View Full Version : Greasing wheel bearings
02-01-2008, 04:55 PM
We just purchased a new enclosed trailer. It says to grease the wheels every so many miles. Is there a grease fitting or something behind the tires or how do I do this?
02-01-2008, 09:12 PM
hi there, Indy Kyle i think i may know. :waving:
take the trailer tire off, than with a screw driver remove the dust cap covering the end of the axle making shure not to bend the cap so u can reuse it. than theres a grease seal that needs to be removed gently as well to also be reused. than the bearings should just slide out, once out wipe old grease out of the inside of the axle. than take the bearings and soak them in gasoline for 15-20 min. after wiping them down with a towell, take the bearings out of the fuel once majority of grease is dissolved and blow them out with an air fitting from an air compressor. once most of debris is clear and they're dry from blowing them, repack them with heavy duty grease and be very generous, than rub grease inside of axle where bearing rides, place bearing back in place, replace grease seal, than put the dust cap back into place.. and wala :clapping: regreased wheels. and repeat for other side of axle and other axles you may have.
02-01-2008, 09:22 PM
Greasing wheel bearings here.:drinkup:
02-01-2008, 10:27 PM
Buy bearing buddies from TSC
02-01-2008, 11:22 PM
Thank you Jerry Lee. What are bearing buddies?
man of stihl
02-02-2008, 09:48 AM
instead of having a dust cap. you have a bearing buddy. there is one shown in the picture. most 3500lbs axles are 1.98 axle ends. that is what size you would prolly need. 2000lbs are like 1.78. 5000lbs are 2. sumthing i forget. you just install them with the directions and it has a grease fitting when you take the cover off. just take your grease gun and pump it full. bam your done.
you can buy them at tsc for about 24 bucks a set.
ebay you can get them for like 10 and stainless steel for around 16
hope this helps...
02-02-2008, 09:58 AM
I believe in bearing buddies but every other or 3rd year the bearings should be taken out, cleaned and repacked in fresh grease or replaced if they are bad
02-02-2008, 10:01 AM
I wish they made bearing buddies for cars :rolleyes:
I'd have to guess the reason they don't is because of the brake pads.
But those things rule, Northern sells them as well, bit pricey but well worth it.
02-02-2008, 04:52 PM
Thanks for the info. The axels are 5200lb each.
02-02-2008, 07:24 PM
Depending on the make of trailer, there might be a center grease fitting in the axle. It would be under a rubber cover on the dust cap. Pop the rubber cover, grease till it forces grease out the front, wipe, replace rubber cap, done. Alot of new axles are made that way.
man of stihl
02-02-2008, 08:54 PM
the seller on ebay is called r and p carriages. he has charts and everything you could ever want to know about trailer axles. prices are real good too. id check there first..
02-02-2008, 09:46 PM
Wow, the first responce posted here by Jerry is only about 25% accurite... He got the cap and wheel removal right, but everything from there is not... Once you remove the cap there will be either a metal retainer clip or a cotter pin that holds the bearing nut from rotating. Remove that, then remove the nut. there should be a thin washer behind that nut between it and the outer bearing. Pull the whole hub out slowly till you can grab the bearing off the end. Then continue pulling the hub off the axle shaft. The inner bearing is inside the hub behind a seal. The only way to get to this is to pull the seal, this seal will have to be replaced. Packing the bearings properly is something I really can't type out a description to do... Perhaps google search "bearing packing" and see what comes up. Once you have cleaned out and then re-packed your bearings and installed a new inner seal you can reverse the removal process to re-install. Before you install the outer bearing, I like to fill the cavity between the bearings and the shaft with wheel bearing grease. Iv'e found that a grease "needle" on a grease gun works great for this, if you don't have one use whatever you can to shove some grease in there to about 3/4 fill the void. When you get to the bearing nut you want to snug it up and rotate the hub. Keep tightening it untill it stops. This is setting the "preload" on the bearings. Once tyou have done this unscrew the nut slowly, just until you feel that the hub is spinning somewhat freely. (sorry if this is a vague description, not sure how to explain exactly). Next, reinstall the cottor pin or the keeper on the nut and put the dust cap back on.
Yes, the "bearing buddy" deals are nice, they are a must for boat trailers that are submerdged under water. They are about $15 to $20 a pair at most stores. Even if you keep the axles greased you still may need to tighten the bearings up once every couple years, depending on how many miles you log.
Hopefully your new trailer has the greaseable axles. But if not the above will aid you in the future.
02-04-2008, 06:38 PM
Hopefully your new trailer has the greaseable axles. But if not the above will aid you in the future.[im sry mr. rose i forgot to mention the cotter pins and washer and nut but that is self explanatory in my opinion, il try to be more specific in the future.]
02-05-2008, 11:05 PM
Hey y'all are all most there and this comes from having 11 trailers and 400 yards a week you need to tighten the nut that Jason was talking about even if you have the grease zirts in the centers. The wheel can get just a little loose from turning and wobble off the axle(WHAT A MESS ON I-465 WE OWN A LIGHT POLE $2000payup). By the way indykyle where are you located in the city we are westsiders. WOOD LAWN CARE now.
02-06-2008, 09:09 AM
Thats funny, we had a wheel rip off our dump trailer while hauling rock on I-465. Turns out the lugs were loose and all the weight just ripped the center out of the wheel.
02-16-2008, 10:59 AM
Both trailers have been over twice thats just the most memorable. Usally happens with a load of wet leaves.
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