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Green Boys LawnCare
01-01-2008, 05:03 PM
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how you change the hydraulic fluid on your zero turn, and how often you think it needs to be done? I am not sure how to get all of the fluid to drain. Also, I'm wondering if you need to bleed the air out once you re-fill, like you do for brakes. Thanks you.

Restrorob
01-01-2008, 06:45 PM
Brand AND model/serial numbers off your unit would help, As with any hydro system it must be bled after a fluid/filter change.

Green Boys LawnCare
01-01-2008, 06:50 PM
Brand AND model/serial numbers off your unit would help, As with any hydro system it must be bled after a fluid/filter change.

It's a Ferris 1500Z. 25hp, 52" deck. Thanks for the help.

PerfectEarth
01-01-2008, 06:52 PM
Do you have the manual?

Green Boys LawnCare
01-01-2008, 06:54 PM
Do you have the manual?

Yeah, the manual doesn't tell you how to do it. They probably want you to take it to the dealer.

HenryB
01-01-2008, 07:04 PM
Brand AND model/serial numbers off your unit would help, As with any hydro system it must be bled after a fluid/filter change.

How do you bleed the system?

Restrorob
01-01-2008, 07:26 PM
I'm unfamiliar with Farris but if the filter(s) screw to the bottom of the hydro tank it will drain once the filter is removed. If they aren't there should be a drain plug on the bottom of the tank.

Always fill the new filter(s) with oil before installing, Once the system is re-filled raise and block the drive wheels off the ground. Start the engine and run about 3/4 throttle, Move the controls full forward then full reverse slowly 8 to 10 times then re-check fluid level.

Set the unit on the ground and test run. I use this method on all brand units with no problems.

bigmower1
01-03-2008, 09:35 PM
What I have always done is put a drain pan under the pump filter and unscrew the filter and allow some of the oil to drain until is stops. You dont have to actually change all the oil because it doesnt really go bad, its the filter that needs to be changed and it should be done at least once a year. Pour some new mobil 15w50 synthentic oil or whatever it calls for into the filter to make sure most of the air is out of it, but it isnt necessary. Once you change the filter start the engine and run the mower forward for a while and backwards for a while slowly. You will probably hear a screeching noise or have low power in the drive for a few minutes, then it will clear but remember to run the mower very slowly. Once the noise and the drives feel normal, check the resivor and fill it a little. Run the mower for around ten minutes or so and check the oil again and fill it, but dont over fill it because when the oil gets hot it will over flow and make a mess.

Restrorob
01-03-2008, 10:47 PM
You will probably hear a screeching noise or have low power in the drive for a few minutes,

Do you know what is causing this screeching noise and what is happening to the inside of your pump when this goes on ?

ALWAYS raise the drive wheels off the ground to purge air out of the pumps/system first before putting the pumps under load.

Jay Ray
01-03-2008, 11:52 PM
Restrorob, how important is is to have the machine clean?

tomo
01-04-2008, 05:17 AM
hello , NEVER EVER RUN THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM WHEN FIRST REFILLED UNDER ANY LOAD [always have drive wheels of ground ] [w/shop stands etc ]

Although in the real world hydraulic oil should not see above 170 f in mowers it is a different situation . Most have very little oil capacity and a poor excuse 4 a cooler .A small capacity system recirculates oil quickly[heats up fast but wears oil out very fast eg well used and easily reaches its capacity for dirt etc . Another poor example is how kohler motors typically have only a 2 quart sump :hammerhead: CHANGE OIL in hydraulics either every year or every 2nd year . Oil is cheap compared to repairs .

tomo:waving:

merry xmas and a happy new year to all

Restrorob
01-04-2008, 07:44 AM
how important is is to have the machine clean?


Very, And a over sight in my part....:hammerhead:

A job such as this shouldn't be performed in one's dirt back yard. You want to clean the unit around fill cap/filter(s) and any drain plug before starting to service, The same applies when doing any repair that requires the system to be opened up.

A can of engine de-greaser and water hose is better than nothing or take the unit by the local coin operated car wash.


Happy New Year Tomo !

bigmower1
01-04-2008, 09:26 AM
The noise is air in the system and I said to run it very slowly until the noise stops and the power feels normal then to fill it again. It isnt necessary to put the wheels up and do it that way. You change the filter, check the oil in the resivor, ride the mower back and fourth very slowly to perge the air out of the system which usually takes maybe five or so minutes, and once the noise stops and the power is normal again, to check the oil again and to fill it if necessary, but not too high, and after about an hour of use and the oil is hot, check the oil again and see if it needs a little topping off and that is it. I know about the air in the system and it is easliy perged and i have never hurt a mower doing this way because it is the right way to do it. My pumps usually last 3000 hours or more before i have to rebuild them. Putting the wheels up in the air or driving it very slowly doesnt really matter.

Restrorob
01-04-2008, 08:35 PM
because it is the right way to do it. Putting the wheels up in the air or driving it very slowly doesnt really matter.


For those of you who want to perform maintenance on your hydro system PROPERLY without causing ANY premature wear/damage to your pumps/system, Below is the PROPER procedure from one of the leading manufacturers of hydraulic drive components in the lawn & garden industry.




http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Hydro%20Gear/HydroGearPurgeProcedure.jpg

bigmower1
01-04-2008, 09:13 PM
Changing the oil filter does not put that much air into the system. You arent drainning the pumps or the wheel motors , just changing the filter. What I do is take off the old filter make sure that the oil filter holder is clean and put oil in the new one and then screw it on. Run the engine for a few minutes then drive it slowly back and fourth. There is usually very little air to be perged and it only takes minutes to do it. I have been doin it this way for as long as i have fixed these machienes and never ever had any problem whatsoever doing it this way. The little bit of air in the system will not hurt anything and it will purge in only a few minutes or less. If you change all the oil, then yes you should do it the other way, but i was talking about doing it by just changing the filter. why do people make simple things so complicated sometimes.

