PDA

View Full Version : john deere ztrak maint.


EJD Lawnpride
01-16-2008, 04:16 PM
How many of you do your own maint. in the winter and what exactly do you do? My local rep. gives 10% off. They will look over the entire machine.

lawns Etc
01-16-2008, 06:43 PM
I have 2 797 and I powerwash them,grease all fittings,change all belts,all filters and fluids save the belts for emergency repairs during the season you can save alot doing it yourself and by saving the belts you can keep a tool kit and jack on your truck so if you have a breakdown you can fix it onsite.

SCAG POWER
01-16-2008, 07:09 PM
Well at 60.00 or what the dealer calls $ 1.00 per min. Do it your self unless you are loaded with cash...............................Blades, air Cleaner, Oil & Filter, Grease it and your off and flying. Belts I would let him do that most are under the mower and well hard to get with a sore back.

cranesrule
01-16-2008, 08:28 PM
There is certainly no harm in letting the dealer do a yearly service if $$ is not a big consideration. However if you are inclined, there are several benefits to consider to doing it yourself:

1- $$$
2- Getting to know your machine. Hands on experience is invaluable and can save you lots of headaches should something go wrong with your machine in the future.
3- Personal satisfaction
4- Knowing it's done right. If you take your time and make sure you follow the correct procedures, there is no one that will do better work on your equipment than you.

One important note: I cannot express strongly enough how important it is to keep your equipment CLEAN. Maintenance and repairs will be much easier and more pleasant. You will also be much more inclined to tackle a job yourself if you don't have to dive into a grease and grass covered mess.

EJD Lawnpride
01-16-2008, 10:55 PM
How do you change the transmission fluid? He recommended that it be done.

Roger
01-16-2008, 11:39 PM
I just did an off-season series of tasks on my Z-track, a 717A. You don't say what model you have, but the list should be very similar. My list:

1. Cleaned it off as well as I could, first with air, then pressure washer (except around the spindle bearings on the deck).
2. Replaced the two air filters, fuel filter, spark plugs.
3. Sharpened blades (most likely will get a new set during mid-season) The underside of my deck was clean because my last use was in heavy leaves. If it needed some cleaning, I would have done the cleaning when changing blades.
4. Lubed all grease fittings. Don't forget the one on the idler post for the hydro belt.
5. Bought new deck belt and hydro drive belt, but decided to put them into inventory because existing belts look good, even after 500 hours.
6. Changed hydro fluid, and replaced hydro filter.
7. Bought new gaskets for the valve covers, because I adjusted the valves as well.

All this only takes a couple of hours, after getting the parts. I knew what I needed, called ahead to be sure all parts were picked and in a box.

The hydro fluid is changed by taking off the filter on the bottom. I put my machine on auto ramps (rear wheels), and a jack under the front. This raises the machine 8-10" and makes access easier. Taking off the filter is the only way to drain. Put a catch basin under, and expect about 9 qts of fluid to drain out. I bought 2-1 gallon bottles of Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic oil, plus 1-1 qt bottle. After the fluid is drained out, and the filter is removed (this is a messy task), be sure the surfaces on the filter fit-up are clean. Put a little oil on the gasket, fill the filter canister with oil (as full as you can get it -- takes some time to settle down inside the filter) and screw on as one usually does with any spin-on oil filter. Put the fluid in the top filler hole. Your manual should tell you how much fluid your machine requires -- my quantities may not be applicable for your model of Z-trak. But, I think the procedures is most likely the same. If somebody with a 737, 777, or ??? can chime in with any differences. Be sure to check the fluid level after it has been in motion for a time.

After finishing, start the engine, let it run for a few minutes. I rolled mine off the ramps, and worked it back and forth for a few times. The change apparently picked up no air in the system, and it was solid when I rolled it down. Beware that you may get some air in the system during the change, and it may take a few minutes to work itself out. You will know right away if the power is solid, or if the air makes it slow.

I hope this helps.

If somebody else has a checklist of things they do as an off-season check, please add to mine.

EJD Lawnpride
01-17-2008, 12:06 AM
Thanks Roger. I have a 737 and 757.

AmsoilPower
01-17-2008, 12:17 AM
The hydro fluid is changed by taking off the filter on the bottom. I put my machine on auto ramps (rear wheels), and a jack under the front. This raises the machine 8-10" and makes access easier. Taking off the filter is the only way to drain. Put a catch basin under, and expect about 9 qts of fluid to drain out. I bought 2-1 gallon bottles of Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic oil, plus 1-1 qt bottle. After the fluid is drained out, and the filter is removed (this is a messy task), be sure the surfaces on the filter fit-up are clean. Put a little oil on the gasket, fill the filter canister with oil (as full as you can get it -- takes some time to settle down inside the filter) and screw on as one usually does with any spin-on oil filter. Put the fluid in the top filler hole. Your manual should tell you how much fluid your machine requires -- my quantities may not be applicable for your model of Z-trak. But, I think the procedures .

Roger---Glad to see you use Amsoil. Please share your thoughts on it and if you use any other Amsoil products.