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P.Services
12-28-2007, 11:45 PM
I'm going to look at a john deere ct332 ctl tomorrow morning that I'm thinking about buying. can i get some help with all the things that i should look at before i buy it? thanks for the help.

kreft
12-29-2007, 12:11 AM
I see i started a trend. cool

Look for dammage to the motor, make sure the person selling it goes over everything with you. Look at the wires, tracks, undercarriage, motor,hydrolics, cab, etc....

P.Services
12-29-2007, 12:16 AM
what do you mean a trend?

P.Services
12-29-2007, 12:17 AM
oh i just got it the link, yeah that was stole from you. i hate the long list of crap people write

Dirt Digger2
12-29-2007, 12:27 AM
smell the dipstick and make sure it doesn't smell like diesel fuel, look for leaks, make sure that both tracks go forward at the same speed, the tracks should be in good condition, check and make sure there isn't any visible wear or wobbly idlers, also if you can open the drain at the bottom of the fuel tank make sure no water is in there...but the best thing you can do is get an oil sample and have it sent away to be analyzed...

i'm guessing this is a used machine?

P.Services
12-29-2007, 12:28 AM
yes its used. thanks a lot for the info.

Dirt Digger2
12-29-2007, 12:33 AM
really take a hard look at the tracks, if it has worn tracks it will cost most likely between $2200 and $2500 to get new ones and that is if you put them on yourself, which is easiest if you have a forklift...good luck with it

P.Services
12-29-2007, 12:35 AM
it has new tracks and sprokets, so thats a very good thing. but it has high hours 1800

Scag48
12-29-2007, 06:21 AM
When you show up to look at it, open the engine compartment first and make sure the block is cold. I want to be the first guy starting that machine in the morning when I go to look at it, I don't like it when guys give it a chance to warm up. Once fired up, put it through it's paces. Once you shut her down, check the vitals, etc.. Make note as to their levels when the machine is cold, see if any fluctuate drastically. Coolant is somewhat important, as is it's color. Make sure it's not cloudy. Crankcase oil should not be runny (water) and should not smell like diesel. Function all hydraulics (except the aux. lines of course) through their full range of motion. Listen for any hydraulic noises or lack of grease in the pins. Make sure all safety equipment works properly; parking brake, OPC systems like the arm bar and what not all work correctly and nothing is funked up.

dozerman21
12-29-2007, 10:00 AM
I agree with Scag about making sure you're the first to start it. After it glows, it should start fairly easy and let it warm up at least 10 minutes before you run it. I would also raise the cab up and look over everything you can, it only takes a couple of minutes to raise it up and remove the engine panels. Look for any bad chaffing on the hyd. lines. I wrapped a lot mine with rubber in places that I saw had some.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it, but unless you're getting a killer deal, I'd probably look for a lower hour machine, especially if you're planning of keeping it for a while. There are quite a few out now, and I'd be more interested in a machine maybe in the 500-750 hour range or less. If it's been taken care of it should be fine, but the problem is you don't really know. CTL's and skids just don't have the same life span as other pieces of heavy equipment. Again, I guess it comes down to price and condition. Good luck!

JDSKIDSTEER
12-29-2007, 10:16 AM
I agree with Scag about making sure you're the first to start it. After it glows, it should start fairly easy and let it warm up at least 10 minutes before you run it. I would also raise the cab up and look over everything you can, it only takes a couple of minutes to raise it up and remove the engine panels. Look for any bad chaffing on the hyd. lines. I wrapped a lot mine with rubber in places that I saw had some.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it, but unless you're getting a killer deal, I'd probably look for a lower hour machine, especially if you're planning of keeping it for a while. There are quite a few out now, and I'd be more interested in a machine maybe in the 500-750 hour range or less. If it's been taken care of it should be fine, but the problem is you don't really know. CTL's and skids just don't have the same life span as other pieces of heavy equipment. Again, I guess it comes down to price and condition. Good luck!
Most around here are putting 1000 to 1200 hours a year since it has been so dry. Take a 18 mm rachet with you to pop the capopy. Hard to find one here used with less than 1200 hours. I have yet to change out sprockets rollers or idlers. We rotate sprockets when we change out tracks. I think 2000 hours or second set of tracks is when sprockets need changed here in our area.

bobcat_ron
12-29-2007, 11:57 AM
Check the loader alignment by slowly lifting the loader off the frame, listen and look for any signs of weird movements and measure the cutting edge distance from the ground as the bucket will tell you if the loader has a twist in it.
Also, move the steering handles back and forth quickly to test the reaction and slop end play in the steering mechanisims as well as the side to side play in the front idlers.

