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scag runner
04-09-2008, 10:56 PM
I have a 22 hp liquid cooled Kawasaki with approx. 1700 hr
the motor runs good for about 2 hrs if i put a new battery in it or charge the old one then it starts to run like #*^$ and shuts down. :cry:
a short lesson on how the motor charges the battery would be great.:confused:
if any one knows how to trouble shoot and or fix the problem this would help me a great deal.

thanks in advance.
scag runner

khouse
04-10-2008, 12:56 AM
First things first. Do you have and/or operated a DC voltmeter?

MJB
04-10-2008, 01:38 AM
I have a 22 hp liquid cooled Kawasaki with approx. 1700 hr
the motor runs good for about 2 hrs if i put a new battery in it or charge the old one then it starts to run like #*^$ and shuts down. :cry:
a short lesson on how the motor charges the battery would be great.:confused:
if any one knows how to trouble shoot and or fix the problem this would help me a great deal.

thanks in advance.
scag runner

Mine has an alternator on the back of my exmark. So I would look for that check the belts, and wires. Great engine fuel miser and dependable.

scag runner
04-10-2008, 09:38 PM
yes I have a DC voltmeter

Restrorob
04-10-2008, 10:53 PM
Posting the engine model and spec numbers would be helpful so we can get on the same page.

Here is a paste of a general test you can perform while getting numbers;


Charging System Operational Inspection •Check the battery condition.
NOTE
○Always check the battery condition before judging other
parts of the charging system. The battery must be fully
charged for accurate charging system tests.
•Warm up the engine to bring the components up to their
normal operating temperatures. •Measure regulated output voltage at various engine
speeds.
○Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.
The readings should show nearly battery voltage when
the engine speed is low, and as the engine speed rises,
the readings should also rise. But they must stay within
the specified range.
If the output voltage is much higher than the specification,
the regulator is defective, or the regulator leads are loose
or open.
If the output voltage dose not rise as the engine speed
increase, the regulator is defective or the alternator output
is insufficient for the loads.
Regulated Output Voltage
Battery Voltage to 15 VDC

P.Services
04-10-2008, 11:15 PM
i bet its a fd661d, its the voltage regulator.

scag runner
04-12-2008, 03:33 PM
yes it is a FD661D Liquid cooled Kawasaki

scag runner
04-12-2008, 04:00 PM
were is the voltage regulator, and what does it look like

here are the spec. numbers

Family SKA6171G2RA

Dis. 617CC(o.617L)

thank you for your help in advance.

khouse
04-12-2008, 04:05 PM
Scag runner,
Why are you looking for things to change out when you haven't even posted any voltage reading across your battery? You should have already tested your battery and voltages recorded across your battery at full throttle and posted something. Restrorob gave you a nice easy to follow diagnosis. We can't help you without numbers.

scag runner
04-20-2008, 07:09 PM
i finally had time to trouble shoot the mower.

when i checked the voltage across the the battery, their was only a little change across the battery at different speeds but it was around 12 volts. I checked the wires that come from the black box on the lower left side of the motor, and they were around 12 volts at different speeds.
I did check the wires coming from the clutch, and the one with 2 black wires was about .13 volts
And the one with the blue wire coming from it had about 8.56 volts.
when i check the back of the amp meter their was always 12 volts even though it was on the negative side of the gage

MJB
07-14-2008, 09:14 PM
I have a 22 hp liquid cooled Kawasaki with approx. 1700 hr
the motor runs good for about 2 hrs if i put a new battery in it or charge the old one then it starts to run like #*^$ and shuts down. :cry:
a short lesson on how the motor charges the battery would be great.:confused:
if any one knows how to trouble shoot and or fix the problem this would help me a great deal.

thanks in advance.
scag runner

Well Scagrunner, Did you get your Exmark fixed, and was it the alternator??
The reason I ask is mine just started doing the same thing as soon as the battery goes dead the engine sputters and quits. I priced a new alternator today from Exmark the same engine you have and they want $330 ......Thats crazy, I found one at J Thomas for 190 plus shipping, then found `1 at Jerrys auto parts the same alternator but the regulator is different for $150 so I'm waiting for it to come in to see if the regulator will work. Let us know what you did to fix yours.
Thanks

MJB
07-14-2008, 09:15 PM
I have a 22 hp liquid cooled Kawasaki with approx. 1700 hr
the motor runs good for about 2 hrs if i put a new battery in it or charge the old one then it starts to run like #*^$ and shuts down. :cry:
a short lesson on how the motor charges the battery would be great.:confused:
if any one knows how to trouble shoot and or fix the problem this would help me a great deal.

thanks in advance.
scag runner
OOppps I mean't your Scag not Exmark either way I have the same engine.

smhardesty
01-05-2009, 03:14 PM
I found this post via a Google search for the exact same problem. I don't see any resolution posted.

