View Full Version : Muffler replacement on B&S

02-18-2008, 08:34 PM
I have to replace the muffler on my 8 HP B&S Engine (Model 195707 Type: 0121 01 ). How difficult will it be to remove it after 10 years of use? Do I remove the two large bolts in the top right corner of the muffler or what is the best way to get it off, without damaging the engine?

Thanks for the help!!

02-18-2008, 10:06 PM

I would soak the heck out of those two bolts with penetrating oil, The heads and up against the block and muffler. After soaking overnight bend the lock tabs down off the heads, Give the heads a few taps with a brass drift then work them back and forth. As they start loosening spray more pen. oil on them.

If it comes to worst and the bolts snap off in the block it looks like you have plenty room to screw a pepper-pot muffler into the threads in the port.


Good Luck

02-18-2008, 11:35 PM

as always, thank you very much for your help!!

I'm not sure I understand... does the exhaust port have already a thread, and it is just not used by the original muffler, or is the original muffler screwed into the port, plus hold in place by the 2 large screws?

Thanks for the clarification!

02-19-2008, 01:21 AM
All I know is my own experience with rusted bolts, like they said, soak it overnight first, always do that.

Then thou I had one or two that would not come off no matter what.
The rust, however, is just on the surface, where you see it and that's likely it.

What I did, for myself, is to take a drill and hit those heads and bore through them...
The right size drill bit will be roughly the width of the stem of the bolt, so a little smaller in round than the head.
Then once the bolt heads are off the muffler should come off but there might be something else, I don't know.

Then I just took a vise grip to the stem of the bolt or I think it came out by hand, I don't remember...
But it was easy at that point, drilled the heads off, sure did.

If the bolts break off at the block you might be able to tap into it with a tiny screwdriver and just ease it out.
The worst of the torque should be gone once the muffler is off, but not always.

Now you do have to replace the bolts via this method, be aware of that.
Still, my attitude at the time was if it's this far gone...

02-19-2008, 01:35 AM
I've done what Topsides has said with a few differences. If the bolts don't want to come out after soaking I grind the heads off. Then pull the muffler off. Add heat to the head around the bolts and try to get the bolts to move. Then if they move I let it cool down enough to work some more penetrating oil in the threads while twisting back and fourth. But you'll probably end up just as Restrorob suggested. A screw in muffler. Yes, there's already threads there for the muffler.

Bill Kapaun
02-19-2008, 02:53 AM
And very possibly, the bolts will screw out without any problem!

02-19-2008, 06:33 AM
they should come out easy...just let them heat up a bit..

02-19-2008, 08:37 AM
If by any chance those bolts break. on you you can have them removed with this tool.
That would be your least expensive way to go.:waving:

02-19-2008, 10:15 AM
i have had them round off a time or two. if that happends take a ballpeen and tap the head of the bolt, kinda mushroom it out some. you may have to drive the socket on after but you will at least have something to grab. this trick wooks good on rounded blade bolts also.

02-19-2008, 09:11 PM
Or...just repair the muffler. You can use silicone gasket sealer or bathtub caulk. Silicone can handle up to 400 degrees.

WJW Lawn
02-19-2008, 09:59 PM
You sure that muffler needs replacing??? lol

02-19-2008, 11:28 PM
You sure that muffler needs replacing??? lol

... I'll do it tomorrow. Got to keep the noise down, it looks funny enough with me sitting on this little mower...

By the way, did you purchase the Better that was on the Raleigh Craigslist a week or two ago, think it was around $1600?

WJW Lawn
02-20-2008, 07:07 AM
No I didnt see it up there...but havent been to craigslist in a while

02-20-2008, 06:14 PM
I removed the muffler, after soaking it overnight the screws were no problem at all.

Thank you to all for the help!!

02-21-2008, 03:35 PM
Or...just repair the muffler. You can use silicone gasket sealer or bathtub caulk. Silicone can handle up to 400 degrees.

just how hot will a muffler get????:confused:

02-21-2008, 03:43 PM
If you've ever looked at your muffler in the dark after a hard work out you will see some of the metal glowing. If you can see any red at all your looking at a muffler that's 1000 degree's F or more. Take a look at this link.


02-21-2008, 05:11 PM
just how hot will a muffler get????:confused:

I've measured the temp of of few different mufflers while the machine was in operation.

Lots of variables but...

I took readings in the range of 500 - 1300 degrees F. depending on the proximity to the exhaust port and the load/RPM of the engine.


02-21-2008, 05:19 PM
use red rtv---its meant for exhaust apps

02-21-2008, 05:41 PM
I haven't seen any silicone type that can handle a muffler or exhaust header issue.