Construct'O
12-29-2007, 01:33 PM
Most around here are putting 1000 to 1200 hours a year since it has been so dry. Take a 18 mm rachet with you to pop the capopy. Hard to find one here used with less than 1200 hours. I have yet to change out sprockets rollers or idlers. We rotate sprockets when we change out tracks. I think 2000 hours or second set of tracks is when sprockets need changed here in our area.

Thanks for the tip on the sprockets,i do that to my trencher wheel drive sprockets.Only you have to watch that you don't run them to long on one side and get the points of the teeth wore back in to far before the next time run of them.

By rotate you mean switch them back and forth from left to right,so on.Last time i looked i have around 640 plus hours and things looks pretty good.I'm starting to get same cracking where the roller surface runs next to the pins in the rubber track where the sprocket drives the track.

Other then that machine is running very good.I use mine for backfilling my tile trenchs,so it is use like a dozers and on dirt,so that is a big adavantage compared to others on here.Put in over 100,000 feet of field draniage tile this fall and the CTL backfilled it all.

Rollers(since they are steel and just runon the rubber surface i think they will last a long time only thing with them would be seals and bearing going bab not the roller it's self).

Sprockets,like new,idlers still doing good,so just looking to replacing the tracks,hopefully.I don't have to beat it over the back for what i'm using it for because it keeps up with the trenching faster then i can trench.

I do think for what i'm doing i would wether have a radial arm machine,so do you think they will come out with that in the bigger skids and ctl's or have you heard?You showed the smaller ones here a while back that was radial armed.Just wondering??????

bobcat_ron
12-29-2007, 01:39 PM
Give Deere 6 months to have the CTL's in those Radius Path models, that's where they are going to see an increase in sales, VP and CTL's just don't seem to mix well anymore in my 'hood.

Fieldman12
12-29-2007, 03:05 PM
What I do is take an old pair of overalls with me.

1. Inspect motor when cold. Verify coolant is full and looks okay, belts, engine oil full and looks okay, hydraulic fluid full and looks okay, inspect chain case oil is full and looks okay. Inspect for any known leaks.

2. Visually walk around and inspect paint, scratches, and dents. Looks at all welds to verify they are not broken or cracked. Look underneath machine at pan and verify it is not damaged and bottom cover is in place. Look that all tie down locations are intact and not broken or bent. On Deere machines there is sway stops on the front of machine just inside of the boom. Inspect for wear. Some will be normal. If a bunch of wear you can bet it has done allot of digging in it's life.

3. Inspect tracks, sprockets, rollers, and idlers. ( I don't own a CTL but know what to look at).

4. Look at boom and attach plate and verify nothing broken or bent. Look to see if it has been greased recently and verify all grease Zerk are in place.

5. Inspect the bucket that is not all beat up, type of bucket and if it has a bolt on cutting edge installed that is still good or could be turned. If it has teeth look at them and inspect.
6. See if person has any paper work showing maintenance that has been done to machine.
7. Inspect rops/ cab and then get inside. Look at the seat and all the controls to verify all handles are there and not a torn seat that needs replaced. Make sure fuse cover is in place.

8. Now should be ready to start machine. Start machine and watch what type of smoke is coming out of exhaust. Look and verify all gages are operational. Listen for any odd sounds. Once warmed up cycle the bucket up and down and curl the bucket in and out. Verify no funny sounds. Lower bucket within 1" of ground on known level surface and inspect how close bucket is on each side of ground to make sure noting is bent. Check for how much boom sway and attach plate wear side to side.

