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EMJ
01-14-2008, 09:43 PM
I have a scag Turf Tiger, I am replacing the wheel motors. Only problem is that, I can not get the wheel hubs off. At least the one side I have not been able to get it to budge. Any Ideas? I was using a three jaw puller with a little heat.

Ridin' Around
01-14-2008, 11:13 PM
do you have good studs? the tool used is a, I believe, a flat plate with a wheel stud pattern in it that uses the wheel studs to apply pressure to the axle making the hub "pop" off. if your studs are gone or damaged you may have to get very creative! Your dealer might let you borrow the tool if they have one. We used the dealers last winter only took a couple of hours pickup to return.

sawman65
01-15-2008, 02:59 PM
i use the three jaw puller a LOT of heat and a BIG hammer dont hit the hub wack the puller bolt and it should pop off. be carefull i have seen them "pop" all the way accross the shop lol

Grasman
01-18-2008, 11:36 PM
On one of my Exmarks I had to use a hydralic 3 jaw puller and a sledge hammer and it did go across the shop.

MowerMedic77
01-19-2008, 01:11 AM
i use the three jaw puller a LOT of heat and a BIG hammer dont hit the hub wack the puller bolt and it should pop off. be carefull i have seen them "pop" all the way accross the shop lol

I would not do this, your replacing your wheel motors but if you were not it can melt the seal on the wheel motor and the three jaw puller can warp the hub from some manufactures. I would only use a hub puller, cheap and no need for heat. But to each his own:drinkup:

http://www.shop.com/HUB_PULLER_-1712...49961-p!.shtml

sawman65
01-20-2008, 08:44 PM
i never would have told him to do it this way if he was not gona replace the wheel motors lol. by the way where ya from in south fl? i used to live in miami till andrew came to town that was enough for me.

MowerMedic77
01-20-2008, 09:56 PM
No prob, just not a fan of 3 jaw pullers on the hubs after having to eat one for a customers repair years ago. Been pretty quiet here since Andrew what was that like 14 years ago, had one blow though my area 2 years ago no power for a couple weeks but no damage to my property. I live in Fort Liquordale:drinkup: lol

sawman65
01-21-2008, 12:05 PM
man i use to love going to the "strip" back in the 80's i hear its all hotels now all the way down a1a real sad.
and yes i had to put a seal kit in one that one of my guys did this way.it was a parker ross so no damage to the shaft but the seals were cooked. only trouble is to get all the seals you got to get the bearing kit also. cost like 100.00 usd. now if you was to do this to one of those cheap hydro gear wheel motors it may be toast when you are done.
i used to work at joe blairs over in north miami was there for like 8 years till i packed up and moved to the mountians.

bigmower1
01-23-2008, 07:59 PM
Take the wheel off. Loosen the spindle bolt and unthread it a little. Do not remove the bolt yet. Use an air chisel with the point. Put the chisel on medium or higher if necessary and get a pry bar and pry against the spindel hub while your hitting the wheel motor shaft with the air chisel. There shopuld be a hole or impression in the wheel motor shaft (the part that the nut threads onto to) that you can put the point of the chisel in to keep the chisel from riding. That's how I do it and it always has worked for me. Try it, let me know how you did.

Jeffandtamara
09-15-2013, 08:50 PM
When I first noticed a peculiar movement of the wheel being loose, it was too late. From the pictures you can see the wheel lug holes are really wollered (if that is a word) out and the Wheel Hub Assembly is toast as well. The Studs were completely loose in the Hub and will require replacing the hub.
So, The question I have, (that has been replied to in this thread a few years ago), is how do I get the Wheel hub off? From the second photo, you can see I have a 3 prong gear puller installed trying to break it loose. I have sprayed with penetrating fluid and have applied pressure with the gear puller and whacked with a hammer numerous times. No joy.... My thought is to let it set with pressure applied and penetrating fluid working and repeat several times...Does this have a chance of working??, or do I have to get the torch out?? Don't want to do that with the hydraulic motor so close, can't be good....

Is there any repair to the wheel rim that can be done. I think this might be the expensive part to replace...I think I read, you have to replace the tire and wheel as an assembly... Can anyone confirm that.
As soon

herler
09-15-2013, 11:38 PM
1:50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHV7VEl1I_o

Breezmister
09-16-2013, 07:38 PM
From the second photo, you can see I have a 3 prong gear puller installed trying to break it loose. I have sprayed with penetrating fluid and have applied pressure with the gear puller and whacked with a hammer numerous times. No joy.... My thought is to let it set with pressure applied and penetrating fluid working and repeat several times...Does this have a chance of working??,

I had the same problem back in May. Yes, it will come off. Unlike the video, I was hitting it from behind, just a tap. I would spray it and turn the screw on the puller and tap it, go do something else. Come back to it when I was done what ever and repeat. Just keep doing that, it will pop.