I have a Scag with the exact same problem. It has a Kawasaki 22.0 horse FD661D on it. I've checked voltage across the battery with the engine stopped, at idle, and at full speed. The voltage drops after the engine is started and then drops more as speed is increased.

Being fairly new, i was wondering exactly how, what, and where to check to determine if the problem is in the voltage regulator or in the 'alternator' under the flywheel.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Restrorob
01-05-2009, 05:48 PM
Start with the stator (alternator) first, Perform the "Unregulated" test first;

Don't forget to set your multimeter on AC volts....


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FD/FD620and661DStatorTest.jpg


Good Luck

smhardesty
01-05-2009, 07:40 PM
TWO THUMBS UP!

Just exactly what I needed. Hope to get a chance to work on it tomorrow. I'll post results.

And - THANKS. :clapping:

smhardesty
01-07-2009, 04:43 PM
Finally got a chance to run tests on the FD661D. Here are results.

Voltage across battery with 2 amp charger on was 14.81.
Voltage at 6P connector with engine running at 3000 was 32.8
Stator coil resistance was .8Ω.
No continuity between stator pins and ground.
Voltage across battery at full throttle was 12.58.

Stator replacement?

If so, what's the best place online to order one and does anybody have a part number?

RonAyersMotorsports
01-07-2009, 06:02 PM
What is voltage across at Idle different? Lower? If so seems like everything is fine have you replaced the battery?

Oops see you did. Need more info.

Restrorob
01-07-2009, 06:47 PM
Voltage across battery with 2 amp charger on was 14.81.


One can't check a charging system and get proper test results with a battery charger on the battery, Also testing with a battery that a charger was just turned off on will also yield inaccurate test results. A charged battery should be left idle for at-least a hour so the surface charge can dissipate.



Voltage at 6P connector with engine running at 3000 was 32.8
Stator coil resistance was .8Ω.
No continuity between stator pins and ground.


The above testing shows the stator is doing exactly what it's supposed to. So the two items that are in question is the battery and voltage regulator.

Fully charge the battery and let sit for a hour, With charger off test voltage output at the battery post again at full throttle......

smhardesty
01-07-2009, 10:40 PM
I should have clarified.

Restrorob:

The charger was removed prior to checking voltages. It probably wasn't off a full hour, but was 30 - 45 minutes before testing.

Stator coil resistance was .8Ω and the chart you provided specifies between .11Ω and .18Ω.

I did check at full throttle and voltage across 6P was 36.6.

RonAyersMotorsports:

Yep. Voltage at idle was 12.78 and decreased to 12.6 at full throttle. In addition, voltage dropped to near 12.0 volts when I kicked the deck in.(forgot to write the exact figure down)


A little history on this machine. The gentleman that had it said he had the voltage regulator replaced in April of 2008. In May of 2008 he had to replace the battery. He stated that after the first mowing with the new battery, he had to charge the battery and start the mower using the 200 amp boost. He did that for the remainder of last year.

The first thing I checked when I got the machine was the battery. I had to add nearly two quarts of distilled water. I slow charged it, then discharged it using a 12 volt headlamp, then charged it again. I tested it using a battery tester, a hygrometer, and also checked voltage from cell to cell. The battery tests good and will start the mower several times without being recharged.

I just now went out and checked voltage across the battery (no charger on it) and it shows 12.82 volts with engine off.

Bill Kapaun
01-08-2009, 02:36 AM
"Stator coil resistance was .8Ω and the chart you provided specifies between .11Ω and .18Ω."
It can be rather difficult to get accurate readings at such low resistances. Did you allow for the resistance of the test leads and use the LOWEST OHMS scale?

"I did check at full throttle and voltage across 6P was 36.6."
IF you used the AC range, it sounds like the stator is good!

smhardesty
01-08-2009, 09:18 AM
Bill

I did use the lowest OHMS setting on each of two 'El Cheapo' multimeters. As for allowing for resistance of the test leads - no. I'm sure no electrician. I just read what the meter said.

I did some other research and one fellow I contacted stated that the gentleman who had this machine before might have burnt the new voltage regulator when he was continually charging the battery. His comment was that the some chargers can be very hard on voltage regulators if left connected for long periods and especially hard on them if the 200 amp 'Engine Start' boost was continually used. I do know that the boost was used to start the mower every week from the end of May until the middle of October.

