how to laser level

[STRINGALATION]

well i have researched the post and have not found what i am looking for so here goes.

i have a 104' wall to build and i do not see it feasible to keep using a 2' level on this so got a cheap laser in a kit. it beams 1500 ' i figure i will buy a receiver but would a yard stick do the same thing?

so once i have a level area say 8 sqft. say 2x4 . so how often do i move the stick to checkit. i do not fully grasp the procedure but my laser is not self leveling help

[Sunscaper]

Basiscally yes a yard stick will work. However your laser level sounds a bit excuse me, cheap. You can buy a manual leveling rotating laser with a tripod and storypole and receiver for around $400.00 at home depot. Thats what my first one was. CST BERGER. I still use it alot and like it a little for than my spectra trimble. I spent alot of money of my storypole. I get alot of culvert and grading inspections and needed an adjustable pole for site elevations that read in 1/10's vice inches.

Set up your laser and figure out what depth you would like. Your laser beam is a constant and the storypole is a variable. slide up or down and adjuwst your math to get the desired grade. Hope this helps you out.

[DJ Contracting]

Basiscally yes a yard stick will work. However your laser level sounds a bit excuse me, cheap. You can buy a manual leveling rotating laser with a tripod and storypole and receiver for around $400.00 at home depot. Thats what my first one was. CST BERGER. I still use it alot and like it a little for than my spectra trimble. I spent alot of money of my storypole. I get alot of culvert and grading inspections and needed an adjustable pole for site elevations that read in 1/10's vice inches.

Set up your laser and figure out what depth you would like. Your laser beam is a constant and the storypole is a variable. slide up or down and adjuwst your math to get the desired grade. Hope this helps you out.

Ditto rotating lazer level is the way to go and easy to use just make sure you get a target stick.

[STRINGALATION]

here is link to my level yes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper than $400


everyone skips the part i need.


level a 2'x4' area of the wall
away from the wall set laser on my reciever
move the level across the rest ckecking levels every 1' or 5' or 5" i do not know .
does the length of your material determine how often to check level. ergo ckeck more for blocks and less for timbers.?


just want to get this right my first actual retaining wall and i'm feeling comfortable with all my steps except leveling with ou crawling 104' on my knees ......but i will:cry:



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90980

[YardPro]

you missed the point....

if you are a professional and installing hardscapes... you NEED a decent level.......


don't be a cheapskate and try and cheap out on something as critical as a laser...

that laser is crap....

it will not work with a receiver. receivers work on intermittent lasers, not constant ones.

good luck seeing that beam 30 feet away in daylight... whatever you spent is money down the toilet...

[DJ Contracting]

[QUOTE=STRINGALATION;2226688]here is link to my level yes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper than $400


everyone skips the part i need.


level a 2'x4' area of the wall
away from the wall set laser on my reciever
move the level across the rest ckecking levels every 1' or 5' or 5" i do not know .
does the length of your material determine how often to check level. ergo ckeck more for blocks and less for timbers.?


just want to get this right my first actual retaining wall and i'm feeling comfortable with all my steps except leveling with ou crawling 104' on my knees ......but i will:cry:


Will the wall be one level meaning one hight or will you have a fall? If your wall will be all one level than set your sensor on your target stick and check as you go along to make sure it's the same hight, if you have a fall than you'll have to do more math to get the fall (or pitch to follow the grade of the surounding land, it's really not that hard, i use wooden stakes and set my height with the target stick and mark the stake with a pencile or sharpie, you can do this with a pitch too. Once you have marked all your stakes run a string connecting all the marks and follow the string, hope that helps.

[SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES]

My guess is...if you are trying to find a way to short cut leveling your base (not crawling 104' on your knees), i am guessing this will not be you last short cut you take. How about save everyone the trouble and not build retaining walls. To build a wall correctly, you need to find your lowest point, measure your step ups to match your block, get you a 2', 4' and 6' level and a large dead blow hammer and hit your knees. Other wise your wall will dip and roll. lasers are great for setting your base, but after you have that pritty level, you still have to level every single block in your wall individually.

[Captains Landscape]

screed the base. end of problem. then buy a higher quality laser.

[kootoomootoo]

LiKe sc said ...put the stick down and step away from the lazer.

One 6/12in level one 4ft 6ft and one 10ft and you are good to go.
That bubble never lies...Until you run over it with the skid :hammerhead:

[ChampionLS]

Look, this is very simple. Excavate for your wall. Make the leveling pad a minimum of 24" wide.

Check the height with your storypole and get it within 1 inch of final grade for the top of the base.

