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RAlmaroad
04-05-2008, 07:17 AM
Last October we put down 8-10 K of centipede sod. It was beautiful, did great through the winter but now is yellowing. Has had a little Dimension (Split) 0-0-7--No Nitrogen. Any idea what is going on? Generally yellowing is from over Nitrogen, over watering, clinch bugs. None of these are the problem. I'm thinking iron deficit.
Any ideas what is happening.
Thanks,

bug-guy
04-05-2008, 08:17 AM
any pictures?????

RAlmaroad
04-05-2008, 09:29 AM
any pictures?????
No just that typical yellowing that we see so much because of over-fertilizing. I'm thinking that sod farm shot it with Liquid Urea before cutting it and it stored the Nitrogen in the short roots just before it went dormant. I've got phone calls for all 4 of the people with the same thing. I'm in TN now and should go back in a couple of weeks to check. I generally do not fertilize centipede till well after greenup. Centipede only needs about 1/2lb in late spring and fall, plus it likes a more acid soil with PH of 5.5--6.5.

LawnTamer
04-05-2008, 09:51 AM
I don't know anything about centipede grass, we have bluegrass, fescue and rye, but out here, I would suspect the opposite. After 5 months without nitrogen, most lawns would be yellowing.

greendoctor
04-05-2008, 01:33 PM
Without having the results of a soil test in front of me, I would say iron and N deficiency would cause yellowing. Also, what is the K source in that Lesco blend you put down? If it was potassium chloride, that would explain plenty. Chlorides are salt and centipede does not like salt. I know I have mentioned this many times, but I do not care for root pruning herbicides on warm season grasses. Dimension is another root pruner. As is, centipede is the most shallow rooted out of all the grasses, it grows on the surface. I use simazine and hit grassy weeds with Vantage if they show up. As for fertilizer, I have had no problems with potassium nitrate(13-0-45) and soluble micronutrients applied once per month. I follow a more intensive program than the four rounds per year. The centipede is very green and hardy when fed this way. Also there is nothing wrong with using urea on centipede or any grass for that matter. Just understand that you cannot apply the whole season's requirement in one shot and whatever you apply is good for only 30-45 days. The only time I have seen problems is when someone broadcasted urea dry. It is hard to cover a lawn evenly with 2 lbs of granules. The lawn looked like a green dalmation. Not very professional results, in my opinion.

RAlmaroad
04-05-2008, 01:46 PM
Without having the results of a soil test in front of me, I would say iron and N deficiency would cause yellowing. Also, what is the K source in that Lesco blend you put down? If it was potassium chloride, that would explain plenty. Chlorides are salt and centipede does not like salt. I know I have mentioned this many times, but I do not care for root pruning herbicides on warm season grasses. Dimension is another root pruner. As is, centipede is the most shallow rooted out of all the grasses, it grows on the surface. I use simazine and hit grassy weeds with Vantage if they show up. As for fertilizer, I have had no problems with potassium nitrate(13-0-45) and soluble micronutrients applied once per month. I follow a more intensive program than the four rounds per year. The centipede is very green and hardy when fed this way. Also there is nothing wrong with using urea on centipede or any grass for that matter. Just understand that you cannot apply the whole season's requirement in one shot and whatever you apply is good for only 30-45 days. The only time I have seen problems is when someone broadcasted urea dry. It is hard to cover a lawn evenly with 2 lbs of granules. The lawn looked like a green dalmation. Not very professional results, in my opinion.

I checked the label It was clorine. 5.25%. I did not know that it would do that. I just spoke with the sod farmer. He said no Urea was put down before cutting. He also said that the late frost could be the problem. We did have frost about 3-4 weeks ago. I'll have to check into the potassium nitrate. I was trying to use a granular with the least of anything other that the dimension. However none of the other grass that was older has the yellowing. As a matter of fact it is beautiful. This was new sod next to older sod, which is why the strong difference. This sod was put down beside the county road after they filled the ditches. The fill could have something to do with it also. Anyway thanks for the info.

greendoctor
04-05-2008, 02:08 PM
Because I am surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, I do not apply anything containing chlorides to turf unless it is that Seashore Paspalum. The salt levels in the soils here are borderline toxic as is. I do not use granular anything, because the K is from potassium chloride in most cases. If the fill soil is junk, there's your sign. At that point, I would be pulling a soil test to know exactly. Centipede needs a soil that is acidic, low in salts an high in K, S and micronutrients. It is not about who is going to pay for the soil test. I think in terms of losing the account if I do not deliver results above and beyond what "landscapers" can do.