9. Start driving machine back and forth and turn. Listen for any unusual sounds. Back up also and turn and listen. Make sure the hydraulics will lift machine off ground. It is nice to berry the bucket into a pile and make sure that the tracks keep trying to push or both start spinning.

10. If have cab with ac, heater, and radio verify it all works. While running I like to get out and open the motor door and just verify no visual leaks.

11. After all of this try to get the machine out to your place and use it for a few days before purchasing. The guy I bought mine from let me use it for a week. If I did not like it bring it back no questions asked. I'm picky but even after all this you could still miss something.

12. Anything that you see that is not normal wear take off the price of machine. Verify that hour meter works and that machine looks like it has that many hours. The lower the hours the better. Some touch up paint is okay but I like to stay away from a total repainted machine. Figure how much life left in tracks and machine and price accordingly. Hope this helps.

JDSKIDSTEER
12-29-2007, 04:00 PM
Thanks for the tip on the sprockets,i do that to my trencher wheel drive sprockets.Only you have to watch that you don't run them to long on one side and get the points of the teeth wore back in to far before the next time run of them.

By rotate you mean switch them back and forth from left to right,so on.Last time i looked i have around 640 plus hours and things looks pretty good.I'm starting to get same cracking where the roller surface runs next to the pins in the rubber track where the sprocket drives the track.

Other then that machine is running very good.I use mine for backfilling my tile trenchs,so it is use like a dozers and on dirt,so that is a big adavantage compared to others on here.Put in over 100,000 feet of field draniage tile this fall and the CTL backfilled it all.

Rollers(since they are steel and just runon the rubber surface i think they will last a long time only thing with them would be seals and bearing going bab not the roller it's self).

Sprockets,like new,idlers still doing good,so just looking to replacing the tracks,hopefully.I don't have to beat it over the back for what i'm using it for because it keeps up with the trenching faster then i can trench.

I do think for what i'm doing i would wether have a radial arm machine,so do you think they will come out with that in the bigger skids and ctl's or have you heard?You showed the smaller ones here a while back that was radial armed.Just wondering??????Yes switch sides on sprockets. Have not heard of any large radials, but next winter we will see some changes. Maybe radials, Surley pilots as an option. Bobcat Ron, I just had a man call me that was demoing CT322 against the Cat machine. He liked a lot of features of both machines. I am the one who told them about Cats strong points before he demo'd. The selling point he liked about the Deere was when he loaded chicken litter in the litter truck he was right against the truck with the Cat and with the Deere he felt more comfortable because it was not right up on the truck. I think vertical is here to stay because it has been a very effective selling point for loading. Nobody can load or unload pallets like the Deere vertical lift. If they would come up with a Vertical arm unit also and pilot options that would be a nice plus for me to sell those who like those designs. Next winter we may see more options.

Construct'O
12-29-2007, 04:10 PM
Check the loader alignment by slowly lifting the loader off the frame, listen and look for any signs of weird movements and measure the cutting edge distance from the ground as the bucket will tell you if the loader has a twist in it.
Also, move the steering handles back and forth quickly to test the reaction and slop end play in the steering mechanisims as well as the side to side play in the front idlers.

If you do this check you need to have a level spot prferably cement pad to measure from.Also make sure the bucket isn't twisted ,then you would get different measurment.

Good luck:usflag:

P.Services
12-29-2007, 04:26 PM
so i just got back. he had two identical machines they got from outdoor solutions out of huntsville Alabama. the first machine looked like crap all beat up inside and out, tape all over in the cab expansion foam, duct tape, caulk, glue. it was a mess. (i thought they must be using it for a harley rake, sure enough i went to there website outdoorsolutions4u.com and saw pics of them running the rakes!!!) the door was all bent up along with the back grill. they both had nice newer tracks and sprocket's.

as for the second machine it looked perfect except for one scrape in the paint. the inside was perfect, it looked brand new nothing even dirty.It even had tinted windows, hydro coupler, radio,heat and ac. the outside, arms, tracks, pins, rollers all looked great. i mean this machine looked like it had 18 hours not 1800!! well i checked the engine oil it wasn't on the stick so i ran it anyways for a little bit. then after i stop ed i shut it down and opened the radiator cap with a rag to find tons of oil in the radiator and then i checked the oil again and it had water in it!!!. i am mad i really wanted to buy this machine

so he is looking into it to see if jd will cover the repairs or his shop is going to fix it. if jd fixes it i might still buy it but im not to sure if i want it after his guys gob the rtv seal on it and bolt the head back down. or i might even buy it as is for much less and do it myself. oh well i want it but now i dont think i will get it.

bobcat_ron
12-29-2007, 04:32 PM
Yeah, you'd better run away from that deal, there might be a whole bigger can of worms once the Deere repair people get in there, alot of unseen problems.

