Sprinkler zone for flower pots?

[cleancutccl]

Have a customer that wants to put in 2 big pots on their deck for climbing vines, they will be full sun so he wants them to be irrigated. What are the steps needed and supplies to look for to do this? We do regular sprinkler work but haven't done this yet. Obviously run a valve somewhere in the vicinity and a pressure regulator of some sort to run a smaller hose to the pots. Have people used funny pipe or use something smaller that is a little more flexible? Thanks for any info.

[Wet_Boots]

Use drip irrigation, or the related micro-sprinkler bubblers that run on drip systems (at last, a situation for a Shrubbler!)

[hoskm01]

Use drip irrigation, or the related micro-sprinkler bubblers that run on drip systems (at last, a situation for a Shrubbler!)
Beat me to it, Shrubblers are the ticket.

[hoskm01]

My setup would be...


http://www.starnursery.com/images/items/937002.jpg

+

http://www.rainbird.com/images/products/drip/control/wyefilter_bg.jpg

+

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/v/vspfiles/images/rainbird/inline_pressure_regulators_bg.jpg
Depending on pressure desired for shrubblers, prob 30, if only 2 pots.

+


http://waterrite.com/images/drip-tubing.jpg

+

http://www.plumbingworld.com/images/barb-drip-elbow.jpg

+

http://www.berryhilldrip.com/DECK%20KIT%20TUBING.JPG

+

http://shop.bushplanet.tv/images/GROWSHOP/bew_shrubbler.jpg

+

http://www.bfranklincrafts.com/Images/ClayPot.jpg

+

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/991476/2/istockphoto_991476_flower_pot.jpg

=

http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/fat_tire_IMG_1189-tm.jpg
At the end of the day.

[Kiril]

What hoskm said.

I put mine on a separate zone, and run rigid 1/4 tubing through the pots drain hole and either throw a shrubbler or bubbler on it. Of course that only works for pots that will remain in the same spot, but keeps it nice and neat. :)

[Mike Leary]

What hoskm said.
Ditto that...Netafim rings seem to me more even as to application, they are
pressure compensating, so no need for a prv. The shrubblers & micro work
fine, but I'd use two (or more) in each pot depending on the size. I've seen
pots with dry spots with just one head.:)

[Kiril]

Netafim rings seem to me more even as to application, they are
pressure compensating, so no need for a prv. The shrubblers & micro work
fine, but I'd use two (or more) in each pot depending on the size. I've seen
pots with dry spots with just one head.:)

Good point. Smaller pots will take one shrubbler/bubbler, larger pots 2 will be needed. Course it depends on what is planted in the pot as well. A single plant placed in the middle of the pot might be better off with 1/4 inline drip in a ring around the plant as Mikey suggested.

[DanaMac]

Ditto that...Netafim rings seem to me more even as to application, they are
pressure compensating, so no need for a prv. The shrubblers & micro work
fine, but I'd use two (or more) in each pot depending on the size. I've seen
pots with dry spots with just one head.:)

No need for the PRV for the tubing or preinstalled emitters, but it may be necessary for the other fittings. look at the 1/4" ell fitting pictures from hoskm01. With really good pressure, and only a little bit of water actually exiting the Netafim tubing, those ells can blow apart from the tubing. Believe me, I know! :) BUT, if you use the flow control on that DVF valve, it can help compensate for that. Yes, I know the FC doesn't reduce pressure. But with minimal flow through it it will help keep from blowing off.

[Kiril]

No need for the PRV for the tubing or preinstalled emitters, but it may be necessary for the other fittings.

Hmmm, is Mikey getting senile? ;)

[hoskm01]

As Dana stated, agreed, prv to help with the other fittings, keep 'em in place. Up to 80 PSI here will shoot your barb or emitter skyward, or at least give a nice leak.

[Mike Leary]

Install it like this..gives that "pro" look.

[hoskm01]

Install it like this..gives that "pro" look.
That is sexy! A true model of "the way to do it"

[Mike Leary]

That is sexy! A true model of "the way to do it"

Thought you'd enjoy...it had a label on it that said "Kiril Sprinkler Co."

[hoskm01]

I love the backflow that theyve raised up because "theyre supposed to be up high." A new area near mine, new houses going up, all are plumbed in front yard by same landscape idiots. Backflows, right along walk near front door, at at least waist height, maybe more. No elevation change.

ONLY AS HIGH AS THE HIGHEST OPENING DUMBAZZ!

[EagleLandscape]

You know I was thinking... (i know it doesnt happen very much). But the smartline does not currently have a (covered patio pot zone). For instance, if the pots are underneath a porch overhang, and a rain event happens, the pots still dont get water (from rain of irrigation system). I know WM is going to eventually add that feature, but doesnt Hunter or RB have a deal like that?

[Kiril]

Thought you'd enjoy...it had a label on it that said "Kiril Sprinkler Co."

ROFL, cold day in hell. :nono:

John, never fails, seem to always get a Smartline in there somewhere. I'm beginning to wonder if your a rep in disguise. ;)

[Mike Leary]

John, never fails, seem to always get a Smartline in there somewhere. I'm beginning to wonder if your a rep in disguise. ;)

You ever go into a parts store & the guy says, "I used to be a contractor",
& you wonder, "why are you not a contractor anymore?"

[Kiril]

You ever go into a parts store & the guy says, "I used to be a contractor",
& you wonder, "why are you not a contractor anymore?"

ROFLMAO ..... yes I do wonder and have been known to ask why :laugh:

[Mike Leary]

ROFLMAO ..... yes I do wonder and have been known to ask why :laugh:

::Averts eyes to counter, mumbles something about taxes, employee issues,
bidding wars:::: "I could have been someone, Stella".

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

::Ques Sheshrubbler::

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

Install it like this..gives that "pro" look.

Mike will there be any UV damage to this setup?

[Mike Leary]

Mike will there be any UV damage to this setup?

::::ends his miserable irrigation life::::::dizzy:

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

::::ends his miserable irrigation life::::::dizzy:



::thanks the God Lord::

[Mike Leary]

Write when you get work, hey, how about that 500 bucks I
loaned you to go south?

[Wet_Boots]

Next on Judge Judy.....

[Mike Leary]

I got Jim Rockford after him.

[BrandonV]

send check or money order to Brandon Vaughan c/o Toms Creek Nursery & Landscraping.

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

Write when you get work, hey, how about that 500 bucks I
loaned you to go south?

I thought we were even after all the help I gave you to post pictures..

[hoskm01]

I thought we were even after all the help I gave you to post pictures..
Still no royalties from the dance videos?

[Wet_Boots]

I think the CW network has Dancing with the Loons in development, and Rotar's on the short list of contestants.

[Az Gardener]

You guys all forgot the most important part to a professional pot irrigation system.... drainage! don't just let the thing drain out the bottom and run down the patio. "When I was a contractor" just kidding when I did lots of design build work we would sleeve for the pots before they poured concrete so we had irrigation in and drainage out. Then you seal the pots to the patio with a wax ring like the one on your toilet and the water goes out the drain. We usually had it drain into a small french drain 2'-3' from where the line exited from the patio.

We always used bubblers to the pots because the flowers seem to do better with a quick uniform soak. Mind you this was before netafim. The only down fall is if the pots were small the bubblers had to be turned down so low that they would get clogged up by our high calcium water within 4-6 weeks and require opening to flush and re set. The shrubblers are worse I would never use them at least not with our water. I have gone to the netafim mostly but my old bubbler systems still seem to give the best results they are just higher maintenance.

Back to the drainage, if you are working on an area that already has the concrete you hope it is near the edge so you can drill through the concrete and tunnel under. we used 1' PVC cut it a little lower than flush with the inside of the bottom of the pot. Get the cheap 2.00 wax ring with nothing else no flanges etc. Break off a piece and mold a ring about the circumference of a dime or nickle and keep it right up against the hole the hole. Set the pot on it and be careful not to get the wax on anything it does not come out. It is best to have one guy doing the wax work and another moving the pot etc. use rubber gloves. You want to be cautious not to get too much you don't want it squishing out the sides of the bottom of the pot. Once you have the pot set and level you pack more of the wax around the drain sleeve. Then you want to put something to keep your dirt from going down the drain if we were on the ball we had some window screen then L/s fabric came along but if nothing was on hand the guys would cut the bottom of a 1 or 5 gallon plant bucket off and cut some slices in ti with their hand pruners and use it to cover the whole. So long as they were cautious about the first bit of dirt that went into the pot it was fine. These usually last 3-5 years sometimes longer. The wax just breaks down over time. If the pots are small and light, get bumped and moved it can break the seal :cry: We tried lots of different techniques that one seemed to work the best. We Liquid nailed some down and tit didn't get a tight seal. the pot wouldn't move but there was a small leak but we had to break the pot apart and chisel off the base get a new pot and start over. Oh yea, now I remember why I 'm not a contractor anymore!

Don't forget the drainage set yourself apart from the armature's.

We used to charge 250 for a $ 70 pot set sealed and planted with typical seasonals. Keep in mind we were always on the site early for other things like other sleeving, craning in trees and boulders into back yards before the home was built. We also used to average 8-10 pots per home. Just some guidelines. Oh and that was 1992 and earlier. Good luck

[Kiril]

I've got an idea. How about designing your hardscape so you have direct access to the soil under the pot?

[Mike Leary]

I've got an idea. How about designing your hardscape so you have direct access to the soil under the pot?
Like mining tunnels with little carts? We could hire ROTAR to keep the
drainage open.

[Kiril]

Like mining tunnels with little carts? We could hire ROTAR to keep the
drainage open.

:laugh: We can give him one of those tiny tea spoons.

[Mike Leary]

:laugh: We can give him one of those tiny tea spoons.

:clapping: Let Brandon determine the pesticide dose.

[CAPT Stream Rotar]

:clapping: Let Brandon determine the pesticide dose.

No respect...

sad really.....

[Mike Leary]

No respect...

sad really.....

If you ever get a real gig....let us know.

[Wet_Boots]

You guys all forgot the most important part to a professional pot irrigation systemLike what, the grow lights? Ventilation? Bribing the sheriff?

[Ferti-man]

What are you guys (current) Sorry AZ Gardener, using for the potted plant watering? I have used shrubblers, Netafim... Not happy with the overall options there.

AZ Gardener, what fertilization injection systems do you work with?

[Az Gardener]

I think I have used them all at one point or another. I would have to say a LMI pump and a flow meter have been the most trouble free in a realistic price range about, 700 in materials. I have used some really cool ones that adjust the injection rate based on the pH of the water to inject acid to get to the desired pH about 12-K for that one but a good value if you have a golf course or large park etc. They produce amazing results when used correctly. I have a lot of Fertile Earths in use now. a few Dosatrons in the garage. A non functioning Fertigator on my home.

[Ferti-man]

I think I have used them all at one point or another. I would have to say a LMI pump and a flow meter have been the most trouble free in a realistic price range about, 700 in materials. I have used some really cool ones that adjust the injection rate based on the pH of the water to inject acid to get to the desired pH about 12-K for that one but a good value if you have a golf course or large park etc. They produce amazing results when used correctly. I have a lot of Fertile Earths in use now. a few Dosatrons in the garage. A non functioning Fertigator on my home.


Whats the matter with the FertiGator? I have had one on my property for four years with no trouble. I have used the Chemilizer and a few other injection pump systems as well. Looking at organics and how to utilize fertigation with these types of products. Have done up to 95k in sq ft properties so far, but I am working on a quote for a larger property right now.

[Mike Leary]

Whats the matter with the FertiGator? Looking at organics and how to utilize fertigation with these types of products

I seem to remember you could use organics with Fertigator; I think they
manufactured the fertilizer. Am I wrong?:)

[Ferti-man]

I seem to remember you could use organics with Fertigator; I think they
manufactured the fertilizer. Am I wrong?:)

Mike, Yes they have recently come out with a Bio enhanced fertilizer. I have not read up on this new line yet, but as I understand it, it is a blend of synthetic and bio in one type blending. I am not sure the too should be in one mixture. Chemicals with bio = no viable bio as I see it. But again, I do not have the facts on this product yet. Should next week as I know the head marketing guy there, and just yesterday told me the info is coming out to the contractors then. He just took this position a month ago, so he did not have anything to do with the blending decisions. Actually, I will email him and ask him directly for specifics on product blend.
The key is it must be a 100% dissolved solution or it will plug the pre filter or the injector solenoid (older models), or quickly wear the internal plunger as the whole thing is made of soft plastic. Many of the Bio stimulants I use, like Superzime, has a lot of particulates floating in solution. The FertiGator just cannot handle this product. I use a Chemilizer mainly for this application.
What I was getting at was that in the organic world, you seem to use compost teas, different bio type fertilizers for different times of the season and dependent on the needs of the specific landscape being managed. Some are clear, 100% dissolved, some not so much.
As to the FertiGator, the main problem I am seeing is that at the end of the season, the injector is not winterized properly. This causes the fertilizer to dry out and crystallize in the injector, resulting in its inability to function the following season. Must be flushed with plain water before winterizing, then cycled during the blowout (at a reasonable pressure) to get the water out to prevent freeze damage to injector.
Sorry for ramble! Just had my coffee!! :dizzy:

[Mike Leary]

Sorry for ramble! Just had my coffee!! :dizzy:

No ramble for me...you made great points & I hope the others will research
fertigation...it's a cool deal.:cool2:

[Kiril]

No ramble for me...you made great points & I hope the others will research
fertigation...it's a cool deal.:cool2:

Booooo :nono:

[Mike Leary]

Booooo :nono:

I expect we'll get a reason why not?

[Wet_Boots]

No magnets :p

[Mike Leary]

Kiril needs to be making those posts to be # 3.

[Kiril]

I expect we'll get a reason why not?

Proper soil management negates the need to fertigate.

[Mike Leary]

Proper soil management negates the need to fertigate.

::::resists the urge to point out the obvious in gardening practices.:::

[Kiril]

::::resists the urge to point out the obvious in gardening practices.:::

::resists the urge to point out the need to point that out::

[Az Gardener]

I like the fertigators too they would usually last 1-2 years before the the plunger seized up with the bridge product I like to use.

I won a Chemilizer in a drawing but never got it installed. I talked to others that have used them and had some problems with both very high and very low flow rates. I don't remember the particulars it was 4-5 years ago.

I have seen great results with the product I like. I had good results for about a year with other similar products. Then the plants began to decline. I have seen computer managed double pumping injectors using acid to lower the pH and a very low analysis synthetic with many micro-nutrients do some amazing things in our desert landscapes. The question is how much money do you want to spend and how green is green.

Green grass is very easy to achieve and very few clients will give a rats azz if you do it with synthetic or organics as long as it stays green.

The biological products are important to me because it enables me to keep plants looking better than my competitors. It makes our hard clay soils more porous better able to absorb the water provide oxygen to the roots etc. Synthetics cant do that.

That Kiril, he is a real wordsmith.

[Mike Leary]

That Kiril, he is a real wordsmith.

Yep..."keep on talkin', 'cause you sure make me look good">

[n2h20]

you forgot the soil... :)
you must have started with the last step first?? haha...


My setup would be...


http://www.starnursery.com/images/items/937002.jpg

+

http://www.rainbird.com/images/products/drip/control/wyefilter_bg.jpg

+

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/v/vspfiles/images/rainbird/inline_pressure_regulators_bg.jpg
Depending on pressure desired for shrubblers, prob 30, if only 2 pots.

+


http://waterrite.com/images/drip-tubing.jpg

+

http://www.plumbingworld.com/images/barb-drip-elbow.jpg

+

http://www.berryhilldrip.com/DECK%20KIT%20TUBING.JPG

+

http://shop.bushplanet.tv/images/GROWSHOP/bew_shrubbler.jpg

+

http://www.bfranklincrafts.com/Images/ClayPot.jpg

+

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/991476/2/istockphoto_991476_flower_pot.jpg

=

http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/fat_tire_IMG_1189-tm.jpg
At the end of the day.

[Ferti-man]

No ramble for me...you made great points & I hope the others will research
fertigation...it's a cool deal.:cool2:

Should we start a Fertigation thread? :weightlifter:

[Ferti-man]

I like the fertigators too they would usually last 1-2 years before the the plunger seized up with the bridge product I like to use.

I won a Chemilizer in a drawing but never got it installed. I talked to others that have used them and had some problems with both very high and very low flow rates. I don't remember the particulars it was 4-5 years ago.

I have seen great results with the product I like. I had good results for about a year with other similar products. Then the plants began to decline. I have seen computer managed double pumping injectors using acid to lower the pH and a very low analysis synthetic with many micro-nutrients do some amazing things in our desert landscapes. The question is how much money do you want to spend and how green is green.

Green grass is very easy to achieve and very few clients will give a rats azz if you do it with synthetic or organics as long as it stays green.

The biological products are important to me because it enables me to keep plants looking better than my competitors. It makes our hard clay soils more porous better able to absorb the water provide oxygen to the roots etc. Synthetics cant do that.

That Kiril, he is a real wordsmith.

have you any pictures of this "bridge"? I am curious ;) As to the Chemilizer, I custom set them up with a variable flow meter to control flow as well as spec the pump rate ratio to get the general range I am looking for. They need yearly maintenance though, but great when there is no power in area to power a pump injection system.
I understand the Kiril thought, but he needs to realize that all properties I work with have existing landscapes. I do not have the chance to work with soil amendments... I thus have to work with what there is! :cry: Up to now I have been using synthetics, but I am trying to ramp up my knowledge of the organics world.
Price is huge with property owners, especially HOA types. I hope to start converting though once I am informed enough to show them the true benefits of organics.

[hoskm01]

Should we start a Fertigation thread? :weightlifter:
I like it, youre the Ferti-man, start it up.

[Kiril]

I understand the Kiril thought, but he needs to realize that all properties I work with have existing landscapes. I do not have the chance to work with soil amendments... I thus have to work with what there is! :cry: Up to now I have been using synthetics, but I am trying to ramp up my knowledge of the organics world.
Price is huge with property owners, especially HOA types. I hope to start converting though once I am informed enough to show them the true benefits of organics.

There are ways to do it with existing properties, it just takes time. I view fertigation as the band-aid approach to keep impatient people happy. In some very specific circumstances I might see a need for it, but in most cases I feel there are better, and more cost effective alternatives.

You can find discussion of the whole "sustainable" side of things over in the organic lawn care forum.

[Ferti-man]

There are ways to do it with existing properties, it just takes time. I view fertigation as the band-aid approach to keep impatient people happy. In some very specific circumstances I might see a need for it, but in most cases I feel there are better, and more cost effective alternatives.

You can find discussion of the whole "sustainable" side of things over in the organic lawn care forum.

Kiril, Isn't this the reality of today? If you pay for a service, what ever it may be, do you want to wait a year or two while paying me monthly, to get to the end result? It has been an efficient means of distributing a liquid (all be it synthetic) fertilizer via micro dosing. The benefits in my opinion, are much better than the use of granular be it synthetic OR organic IMHO. As I have mentioned in recent threads, I like the idea of organics and I have been spending time viewing the "organics" forum. I am trying to develop (after I get more info) a way to transition from synthetics to organics using this technology. I already supplement bio agents via fertigation, but my customers are still on synthetic fertilizers. This, I agree is a bandage.
I hope to have more discussions with you and others on the organics forum to that end and hope we can all get along!! *trucewhiteflag*

[Kiril]

Kiril, Isn't this the reality of today? If you pay for a service, what ever it may be, do you want to wait a year or two while paying me monthly, to get to the end result?

This is a problem with client expectations and societies problem with the need for instant gratification. There needs to be a way to show/convince clients that pursuing a more sustainable solution will be more cost effective in the long run, even if it takes a couple of years.

You don't need to make the jump to an all organic approach overnight. Use a bridge program while you are rebuilding your soils so you can keep your impatient clients happy (I have more than a few). :)

It has been an efficient means of distributing a liquid (all be it synthetic) fertilizer via micro dosing. The benefits in my opinion, are much better than the use of granular be it synthetic OR organic IMHO.

I can agree with this for sub-surface applications. I have used fertigation in the past, and with careful irrigation scheduling can be a very effective means of delivering synthetic ferts. The thing about soluble and synthetic ferts is the relatively short lifespan.

I hope to have more discussions with you and others on the organics forum to that end and hope we can all get along!! *trucewhiteflag*

Ditto, but I don't think there is a need for a white flag. :) In the event you thought my comment about impatient people was directed at you, it was not. I was referring to clients who expect results yesterday. People need to learn to be more patient when it comes to their landscapes.

p.s. Hoskm -> resize that pic of the y-filter. :)

[Az Gardener]

Fertigation systems can also be used to deliver organics. That's why I got involved with them in the first place. Problem is most of them tend to be a little chunky and much more corrosive than synthetic liquids. So they are hard on the injectors.

The "bridge" I spoke about is a term I was taught (I don't remember from where) to describe an organic synthetic blend product.

As far as a fertigation thread, it like most everything has been done. There are several pages if you do a search. At least 5 with fertigation in the title.

[Kiril]

Fertigation systems can also be used to deliver organics. That's why I got involved with them in the first place. Problem is most of them tend to be a little chunky and much more corrosive than synthetic liquids. So they are hard on the injectors

How about a Mazzei injector?

http://www.mazzei.net/products/injector_info.htm

[Az Gardener]

Been there done that. You would be hard pressed to find a unit under a thousand bucks that was being sold between 1990 and 2004 that I did not try. I'm sure there were some but not too many.

The problem with the Mazzi as I remember was getting them adjusted properly. As I recall all you can do is adjust the flow rate to create a pressure differential which creates the venturi. I was just not patient enough to get them dialed in. I tried a few and even still have one around here for a class I taught.

I put in a adjustable pressure regulator on one side and dialed it down so the flow going through the Mazzi was less than the main line seems I needed about a. 20 LB. pressure differential.

If you have a better method I would love to hear it. The unit itself seems about as bulletproof as you will get.

[Wet_Boots]

If you use one to grow kidney beans, is it fartigation?

[Kiril]

If you have a better method I would love to hear it. The unit itself seems about as bulletproof as you will get.

Did you try all their different install designs?

Option 1 - 3 seem the most appropriate for dinky pipe, assuming you have enough pressure to play with.

http://www.mazzei.net/products/typ_install.htm

[Kiril]

Have you played around with any of these?

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9841/cid/2332

[Ferti-man]

Been there done that. You would be hard pressed to find a unit under a thousand bucks that was being sold between 1990 and 2004 that I did not try. I'm sure there were some but not too many.

The problem with the Mazzi as I remember was getting them adjusted properly. As I recall all you can do is adjust the flow rate to create a pressure differential which creates the venturi. I was just not patient enough to get them dialed in. I tried a few and even still have one around here for a class I taught.

I put in a adjustable pressure regulator on one side and dialed it down so the flow going through the Mazzi was less than the main line seems I needed about a. 20 LB. pressure differential.

If you have a better method I would love to hear it. The unit itself seems about as bulletproof as you will get.

Ditto on that. Hard to manage the suction side to match the water flow side. Adding a flow meter on suction side when managing fertilizers is not good. The product sticks to the flow control meter components and over time makes them stick or gunk up. I like the tank type systems, especially the new FertiGator tank that just came out. I had some input on its design! I know the designer as I worked with him in Denver before he moved out east. It has a bladder inside to prevent dilution of blend. No other tank system out there does this! The flow is controllable as well and is done on the fresh water side. Problem with it is cost. FertiGator is making a good profit on this unit! http://www.fertigator.com/products.htm. It will work with most organics as well.

[Ferti-man]

If you use one to grow kidney beans, is it fartigation?

Now I am not going to bite on this one, (I might get gas) :laugh:

[Kiril]

Problem with it is cost. FertiGator is making a good profit on this unit! http://www.fertigator.com/products.htm. It will work with most organics as well.

Not only upfront cost, but maintenance as well. This is the reason why I suggested proper soil management is the better, more sustainable, and cost effective route. :) The hassles and costs surrounding fertigation just don't pay off in the long run IMHO unless we are talking Ag.

[Ferti-man]

Have you played around with any of these?

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9841/cid/2332

I use a home made restriction on the tank systems to create the differential I need. Then I control flow by using an adjustable flow meter on the high pressure side to manage fertilizer output rates to what I want. I also use a tube fitting that extends into the main line water stream and with directional ports at the end, can use them to "scoop" the water in on the pressure side and "suction" the lower pressure side. This helps reduce the differential needed to make it work.

[Kiril]

Curious if any of you hard core fertigation guys have tried out this system that we spec'd out in our 10K+/zone dream system (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=197404)

http://www.turffeeding.com/m3000.htm

[Ferti-man]

Not only upfront cost, but maintenance as well. This is the reason why I suggested proper soil management is the better, more sustainable, and cost effective route. :) The hassles and costs surrounding fertigation just don't pay off in the long run IMHO unless we are talking Ag.

The only moving part is the flow control. Maintenance involves rinsing tank at seasons end and between fills if using variable products. Not much simpler than this. You have to maintain the hose end sprayers, whether truck mounted or not to some extent, or deal with the spreader you use if granular applications do you not?

[Kiril]

The only moving part is the flow control. Maintenance involves rinsing tank at seasons end and between fills if using variable products. Not much simpler than this. You have to maintain the hose end sprayers, whether truck mounted or not to some extent, or deal with the spreader you use if granular applications do you not?

I'm thinking beyond the actual equipment, but also maintenance involved with the irrigation system (especially drip). Of course you could use acid injection to clean the system of salt accumulations, but what effect will it have on soil biology? Heck, got enough problems with CaCO3 around my parts without adding more salt to the equation. :dizzy: Also, if using organics, how do you deal with OM clogged emitters in buried drip?

In any event, the whole point of organic/sustainable is to get away from synthetics, so there would be no maintenance hassles unless your spraying CT or something similar.

[Az Gardener]

Ferti what is the injection ratio on that mojo unit and how do you adjust it? I like to put my juice out at 2000-1

[Ferti-man]

Curious if any of you hard core fertigation guys have tried out this system that we spec'd out in our 10K+/zone dream system (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=197404)

http://www.turffeeding.com/m3000.htm
No, have not fertigated a property of the size that would require such a system, YET! :cool2:

[Ferti-man]

Ferti what is the injection ratio on that mojo unit and how do you adjust it? I like to put my juice out at 2000-1

That is a variable question and is dependent upon the climate area you are in, the product and plant base you are fertigating to... In the Denver area, with turf and an 18% N content and trying to deliver about 4# of N per season per 1000 sq/ft, I am near 4000:1 ratio. I can certainly put out more such as in the spring to get green up, but for maintenance, I am around the 4000:1 rate.
Turf must be nice and green at 2000:1! where are you located?

[Az Gardener]

I'm in Phx. but the product I use has only 6% N and this year I am going all organic through the injector. We will still be using some granular inexpensive N on the turf but at very low rates.

I look at the product in the injector to buffer salts, break up our compacted clay soils, increase pore space in the soil, so the water we put down actually soaks in and does not run off. We still give a little extra to our heavy feeders like turf, seasonal flowers, roses, citrus. But the injector product makes the need much less.

[Kiril]

I'm in Phx. but the product I use has only 6% N and this year I am going all organic through the injector. We will still be using some granular inexpensive N on the turf but at very low rates.

I look at the product in the injector to buffer salts, break up our compacted clay soils, increase pore space in the soil, so the water we put down actually soaks in and does not run off. We still give a little extra to our heavy feeders like turf, seasonal flowers, roses, citrus. But the injector product makes the need much less.

What products are you looking at?

[Mike Leary]

:What products are you looking at?

What a crock from from mr. no no. :hammerhead:

[Az Gardener]

Here is a link
www.biofeed.us
The new product "Teem" is not listed on the site but it is like the product "Balance" less the N and double the enzymes etc. I am already talking over my head so unfortunately I can't give you more information. I have just been very happy with the results and I can make money on the product.

[Ferti-man]

Here is a link
www.biofeed.us
The new product "Teem" is not listed on the site but it is like the product "Balance" less the N and double the enzymes etc. I am already talking over my head so unfortunately I can't give you more information. I have just been very happy with the results and I can make money on the product.

Is this a clear blend, or do you have to mix it to keep it from precipitating? Making money on this helps. payup Are they delivering to you or do you have to incur shipping costs? Are you solely using this product or a variety?

[Az Gardener]

No mixing involved just pour it in. It is produced locally so I just go by the plant and get what I need. I must give a full disclosure at this point I don't intend or expect to sell any product but I am a distributor. Mostly due to default.

I have known the owner and used the product for more than 15 years at this point. Most of his business at least the part that pays the bills comes from big quantity sales to shrimp farms and the like for the water treatment. He ships all over South America and the far east and so on. So when he moved to Fla. a year ago he gave me keys to the shop and asked that I handle the locals.

Mostly tree companies for deep root fertilizing and a few other Landscapers. He flies in as needed to mix up product and there is a warehouse guy that bottles and ships. I don't know if you could make money after you pay for shipping 5-gal. cases but for me here locally at 19-32 bucks per gallon I do fine.

[Kiril]

I'd like more information and lab test results on the product, but from a quick review of the product you did mention (balance), seems alot like compost tea with fertilizer added to me.

P.S. Mike, I warned you about dipping into that second bottle of Maddog before 6PM.