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ArizPestWeed
02-15-2008, 12:42 PM
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/dromme/P21336942.jpg

Penscape Landscaping
02-15-2008, 12:58 PM
what is it on?

ICT Bill
02-15-2008, 01:09 PM
It looks like some sort of bacterial outbreak, I couldn't name it though. It look like to me that a bacteria (maybe a fungus) thinks that that leaf is a darn good source of food.

ArizPestWeed
02-15-2008, 01:25 PM
Photenia , that's not spelled right

ArizPestWeed
02-15-2008, 01:31 PM
They had Oleanders there before , cut them down 4 years ago because of fungus , they said .

I dug up stumps and planted these last summer and and this.

I bought the home 1.5 years ago

Another
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/dromme/P21336932.jpg

wrivers
02-15-2008, 01:40 PM
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/dromme/P21336942.jpg

The fungus is entomosporium leaf spot. You'll likely never get rid of it until you get rid of the photinias. You can treat it with Daconil ultrex for some control, but you'll be doing it regularly. The most common contributing factors are overwatering (#1), poor circulation (i.e. not opening/thinning the plants), and poorly drained soil (#2).

tbrom
02-15-2008, 02:10 PM
That is exactly what it is. I had the same problem on my 15 foot red tip photinias last year and was told unless I treated them regularly they would all die. I have 8 of them this tall and sprayed them one time. They eventually recovered and all look fine for now. It is caused by a root fungus and it spreads rapidly. Especially in poor drainage or overly wet soils. Because Texas had so much rain last year that may have been what caused it. Good Luck!

ArizPestWeed
02-15-2008, 03:25 PM
3 in a roll , I forget what they are called , a french word .
They are growing on lattice .
They cost $130 each , so I do wnata save them

Thanks
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/dromme/P21336992.jpg

wrivers
02-15-2008, 03:42 PM
3 in a roll , I forget what they are called , a french word .
They are growing on lattice .
They cost $130 each , so I do wnata save them

Thanks
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/dromme/P21336992.jpg

They are espaliers. If you want to save them, judging by the photo I suggest monitoring irrigation closely and only watering when needed, improving drainage (if still possible), and investing in a fungicide (Banner Maxx will also control this leaf spot). It looks like they may have been planted too deeply. There appears to be a swale right around the rootball that would hold water. If they haven't been in very long, you might be able to raise them up and planted them a little higher.

I'm not sure I understand why someone would espalier a photinia. The draw of this plant is the attractive new growth, and an espalier requires removal of much of the new growth to maintain a suitable form. If you get tired of treating the photinias, (which will be expensive) I would suggest you try an espaliered camellia or varietal magnolia to get some flowering. Or you could use pyracantha or podocarpus if you just want something green.

ArizPestWeed
02-15-2008, 04:03 PM
i wnated a natural barrier from my neighbors and I love Photinia
I have seen a home surrounded by it .
Photinia is my favorite tree/scrub .
I plan on buying 8-10 more to finish the barrier this year

Thanks everyone for your help

ICT Bill
02-15-2008, 04:17 PM
According to the Fla. Dept. Agric. & Consumer Serv, I realize this is for another type of plant but the basics could be helpful. I am not familiar with EBI fungicides

Despite adherance to these cultural control recommendations, fungicides may be required to get Entomosporium leaf spot under control. Only benomyl, Zyban /Duosan , and basic copper sulfate are currently registered by EPA for use on Rhaphiolepis sp. to control Entomosporium leaf spot (15). It is anticipated that the new ergosterol biosynthesis inhibiting (EBI) fungicides such as triforine will soon be registered for use on Rhaphiolepis sp. These EBI fungicides have given excellent control of Entomosporium sp. and related fungi on other hosts (7).

Fungicides should be applied starting at bud break and continuing on a 10-14 day schedule until that growth matures. Care should be taken to apply fungicides, especially protectant types, to both leaf surfaces. A spreader sticker is advised.

The other thing that happens (my opinion) is that the fungicides kill off the very things that keep these opportunistic fungi in check. Basically a kid in a candy shop, there is nothing there to compete with it because their all long gone.

wrivers
02-15-2008, 04:32 PM
i wnated a natural barrier from my neighbors and I love Photinia
I have seen a home surrounded by it .
Photinia is my favorite tree/scrub .
I plan on buying 8-10 more to finish the barrier this year

Thanks everyone for your help

Before you buy $1000 more worth of photinia, be advised that this type of fungal problem is not uncommon on photina, but rather the norm. Take whatever it costs to treat three, then add 10 more and it might be more than you bargained for. Good luck.

vegomatic40
02-16-2008, 07:47 AM
Wrivers nailed it from the get-go. In this part of the country there are two types of photinia...those that have ento. leaf spot and those that will get it. I've used bayleton in the past with good levels of control if you start early and rotate to other fungicides every several weeks but keeping the leaves picked up, proper irrigation and air circulation are keys to control. I believe that my state in particular has removed them from their "approved plant materials list" for new landscapes.

garydale
02-16-2008, 11:08 AM
Photina comes with leaf spot built in just like concrete comes with cracks built in.