P.Services
12-29-2007, 04:39 PM
yeah i know what ya mean, even if it is just a head gasket the question is why did it blow and what else happend. like a craked head or such. the sad part is if they flushed the rad and changed the oil i probley would have bought it and been up a creek. and i was going to take my trailer with me, good thing i didnt.

Fieldman12
12-29-2007, 04:46 PM
Deere had some engine issues in the early machines. I want to say it was a crank issue but could be wrong. I know Deere was quick to fix the issue. I'm sure JD knows the specifics. I know a buddy of mine bought a new 322 and after a few hundred hours the engine had to be replaced. He has had good luck every since. He is on his second 322. Another buddy of mine said they was on a jobsite with a T300. He said the 322 would run circles around the T300. I was not there though so could not comment on it.

cat2
12-29-2007, 05:13 PM
i wouldn't doubt that the deere could run circles around the bobcat

JDSKIDSTEER
12-29-2007, 05:14 PM
so i just got back. he had two identical machines they got from outdoor solutions out of huntsville Alabama. the first machine looked like crap all beat up inside and out, tape all over in the cab expansion foam, duct tape, caulk, glue. it was a mess. (i thought they must be using it for a harley rake, sure enough i went to there website outdoorsolutions4u.com and saw pics of them running the rakes!!!) the door was all bent up along with the back grill. they both had nice newer tracks and sprocket's.

as for the second machine it looked perfect except for one scrape in the paint. the inside was perfect, it looked brand new nothing even dirty.It even had tinted windows, hydro coupler, radio,heat and ac. the outside, arms, tracks, pins, rollers all looked great. i mean this machine looked like it had 18 hours not 1800!! well i checked the engine oil it wasn't on the stick so i ran it anyways for a little bit. then after i stop ed i shut it down and opened the radiator cap with a rag to find tons of oil in the radiator and then i checked the oil again and it had water in it!!!. i am mad i really wanted to buy this machine

so he is looking into it to see if jd will cover the repairs or his shop is going to fix it. if jd fixes it i might still buy it but im not to sure if i want it after his guys gob the rtv seal on it and bolt the head back down. or i might even buy it as is for much less and do it myself. oh well i want it but now i dont think i will get it.PM me if you want to know more about them. I will give you my cell#. I can tell you all about those units. They are the first two I sold.

ksss
12-29-2007, 06:19 PM
I would not even consider buying it. Unless they want to provide some kind of warranty which they certainly wont. It is obvious that they have been beat. I would keep looking.

cat2
12-29-2007, 07:14 PM
I would not even consider buying it. Unless they want to provide some kind of warranty which they certainly wont. It is obvious that they have been beat. I would keep looking.



i agree keep looking

P.Services
12-29-2007, 08:09 PM
this "was" the machine i planed on buying, i still want it!!!

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/detail.aspx?OHID=6168845&GUID=F9BAB0D0832C4E8AB75537F8E7A7D7E5

bobcat_ron
12-29-2007, 08:21 PM
Look at how much rust is on the quick attach, that indicates heavy use with extreme wear on the plate, they must have done some serious pushing and odd ball lifting to get that, even my old T190 didn't have rust there, and I beat the hell out of that thing.

