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View Full Version : Amsoil Vs Mobil 1


Landrus2
01-29-2008, 06:55 PM
Do you guys find any difference in these two brands of oil. is it worth it to run these oil brands ?
I run Mobil 1 on all my gas equipment from new last year. I hade a problem with a Kawasaki 15hp also running Mobil one after 500 hours motor was knocking very loud.
I usually get 2000 hours + out of these motors :drinkup:

Exact Rototilling
01-29-2008, 07:41 PM
Do you guys find any difference in these two brands of oil. is it worth it to run these oil brands ?
I run Mobil 1 on all my gas equipment from new last year. I hade a problem with a Kawasaki 15hp also running Mobil one after 500 hours motor was knocking very loud.
I usually get 2000 hours + out of these motors :drinkup:Specifically what weight of Mobil 1 were you running? . . . . when it was making that noises?

Currently I run some older stock of M1 15w-50 in my Toro 21" and my Brigs powered Tiller. No issues what so ever.

As far as running Amsoil yes it's good oil but why run $6+ a quart oil when you can run a slightly less superior oil for well under $4.50 a quart. Extended oil change interval for mowers, tillers etc. is not a good idea.

The only Mobil 1 oils I would run in a mower would be their more stout products:

M1 15w-50 higher level of anti wear additive
M1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel truck also labeled as Delvac 1 same basic oil different bottle
M1 High Mileage 10w-30 has more of the good stuff
M1 High Mileage 10w-40


I'm also a big fan of Shell Rotella 5w-40 also a diesel and gas rated oil. Also very popular with motorcycles of all sorts

Others also run the 15w-40 Diesel rated oils.

Ridin' Around
01-29-2008, 11:42 PM
As far as running Amsoil yes it's good oil but why run $6+ a quart oil when you can run a slightly less superior oil for well under $4.50 a quart. Extended oil change interval for mowers, tillers etc. is not a good idea.

While my stance on this has been pretty clear, it's for good reason. Amsoil is a great product. If you check, there is a price sheet listed in the Amsoil price thread. I buy it in barrels, my SAE30/ 10w-30 for my air cooled engines runs $468 for a 30 gallon drum. By my math (468 divided by 30 divided by 4) equals less than 4 bucks a quart. Now you're gonna have tax and freight, if you can't get it from a warehouse or your dealer to pick it up for you. But the price thing is not a good excuse for using a product that you yourself said is not as good. You just sold yourself!

UpNorth
01-30-2008, 12:36 AM
I know this is sorta off topic, but I swear by Lucas Oil Stabilizer and use in all of my equipment and vehicles. I put it in my Jeep CJ-7 a few years back and couldn't believe how it quieted down the motor. Since then I put it in everything.

As far as running Mobil 1 oil, don't get em wrong it great oil, but with conventional oils getting better and better, and suggested times on oil changes increasing, I don't see the need to run synthetic.

Exact Rototilling
01-30-2008, 04:41 AM
I know this is sorta off topic, but I swear by Lucas Oil Stabilizer and use in all of my equipment and vehicles. I put it in my Jeep CJ-7 a few years back and couldn't believe how it quieted down the motor. Since then I put it in everything.

As far as running Mobil 1 oil, don't get em wrong it great oil, but with conventional oils getting better and better, and suggested times on oil changes increasing, I don't see the need to run synthetic.You might want to check this out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm :confused:

WJW Lawn
01-30-2008, 07:24 AM
Im an Amsoil man myself....I put it in everything I own.

John Gamba
01-30-2008, 07:42 AM
Do you guys find any difference in these two brands of oil. is it worth it to run these oil brands ?
I run Mobil 1 on all my gas equipment from new last year. I hade a problem with a Kawasaki 15hp also running Mobil one after 500 hours motor was knocking very loud.
I usually get 2000 hours + out of these motors :drinkup:


What Weight where you running with the Mobil one. The kaws like Straight 30, ive never seen that in the Mobil One line up.

44DCNF
01-30-2008, 08:55 AM
Also, were you changing the filter at the recommended interval, which is at what, 200 hours? So you should have put three new oil filters on in the 500 hours - the new one at the installation, one at 200 and one at 400.

John Gamba
01-30-2008, 09:04 AM
Also, were you changing the filter at the recommended interval, which is at what, 200 hours? So you should have put three new oil filters on in the 500 hours - the new one at the installation, one at 200 and one at 400.


I change the oil and filter the first 5 hours and 100 hours after that.

44DCNF
01-30-2008, 09:23 AM
I meant to quote joesimoes2 and was asking him that question. Sorry for the confusion. I've noticed in the Kawi 12.5 manual as well as some others brands, they say using a multi weight, they will tend to consume some oil.

John Gamba
01-30-2008, 09:53 AM
I meant to quote joesimoes2 and was asking him that question. Sorry for the confusion. I've noticed in the Kawi 12.5 manual as well as some others brands, they say using a multi weight, they will tend to consume some oil.


