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TIMELESS
05-06-2008, 01:26 AM
never built a lawn....new home owner wants me to reseed a lawn that never came up...not sure what i should be doing or charging....gonna grade, loosen and pulerize, fertilize...mill the top 1/2 in of soil then reseed...any help would be GREATLY appreciated

mngrassguy
05-06-2008, 04:18 AM
First, I would ask why didn't the seed come up the first time. Was it because they tried to seed in the spring last year? No watering? Poor soil (soil test)?

RigglePLC
05-06-2008, 07:34 AM
Get payment as you go. If they don't water they may not get results and you may not get paid. Read their water meter (or bill) before and each week after, if they don't put down $200 in water--no guaraantee--all bets are off. Get two cheap moisture meters at a garden store or dept. One for you--one for them. If the meter ever reads less than "adequate" in all parts of the lawn--guarantee is lost.

TIMELESS
05-06-2008, 12:00 PM
how much should i charge to reseed a 25000sqft lawn?

BillyRgn
05-06-2008, 12:42 PM
how much should i charge to reseed a 25000sqft lawn?

what are your cost, how much topsoil, do you need a harley rake or can you do it by hand? are you going to hydo seed it, seed and hay or sod ?

TIMELESS
05-06-2008, 12:47 PM
im open to suggestions but had a rough plan to prep the area by removing rocks, rake and thatch, loosen and pulverize....adding a fertilizer and rerake then add the seed (bluegrass, fescue and perenial rye mix) and lay hay...again, this will be my first lawn so any suggestions would be fantastic! thanks again

ICT Bill
05-06-2008, 01:38 PM
This may be more than you can do at this point in your career but rent a rock hound, for that much area you will need it. It attachs to the front of a bob cat and will do that much area, and leave it nice and fluffy, in a morning easy. You can seed and lay STRAW not hay, hay has lots of seeds, STRAW does not and be gone by soon after lunch.

Find out how much to rent or sub out the rock hound is and price according to material and labor costs

TIMELESS
05-06-2008, 06:34 PM
dont know how i make such stupid mistakes but the lawn is only about 7000sqft. still like the sound of the harley rake/rockhound idea...do i need to lay fertilizer between the prep and seeding? anything else i might have overlooked? you guys have been great, thanks!

ATVracer
05-06-2008, 09:36 PM
Don't put straw or any other cover on top the seed/soil. I've never had any luck with a cover.

BillyRgn
05-07-2008, 12:38 PM
This may be more than you can do at this point in your career but rent a rock hound, for that much area you will need it. It attachs to the front of a bob cat and will do that much area, and leave it nice and fluffy, in a morning easy. You can seed and lay STRAW not hay, hay has lots of seeds, STRAW does not and be gone by soon after lunch.

Find out how much to rent or sub out the rock hound is and price according to material and labor costs

i agree with you about the straw also, thats what i meant to say before. i use straw for all my seeding jobs. just a suggestion, try to get the straw with tack if it is available in your area, that is all i use. the tack is something they coat the straw with, so when it gets wet it sticks, and will not blow away, but it will also not affect the grass at all. the bags i buy cost about $13.00 and will cover 500 square feet.

TIMELESS
05-08-2008, 12:37 AM
Thank you to everyone...you guys have been instrumental in my education...cant tell you how much i appreciate it...i did decide to rent a harley rake and will be following the suggestions you have made...do any of you know where to find a good contract template?

Hissing Cobra
05-08-2008, 08:50 PM
Seeding in the springtime should never be done unless it's absolutely necessary. In your case, it's necessary!

That being said, you can either till the top few inches of soil and rake them smooth or if the soil is hardened up, you can rent a slice seeder and make your job easier. If it is a 7,000 square foot lawn and 90% or more of it is in the direct sunlight for most of the day, do not use a mix of seed that has a fescue seed in it (unless it's a turf type tall fescue). The reason? Fescue seeds are mainly "Shade" seeds. They grow much better in the shady areas and if planted in the direct sunlit areas, they will not be able to withstand the sun's harsh rays during the hot summer months - even if you're watering everyday. It'll be the first grass to turn brown! The Bluegrass/Ryegrass seed mix (without the fescue) is perfect for sunny lawns.

Because you're seeding in the springtime when Mother Nature is trying to grow her Crabgrass and Weed seeds, you'll need to buy a Starter Fertilizer that has Siduron mixed in with it. The Siduron is the active ingredient and will work to help stunt Crabgrass growth in the sunny areas. It will need to be applied at 3.5 week intervals until the lawn is full and thick. It's very expensive! However, it's the only product that you should use if you're planting in the springtime.

Watering is the most important thing that your customer can do and is probably the only thing that they can do to ensure the lawn's success. For newly seeded lawns, watering should be done 2 to 3 times per day - each section for 15 minutes each time it gets watered. Once the lawn is full and thick, the watering schedule can be adjusted.

Good luck!

humble1
05-08-2008, 09:35 PM
never built a lawn....new home owner wants me to reseed a lawn that never came up...not sure what i should be doing or charging....gonna grade, loosen and pulerize, fertilize...mill the top 1/2 in of soil then reseed...any help would be GREATLY appreciated

you know how everyone here says if your not licensed to apply pesticides then you shouldnt apply. If you arent familiar w/ how to renovate a lawn, call someone who has done alot and sub them out. ask for before and after pics of their jobs.

treemonkey
05-08-2008, 10:32 PM
Applying pesticides without a license is a legal issue, and with some, a skills/knowledge issue. Establishing a new lawn is a skills issue that does not require a degree in rocket science. Home owners do it all the time.


Ages, you are neglecting the most important knowledge resource available to you right in your own back yard: Cornell University.

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene1d01.html

Do that soil test to insure you are not doomed from the start. Contact some people to determine the best grass variety for your conditions. Make sure you have the contract issues resolved in case of failure.

Some luck is involved. I did a several acre job years ago and a HUGE rain storm 7 days later washed everything away! Spring is a bit more challenging also. Make sure your customer knows that.

Whitey4
05-08-2008, 11:18 PM
Some intersting opinions here, and one or two that surprised me. A failed seeding job indicates the need for a soil test for sure. From pH to lack of micros, many things can cause a renovation to fail. Knowing what shortcomings the soil has would be a good thing to know before attempting a job like this, after a failed seeding job.

The suggestion of not top dressing a reseeded lawn is one I disagree with. Erosion in the spring is a son of a *****, and seed on bare dirt is bound to run off with rain.... it will do that even when top dressed on dirt that isn't perfectly leveled. BTW, there is no such thing as perfectly leveled soil.

If it's a high end customer, and they demand success, I use Futerra rolls. Any good sod farm supply house has this. It's a fullt biodegradable "blanket" (no bad mulch like recycled newspaper) that is very erosion resisitant and makes for a good moisture retention advantage. A bit pricy at about $50 per 600 hundred sq ft, but very effective. Unlike straw, it never has to be removed, and has ZERO weed seeds.

If that isn't in the budget, at the very least, a 1/4 to 1/2" top dressing of Peat is my suggestion.

I like Cobras idea of two Siduron (Tupersan) apps, but would also do a total kill with glyphosate for additional weed control before tilling.