Fieldman12
12-29-2007, 08:44 PM
That looked like the cheapest price 332 on Machinery Finder. It has been my experience that Deere's skid steer's/CTL's seem to be expensive to buy used at the dealers and at times off the private individual. Seem to be able to buy them cheap though at auctions but then again even some other brands sell cheap at auctions. I hate to say it but your getting what you pay for at that price. I know your trying to go as cheap as possible but I would at least figure $33,000.00 and up for a descent 332 machine. You may find them cheap on Iron Planet (again auction) but I dont really trust them guys to do the inspecting for me. I like to buy an owner operator machine. Most tend to take better care of the machine than just some clown that needs a job and wants to see what kind of stunts he can do.

cat2
12-29-2007, 09:53 PM
yeah i would stay away from that. i will only buy new when it comes to skid steers. and ctl's. people beat the sh!t out of them

kreft
12-29-2007, 11:17 PM
Nothing runs like a deere with a CAT 297C on its A$$.......HEHE

kreft
12-29-2007, 11:19 PM
Saw the machine, looks like its in good shape for being 1800 Hrs used.

P.Services
12-29-2007, 11:19 PM
i would like to buy new when they come out with piolt controls but i am young and cant afford to spent 55k-60k on one machine.

P.Services
12-29-2007, 11:21 PM
i would like to run a 297, 320, and 332 all side by side that would be nice. just wait till deere brings out a ct342!!!

kreft
12-29-2007, 11:24 PM
Will they make a CT342?

kreft
12-29-2007, 11:25 PM
If so what are the specs for it

P.Services
12-29-2007, 11:27 PM
i have no idea but i dont think so. i was just saying what if.....

kreft
12-29-2007, 11:29 PM
O....... Hey how 'bout that patriots game? LOL

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 03:39 AM
PM me if you want to know more about them. I will give you my cell#. I can tell you all about those units. They are the first two I sold.

First thing to do if your really serious is talk to JDSKIDSTEER>Sounds like he can givre you the scoop on the machine.maybe not all ,but some of it's history.

Second i'm with KSSS if they would fix and give you a good warrenty,then maybe? How good do you know this dealer and how far is he from you?

They probably went to the auction and bought them dirt cheap,to resale.Couple things i noticed was the top was painted yellow where mine is all black,might have done that because to reduce heat in the summer heat.Ac might not work or not the best???

Also the weight bracket with a full set of weights.So they was doing some heavy lifting,by the looks of things.The rust on the coupler plate would be pretty normal with 1800 hrs i would think.I did like the track design they put back on it.Anyone know wh makes them.Check that out if you go back would you?????

I would say that you did your job in checking things out that the guys on here pointed out.Maybe talk to them again at the dealer and ask for more information.If you do buy and they fix it and give your a warrenty.Get everything in writing.

Just might be better to keep looking,like dozerman said,lower hour machine even if you have to give more.I really like buyer more often from individual,then dealers.

If this was someones personal machine i think you would see a better machine,or i would hope soo.Big company machine just aren't going to see the care as small single owner machine.

I did also notice it had the hydraulic quick coupler for attachment.Too bad it has to have the engine problem.How it happened is had to say.Might have broke a belt and it got to hot.I'm think that it should have shut down if it get to hot ,or looses oil pressure .

Just don't make a snap decision that is the main thing.Might talk to some mechanic friends and take them to check things out more.I'm thinking i would wether the dealer fix it,tell them you want it done right even if you had to give more for it.If you do it then anything major it's your baby .If dealer does it i would think they would want to pertect there reputation.Good luck what every you decide!:usflag:

Fieldman12
12-30-2007, 12:08 PM
Give Deere 6 months to have the CTL's in those Radius Path models, that's where they are going to see an increase in sales, VP and CTL's just don't seem to mix well anymore in my 'hood.

You know around here it is the opposite for all brands. I would say the majority machines sold in all brands in my surrounding area in the past seven years are now Vertical Path machines. I occasionally see a newer radial but when I see it and it's so rare anymore it is kind of like a car without ac. The vertical path machines are just taking over. Granted for the type of work I do allot of (grading) I would be better off with a radial lift machine. So far though I have not had any issues because I have the vertical lift machine. I was just at JD equipment yesterday inside looking over the 313 and 315 machines. At first I was a little skeptical but I will be honest the more and more I'm around those machines the better I like them. They do seem to be built pretty tough. One key feature I really love that I hope they adapt in the next generation of vertical lift machines is that step plate that is built into the boom. It feels very natural to get into and out of the machine now. My old one you really had to be careful getting in and out. I still think radial lift will be around for some time. I would may switch to a radial as long as I could load a big dump truck. From what I hear most will these days but maybe not as close to center of dump truck as I would like. The radial versus vertical issue kinda reminds me of the conventional combine versus rotary combine. Both have allot of nice features and in the long run for todays standards the rotary is better but for people baling wheat you just cannot beat a conventional combine. They tried to kill the conventional before but they made a strong comeback.:usflag:

cat2
12-30-2007, 12:23 PM
so you like the 313 and the 315. i've never seen one in person. i wish they had a little bit bigger radius lift machine. i think i would buy it. i like the 317 though. time will tell i guess

Fieldman12
12-30-2007, 12:25 PM
Yes, so far from what I see I like. I too wish they had bigger sizes. Anyone heard any info on how well these are doing out on the jobsites working? Im sure JD knows how they are working.

kreft
12-30-2007, 12:53 PM
I never really saw a DEERE wheeled machine on a jobsite, jost mostly on farms, I seen a couple track machines on jobsites though

P.Services
12-30-2007, 01:19 PM
.I did like the track design they put back on it.Anyone know wh makes them.Check that out if you go back would you?????


jdskidsteer was the one who ordered them so he would know, i believe solid deal was the name??

thanks a lot for all the help i really appreciate it

kreft
12-30-2007, 01:21 PM
So are you going to buy new or used?

P.Services
12-30-2007, 02:42 PM
i cant afford to buy new, i got cleared for a loan with john deere credit but i don't want a $1000 a month payment for one machine. i would rather buy the skid used because i am also in the market for a f550/450 and I'm going to trade my scags in for two new ones. i am also trying to con my dad into buying a 50zts and then i will rent it from him by the hour. as i rent it that money will go towards buying it from him. so you get the idea i have a lot of things i want by spring.

kreft
12-30-2007, 02:44 PM
Whats a 50zts? A 50 inch zero-turn?

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 02:47 PM
A 10,000 lbs or 5 ton class mini zero tail swing excavator, stay away from Deere'tachi if you want a big cab.

P.Services
12-30-2007, 02:49 PM
this: (its actully a D and not a zts but you get ther idea)

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/detail.aspx?OHID=6118982&GUID=0304cc32dea34185a1b0b76bfc4db05b

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 02:50 PM
Damn good, long lasting mini's but the cabs are just to small for a big person like me.

kreft
12-30-2007, 02:53 PM
I just learned something today.:)

P.Services
12-30-2007, 02:53 PM
A 10,000 lbs or 5 ton class mini zero tail swing excavator, stay away from Deere'tachi if you want a big cab.

while on the subject of cabs i thought the ct332 cab was kinda small. for me it was ok but im young and limber so i could duck down under the door and do a little two step to fail into it. now i can just see my 6'2'' 300lb dad cussing up a storm when he trys to get in and out. maybe he just wont get to use it:laugh:

i didnt think the deere mini cab was that bad but i only have used a bobcat 430 in the past so i dont have much to compare it to.

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 02:54 PM
Damn good, long lasting mini's but the cabs are just to small for a big person like me.

You might have to try downsizing for the small machine cabs!:):usflag:

kreft
12-30-2007, 02:56 PM
That will be a nice setup, your topkick ct332 and the 50D, what trailer would you use to pull it with?

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 02:58 PM
You might have to try downsizing for the small machine cabs!:):usflag:


Huh? They (Deere'tachi) use the same cab on all their minis (except the 17zts) from the 27 up to the 50.

P.Services
12-30-2007, 03:02 PM
i am going to have to move them one at a time for now on my 14k gvw trailer. the one that the fecon is on in my pictures. the mini is still up in the air but im trying to get him to buy one because the both of us could really use it.

i thought about buying a 10 ton trailer to pull with the kodiak for one machine to ride on and then use the f550 (coming soon) to pull the bobcat trailer and the other machine.

the ideal setup would be a f750 roll off with a 15ton trailer and haul both machines at one time. one on the trailer and one in the truck. but it will be a few more years before that happens.

kreft
12-30-2007, 03:05 PM
Now the F-750, that would be an AWESOME setup!

