View Full Version : Towing a Landscape trailer

10-26-2001, 05:30 PM
Hi guys, I'm jus strating off in the Landscape business. I own a 92 manual 2wd v6 S-10. I was woundering if i could tow a small open Landscape trailer W/ a ZTR & walkbehind. I no a S-10 is not a Heavy duty truck. I jus wanna due it for 1 season to save money to buy a 3/4. Will a S-10 tow it ok, or am i crazy for thinking this. Thanks..

Robert Doubrava
10-26-2001, 05:34 PM
if my dad can pull a car out of a ditch with his little toyota 4 cylinder pickup, than you should be able to pull that trailer with yours.

10-26-2001, 05:40 PM
with the right hitch set up, you should have no problems.

depending on the size and weight of the trailer, i would add electric brakes for added safety and longevity of the brakes on your S-10

remember, it's easy to move it, but you gotta be able to stop it too!!


10-26-2001, 07:04 PM
Let me say this to you. Yes, you can. You are in better shape than I. I have a 1998 S-10 w/2.2 Vortec 4 and I'm pulling a 5x10 open trailer and a Walker ZTR. Total weight is approx. 2000#. I'm looking for a full size truck for next season. Chevy WT 1500 w/4.3 V-6 or a Ford F150 w/ 4.9EFI inline 6.
My S-10 gets the job done now but is working very HARD. Do you have the 4.3 or the 2.8? The 4.3 V-6 should do a very good job for what you are trying to pull right now. However if you have the 2.8 V-6 you are in the same boat as I with the 4 banger. I was told the 4.3 Vortec or the 4.9 EFI Ford will meet my needs. Good luck with your next purchase. You have come to the right place to get the right information before you make your next truck choice.
If you have any other questions feel free to drop me an e-mail.


10-26-2001, 07:06 PM
Captdevo's got it right - many people seem to worry about how much their truck can pull, forgetting that what's really important is how much it can STOP!

A small trailer like you describe should be within the S-10's capabilities. The point about the right hitch setup is also important, as is weight distribution on your trailer. If the trailer is loaded too heavy to the back, it's "tongue weight" (the amount of weight on the hitch) is reduced and if the tongue weight is too light, all kinds of interesting things happen such as the trailer trying to pass you or throwing the back end of your truck around.

Correct me if I'm wrong on this guys, but I believe that ideally, tongue weight should be around 10% of the trailers total weight - if you have a 1000# trailer, tongue weight should be around 100#

Eric ELM
10-27-2001, 12:45 AM
Most hitches are only good for 200 lbs of tongue weight too. I agree, how you have your equipment loaded makes a big difference, especially when pulling with a light truck.

10-29-2001, 12:52 PM
Speaking of tongue weight, we have a 6x12 open single axle trailer. Using a 1998 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4 to pull it with. Problem is, trailer is to small for our equipment. Have a JD 525 which is a three wheeler, and a Turf Tiger on the tail end of the trailer. The Turf Tiger weighs too much but the only place we can put it is on the tail end of the trailer to fit. So what happens is the tongue weight is a bit light. If u get the trailer swinging just a bit its a little tough to get it straightened out again, but nothing bad has happend. Next year probley getting a open 16ft trailer with brakes. With a JD F710 and the Turf Tiger. Truck should be able to pull that. In a few years after college ill get a Ford F-350 Diesel :D

10-29-2001, 08:36 PM
i agree how much u can stop is most important. as far as pulling it depends on where the weight is on the trailer. if u can keep most weight ( the mower) just a little bit in front of the axle, you should be o.k. the farther back the weight, the heavier it is.

10-29-2001, 09:46 PM
Tongue weight being too light can cause the problem that mklawnman mentions - "tail wagging the dog" as one person described it to me!

The tongue weight being too heavy can also cause problems, especially when towing with a smaller truck. Too much weight on the trailer tongue may make the back end of the truck "squat" down, taking some of the weight off the front (steer) tires and making it harder to control.

An extreme example of this (and I've seen it done! :eek: ) is a 1-ton tow truck hauling a 3-ton or similar truck. Front wheels practically in the air, steering is a matter of cranking the wheels over & tapping the brakes: every time the brakes come on the front wheels touch down and guide the truck over a bit!

So, like the guys have pointed out, proper weight distribution is important!

LawnPro in NC
10-29-2001, 10:00 PM
I pull a 20' open trailer with a 96 4.3 S-10. Woods 6215 w/ hopper, 36' w/b 2 weedeaters, stickedger, cage on the front and rack on the side. I have weight distribution bars Made by Reese. They run about 600.00. I traded them for some work. I can pick the rear of my truck up by tightening up on the bars. I also have brakes on both axles. I have no problems as of yet. But I'm careful not to follow to close. It also reduces or eliminates the sway. I'm not in a position to buy a truck now but maybe next summer. Have to make it through the winter first.

I definatley recomend the weight bars. If anyone wants more info email me at DJMTAN@aol.com.

10-31-2001, 07:00 PM
Hey Lawnpro
Im guessing if your S-10 can pull a 20ft trailer then my Ford Ranger should be able to pull a 16ft open trailer. I have a 98 Ranger with the 4.0L auto. I plan on buying a 16ft Open trailer next year with brakes, probley those "Jack"brakes?? The ones where when i start to hit the brakes the pressure on the hitch pushes the brakes on the trailer?? Thats what i have been told they do. have a Turf Tiger and a John deere F710, its a front deck machine, to put on the 16ft trailer. I know the Ranger seems weird pulling a big trailer like that but thats all i have money for right now, going to school too. Want to get a F450 when i get bigger business wise.

10-31-2001, 07:23 PM
Mklawnman - I'm used to hearing that type of trailer brake system referred to as "surge" brakes, but that may just be a regional difference - after all, Canada IS a foreign country! ;)

And you're correct about how they operate - they are hydraulic brakes with the master cylinder up in the hitch assembly. Decelerating shoves the master cylinder piston in, sending the fluid to your wheel cylinders. More deceleration = more pressure at the wheel cylinders.

LawnPro in NC
11-01-2001, 08:37 AM
I personally Don't like the electric brakes. Surge brakes are all that I'm used to but now I'm getting used to the electric ones. I would rather have surge. Never heard them called jack brakes. the s-10 is auto also.

11-01-2001, 11:39 PM
Ok i was wrong on the name of those brakes, yes i have heard of surge brakes. Electric brakes hard to hook up to a truck like the wiring?? Is there alot of it or not really?

LawnPro in NC
11-02-2001, 12:38 AM
For elec. brakes check the rear of your truck the wires may be there. then you just pull a wire throught the fire wall to the activator. if there are not wires it's still not a problem. took me 1/2 hr with the wires already ran.

11-03-2001, 07:05 PM
A basic electric brake controller only needs three wires, a ground , power and then one going to the trailer. So dont' let the wiring scare you into not using it...

Lawns2nv, Make sure you get a trailer you can grow into , dont' just get a small one cause you got a small truck.. The weight diff between trailer sizes is so minimal. So do some homework before you buy one.. Bigger is a little better so you dont' need to buy another one a year down the road.. Good luck and definatly get one with electric brakes..

Green Care
11-04-2001, 01:14 PM
Remember " SAFETY " Is first ,.