEL...and usually they dont charge.

freddyc
12-03-2007, 10:46 AM
everything that you've described are normal repair/ maintenance items.

Because you haven't said anything about how you're actually using your truck then the advice that you're over workiing it and need to get a bigger truck and your problems will go away is lame at best. Look at the repair forum...people with 1 ton trucks that are fairly new are posting problems. If you're blowing engines, transmissions and rear ends, suspension and front end parts you might be overworking it....none of these you mention. What do these people think ---that a bigger truck comes with some really rugged oxygen sensor?????? cmon. Ask these peole with the big fords if they had to replace the oil pan---gee, should have bought a 4 ton because you must be overworking your 3/4 ton!! Every make and model has design issues...some you know ahead of time, others you find out as you go. Toyotas are supposed to be bulletproof, yet they eat oxygen sensors and their front brakes suck.....does that mean you're over working the vehicle??? Bull.

Also, nobody can diagnose your problems from a 1000 miles away.... either do it yourself or get a real mechanic. If the one you go to says get a bigger truck then tell him to go and get new employment.

Some peole just can't have any luck with certain brands-- I can drive fords into the ground with very little repair needed but put me in a chevy and I'm at the mechanic every week.