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echo8287
03-29-2008, 12:43 AM
I just changed my blades on my TT today for the first time. I put some new high lift blades on it to use with the bagger. I then went and tried the new blades out. They sucked better than the standard blades BUT I got a lot of blow out in front of the deck that I didn't get with the standard blades> gassing me out. Do I need to raise,lower, or put the front plate in the middle postion to help prevent this ? or is it inevitable. Any suggestions?

One other question> Getting the bolts loose to change the blades. I don't know who put them on, and with what, but 2 of them were hell to get loose. I had a snap on wrench on the top wedged against the frame and 1/2" breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater pipe on it to get them loose. Surely there is a better way. I tried a 1/2" Igersol Rand(135 psi) impact and it wouldn't do it. To all those using a Dewalt battery impact driver I would have been laughing at you even trying that. I cleaned them up on a wire wheel and sprayed them with some oil so maybe not so bad next time. Anybody use some big plastic washers on this to keep them from getting galled up so bad? Any other tips?

CrimsonLawnCare
03-29-2008, 01:49 AM
to loosen the bolts for our mowers we use a Husky air impact wrench :) works great you should try it

CFB
03-29-2008, 01:55 AM
So how long did those blades go without ever being removed? Sounds to me like you had them on for a long time. Those guys need to be sharpened....often.

topsites
03-29-2008, 02:21 AM
I had a snap on wrench on the top wedged against the frame and 1/2" breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater pipe on it to get them loose.

That's how I always did it.
Just be dang careful, always.

Surely there is a better way.

I never found it.

I tried a 1/2" Igersol Rand(135 psi) impact and it wouldn't do it.

Yup, I know all about this, too.
Oh yes, good times, good times.

Any other tips?

It's not what the gun or the tank is rated at, it's what the regulator is set to AND the pressure on the outlet end of the hose...
Most regulators are set to 90 psi, and 90 psi is the recommended MAX psi and you're not supposed to turn it past that.

Unfortunately the air in the hose has to travel from the tank TO the gun...
As soon as we squeeze the trigger, psi drops at the outlet.
It's like, the pressure is enough for about the first split second, then it drops off and I ain't got squat.
What's happening is the gun releases air from the outlet, now the tank is feeding out air into the inlet as fast as it can, but in the time it takes for the air to refill on the one end what the other is losing, it's not enough to keep 90psi in the line...
Not sure what it drops to, but drop it does, just inside of the line itself, pita.

That having been said, I can not recommend you do this because you will void your tool warranty and shorten its lifespan by doing so, but I keep my regulator turned to between 110-120 psi.

Then, ALWAYS tighten the bolt/ nut with minimum torque setting and just tack in on there, this takes practice.
Most air tool users hold that gun onto the nut until every last inch of pressure is in there.
Don't, just tack it on there, 1-2 'pops' that's it.
Then to loosen you might need the max. torque setting, but always tighten them easy.
The first few times double check the tightness manually, until you get the hang of it.

When loosening initially, allow the pressure to build back up in the line between squeezes of the trigger.
You can hear it 'hissing' if you let go, that is, if it's not coming off...
I let it rest a few seconds, then hit it again, keep doing that, 3-4 tries should get it off.

I also oil my tools heavily, much past what that little inline oiler can do.
Manually I squeeze oil into my tools, frequently.
I get 1-2 years use out of them, some less.

But I don't have the not enough psi problem...
Most of the time my blades come off, that's not to say I don't know a few choice words fitting what we speak of.
Your choice, I can't tell you what to do.

Happy Frog
03-29-2008, 02:46 AM
I always use a torque wrench to put them on (84 ft/lbs) so it's not a problem to take them off: hold the blade with one hand and pull on the wrench with the other, simple... :drinkup:
This way, I do not stress the bolts or the blades.

Nosmo
03-29-2008, 06:43 AM
Had the same problem with my tank the first time I took the blades off. Used a 4-foot cheater pipe to get them loose.

Removing them is easy now - when tightening I use a 3/4" drive ratchet and put enough pressure on the nut to let it make a "popping sound".

Nosmo

Charles
03-29-2008, 08:05 AM
I bought some bolt grease from the dealer and put it on as soon as the bolts look dry. No problems after that. I use a air wrench so they don't come loose.
Your deck doesn't seem level or the shoot is being blocked and can't handle the power of the highlifts. Really, high lifts make for a better looking cut. YOu dont have to lower the deck as much either and save wear and tear.

Atlantic Lawn
03-29-2008, 08:16 AM
Just snug down your blades, not over tightening them, if you change daily. I've never used plastic washers before. We use air for removal and replacement.

hackitdown
03-29-2008, 12:47 PM
I had a super tight nut on a Great Dane when it came from the factory. I brought it back and made the dealer loosen it.

