View Full Version : Replace CV boot or entire CV?
01-07-2008, 12:34 PM
I've got a 92 K2500 (4x4) with a passenger side CV boot that is cracked pretty good in one of its crevices. It isn't broken yet, but I figure it might be by the end of the year.
Would it make sense to just replace the boot or should I go to Autozone and get the entire $65 unit? Then everything is new.
Or should I just leave it and let if fail when it fails? At $65 I guess I wouldnt mind replacing the whole thing.
The truck is up in the air for new brakes now, so if the CV has to come out, now is the time.
01-07-2008, 03:00 PM
I'd atleast clean, check and repack it while replacing the boot. For $65, it really is worthwhile just replacing it while you've got it apart for the boot.
01-07-2008, 03:12 PM
I'd spring for the whole assembly for $65. It'll save you time in the end.
01-07-2008, 11:12 PM
If the boot is cracked, you've already got dirt inside and the joint is ruined even though it may not know if yet. IIRC you have to pull the shaft to replace the boot, so you may as well do the joint why you have it apart.
01-08-2008, 11:16 AM
For that price I'd play it safe, all it takes is a tiny amount of damage from dirt and before long you'll just have to replace the whole thing so it's all about the same anyhow.
Because to fit a new boot in and of itself isn't as easy as it sounds, you have to pack grease in there and then keep all that grease in place while you squeeze the new boot on, don't forget the clamps and don't get no dirt in there now that's usually quite the PITA part of the cv axle job, the axle itself isn't so bad. Oh yeah, the grease is special, you'll run yourself 20-30 dollars in parts between boot, clamps, and grease too, maybe 40-50 I don't know, maybe not but...
So I would say easier to replace the whole thing, be done with it.
Plan an afternoon, it's not that bad thou, usually...
You might need some special tools, before you dig into it I would check and see, but if you have another car available then you can always tear into it knowing you'll likely have to run to the parts store mid-repair, way I do it. In some cases the bolts that hold the cv joint require either hex or torx tools to remove, some are standard 6-side wrenchable bolts, strange why they do this garbage but that's just how it is.
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