PDA

View Full Version : Quick questions on Synthetics


casey
10-26-2001, 06:26 PM
Picked up a new unit today & dealer said I could use Mobil 1 from the get go. I allways thought the engine needed a 50 hr break-in period before switching to synthetic.
Also is there any point in using synthetic grease in zerks?
Thanks.

captdevo
10-26-2001, 06:43 PM
i always wait at least 50 hrs. to convert.

i don't waste the money on synthetic for greasing, as i grease most stuff every 8-10 hours anyway

Dave

Barkleymut
10-26-2001, 10:31 PM
Make sure to use an EP rated grease. The rating is by the NLGI and should be listed on the grease cartridge. I usually wait about 100 hours before switching over to a syn. oil.

casey
10-27-2001, 10:40 PM
If synthetic is a superior oil what is the reason for waiting? Why not just start with synthetic? Seems it would be a better "break in" oil as well.

75
10-27-2001, 10:53 PM
Hi Casey - I copied & pasted this from the Heavy Duty Cycles web site, although it's written with Harleys in mind the principles apply to any internal combustion engine:



Oil Facts for Your Harley®

True or False ?

Synthetic oils, (man made), are better than fossil oils, (which come out of the ground).

True: Synthetics are very much superior. They are required in extreme temperatures. In hot weather to slow the oxydation process which destroys oil effectiveness. In cold weather, the synthetic flows sooner than a fossil oil like Harley® 360. Synthetics lubricate faster especially when starting your bike.

"SJ" oils are for water cooled engines only and are no good for air cooled bikes like Harley®.

False: Oil breaks down from heat through a process called oxydation. If your Harley® overheats any oil will begin to break down. Fossil oils like Harley® 360 break down much faster than synthetics. If you are worried about this or ride in an extreme climate switch to a full synthetic SJ oil.

Synthetics should be used during break in.

False: They are too slippery to allow parts to rub together and "break in" with each other. Less slippery fossil oils allow parts to break through the oil film for metal to metal contact to wear in together. Fossil oils should be used until the engine is broken in. After break-in you may switch to synthetic which will slow down further wear since the last thing we want now is metal to metal contact..



Hope this clears things up a bit!

Flick
10-28-2001, 12:22 AM
Use synthetic from the get go! "Break-in" will happen with a synthetic too. What does it matter if your engine takes 200 hours to break-in rather than 50 hours? If you don't use synthetic oil you are robbing power and life from your engine. And think about the fact that your engine will run 3,000 hours or so rather than 1,200 hours.

casey
10-28-2001, 12:54 AM
75,
Thanks for the info.
As a proud Canadian I wish you would make an effort to resize your flags & put he Canadian flag first.
Flick, I believe your info is correct.

casey
10-28-2001, 10:36 PM
Originally posted by Flick
What does it matter if your engine takes 200 hours to break-in rather than 50 hours?.

Does it matter?

maacla
10-28-2001, 10:57 PM
Casey, The fact is that the sooner your engine gets the rings worn into the cylinders the sooner you have maximum compression. This is also a benefit in oil consumption. Some engines will never totally breakin if you use Synthetic oil from the start. True you engine won't have any wear in it, but it will use oil as if the engine rings are worn out. So give it a chance to break in before you switch.

Flick
10-28-2001, 11:45 PM
Heard this one before, "...your rings have to seat otherwise your engine will use oil...". I have NEVER had an engine in my life that used oil during the break-in period. I am not saying that others have not had that experience but most good engines just don't need a break-in period. Now, if you're talking about Chrysler products then you may have a point. However, Chrysler doesn't make L&G engines (thank God) so we don't have to worry about this point. ANY engine will break-in just as well (if not better) with a synthetic as with a dino oil. Let's not forget the ILSAC GF-2, API certification standard.

casey
10-29-2001, 01:19 AM
Ok Flick,
I just read your Blower thread in the Com. forum.
And I was starting to believe you.
75 thanks for posting the Harley oil info.

Flick
10-29-2001, 02:51 AM
Originally posted by casey
Ok Flick,
I just read your Blower thread in the Com. forum.
And I was starting to believe you.
75 thanks for posting the Harley oil info.

Don't believe in me, I am not your God. Recognize and trust in proven facts! I don't give a damn if you run dino or synthetic in your engine. Most of the folks on this board are here because they have little to no education and they call themselves "professional" because they have a ZTR! Understand that lawn mowing is not a "profession". You might make 10 million dollars a year mowing lawns, but that only makes you a rich lawn mower. Clear your mind! The economy has been great during the last 15 years (stopped in March, 2000). The mowing crews expanded all over the country during this period because of the great economy. Now, the economy has tanked. It may go down for the next 10, 15 or 20 years!

The pickup trucks with trailers carrying L&G equipment are going downhill fast.

MOW ED
10-29-2001, 08:20 AM
Break In w/synthetic?

I did use conventional for the initial 25 hours and then switched. The tolerances of these smaller engines aren't as tight as the Vettes, Porsches, Vipers and Aston Martins that get Mobil 1 off the line.
I included the Vette's link below in case ya think I'm blowin smoke past my rings.

http://www.chevrolet.com/corvette/index_features.htm

Roll down to recommended lubricant and you will find Mobil 1 Synthetic.

After reading some of the responses to this thread I think we should switch our oils and coolants, no need to throw a rod.:blob2:

John DiMartino
10-29-2001, 07:54 PM
The corvette comes factory filled with Mobil 1,so that throws the rings not seating theory out the window.You must use Mobil 1 or equivelent,it is required for warranty purposes.I usually wait 150 hrs,then switch to synthetic oil,rather than fill it new,but its yours,so do what you want with it.

Fish
10-29-2001, 08:01 PM
Lord Flick Almighty, what about that dirt? Did you give up on
the gardenweb crowd? So explain for this crowd why one should
switch to synthetic. I am here too. Does the dirt get slicker?
Is slick50 better? Thighmaster?
I just want a good answer, even more so if you are getting
deified for touting synthetics. I will probably settle for even a poor answer. You come on to these forums acting like God's
younger brother, why would anyone switch to a synthetic oil?
Fish

paul
10-29-2001, 08:31 PM
Start acting civil or I'll close this thread down! We are allowed opinions but keep the name calling out of this!

Reread the posting guide lines!

Fish
10-29-2001, 09:43 PM
Are you mad because I called him Lord Flick Almighty?
Or that he started bringing his higher being into the thread and
called all of the posters here ignorant, uneducated laborers.
I cruise this forum and try to give good advice, but this guy
is the one that is out of line. Just let me know and I will be
more than glad to leave. I used to mow for a living and it is
a viable profession, other industries die for many reasons,
but grass will keep on growing.
Fish

paul
10-29-2001, 10:08 PM
Me mad??? No I want things kept civil! Respect each others view and view points.

Fish
10-30-2001, 04:09 PM
You are right. Sorry.
Fish