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CapnDean
04-06-2008, 05:13 PM
Well...maybe it is? 4 year old battery finally gave up the goat. I replaced it. Everything hunky dory until someone leaves the electric clutch engaged and the key on (Kids). Kilt my new battery deader than dead.

I charged it up and have had no issues til I mowed for 3 hours. Now it's too weak to start. Motor running disconnected the positive battery lead and motor quit.

This means it's not charging.... right?

MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE
04-06-2008, 05:14 PM
Well...maybe it is? 4 year old battery finally gave up the goat. I replaced it. Everything hunky dory until someone leaves the electric clutch engaged and the key on (Kids). Kilt my new battery deader than dead.

I charged it up and have had no issues til I mowed for 3 hours. Now it's too weak to start. Motor running disconnected the positive battery lead and motor quit.

This means it's not charging.... right?

Are the cables ground.

CapnDean
04-06-2008, 10:11 PM
The ground is fine. WIth a good charge on the battery, everything works properly.

I fear that my charging circuit is out. Should the motor continue to run, after I disconnect the positive lead from the battery? When I disconnect it, it dies. I think that this is telling me that I am not producing voltage and am relying on battery voltage to run.

Am I in the right ball park?

Restrorob
04-07-2008, 10:38 AM
Should the motor continue to run, after I disconnect the positive lead from the battery?


No, The engine must have battery power to keep the fuel cut-off solenoid open in order to stay running.

You say you have a "Good charge" in the battery, How good ?

A completely dead 0 volt battery needs at least a full day of charging @ 10 amps and sometimes longer to bring the gravity level back up to the 1250 range, Yes this can no longer be tested on sealed batteries.

Charge for a full day, Let sit off charge over night to dissipate any surface charge then perform the below charging system test.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/GeneralChargingSystemTest.jpg

CapnDean
04-08-2008, 07:41 PM
Why didn't I think of that? I am usually pretty adept a things mechanical (hence my disconnection of the hot lead to check for voltage) But I did not realize that I had a fuel control solenoid on this unit.

CapnDean
04-16-2008, 09:44 PM
Okay: So with a full charge on the battery I read 12.84 volts.

I started the engine and the voltage at idle reads 12.50 volts.

At 3600 RPM, it still reads 12.50 volts.

I mowed for 1 hour at 3600 rpm (electric clutch on the blades)

Now the voltage at idle reads 12.50 volts. Voltage at 3600 rpm reads 12.50 volts.

I woulda thunk the voltage would be much lower witha 1 hour drain in the battery.

When I engage the blades, the voltage drops to the 12.30 range but then when I kill the blades, it pops back up to 12.50.

What to change in the charging circuit?
Is it cheap and easy or am I over my head. The motor has less than 200 hours on it.

Restrorob
04-16-2008, 10:21 PM
Well Dean,

The next step is make sure you have battery voltage to the voltage regulator when the key is in the run position, It will be the third (separate) wire plugged onto the regulator.

If battery voltage is present move to the stator test below, Remember to switch your multimeter to AC volts before performing the unregulated test.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/FH451Through721StatorTest.jpg


If the stator test to be within specs move on to the voltage regulator test. Now, There are two styles of regulators. Without your engine spec number posted I haven't a clue but you can look at the pic and see which you have to perform the proper test.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/FHRegulatorTest.jpg



Good Luck