RAlmaroad
04-05-2008, 02:34 PM
Soil test around here are almost free ($6) I began to suspect the fill--who knows where it originated. I can take care of the yellowing without too much problems. It was just strange that the rest of the lawns (almost 2 acres) was just coming out of dormancy; looking greenish and then the road frontage was begining to yellow. We've had some rain but not torents but it will be fine when the weather warms and the sun pops out for more than an hour. Thanks again.

greendoctor
04-06-2008, 03:58 AM
If it is in the fill soil areas, then get that soil test. With centipede, I do not like to guess, because it is very unforgiving of mistakes. Here, I can get a soil test for $16 from the University of Hawaii. That test is not worth the paper it is printed on. I rather send it out of state to A&L. That way I have an idea of micronutrient levels too and a reference range is provided. Yes it is $35, but I can then formulate a solution that hits all of the points. I do not want fertilizer recomendations because the agronomist is under the assumption that it is practical to till in granules. I invite someone to "till in granules" on a $50,000 install that has already been in for over a year.

greendoctor
04-06-2008, 04:14 AM
One more thing, if that Lesco 0-0-7 is 5.25% chlorine, then it is less than 100% KCl. The filler to make that low analysis could even be limestone. That is yet another reason why I fomulate for an individual lawn with technical materials. I am putting down a measured amount of potassium nitrate + whatever else I want in there and no mystery components. At the rates that I use, 50 lb of potassium nitrate + 6 lb of Feature will cover 2 acres and give you really nice turf. Then add either 4 lb simazine or the label rate of Dimension EW or WSP and you are all set. Having to lift and handle 50 lb bags is a drag for me. Most of my lawns are up to 5000 sq ft, so fertilizer for those is no more than 8lb of dry material even if it a heavy feeder like bermuda.

RAlmaroad
04-06-2008, 11:44 AM
Another thought: I used the 0-0-7.21 Dimension in Tn. The lawns are beautiful, think and green. In SC I used the same stuff at half-rate for the centipede. Would that be of any concern. I used the same Dimension last year on the centipede but was older grass and no problem just like this year. I was sorta thinking that maybe the .21 could have been a little too strong for the new sod. Any thoughts?

RAlmaroad
04-08-2008, 08:35 AM
turfdoctor:
I spoke with another long timer on centipede. He said that with the lower lows that we had in SC a little earlier after the warm up in Feb. that he had seen centipede do the yellowing and would dissapear when the ground WARMED up. Could be that the new sod had not settled into the new dirt. Any such stuff in Hawaii?

greendoctor
04-08-2008, 10:55 AM
On the rare times when it does not get up to 80 in the day and there is little to no sunlight for a week or more, I see yellowing in all grasses. It is most pronounced in centipede, bermuda and zoysia. Of course the centipede and zoysia are the last to grow out of it when it happens. When it rained almost all month in January and it was cool, everyone's lawn looked like hell. But, mine were the first to green up once the sun came out.

Blackwaterturf
04-18-2008, 06:09 PM
I don't know much about Centipede, as i have St. Auggie and Zoysia growing here in the "sand" at the Va/Nc line. Before I moved onto this cursed 5 acres, I thought I was the sh** with St. Augustine. I had transplanted and cared for alot of yards in the surrounding cities. Anyway, I started getting Bartlett Tree and Shrub to take soil samples every year. OMG, everything was out of wack. Also, with all the sandy soil, everything leeches straight thru. Well, I thought I was getting a handle on it, when last year a couple yellow splotches showed up in what had been an awesome carpet of Auggie the year before. Couldn't figure it out. Tried this and that on different spots. Nothing fixed it. Got soil samples back a couple months ago, and the PH has been creeping up yearly, to where it's almost 8 on the Auggie, and a bit over 8 on the zoysia. WTF?? Well, I have a 600 foot well, and talking to some area old timers found out that the water comes up thru limestone. Duh.
So, everytime I am irrigating, I'm spraying lime water on it, thus raising the ph. So, I googled a bit, and found articles saying that if your ph creeps up too much, you will start seeing a yellowing. Could that be your centipede problem? The Bartlett guy said lack of rainfall can also raise ph. So, I dumped some sulphur pellets on it. But, I understand that it's much easier to raise the ph, than to bring it down. I guess I will be sulphuring atleast once a year now, to get the ph down. Would any of you guys know how long after you put down elemental sulphur before it starts visibly correcting the problem? I have a bad feeling that I'm stuck with the yellow for the whole upcoming season. Also, I read where Ammonium Sulfate will lower ph more quickly, but then you have to be careful with your fert apps.

PSUTURFGEEK
04-18-2008, 08:26 PM
What you are more than likely seeing is tha actual stress being put on the grass itself from the Dimension, I see it all the time in lawns with Poa in areas after the app you will start to see yellowing of the Poa almost like bleaching, and dimension will do this to other grasses at times at the higher rates and with granular at the higher rates I've experienced it most when doing early morning Dewey apps and the day ends up becoming warm.

naughty62
04-19-2008, 07:30 AM
I would do soil test or check and ph .I am just gonna quess .mystery anarobic dirt spread out .sod laid,then pounded with 1-1-1 starter ,high ph and high P level tying up iron and manganese, compounded with a little pre M .Just a quess .