They are never a problem when you do it yourself. I spin them on with a cordless impact, then snug them to 110 lbs with a hand torque wrench. They come right off the next time...110 lbs is easy to remove, especially with an impact wrench.

mowerbrad
03-29-2008, 12:50 PM
I have never had a hard time getting the bolts off on any of my mowers. I will use a 2 foot breaker bar and haven't had any problems removing bolts yet.

ProStreetCamaro
03-29-2008, 12:52 PM
I use an electric impact gun zip zip zip done. Two best investments we ever made was the cordless impact gun and dedicated blade grinder. I can remove, sharpen and reinstall a set of blades faster than it takes alot of guys to just remove them.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/prostreetcamaro/Mowerdeckandblades005.jpg

mowerbrad
03-29-2008, 12:58 PM
ProStreet, what blade grinder do you have. I've been thinking about getting buying one so I'm not spending so much money each year to have someone else sharpen my blades. Also how easy is it to sharpen the blades with the blades grinder?

ProStreetCamaro
03-29-2008, 01:01 PM
ProStreet, what blade grinder do you have. I've been thinking about getting buying one so I'm not spending so much money each year to have someone else sharpen my blades. Also how easy is it to sharpen the blades with the blades grinder?



We bought an oregon (cant remember what model number) from russo power on ebay. It is super easy to use. Just flip the switch and lay the blade flat and pull it across the cutting stone a couple times and your done. Factory sharp blades every time you sharpen and you always get the same grind angle every time. 1 set of blades will last us all season and then some.

Oldtimer
03-29-2008, 04:55 PM
Improper tightening of blades which are held on by one bolt and one washer has always been a problem for some people.

Tighten to 120 ft. pounds or to the manufacturer's recommendations and it will only require the same amount of force to remove the bolt. If a blade bolt is tightened to 80-90 ft. pounds and it is allowed to get very dull or hits an object such as a large ant hill or other semi-solid object it may take up to 300 ft. pounds to remove it. This is commonly referred to as "work tightening" and is only caused by under tightening the blade bolt.

Never ever ever lube the blade bolts.

The newer style of blade attachments such as those used on Exmark's Z mowers only require 65 ft pounds of torque.

1. RTFM
2. Follow the manufacturer's directions
3. Problem solved


Oldtimer

ed2hess
03-29-2008, 07:00 PM
We bought an oregon (cant remember what model number) from russo power on ebay. It is super easy to use. Just flip the switch and lay the blade flat and pull it across the cutting stone a couple times and your done. Factory sharp blades every time you sharpen and you always get the same grind angle every time. 1 set of blades will last us all season and then some.

And it sharpens that curvy part of the blade in the picture? If so I'd like the model number also.

corey4671
03-29-2008, 07:20 PM
I have to agree with prostreet. The best money I've spent so far this season is on the 1/2" 18V Cordless Dewalt impact. I got lucky and caught it on sale at Home Depot for $279. Once my Jungle Jack from MOWPART.COM gets here, changing blades will be a snap. As for sharpening, I just bought a 4" cheapo hand held angle grinder from TSC. I clamp the blade in the bench vise. As the grinder wheel is turning clockwise, I start at the center of the blade and move to the outside edge of the blade with the grinder tilted so that only the edge of the wheel from the 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock position is contacting the blade surface. Seems to work real well. I keep 4 sets of blades for the Warrior and three sets for the Wasp sharpened at all times.

ProStreetCamaro
03-29-2008, 10:40 PM
And it sharpens that curvy part of the blade in the picture? If so I'd like the model number also.


What you see sharpened is the maximum it will go. On longer blades it wont reach the curvy part. Those were off our 48" Cub Tank.


Here is the one we have.


http://cgi.ebay.com/OREGON-GRINDER-BLADES-BENCH-LAWN-MOWER-BLADE-GRINDER_W0QQitemZ360036490825QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item360036490825

echo8287
03-30-2008, 02:55 AM
Thanks for all the advice. I don't want yall to think I am a dumb ass about taking the blade bolts loose. I work on JD tractors,a Case backhoe, and a Cat loader. I have a Quincey air compressor that will pump up to 175. My regulator is set on 100 as I am usually using some air nailers, staplers and the like. I did oil the Igersol Rand 1/2" impact which seemed like it needed it.
The TT was a demo with 90 hrs. on it and I have put about 20 on it since I had it. This was the first time I changed the blades and probably the first time they have been removed from the factory. The standard blades that were on it were in good shape just need a little touching up. In the past when I was removing some part on the backhoe I added some large nylon washers. When you snug them down they compress and also get a bite by the nut. This makes them stay tight but when you need to remove them they are not jammed metal to metal. PS Camero looks like the blade grinder works pretty good.
Anybody got any advice on the front blowout?? I think my front baffle is in the middle postion. If I lower it will this help?

02DURAMAX
03-30-2008, 02:58 AM
A 1/2 Impact Wrench for me..

mngrassguy
03-30-2008, 03:25 AM
Got my blade grinder from Lesco in the old days

CFB
03-30-2008, 03:52 AM
I'm using and edge sander to sharpen my blades (woodworking machine). I find it to be the nuts.