Jay Ray
01-04-2008, 09:53 PM
Seems like I've seen Restrorob give good advice to a thousand guys, and then it works and they thank him. He almost always has a schematic or a page or two from a manual that he will pull out of the computer on his lunch hour. He has given me very good advice more than once. I consider him the premier authority on this forum and a seasoned expert in small engine and mower mechanics. When 250 hours comes up on mine, I'm jacking the unit up.

bigmower1
01-04-2008, 10:08 PM
You can jack the mower up if you want to, but it isnt necessary when you just change the oil filter. Im trying to explain simple ways to do things for the average business owner to make it easier on things and I would never give out bad advice if i wouldnt do it myself, and you dont have to change your oil or filter every 250 hours if that is what you meant. Once a year is good enough. Its not necessary to complicate things for yourself, this is a simple procedure. But yes if you decide to change all the oil in the system or had to change a pump or motor or line then I would definetely do it the other way stated above, because then you have much more air in the system to be perged. I never said the other guy gave bad advice. Its fine to follow by the book , but over the many years of fixing these things, I have found different techniques in doing things.

Roger
01-04-2008, 11:43 PM
Seems like I've seen Restrorob give good advice to a thousand guys, and then it works and they thank him. He almost always has a schematic or a page or two from a manual that he will pull out of the computer on his lunch hour. He has given me very good advice more than once. I consider him the premier authority on this forum and a seasoned expert in small engine and mower mechanics. When 250 hours comes up on mine, I'm jacking the unit up.

Ditto!!! Thanks to Restrorob for all the advice provided in this section. His advice does not come as a result of experiences of an "average user," rather from day-to-day experience and manufacturers' manuals.

I have followed the procedures close to what is given in the manual on my Exmark hydro. This off-season will be the tenth time I have changed filter and hydro fluid in the machine (scheduled to do the job tomorrow). It has at least 6,500 service hours, and I have never had a pump or wheel motor problem.

Restrorob
01-05-2008, 02:19 AM
I have found different techniques in doing things.

That's fine that you have found ways to cut some corners and save you time and money, If it works and has been working for you that's good.

The above procedure states to purge as out-lined anytime the system is opened, This also includes just a filter change.

It's not good to contradict OEM's proper repair procedures, They are out-lined for repair stations and purchasers to get the maximum life from their products.

As for the screech you hear after changing your filter, It is air in the system causing it but air is not making the noise. Just for giggles, Next time you change your filter follow the above purging procedure and see if the screeching subsides.

The units I'm familiar with state to change fluid and filter(s) @ 500 hrs, But if one wants to spend the few bux and change it before that time it would be better for the system before doing any harm.

Working in the same shop for going on 17yrs., If I don't follow proper repair procedures and a unit comes back with a problem as a result of my repair I have to repair their unit out of pocket and that hasn't/isn't happening.

Also, The last thing I want to happen is log in here and read a thread where I gave a improper repair procedure that cost a member more down time/money to repair properly.

I guess what I'm trying to get across here is;

What may work for one may not work for another but one can't go wrong by using proper repair procedures.

==============================

Thanks Jay and Roger for the kind words, Glad to be of help....

bigmower1
01-05-2008, 03:24 AM
Some times that might be true, but every once in a while they find mistakes in their procedures and change them or update them. Mostly torque specifications or something else. Either way I have been fixing these kinds of equipment for at least 20 or more years and never had any problems doing it. Ive done this stuff so long that it is almost second nature to me and i have pleanty of experience. I have an exmark z rider that is at leat 5 years old or older and has 4721 hours on it and never had any hydro problems doing it the way I said. Its that simple and a fact. Make things easier for yourselves because a lot more can go wrong with these machienes and doing it the way i mentioned is in no way wrong.

Green Boys LawnCare
01-06-2008, 09:57 AM
First, Thanks for all of your help. I still have a couple of questions:
1.) How do you drain all of the hydraulic fluid, or do you just remove the filter, and let drain out what will. The Hydro motors, the final drives, and the hoses that go to the final drives, are all below my filter.
2.) Am I correct in understanding that you just let the air work it's way out through the reservoir as you operate the levers back and forth.
I appreciate your help.

Restrorob
01-06-2008, 11:49 AM
1.) How do you drain all of the hydraulic fluid, or do you just remove the filter, and let drain out what will.

OK, Not being familiar with the Farris line I just downloaded the parts breakdown for your unit.

Removing the filter will drain all the oil from the tank, Fill the new filter with oil and install then re-fill the tank. It is not necessary to flush the pumps/wheel motors and lines unless you have a major failure that contaminated the system with metal shavings.


2.) Am I correct in understanding that you just let the air work it's way out through the reservoir as you operate the levers back and forth.


That's correct.....

grass_cuttin_fool
01-06-2008, 12:13 PM
I have a scag and thats what I basically do, remove the filter and drain, replace the filter and add fluid, put the floor jack under the back end and raise off the floor, crank and move the levers slowly forward and reverse several times for a few minutes.

On my unit it calls for a service at 500 hours but I change it once a year in the off season (350 hours +/-)


wayne