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View Full Version : Liquid N with Fe, lowers the N needed?


sedge
01-16-2008, 12:43 AM
I am taking over the Chemical side of the business this year for my brother and I have a question about liquid fertilizer. I am here in Oklahoma, so Bermuda grasses. If and so far that's a big if, if you were going to use liquid Iron (chealated?) with your liquid fert apps, can you lower that amount of N? If so, by how much? I will be using CORON as my liquid with micros & 65% slow release i think it is. 1 gallon of Coron equals about 3 lbs of N.

Liquid is much more expensive we all know, but I am thinking of using it as I can do every thing in one pass, thus saving money. But only if i can lower the amount of N i need to apply. I am looking at about a 1/3 a pound actual N or so (hopefully less). Dumb/stupid or both? Lol,lol.

thanx in advance

ted putnam
01-16-2008, 08:41 AM
I am taking over the Chemical side of the business this year for my brother and I have a question about liquid fertilizer. I am here in Oklahoma, so Bermuda grasses. If and so far that's a big if, if you were going to use liquid Iron (chealated?) with your liquid fert apps, can you lower that amount of N? If so, by how much? I will be using CORON as my liquid with micros & 65% slow release i think it is. 1 gallon of Coron equals about 3 lbs of N.

Liquid is much more expensive we all know, but I am thinking of using it as I can do every thing in one pass, thus saving money. But only if i can lower the amount of N i need to apply. I am looking at about a 1/3 a pound actual N or so (hopefully less). Dumb/stupid or both? Lol,lol.

thanx in advance

Sedge,

I looked into the liquid ferts as well. To get the amount of N needed, you have to use a lot of the product which as you said is extremely expensive. I don't think the chelated iron is really going to help you unless the grass is already green. Like you, I want to get everything in one pass. In the past I have used bagged Urea. The problem with this is you only get about 4-5 weeks out of it. You lose nitrogen to volitalization and leaching before the turf can use it. This year I will be using a product called UFLEXX. It is stabilized nitrogen. This means the processes of losing the N have been slowed drastically. I should get 8-12 weeks out of the N. Theoretically, you can reduce the amount of N to say 3/4 pound rate and still get the same results as a full pound. I will be getting the UFLEXX for about a dollar more a bag than straight Urea. They both can be tank mixed. They both are 46-0-0. One just lasts longer than the other. They both are cost effective over the liquids you and I are able to obtain. Hope this help you.

KeystoneLawn&Landscaping
01-16-2008, 12:52 PM
If the lawn already has a good supply of Iron and you use more to try and green it up instead of N..wont the extra Iron just crystalize?

sedge
01-16-2008, 03:52 PM
Sedge,

I looked into the liquid ferts as well. To get the amount of N needed, you have to use a lot of the product which as you said is extremely expensive. I don't think the chelated iron is really going to help you unless the grass is already green. Like you, I want to get everything in one pass. In the past I have used bagged Urea. The problem with this is you only get about 4-5 weeks out of it. You lose nitrogen to volitalization and leaching before the turf can use it. This year I will be using a product called UFLEXX. It is stabilized nitrogen. This means the processes of losing the N have been slowed drastically. I should get 8-12 weeks out of the N. Theoretically, you can reduce the amount of N to say 3/4 pound rate and still get the same results as a full pound. I will be getting the UFLEXX for about a dollar more a bag than straight Urea. They both can be tank mixed. They both are 46-0-0. One just lasts longer than the other. They both are cost effective over the liquids you and I are able to obtain. Hope this help you.

Ted, i sent you a pm, thanx.

If the lawn already has a good supply of Iron and you use more to try and green it up instead of N..wont the extra Iron just crystalize?

I don't know, but I have been told that liquid Fe will give the lawn an extra greener green up immediately. This is not in the spring only, this is all summer long when you apply the liquid Fe every time you fert. I have seen pictures where it is used and not used. The pictures themselves are fairly dramatic. But of course the Fe is not free, so the only way I can justify the expense is to save application passes and time and cut costs. Just cutting passes & time is not enough. Need to hit all 3.

