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View Full Version : Pins and bushings Part II


Fieldman12
01-13-2008, 09:58 PM
Okay, I have the bushings and seals back in the top cylinders. I have both caps removed at the bottom where the quick attach pivots and also both bolts and nuts removed. Okay, how does the bushing come out. Looks like it just drives out from the outside of the boom inwards. Was hoping someone may know. Did not want to beat on it much until Im sure.

ksss
01-14-2008, 01:03 AM
Fieldman was the machine not greased before you got it? I thought it was a low houred machine. It seems unusual to have to rebush this soon.

Fieldman12
01-14-2008, 06:14 PM
It has about 2100-2200 hours on it. Not sure how long they are lasting on the Case machines but the Deeres and Bobcat's I see allot of the times getting slop in the Quick attach part. Mine seems to have more side to side play in the quick attach than anything. The rest of the boom system is fine. I see they have addressed this issue on the newer 300 series but even on machines with about half the hours mine has I still see some side to side quick attach slop.

Fieldman12
01-14-2008, 06:18 PM
How many hours you been getting ksss?

ksss
01-14-2008, 07:09 PM
If the slop is side to side I shim that. I have never replaced bushings in any of my machines, but I don't usually keep them that long (the longest I have kept a machine was to 2500 hours). If your getting side to side slop the new bushing are not likely to help that. The new bushing will cure vertical slop but not side to side to my knowledge unless Deere oversizes the new bushings in length.

Fieldman12
01-14-2008, 09:49 PM
Yeah, the only reason I am replacing the bushings is (since) I have it apart. I am going to use washers to remove the side to side slop. I dont know about you but a machine to me just has to be tight. I like doing fine grading and it makes the job so much easier when you have the least amount of slope as possible. Of course I have a Vertical lift machine so I am going to have some slope even if the machine is brand new. I want to give a special thanks to Jdskidsteer. I sent him an email asking how to get the bushing out of the boom. He said to tilt the attach plate forward and hit the boom and they should come out. The bushing that goes in there is tapered. Those booms are tuff. Cannot even tell I hit them. I also talked to a guy at Nortrax that told me the same thing to do. So now I have the machine all apart and ready to put back together. Just ordered the bushings for the boom today. It is snowing here. I have had the space heater on in the barn blowing toward the skid steer to warm things up a bit before starting work. Just last week when I started this job it was 70 degrees out.

Fieldman12
01-14-2008, 09:52 PM
Just to let you know the cylinder bushings had the same as no wear but the pins where worn there pretty good. As for down at the boom. The bushings that goes through there had some wear but not very much. The bushings in the attach plate I could not tell had any wear. I did not get the mic's out to tell exactly how much.

ksss
01-14-2008, 10:00 PM
I am with you. I don't like any slap anywhere. That is why I grease the hell out of them and shim when the slap starts.

Fieldman12
01-14-2008, 10:06 PM
How do you shim yours? I assume you take the plate off? Im sure there is probably an easier way but I figure now it should be good for at least another 2000 hours. I grease mine every time I use it so I know it will have better care with me.

ksss
01-14-2008, 10:18 PM
I am not sure how your coupler is put together. I pull each pin and shim it individually with spacers I get from the dealer. Big washers really but they come in different thicknesses. I don't need to pull the entire coupler.

Fieldman12
01-15-2008, 09:39 PM
Ksss, I picked up some washers today at the local Case IH dealer since TSC did not have any big enough in diameter. Now what he gave me is just a basic washer but he said they are hardened. Now I know most washers have some type of hardness too them but it got me wondering if I would be better of with a hardened washer or something that would wear. I dont think they are super hard because I was able to scratch them with a file and a grinder a little. They was not cheap at $6.00 a piece. I just don't want to use something that is going to cause me another problem. As for you pulling the pins on the Case machines. I wish the Deere's where that easy. I got the bushings and seals in the attach plate today. Hopefully pickup the boom bushings tomorrow at Deere and maybe start working on putting it back together Thursday if I decide to use these washers.

Fieldman12
01-15-2008, 09:40 PM
The shims you got are they pretty hard and are they designed to be shims for the Case skids or are they just somethig of the shelf?

ksss
01-16-2008, 12:42 PM
They are designed to be shims and can be used on I guess anything. They are not specific to the skid steers as they are the same for the excavators. I did not think they were that expensive. The nice thing about them is the different thicknesses on them. You can shim as you need to with the correct thickness of shim. Reference the hardness. I don't know what the correct answer for that is. I just go with whatever the hardness of the shim is. I doubt it is that big of deal since the areas that your shimming are real heavy duty. Whether the shim wears or you get a little wear around the shim it would take a long time before it became issue. I need to look a Deere coupler and see what your dealing with. I cant picture it.

Fieldman12
01-16-2008, 06:58 PM
Wish I had my cam and I would take some pictures. It's not really that bad of a job once you figure out how it is all put together. I should have downloaded a technical manual. Anyway it is not that easy to put the shims in on a Deere. I also agree that the shim hardness is probably not all that important. I might end up getting some washers from Fastenal. A guy I talked too at Nortrax said they order the spacers from someone besides Deere. I forget the name of the place. I may call him back and get the name.