And yes, I was using the AC setting on the meter. I checked that voltage with two different meters and the 32.8 at 3000RPM and 36.6 at full throttle (I checked RPMs at about 3500) was very consistent. While running there was only .1 or .2 volt change on the meter.

RonAyersMotorsports
01-08-2009, 09:30 AM
Ok sounds like the regulator since you say the alternator or stator is putting out 32 amps. If your volts are like that not running they should read over 13 with the new regulator. Wish I could have hands on. Regulator isn't to expensive and easy to replace try it and see.

smhardesty
01-08-2009, 11:27 AM
I finally found a parts list online and I've been able to locate a regulator for $94.00 plus shipping. The part number I found is 21066-2070. Does all that seem correct?

Restrorob
01-09-2009, 07:57 AM
Before investing in a new regulator you want to confirm you have switched (when key is in run position) power to the regulator. Some OEM's install a in-line fuse that could be blown or the holder corroded (bad connection).

If switched power is present the likely cause is a burnt regulator, I do have the spec. test on the regulator as well if you would like to confirm the regulator bad without doubt......

smhardesty
01-09-2009, 09:12 AM
Restrorob,

Sure. I'd as just as soon run every test I can before replacing any parts.

There are two fuses in the control box that houses the ignition key and gauges. I checked them both and they seem OK. If you have a test procedure to confirm this, please post.

Restrorob
01-09-2009, 12:34 PM
Here you go;

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FD/FD620661RegulatorTest.jpg


Just make sure you have the switched power to the post that is shown above....

smhardesty
01-09-2009, 06:42 PM
Restrorob,

Looks like I need a regulator. I tested according to the chart. Set at 200 Ω on my meter, I got 'open' readings across every pair of pins. I had to switch all the way to 2M Ω before I got any readings and then only across a couple different pairs.

Regulator?

Restrorob
01-09-2009, 07:42 PM
Well, You've been through the system now so it appears the regulator is the culprit.

The one you found is the correct one and that is a heck of a deal delivered, Kawi's list price regulator alone is $98.95.....


Good Luck

smhardesty
01-09-2009, 09:37 PM
Great. Thanks for providing the specs to perform the testing. I'll order the new regulator later this evening.

Kawasakis sure are a different dog than an old Briggs. The times, they are a changin'. :)

Thanks to all you guys that have responded to this. Looks like I have a new place to hang. :clapping:

smhardesty
01-10-2009, 09:07 PM
Just one more note on this problem.

This afternoon I scraped off and cleaned the old regulator, looking for a number. Once I found it, I Googled the number and started cross referencing it. The number on the regulator is SH578-12. The info I found tells me that this regulator is for Kaw models FB460, FC400, FC420, and FC540 with 13, 15 & 17 amp charging systems on engines up to 18 HP. Since the engine I have is a 22 horse with a 20 amp system, I'm guessing I know why the thing failed so quickly. :rolleyes:

I made that old crucial mistake of ASSUMING the place that installed the regulator last Spring had installed the correct one. Yeah, I know,,,, NEVER assume. :hammerhead:

Bill Kapaun
01-11-2009, 04:20 AM
The shop probably had that in stock, and after all, a VR is a VR, isn;t it?:)

The only problem occurs when your system is putting out nearly full AMPS, like with a badly discharged battery etc.
It's that 1% of the time that bites you!

smhardesty
01-11-2009, 12:05 PM
YEP! And since the mower had a battery that required nearly 2 quarts of water, I'd say the old charging system was working overtime. I still have to wonder if the battery was properly prepared for sale. It's hard to imaging a battery losing 2 quarts of water in one summer's mowing, but maybe it did. :rolleyes:

smhardesty
01-21-2009, 05:33 PM
Just an update on the problem I had. I put the new regulator on earlier today. Voltage across the battery with the engine running is now 14.6. HOT DOG! :clapping:

Thanks to you guys that helped me out. I really appreciate it.

Phil G
01-21-2009, 05:43 PM
Well, You've been through the system now so it appears the regulator is the culprit.

The one you found is the correct one and that is a heck of a deal delivered, Kawi's list price regulator alone is $98.95.....


Good Luck


Smart-arse:rolleyes:
Well done Rob, on the button.


atb Phil

Restrorob
01-22-2009, 06:57 AM
Glad to hear it's up and charging !!!



Smart-arse


Someone has to be Phil..... Right ? :waving: