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jnjnlc
01-20-2000, 03:12 PM
I think I have seen this before but I was not able to find it. <p>How high do you typically cut? I thought I was cutting three inches but measured my blade and it was almost four. I think that is to high but it does yeild a great looking lawn. <p>Any suggestions.<p><p>----------<br>Jeff<br>

A CUT ABOVE
01-20-2000, 03:36 PM
Depends on what type of grass it is

HOMER
01-20-2000, 04:32 PM
THE RULE OF THIMB HERE IS TO CUT IT HIGH AND LET IT LIE! THE POINT HERE IS THE TALLER THE GRASS IS THE LONGER THE ROOT IS AND THE COOLER THE SOIL WILL STAY. THERE ARE RECOMMENDED CUTTING HEIGHTS FOR ALL GRASS TYPES BUT LEAVING IT TALL IS BEST FOR THE OVERALL APPEARANCE AND IT ALSO SHADES THE SOIL, THEREFORE PROHIBITING WEED GROWTH. I CUT ALL OF MINE AS TALL AS IT WILL GROW REMOVING ONLY THE TOP DURING THE GROWING PERIOD.

NeilG
01-20-2000, 04:43 PM
I agree, it all depends on the type of grass that is being grown. The warm season grasses will gererally do better at shorter cutting heights, 1 1/2 to 3&quot; (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede) When allowed to grow too tall, it puts a strain on the root system, making them work harder to maintain the taller growth. That is the case for the grass types that I have in my area. Others I am sure require different growing and cutting heights. <p>

Retro67
01-20-2000, 04:58 PM
I agree with the posts that state, essentially, to cut the grass as high as possible while maintaining a finished look. I experienced drought conditions in Central IL last season, and only lost one full weeks mowing because of the drought. Others in my area were doing nothing while I was cutting grass. Although there was a question in my mind about whether to cut or not sometimes, nobody complained. Much of my competition had no work then, because the lawns were dormant. I didn't have green, lush, beautiful grass, but it kept me working. I'm unfamiliar with the warm season grasses discussed, but my recommendation is go as high as possible, while still maintaining a nice finished look.<br>P.S. This year, I am changing my procedures and charging on a monthly basis. This way, I can still get paid during tough times, and can always do maintenance work at those accounts that don't need mowed. Bottom line, everyone needs to eat, rain or no. <p>John<br>

Cannonturf
01-20-2000, 05:21 PM
Here in minnesota most grasses are Blues,rye and fescue. 2.5 to 3 inches is the best overall height.Cutting promotes growth and if left to long the bottom of the blade will begin to turn yellow.It also doesnt allow sunlight to the new grasslings that are coming up.<br>One other thing that i've learned is,having it to long and you have a week of rain you have one hell of a mess to clean up.It's not to bad with a small residental but if you have 5 acres your profit just turned to a big negative.<br>I'm sure it's different all across the nation so what applies here might not there.<br>

Keith
01-20-2000, 07:24 PM
Here in Central Florida we pretty much have only St. Augustine and Bahia grasses. While there are several varieties of St. Augustine, Floratam is the most common we run into. In the spring we will cut some at 3 1/2 and most at 4. By the end of summer we are cutting most at 4 1/2. Mid to late summer is the heavy growing season. By that time they are growing 4-5 inches a week. Some will even be cut every 5 days or so. Mowing the heaviest growers up to 4 1/2 just looks better. I try to get most back to 4 inches in the fall, but if they don't look quite as good I will keep them at 4 1/2 til spring. Even the Bahia grass seems to do better cut high. We used to cut most of it at 2 1/2-3&quot;. Bahia is a blade destroyer, it should not even be considered grass. It grows even faster than St. Augustine when watered and fertilized on a regular basis. By the end of summer Bahia is pretty rough looking, it get overly thick (like wire) and yellowed. The best thing for it, is during a dry period, to turn off the sprinklers. If it is allowed to burn it will come back greener and more lush than ever. I have found that cutting it at 3 1/2&quot; seems to keep it from getting too thick and sticking with that level keeps weeds to a minimum during the cooler months.

Charles
01-21-2000, 03:59 AM
Around here I cut zoysia at 2-1/2&quot;. Fescue at 2&quot;. Centipeed at 1-1/2&quot;. Bermuda at 2&quot;. Sometimes if the customer request. I cut fescue higher than that

Eric ELM
01-21-2000, 06:11 AM
Around the Chicago area, we have bluegrass and fescues. I cut most lawns at 2 1/2 to 3 inches in the spring and fall, but during the hot months I cut from 4 to 5 inches to help hold the moisture. So far in my guest book on my website, nobody has said my lawns look bad and my customers are all happy, so I will continue to do it like this. The higher you cut during rapid growth, the more room there is for clippings to get hidden. If you cut at 2 inches when the grass is growing 4 to 6 inches a week, you have a mess like in the picture on page 7. <br><p>----------<br>&lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.prodigy.net/eric.erickson/index.html&quot;&gt;Eric@ELM&lt;/a&gt;<br>

Lazer
01-21-2000, 01:43 PM
Eric,<br>Of course is you were using an eXmark, you would have perfect results every time regardless of mowing height. :)<p>But seriously, Eric's got it right. We mow at 2.5&quot; in spring & fall and 3 or 3.5&quot; in the summer. One note on appearance: The larger the lawn area, the longer you can mow and still have it look nice. If you mow a large 2 acre open area, a 5&quot; HOC will look very nice, as in Eric's pages. On a 4,000 sq.ft. house lawn, it would look shaggy.

Eric ELM
01-21-2000, 02:40 PM
Lazer, if Exmark ever does happen to make a better mower than Dixie Chopper, I might change. :)<p>On the cutting tall, I should add that even on a big lawn, if it's thin, you can't cut them tall and make them look good. They have to be thick to make them look right cutting them over 3 inches.<br><p>----------<br>&lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.prodigy.net/eric.erickson/index.html&quot;&gt;Eric@ELM&lt;/a&gt;<br>

richard
01-21-2000, 08:34 PM
these last 2 weeks in seattle have had sun a couple days a week i mowed my rye lawns to about 1.5 inches- some with a reel a bit shorter.in the summer i'm at 3 on ryes and fescues. has anyone heard about dwarf ryes?

Charles
01-22-2000, 05:30 AM
I have been to Seattle a few times. I don't see how grass cutting gets done out there. I saw a lawn service company cutting grass. Having to stop reguraly and pick up wet clumps of grass. With all the rain and mist how do you guys make it? Just curious.

CLM1
01-22-2000, 08:01 AM
jnjnlc, read your post and Profile. Hello neighbor! All but one of my lawns are fescue. I have found that the same is true.... &quot;cut it high & let lie.&quot; Try to cut it as high as the owner/manager will allow. It helps build a stronger root system & keep weeds to a minimum also.As for bermuda I like it good and short.<br>We should get together and see if we could possibly help ea. other out in any way. What area are you in.<br>

jnjnlc
01-23-2000, 04:29 PM
Thanks to all for the great information. I most likely will stick to 3 to 4 inches because the lawns turn out great and the customers are happy. <p>Lazer. Do not have an Exmark but I do have the Toro. I am going to buy gator blades soon. I just bought the Toro in December and have not mowed with it much. I am anxious for spring so I can put it to the test.<p>Thanks again to all for the great info.<p><p>----------<br>Jeff<br>

Charles
01-23-2000, 05:22 PM
I have alot of customers tell me they want it cut short during the rainy times. So the yard will have to nice cut look close to the next time I get there. They have looked at me like I am cheating them when I cut it too high.

HOMER
01-23-2000, 06:31 PM
Charles, I have had similare experieinces with a few of mine. This is old school thinking because if the grass grows at the same rate, whether it is short or long, it will need cutting again to return it to that groomed appearance. If you leave it short the root system will always be shallow and close to the surface of the soil. The farther down the roots the cooler they will stay and closer to the their water source, which is in the cooler soil. Some of the older generation will be hard to convert but if you have any say in the matter, cut it high and let it lie!

HOMER
01-23-2000, 06:32 PM
Charles, I have had similare experieinces with a few of mine. This is old school thinking because if the grass grows at the same rate, whether it is short or long, it will need cutting again to return it to that groomed appearance. If you leave it short the root system will always be shallow and close to the surface of the soil. The farther down the roots the cooler they will stay and closer to the their water source, which is in the cooler soil. Some of the older generation will be hard to convert but if you have any say in the matter, cut it high and let it lie!

Lazer
01-23-2000, 07:27 PM
jnjnlc,<p>My experience with gator blades is:<br>They work awesome in spring and fall, but with summer mowing, they tend to cut a little &quot;stringy&quot; compared to oem blades. Toro will be offering a gator-type blade this year, but they also took the blade tip speed from 16,000 ft./min to 18,500 so that may make a difference, too.<p>