Lay screed pipes on your base. Add some screenings (not sand) and set the height of the screed pipes using your laser to the exact grade you need for the pad. You can pinch some screenings under the pipes to raise them. Keep the screenings to a minimum- no more than 1" Once you have a nice leveling pad, you can place your wall blocks anywhere on that pad and make adjustments, and everything will still be level.

[SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES]

Hey Champion. I just got back from Hardscape North America and i posed that same practice to a lot of people up there. Almost every instructor I asked along with every manufactuer cringed when i talked about anything other than modified under the blocks. If it has worked for you that is great, there is just to much chance for washout on those screenings. Also, why would it be fine to use screenings in this situation and not under a patio? They are both situations where load bearing is a high concern and screening are unsuitable for carring a paver, much less a wall of block.

if i am wrong i appologize, i just would not ever use screenings or anything other than roadbase under my block.

[Sunscaper]

$400.00 is not that much money. That will fill up the tank in your CAT with diesel MAYBE.. Trust me you will most likely save 1 full days work this year with the proper laser and receiver. I spent alot more than $400 for my spectra trimble. You will love it and your jobs will go alot quicker, and more importantly more level. Don't be Mashugina!!

[STRINGALATION]

I'm not the owner of that cat and 400 bucks for one job is high.
i did not think using a laser was a short cut but more efficient, there is a difference.
i still planed on using a string level with post every 8' i was under the impression all of the levels were needed torpedos, string and lasers.
i figured me on laaser foreman on reiciever both on walkie talkies we can set.

all points and tips considered and thanks

[leaflandscape]

Does anyone still use stringlines, or am I the only one who's still holding onto dead technology. After all, stringlines are how they built the Empire State Building and a couple other notable structures.

[Team-Green L&L]

here is link to my level yes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper than $400

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90980

I think you are confused on what type of laser level to use. That level is great for hanging pictures or taking up space in a trailer, but you need a surveying level. It doesn't have to be laser. We used an old $300 manual one for years that took 2 guys and too much time, but now we have laser transits that we can shoot grade at the estimate in a matter of minutes for field data. That's the type of level you need. We have a Trimble and Topcon and they both make good ones too. We got our from Craigslist for $400 new (the guy never used it) and saw a Topcon on there for $250 a week later, so you can get one at a decent price if you look around a little.

As a matter of fact, I have the older Topcon manual transit available for sale if your interested. I'll take $150 for it with a White tripod.

[SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES]

No one uses string lines any longer b/c they are not all that accurate. Esp over long distances. As long as your base is relatively level, all you need is a torpedo, 2' and 6' level.

Remember, only 1/8" off at one end of a 100 foot wall is almost 8" off at the other end. Level all the way accross with stick levels. String levels are only good for those few inches they are hovering over at that point.

[JohnnyRoyale]

Does anyone still use stringlines, or am I the only one who's still holding onto dead technology. After all, stringlines are how they built the Empire State Building and a couple other notable structures.

I think they tried that on a tower in Pisa, Italy too.

[ChampionLS]

Southern,

The correct way to build a retaining wall is using solid fill material under your base course, until you meet grade. Once you establish grade height, this is where you place your drain pipe and drainage aggregate. No water will go below your drainpipe to cause any "washout" as you mention. I have read all too many times on this forum, and other places of people thinking you put the drain pipe right behind your first course of block. You DO NOT want water of any kind at your base course. This also omits using clean stone as a leveling pad. You want to use NON PREVIOUS base material when making your leveling pad, and back filling up to the drain pipe. This will give you a minimum of one complete block buried below grade. Screenings are okay for leveling on walls, because they don't need to provide the cushioning that sand does under pavingstones. Screenings are inappropriate when laying pavers, but all the more reason they are suitable with retaining walls. You only need enough to level your blocks. This varies with your screed rails.

[J&B Ent.]

We use a spectra LL500 rotary laser and love it, $1,500.00 but worth every penny. Accuracy within 1/10" @ 1000 feet. One man can quickly check 4 corners of a block as you set it down and then make small adjustments from there with a hit of a rubber mallet.

[leaflandscape]

I think they tried that on a tower in Pisa, Italy too.

That tower's still standing (kinda).:dancing:

[STRINGALATION]

CHAMPIONLS

I HAVE FOUND you installation post very interestingthe drain pipe was notable but the idea of none drainage and more solid as the base makes sense. the terminology used on here refers to aggregate i do not know. buti have concluded that my base course consist of what is refered to here as dense grade. i have used it as parking pads. has not moved or shook it sets up like concrete. backfill will be what is called 57 gravel here

thanks