Pics to come on how I repaired the rim....

Breezmister
09-16-2013, 08:16 PM
Each of our cutting crews carries a spare...At some point they changed out a flat, and didn't do a good job tightening up the lugs.
When this broke, it sheared 3 out of the four lugs.

Breezmister
09-16-2013, 08:23 PM
Now what I did was remove the tire from the rim. Used my small grinder and cleaned up both sides of the rim. Then got some large washers, cut them down so they would fit.

Breezmister
09-16-2013, 08:40 PM
There was damage to the hub from the rim riding around loose, so I got a new hub and studs. I set the hub up on some short 2x4 blocks.
Centered the hub with the washers in place, then ran the lug nuts down to keep every thing from moving and the protect the threads on the studs.

I have an old Lincoln stick welder, it's good enough for what I have to do. If you get this far, DO NOT WELD WITH A TIRE ON THE RIM.

I tacked the washers in place, removed the hub and finished welding the washers. Then cleaned up my welding with my small grinder.

Breezmister
09-16-2013, 08:48 PM
Now if you want to go that extra step......In my case, keep the Boss happy Thumbs Up

I sand blasted the rim and painted it. Mounted the tire the next day and it has been out working every day since May

Jeffandtamara
09-16-2013, 10:34 PM
Persistence finally paid off and I got the Hub off using a 3 arm puller and alternating pressure and penetrating oil.

Breezmister You certainly answered my next question....

It is about cost and where to buy the parts. I have located all the part numbers and ScagOEMParts.com had a price of $565.81 $352 of it was for the Wheel Assembly. I guess that is the wheel and tire together. I need the tire, but I think I could get a new one for about $100... so pretty pricey.
Where is a good place to get the parts... I am heading to the Scag Dealer tomorrow to see what they think the parts are worth.... I hope I don't have to go through the percision welding and such that Breezmister, but maybe that would make good sense... I might check with the local tire store and see what they might recommend....

Breezmister
09-17-2013, 01:05 AM
When you see your Scag dealer, ask him if he has any used rims and hubs from any junked machines. Check out any local welding shops, maybe they could weld something up for you. Auto parts stores might be able to get you over sized studs, alittle drilling and pressing them in, maybe Helicoil. Check out Ebay.

I know that if you buy all that stuff new, I'm guessing that it is all dealer only parts, it's going to hurt.

herler
09-17-2013, 10:44 AM
I don't think I would have went past where you put the washers in place but that's a fine rebuild there, hope the paint holds.

Jeffandtamara
09-17-2013, 09:28 PM
Well I followed the advice Breezmister gave and found some used parts. All except the Wheel and Tire. Anyone know of a used source for a 24x12 rim??? The parts machine I found had 12x10 rims and tires.. Everything else crossed over just fine.

Might consider a repair, but don't have equipment to get the tire off and on the rim. Not sure I could do it with out the right stuff...

Any chance auto tire shops might have the equipment to take the tires off and repair rims???

dutch1
09-17-2013, 10:13 PM
Jeff, on more than one occasion, I've broken down a tire on a rim by running over the tire with my front pickup tire, getting as close to the rim as possible. An assistant to stand on the outer portion of the tire and rim is helpful. Once broken down, snap a set of visegrips on the rim and use a pair of large screwdrivers to work away from the visegrip around the rim. Lubing the bead and the rim is helpful.

Yeah, a shop can do the job but I've never believed in paying for a job that I can accomplish myself.

Breezmister
09-18-2013, 02:28 AM
The parts machine I found had 12x10 rims and tires.. Everything else crossed over just fine.

Go to the Equipment & Parts Marketplace on here and sell the rims. It should be the section just above this one.

Might consider a repair, but don't have equipment to get the tire off and on the rim. Not sure I could do it with out the right stuff...

If you are interested in buying the equipment, Northern Equipment or Gemplers, or Harbor freight...Just search for manual tire machines.


Any chance auto tire shops might have the equipment to take the tires off and repair rims???

That shouldn't be a problem for them, just stick on a machine and done.

Jeffandtamara
09-24-2013, 10:24 PM
Followed Breeze's lead...did the Wheel Weld Washer thing... Have mowed the Yard Once...Seemed to work, Wheel did not get loose. Checked multiple times..
Instead of this repair costing $550 Bucks.... I got away so far with just a little over $100.... So I am feeling pretty good. http://www.lawnsite.com/images/smilies/smilie_flagge13.gif