Thats what i have heard also. Mobil one told me that there 1030 is the same or i could use it in my kaw as a straight 30. I dont buy it. Why would redline oil have a straight 30 syn?

Happy Frog
01-30-2008, 11:51 AM
Multi weight oils stays thinner at cold temperatures. This is good because they will protect your engines better when they are cold or are operated in cold weather.
The down side is that more oil will get between pistons and cylinders walls when the engine is cold (before the pistons expand in the cylinders). This will increase oil consumption on older engines (mostly).
You should not see an increase in oil consumption in new engines when using these oils, the increase you may see is when the engine is already pretty well worn or when the engine doesn't have tight tolerances in its design.

Best oils are multi weight synthetic and are so good at protecting engines that most manufacturers recommend a breaking period with mineral oil on new engines before using them (to allow piston rings to seat properly in the cylinders).

John Gamba
01-30-2008, 12:31 PM
Best oils are multi weight synthetic and are so good at protecting engines that most manufacturers recommend a breaking period with mineral oil on new engines before using them (to allow piston rings to seat properly in the cylinders).


Can you tell me Why the New 07 Corvette i looked at came with Mobil one with no miles on it??

Happy Frog
01-30-2008, 12:47 PM
Like I said: "most engine manufacturers" recommend a breaking period, not "all" of them...
I suspect a commercial agreement between the two manufacturers though...

I do not use Mobil 1 since their major screw up in the aviation industry not too long ago: Their piston engine "aviation oil" could not handle the presence of lead in the gas (100LL aviation gas).
This has resulted in catastrophic engine failures and thousands of engines needing a major overhaul.
There is no excuse for this kind of "mistake" in my book...

John Gamba
01-30-2008, 12:59 PM
Like I said: "most engine manufacturers" recommend a breaking period, not "all" of them...
I suspect a commercial agreement between the two manufacturers though...

I do not use Mobil 1 since their major screw up in the aviation industry not too long ago: Their piston engine "aviation oil" could not handle the presence of lead in the gas (100LL aviation gas).
This has resulted in catastrophic engine failures and thousands of engines needing a major overhaul.
There is no excuse for this kind of "mistake" in my book...


They did it years ago on car and truck gas engines. it looks like they solved the problem there.

man of stihl
01-31-2008, 03:20 PM
my 12.5 kawi tend to drink up some oil. i dont know why. on my other exmark it doesnt. i dont notice it smoking or burning it? it seems like everytime i check it, im always adding. i just run walmart oil now. im gonna start putting amsoil in the small 4 strokes along with the cummins. i use the 2 stroke products and love it. anyway, i read earlier on this thread they tend to drink oil?

John Gamba
01-31-2008, 03:58 PM
my 12.5 kawi tend to drink up some oil. i dont know why. on my other exmark it doesnt. i dont notice it smoking or burning it? it seems like everytime i check it, im always adding. i just run walmart oil now. im gonna start putting amsoil in the small 4 strokes along with the cummins. i use the 2 stroke products and love it. anyway, i read earlier on this thread they tend to drink oil?


Try Regular Castrol Oil Straight 30

Exact Rototilling
01-31-2008, 04:08 PM
FWIW,

My dad has an older Snapper 21" beater mower than consumed a lot of oil. As soon as we put some Mobil 1 15w-50 in it consumption nearly stopped. Might be worth a try.

If it was me knowing what I know . . . now I'd probably try some Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30 or the 10w-40. Mobil claims this oil will remove deposits from sludged up motors. These oils are performing really well according to used oil analysis.

Also try some diesel rated 15w-40 if you don't want to run the synthetics.

lawn1234
02-29-2008, 06:51 PM
M1 High Mileage type 10w-30.

nosparkplugs
02-29-2008, 07:39 PM
I use AMSOIL in all my equipment, all synthetics are not equal, and most engine manufactures are putting synthetic oil in their new engines from the factory. Years ago it was necessary to use conventional/dino oil in a new engine; because the tolerance were not as tight. Some engine manufactures are recommending a "break in period": however their engines have already been run for hours at the factory. I use AMSOILS Formula 4-stroke 10w-30 12tbn in my Walker & other ZTRS
I use AMSOIL Saber 2 stroke oil in all my 2cycle engines AME 15w-40 12TBN heavy Duty diesel oil in my Cummins turbo diesel with the addition of the Amsoil BMK Dual by-pass filter system with oil analysis at 20K intervals I have reduced my oil changes to non right now. Most folks think when oil looks dirty it must be, untrue unless you draw a oil sample off to have tested you are guessing. Synthethic oil starts out from a "base" stock all oil companies sample & analyize the base they can reject or accept the base stock to then add their own additive & anti-wear packages. This is were AMSOIL is better AMSOIL rejects all of the samples of Base stock that example: Mobile 1, Castrol, Royal Purple, valvoline accept. Granted any synthetic is better than convential oil, but the (TBN) total base number is what sets New oil apart. Many top brand oils may start out with a high 10-12 TBN number, but over time through engine use the oil sacrifices it's additive package, and at lets say 3,000 miles you draw an oil sample & analyize it you will find the TBN has dropped below 6 TBN. Some "cheap oils start out at 6TBN your Super Tech brand at Wal-mart is a good oil, but wears out fast. My Dodge has over 23,567 miles on the same oil, started at 12TBN is 9.89TBN now, after the whole last season hauling trailers i still have the same oil in a Diesel

TPLawnPro
02-29-2008, 07:56 PM
You just can't beat the Amsoil Saber Professional Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil. We have noticed a huge improvement with regards to a reduction in engine vibration since we began running this oil through all of our 2-cycle equipment! Everything runs much smoother, and it also seems that we might be benefiting from lower fuel consumption.