P.Services
12-30-2007, 03:07 PM
Now the F-750, that would be an AWESOME setup!

i agree, one sold not to far from me in the spring for $22k. it had low miles and came with two bins. oh well deals come and go you just have to be ready for them.

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 07:09 PM
Huh? They (Deere'tachi) use the same cab on all their minis (except the 17zts) from the 27 up to the 50.

Ron ! I can't believe i got you on that one:cool2:
Big guy !I meet your body might need downsized,not the mini's,silly!!!!!!:usflag:

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 07:35 PM
Ah screw diets, it's easier to loose money than body mass.

kreft
12-30-2007, 07:45 PM
Lol....................

JDSKIDSTEER
12-30-2007, 09:21 PM
jdskidsteer was the one who ordered them so he would know, i believe solid deal was the name??

thanks a lot for all the help i really appreciate it
They are solid deal. I sell them for $3,500.00 a set installed. I like them better than the Bridgstone origionals because they ride smoother and do not vibrate the unit as bad. Also they do not seem to wear as bad wear the rollers run on the rubber. You get ready for a set let me know. I can make you a good deal and they will drop ship them to you. I get special pricing because they do not stock them local I order several sets and stock them myself. I sell them for Bobcats and Taks also.

kreft
12-30-2007, 09:35 PM
Do you work for JD, if so are they coming out with any new track models?

JDSKIDSTEER
12-30-2007, 09:51 PM
Do you work for JD, if so are they coming out with any new track models?Check your PM.

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 10:12 PM
They are solid deal. I sell them for $3,500.00 a set installed. I like them better than the Bridgstone origionals because they ride smoother and do not vibrate the unit as bad. Also they do not seem to wear as bad wear the rollers run on the rubber. You get ready for a set let me know. I can make you a good deal and they will drop ship them to you. I get special pricing because they do not stock them local I order several sets and stock them myself. I sell them for Bobcats and Taks also.

I was out playing in the snow today and the brigdestone suck for snow >> ice removal.

We have about 3 inches of ice under the snow and it is scary when you get the snow off,solid ice cover.Talk about going for a ride.

Definitely not for snow removal.Took a ride down across a 5ft. drop slope.Finally dropped the blade came to a sliding stop.It was my field ,drive so not a big deal,but you have to be careful.

Of course it was just right ,slight melting going on with the sun shining,out of the wind.Different story for the next two day.Colder then crap,30 mph winds.

I'll try to keep you in mind when i do the track thing,but for now things are looking pretty good.Soliddeal you say.Tread design is kind of like the ASV and CAT .Do you know who makes their out of the factory tracks??????

Do the guys down there like the the soliddeal better then brigdestone for dirt and mud????:usflag:

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 10:16 PM
I was out playing in the snow today and the brigdestone suck for snow >> ice removal.

We have about 3 inches of ice under the snow and it is scary when you get the snow off,solid ice cover.Talk about going for a ride.

Definitely not for snow removal.Took a ride down across a 5ft. drop slope.Finally dropped the blade came to a sliding stop.It was my field ,drive so not a big deal,but you have to be careful.

Ha-ha-ha, that's where Cat/ASV will run right past the others, softer rubber means superior traction on the ice!!!!

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=JjYT8lQN6YU

JDSKIDSTEER
12-30-2007, 10:21 PM
I was out playing in the snow today and the brigdestone suck for snow >> ice removal.

We have about 3 inches of ice under the snow and it is scary when you get the snow off,solid ice cover.Talk about going for a ride.

Definitely not for snow removal.Took a ride down across a 5ft. drop slope.Finally dropped the blade came to a sliding stop.It was my field ,drive so not a big deal,but you have to be careful.

Of course it was just right ,slight melting going on with the sun shining,out of the wind.Different story for the next two day.Colder then crap,30 mph winds.

I'll try to keep you in mind when i do the track thing,but for now things are looking pretty good.Soliddeal you say.Tread design is kind of like the ASV and CAT .Do you know who makes their out of the factory tracks??????





Do the guys down there like the the soliddeal better then brigdestone for dirt and mud????:usflag:I have had no complaints. I do not know who makes the tracks for Cat / ASV. I do know that their undercarraige was designed for snow and ice.

ASV's Company History
1983 ASV is founded by Gary Lemke and Edgar Hetteen in Marcell, Minnesota. Lemke was one of the top snowmobile dealers in the United States and Hetteen had founded Polaris Industries and Arctic Enterprises, the leading snowmobile manufacturers in the country.

1983 ASV engineers and manufacturers the Track Truck™, a year-round all-terrain transport used by utility companies and ski resorts.

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 10:23 PM
this "was" the machine i planed on buying, i still want it!!!

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/detail.aspx?OHID=6168845&GUID=F9BAB0D0832C4E8AB75537F8E7A7D7E5

If your wanting this machine for mulcher or cutter,its not a high flow machine.

Mine is high flow and it has the eletric attachment quick coupler instead of a hydraulic one like this on.:usflag:

bobcat_ron
12-30-2007, 10:34 PM
I have had no complaints. I do not know who makes the tracks for Cat / ASV. I do know that their undercarraige was designed for snow and ice.

ASV's Company History
1983 ASV is founded by Gary Lemke and Edgar Hetteen in Marcell, Minnesota. Lemke was one of the top snowmobile dealers in the United States and Hetteen had founded Polaris Industries and Arctic Enterprises, the leading snowmobile manufacturers in the country.

1983 ASV engineers and manufacturers the Track Truck™, a year-round all-terrain transport used by utility companies and ski resorts.



ASV makes their tracks in-house from what I've learned, it's the rollers and idlers that are made outside by Camoplast. ASV also makes the tracks for the VTS from Loegering and the Mattracks company.

ksss
12-30-2007, 11:04 PM
The VTS tracks are more similiar to conventional tracks and not the ASV/CAT tracks.

Construct'O
12-30-2007, 11:09 PM
:usflag:ASV makes their tracks in-house from what I've learned, it's the rollers and idlers that are made outside by Camoplast. ASV also makes the tracks for the VTS from Loegering and the Mattracks company.

Thats interesting,if your information is correct for the VTS systems! since it is a sprocket drive setup ,right.And the ASV and CAT being the paddle setup.

By the way with 2 to 3" of solid ice i would guess you'd be slipping and sliding!!!!!!!! dozer with steel tracks would also be doing the same thing.:dancing::usflag:

Ridin' Around
12-30-2007, 11:14 PM
Asv does do their own tracks, correct. and Cat buys the complete undercarriage. Cat has an interest, in the 25% range I believe, of ownership in ASV. The ASV creator is better known for his previous company and their snow tracks(Arctic Cat, maybe you've heard of them). he knows how to make traction in the snow! The company is in Minnesota after all! The rubber undercarriage and it's ability to move with unlevel surfaces is the Key. I've been to the ASV factory, I'm sold.

Ridin' Around
12-30-2007, 11:15 PM
Loegering is an ASV owned company that is correct also.

P.Services
12-31-2007, 01:29 AM
If your wanting this machine for mulcher or cutter,its not a high flow machine.

Mine is high flow and it has the eletric attachment quick coupler instead of a hydraulic one like this on.:usflag:

yes i saw that, im not to worried about that i just don't think a skid has enough power to run a cutter head efficiently. after running a fecon ftx90 and being very disappointed i just cant see a skid doing any better. i will get a normal brush hog for it and what it cant handle will get put though a chipper. if i get some more hug jobs i will use a ftx130 or larger. i know i will get a lot of protest to this statment from guys that say there skid is a beast and its fast as heck, but run a 130 and then see.

P.Services
12-31-2007, 01:31 AM
Loegering is an ASV owned company that is correct also.

woodhams equipment in wayland michigan has a used set of vts tracks in very good shape if any one is in the market. i think they came off a 90xt.

JDSKIDSTEER
12-31-2007, 03:58 PM
Picasso, Get the serial number of the unit that you are looking at. Call me Wednesday and I will call the factory and see how much it would cost to extend it another year. At the price you can buy the machine for I doubt you will get them to pay for it.