View Full Version : Scag Wheel Motor
02-11-2008, 01:01 PM
Hello, I have a Scag hydro walkbehind and 1 of the wheel motors is really slow compared to other one. I have seen other threads on this and want to ask a good question. Is it easier to rebuild the wheel motor or buy new one. If I rebuild it should I do the other one. Cost is an issue but want to get some more life out of it. thanks
02-11-2008, 01:03 PM
Get your self a new one if you thinking of keeping the mower.:drinkup:
02-11-2008, 01:50 PM
Have your system tested to determine if it is the wheel motor or a pump issue....
02-11-2008, 07:23 PM
Your linkage just may need adjusting for the pump hydro's to get same RPM per tire.
02-12-2008, 06:57 PM
with mower jacked up the wheel moves if I try to move it. so it still could be wheel motor. any clues what to look for on pump failure.
02-13-2008, 10:21 AM
Initial wheel motor test.
1. A good wheel motor should turn hard in forward. With unit jacked up and jack stands under unit, grab the tire and try to rotate it forward.
2. A good wheel motor should not turn in reverse.
3. If the wheel motor turns easily and or clicks while turning, the wheel motor may have internal damage.
Wheel motor stall test.
1. To check wheel motor leak through, install a bi-directional flowmeter at the inlet port of each wheel motor.
2. With flowmeter plumbed in, put the machine up against a solid object. Run the engine at full throttle.
3. Move the drive handle in the forward direction. Watch the pressure gauge on the flowmeter, when it reaches 3000psi, read the flowmeter. There should be no more than .5gpm registered. This is the allowable limit.
4. Rotate wheel 45 degrees and repeat test. Repeat this process eight times for each wheel.
You need to test the pump first to make sure you have a viable pump to do this test. Hydro system temp also needs to be at normal operating temp....from 160 - 210 degrees.
This is just a sample of one of the testing procedures...each pump and wheel motor mfg has their own procedure.
Hope this helps.
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