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/atp_qt_600pxh.jpg

TPLawnPro
02-29-2008, 07:58 PM
Our mowers get Pennzoil SAE-30HD.

- It Works Great; It Always Has.

nosparkplugs
02-29-2008, 08:31 PM
The first thing I did when I got the new Walker MT20 to the shop was changed the engine oil to AMSOIL. You can run the AMSOIL SABER 100:1 if you choose I use 50:1 for added lubrication still no smoke. I get a check from AMSOIL each month for using the oil, and selling it. Went through AMSOIL optional T-1 certification program to get better educated on not only AMSOIL Diesel & gasoline synthetic lubricants & fuel additives, but how lubricants work in general that was 2 years ago. Still learning, and I am switching about 1 person a month

yungman
03-01-2008, 03:53 AM
They did it years ago on car and truck gas engines. it looks like they solved the problem there.

I really think for cars, the only important thing is to change oil every 3000 miles. Through the years, I have 3 cars of different brands lasted 200K miles with almost nothing more than drove it to the gas station and have them change the oil every 3000 miles and transmission fluid every 10K miles!!! I never even think about what brand of oil. If you do that, I am not even sure synthetic is that much better, I never use synthetic!!! Just 10-40.

I don't think you will even burn a little oil when engine is cold with 10-30. When temperature is cool, even 10 weight oil is thicker than 40 weight at normal operating temperature. I think it is important to use multi weight particular if you live in colder place.

I don't see why small air cooled 4 cycle engine is any different. For 2 cycle oil, there might be some VUDU reason for particular oil because oil have to burn clean and not deposit onto the surface. 4 cycle with separate oil don't have that requirement. Just have to lubricate. As I said all my cars last 200K, what more can you ask for. BTW 2 are still runing, the third one I gave to my friend and after driving for another 4 years, he drove it to the junk yard!!! So I don't even know the limit yet.

Don't make it into an issue, just change oil and enjoy!!! Change at half the interval, oil and filter.

nosparkplugs
03-01-2008, 04:34 AM
Conventional oil is fine, but it requires frequent oil changes, and more cost of ownership. Synthetic oil is far superior than conventional oil in synthetic oil molecules are all the same size; resulting in exceptional sheer stability, and enables the oil to lubricate in areas conventional oil cannot. Conventional oil molecules are all of different sizes and shapes, this is due to impurity's found in crude oil base stock, resulting in larger "scar" rings. Synthetics maintain their viscosity at lower & higher temperature ranges, result, at low temps synthetics cling to metal engine parts long after engine shut down, most engine wear occurs at startup, and then increases as the oils additive, detergency, and dispersancy packages sacrifice themself, by attaching to soot, dirt, water, or coolent in the oil, then the oil filter collects the suspended particles & additives in the oil. The higher the TBN the better the oil, and the longer it can keep your oil clean. Conventional oil will continue to have its market share, with rising oil prices how can you not want to reduce your oil changes if only to save money.

yungman
03-01-2008, 03:52 PM
Conventional oil is fine, but it requires frequent oil changes, and more cost of ownership. Synthetic oil is far superior than conventional oil in synthetic oil molecules are all the same size; resulting in exceptional sheer stability, and enables the oil to lubricate in areas conventional oil cannot. Conventional oil molecules are all of different sizes and shapes, this is due to impurity's found in crude oil base stock, resulting in larger "scar" rings. Synthetics maintain their viscosity at lower & higher temperature ranges, result, at low temps synthetics cling to metal engine parts long after engine shut down, most engine wear occurs at startup, and then increases as the oils additive, detergency, and dispersancy packages sacrifice themself, by attaching to soot, dirt, water, or coolent in the oil, then the oil filter collects the suspended particles & additives in the oil. The higher the TBN the better the oil, and the longer it can keep your oil clean. Conventional oil will continue to have its market share, with rising oil prices how can you not want to reduce your oil changes if only to save money.


I agree. I read a lot about synthetic even back in the 80's. I didn't do that because gas stations, Oil Changers, Jiffy's lube etc don't have synthetic option and I am too lazy to do it!!! Result still show with changing oil at half interval, engine out last everything else in the car. It is just good enough. You can get better with synthetic or even those metal treatment that coat the wall. Engine is not the only thing in a car. That include the owner can get so tired of the car after 10+ years and just want it to die!!!!:laugh::laugh: