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Mowman
11-19-2001, 09:07 PM
Do diesel engines get a tune-up like gas engines? If so what is included in a diesel tune-up? Gas I know you get plugs,cap,rotor,wires,fuel filter,air filter. I have NO CLUE as to what a diesel gets if anything. Also how much does the average tune-up cost? Thanks for your help as I said I'm LOST when it comes to a diesel engine. My next truck will have one and I want to know the EXTRA COST of owning one.
Appreciate your input.
Mowman

sdwally
11-20-2001, 10:12 AM
Diesels do not need "tune-ups". Normal servicing is all you should need. Very important that you change all filters when recommended, especially the fuel filter(s). On the newer diesels, the fuel filter will also have a water separator with it. If there are wires connected to it, there will be a light in the dash that will let you know when to drain it.
If a diesel starts producing more black smoke than normal, then you need to change the air filter. As far as a "tune-up", at 100,000 miles or more you could have the injectors rebuilt if you are noticing a lack of performance, also valve adjustments are important on diesels.
Cost wise, your normal oil and filter changes will cost more, however a diesel engine will last longer that a gasoline engine. In this aspect, diesel engines will cost you less in the long run.

DSL DOC
12-10-2001, 11:53 PM
in addition to wally i myself am a ASE master truck tech along with school bus and auto certs. So if anyone ever has any question esp diesel call on me...
anyway it is the "NORM" to change the fuel filter everytime you change the oil, as well as running 15w40. I have seen very few
problems when using dello 15w40 in diesels and stick with it if you start with it. another thing to think about with fuel filters on diesel think of how carefull we are runnin 10 micron filters for hydro drives, the injection pumps on diesel, do not like dirt.
if you get a new truck most of them have a fuel injection system more like a car has similar to their obd II, the injectors do the pop off instead of the pump forcing the fuel through them itself, so less maintenance there valve adjustments are critical also because of the closeness the piston is to the valves at top dead center of its stroke. Have SOMEONE QUALIFIED do it. Exspensive mistake pal. they are definately superior to a gas engine in work life.

DSL DOC
12-10-2001, 11:54 PM
HENCE THE NAME DSL DOC :o)

scott's turf
12-11-2001, 01:32 PM
OK, DSL DOC. Me diesel is surging when the rpm's are just around 1500. At idle and higher rpm's it runs fine. I though it could have been the fuel filter so I changed it and it is still happening. Any ideas? Thanks.

DSL DOC
12-11-2001, 04:35 PM
im sorry scotts i need to know more what engine and size and year electronic injection or mechanical usually the smaller diesel enigines run mechanincal meaning the injection pump forces the fuel through the injectors. the surge at or off idle is generally caused by the governor arm inside inj pump is out of adjustment
what the arm is doin is swinging back and forth the weights and springs cant over come it and every time arm moves one way it fuels engine causing surge this is common ESP DETROITS you ever heard em run in morning rev down rev down rev down and should be included in a tune up by your dealer if is mechanical pump with adjustable gov i think gov is out of whack and any u gas jockeys out there leave em alone special tools to adjust if it is electronic inj prob the tps. u can to your local mechanic if he has computer manuals and have him print out a picture and test procedure for the tps. simply put
put a needle pin in the approp wire and work throttle all way through travel and should read 0-5 volts and should respond quicly on a good multimeter also another trick on surging or drivability problems while vehicle is runnin idle tap lightly on the MAF or MAP sensor if rpm changes even slightest replace it. let me know


DSL DOC :blob4:

scott's turf
12-12-2001, 08:44 AM
It is a 7.3L international engine in my f250. I talked briefly with a mechanic I know and he said that it could possibly be the overdrive kicking in and out. I had a new trans built in the summer so maybe something was disturbed. I will call the guy who did the trany and see what he said. Thanks for your help.

powerjoke
08-18-2006, 08:21 PM
I had the same problem, go online and look up the wicked wheel or the ats ported intake for you turbo. They're not going to give you anymore HP, but they will save your turbo and give you a little lower egt's. surge can snap the turbo's shaft if it gets too bad. 7.3's are known for bad surge and stall.

lawnmaniac883
08-18-2006, 09:15 PM
His trucks surging at 1500 rpms will not snap a turbo shaft, sorry. If you figure that at 1500 rpm you might be building little to no boost maybe 2-4psi then that means that in turn the Drive pressure is probably only 3 or 5 psi max...now consider that at 2800 rpms the boost is 25 psi or so and drive pressure is up around 28 or 30 the 1500rpms aint going to snap a turbo shaft.


As for the surging at 1500 anyones guess is just as good ... could be a bad injector

lucforce
08-18-2006, 09:34 PM
You will need to use some additives on a regular basis or even with every fillup to keep the fuel system clean and keep the cetane level up in the fuel. Diesel fuel in the US is not as good as what is available in other countries.

tomo
08-18-2006, 09:45 PM
hello, typically in auto and light truck there is a schedule also 4 checking injection pump timing usally 4 rotary injection pump eg certain amount of lift at certain crank timing and slightly diff method 4 inline pumps.Periodic inspection of preheat system also.TOMO

Restrorob
08-18-2006, 10:16 PM
Man, You guys must be pretty bored......This thread is almost 5 Yrs. old. :hammerhead:

lucforce
08-18-2006, 10:24 PM
lol !! I would not have seen that if you didn't point it out, Rob!

lawnmaniac883
08-18-2006, 11:25 PM
Who the hell brought this thing back to life then :confused:

Restrorob
08-18-2006, 11:45 PM
Who the hell brought this thing back to life then :confused:


Looks like a newbe :hammerhead: And to think you waisted ALL that hidden talent. HeHeHe !

.


Hey powerjoke, Don't know where you found this thread but watch the dates in the upper left corner or try to stick to the 1st or 2nd page.

Thanks from all..... http://www.gtr-game.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/welcome.gif

powerjoke
08-19-2006, 05:39 PM
His trucks surging at 1500 rpms will not snap a turbo shaft, sorry. If you figure that at 1500 rpm you might be building little to no boost maybe 2-4psi then that means that in turn the Drive pressure is probably only 3 or 5 psi max...now consider that at 2800 rpms the boost is 25 psi or so and drive pressure is up around 28 or 30 the 1500rpms aint going to snap a turbo shaft.


As for the surging at 1500 anyones guess is just as good ... could be a bad injector


I guess you didn't read the part that said, " If it gets too bad" I didn't say it will snap when you're going slow with no boost now did I? No hard feelings jist don't try to make me out to be a jacka**

powerjoke
08-19-2006, 05:43 PM
yea I'm bored. I'm just looking for someone that can tell me why the hell I've lost fuel millage on my 99.5 7.3L psd. I went from 25 hwy. to 18 hwy in under 2 weeks. any ideas? cause this sucks

lawnmaniac883
08-19-2006, 09:45 PM
I guess you didn't read the part that said, " If it gets too bad" I didn't say it will snap when you're going slow with no boost now did I? No hard feelings jist don't try to make me out to be a jacka**


He said back in 2001 when this thread was created that it only surged at 1500 rpms...so it obviously doesnt surge at 2800 rpms so how will it break a shaft?

powerjoke
08-20-2006, 11:14 AM
oh well, I was wrong, I just want some advice about why my millage would have made such a big drop. I have the hypertech stage III, 4" turbo back to my 5" stacks. The wicked wheel, and the Afe stage II intake. and 373 gears. I should be getting better than 18 mpg. hwy. can someone help me? could it be the MAP sensor? EGR sensor, leak in fuel lines, air in fuel lines? What do ya'll think?

Restrorob
08-20-2006, 11:35 AM
Sorry powerstroke, If it don't run on regular fuel I http://www.gtr-game.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/eekout.gif

Start your own thread here in this section; http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=36 I'm sure you will get a greater response to your problem.

Good Luck

DeepRoots
08-20-2006, 05:16 PM
or better yet, go to www.thedieselstop.com or www.oilburners.net

talk to folks that really know about international diesels.
I drive a mechanically injected 7.3 so I can't help ya. Powerstrokes have too many wires :P

lawnmaniac883
08-20-2006, 08:24 PM
What engine? What truck? Auto/Man?

powerjoke
08-20-2006, 10:14 PM
I have a 99.5 di 7.3L diesel. Auto 4R100, I just had a tripple lock torque converter put in with a 1600 rpm stall.

lawnmaniac883
08-21-2006, 03:22 PM
18mpg sounds respectable for a 7.3L diesel IMO.

powerjoke
08-21-2006, 08:04 PM
yea I mean it's ok, but I was getting 25 mpg hwy, What could make it drop so fast, could it be this different fuel we are getting. I started to notice the difference about 2.5-3 months ago. I live in florida, so I don't think I could have winter blend. Thanks for the input

powerjoke
08-23-2006, 10:19 PM
thanks for all the help, but I think I've found the problem. One REALLY,REALLY dirty air filter, my filter minder wasn't working for some reason, but I got it all cleaned out, and my millage is on it's way up. One thing, does anyone here know I you ,or a machinist can gut the stock turbo, change the intake to something like the ats 4" ported intake, then but ball bearings in instead of the thrust bearings, oh and change the exhaust to 1.0. Would that be less money then the garrett BB turbo? they're 1,600-1,800 $. What do ya'll think?

DeepRoots
08-24-2006, 08:58 AM
no, a machine shop probably will not do that.

you need a fuel injection/turbo shop.

try checking "Shivers Diesel"
they have two locations, one in Tifton Ga, and one in Florida.

good prices, nice fellas, I recently have my injection pump and injectors rebuilt there.

lwcmattlifter
08-24-2006, 09:16 AM
Just buy the housing and change it out. It's a very straight forward swap. Why do you want ball bearings? Are you going to run propane and injectors?

lawnmaniac883
08-24-2006, 03:44 PM
BB turbos are no better than fluid floating bearing turbos, just more expenisive. And I doubt any machine shop can swap your internals to BB's.

Either buy a garrett or buy a different turbo. Industrial injection has a good selection of turbos that are cheaper and better than the garretts...their website is fairly new but the company is solid, give them a call and they can hook you up www.industrialinjection.com

powerjoke
08-29-2006, 09:16 PM
I want a BB turbo cause I'm wanting to go with mini me's, and meth injection later. After I change out my head studs and get a larger intercooler. I want something that can take around 35-40 psi. I want to get about 550-600 rw hp when I'm done, but stay street legal. I don't know how much I have now. All I have is the hypertech PP III, 4" turbo back to 5" stacks no muffler, and the AFE stage II intake. If I had to say, I would think I have about 350-375 rw hp, maybe, maybe a little more. But I really don't know.