CHARLES CUE
01-23-2008, 09:10 PM
I am taking over the Chemical side of the business this year for my brother and I have a question about liquid fertilizer. I am here in Oklahoma, so Bermuda grasses. If and so far that's a big if, if you were going to use liquid Iron (chealated?) with your liquid fert apps, can you lower that amount of N? If so, by how much? I will be using CORON as my liquid with micros & 65% slow release i think it is. 1 gallon of Coron equals about 3 lbs of N.

Liquid is much more expensive we all know, but I am thinking of using it as I can do every thing in one pass, thus saving money. But only if i can lower the amount of N i need to apply. I am looking at about a 1/3 a pound actual N or so (hopefully less). Dumb/stupid or both? Lol,lol.

thanx in advance

sedge
we use a liquid 28-0-0 at a rate of 23.50oz per 1000 or 8 gal per acre that last 8 to 12 weeks so i guess that you can on some types of liquid fertilizers but that may not be true on all brands.as far iron goes we use it and with my experience it will not replace N . so how much coron does the manufacture recommend per 1000.but cheaper it may not be
charles cue

CHARLES CUE
01-23-2008, 09:24 PM
well i guess thats .64 lbs of N per 1000 thats the impornt part

FdLLawnMan
01-23-2008, 09:58 PM
Iron is not a substitute for nitrogen. Nitrogen is the primary nutrient for the plant and nothing replaces it. Iron is one of the few micro-nutrients that can be excessively over applied without damaging the plant. When iron is applied it basically stains the plant from either the inside, difficult, or most likely the outside. Basically it is the iron rusting and giving the plant a darker color. I don't know if you have high PH soils, 7.8 and above, but in my area we do and if iron is applied and gets in the soil it is immediately bound up and not very useful.

VARMIT COMMISSION
01-24-2008, 12:26 PM
Read my post of feature micro's. I think we are talking about the same thing just in a different view.

redbuckcavs
01-24-2008, 01:07 PM
Isn't 28-0-0 an Ag fert that contains alot of salt?

I thought using such a product would greatly increase the change of burning the lawns ( Bluegrass/Ryegrass ) if the temp got above 75 degrees. I realize alot depends on the ratio but isnt 3/4 pound of N pretty risky?

FdLLawnMan
01-24-2008, 01:08 PM
Read my post of feature micro's. I think we are talking about the same thing just in a different view.

I replied to your other post and agree with you entirely.

rcreech
01-24-2008, 06:30 PM
sedge
we use a liquid 28-0-0 at a rate of 23.50oz per 1000 or 8 gal per acre that last 8 to 12 weeks so i guess that you can on some types of liquid fertilizers but that may not be true on all brands.as far iron goes we use it and with my experience it will not replace N . so how much coron does the manufacture recommend per 1000.but cheaper it may not be
charles cue

28-0-0 lasts you 8-12 weeks?

Has it got some kind of slow release in it?

You are only applying .6#N. About 1/3 or 28 is in the nitrate (NO3-) form when applied and it lost pretty quick unless watered in.

When I apply my dry fert .75-1#N with 30% SCU I don't get but about 8 weeks or so.

How do you get 8-12 weeks out of a 28-0-0 if no SCU?

CHARLES CUE
02-13-2008, 09:27 PM
28-0-0 lasts you 8-12 weeks?

Has it got some kind of slow release in it?

You are only applying .6#N. About 1/3 or 28 is in the nitrate (NO3-) form when applied and it lost pretty quick unless watered in.

When I apply my dry fert .75-1#N with 30% SCU I don't get but about 8 weeks or so.

How do you get 8-12 weeks out of a 28-0-0 if no SCU?

Its not 28-0-0 ag i here you guys talk about its a lawn fert and yes its slow release but i dont think that would be the real correct term.It stays in a usable form for extened time that stays attached to the soil it uses a product called guardian [may not be spelled right]does a very nice job and no guys no salt its non corrosive
Charles Cue