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JuddGA
05-28-2008, 05:12 PM
I know this forum is for the industry but I need some help. I cant have a service guy out and I need to fix this thing myself. It seems like I lost my controller in a lightning storm among some other things. But it doesnt have the type of damage that I saw in another post where everything was fried. I had a DSL filter go bad, my garge door opener stopped and the controller all went bad at the same time so it had to be the storm.

I tested the transformer and its putting out 29 volts so I think its OK. It should be 25 but I think 29 would be in range. So this means the controller itself is bad?

Question is, can I just buy a new unit, take the door and controller off and put it on the old one?

I took a close look at the controller and there seems to be no damage to it. Nothing fried, no burnt areas on the board. There is a smaller board right under the rain sensor switch that has three wires coming off it. 2 are soldered to the main board, the 3rd wire is not connected to the main board. I think these are power wires and one became unsoldered/broke. Anyone have an old one they can take a pic of so I can see where this is supposed to go?

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 05:37 PM
There are some Hunter pros on the forum & hopefully, they'll log on. Are you measuring
the output off the zone terminal strips? If so, the clock is working, or do you have a blank
screen? What color is the wire that's loose? Have you removed the battery & disconnected
the power for a while? Is there a inline fuse in that clock? Clocks should have their own dedicated
power source. Good luck, don't buy a fresh one until the guys respond.

Wet_Boots
05-28-2008, 05:50 PM
Reboot the controller, if you aren't seeing any power at the zone terminals. Download the ICC manual (http://www.hunterindustries.com/Resources/PDFs/Owners_Manuals/Domestic/lit237w.pdf) and read it through. Just remember that lightning doesn't have to fry a controller to end its existence, so don't be surprised if you now own a doorstop.

BrandonV
05-28-2008, 05:53 PM
I'm a hunter man, what's happening or what's not happening? also w/ an icc things might be fried but you won't notice it unless you looking inside the modules. You can however usually take them out and give them a sniff, if they smell burnt they probably are. You unfortunately could still have a host of problems, seeing you have an ICC clock you probably have several zones and there's a good change some of you're valves and god forbid wiring is fried as well. After a lighting strike there is usually a good deal of damage, and I'd recommend having a pro come out. You're insurance company WILL cover this.

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 06:20 PM
Nothing like the smell of a fried clock in the morning.

AI Inc
05-28-2008, 06:24 PM
Does your display say anything , or is it blank? If its works , turn a zone on and test the output at the screw for that zone.

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 06:26 PM
Does your display say anything , or is it blank? If its works , turn a zone on and test the output at the screw for that zone.

Looking for extra posts? Someone already asked that question. :hammerhead:

Wet_Boots
05-28-2008, 06:33 PM
Looking for extra posts? Someone already asked that question. :hammerhead:guy finally gets an avatar and he thinks he's all that

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 06:35 PM
Go listen to some Fred Neil records.

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 06:39 PM
guy finally gets an avatar and he thinks he's all that

Time to listen to your Fred Neil records.

JuddGA
05-28-2008, 07:04 PM
The controller does not light up at all. I have unplugged it and left it unplugged it for a while. I also had one zone come on that I could not shut off until I shut the water off, thats when I realized the controller was dead. This was actually a flush zone that back flushes the filter. Guess the solenoid was stuck.

yes I have about 20 zones and I just got it up and running a few weeks ago after 2 years of non use. I had one broken pipe and one valve/solenoid sticking that I cleaned and it seemed to have been working OK.

On the little board under the rain switch (on the backside, you have to pull the board out) there are 4 wires, one green, 2 yellow, one black. One of the yellows is not soldered. I thought it was three not four. So in hindsight this may not be the issue.

After typing all this I went and looked at it again. I plugged it and tried resetting it, with no luck. Then I pulled the main module up that gets the power off the transformer and connects to the display. It is fried, you can see the burn marks on it.

So can I get this module or should I just order a new unit and replace parts as needed?

Theres 3 more modules, should I pull them and see if they are toasted?

JuddGA
05-28-2008, 07:08 PM
You unfortunately could still have a host of problems, seeing you have an ICC clock you probably have several zones and there's a good change some of you're valves and god forbid wiring is fried as well. After a lighting strike there is usually a good deal of damage, and I'd recommend having a pro come out. You're insurance company WILL cover this.

Sweet, tons of damage.

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 07:12 PM
Sweet, tons of damage.

:::Quote from contractor:::

JuddGA
05-28-2008, 07:22 PM
:::Quote from contractor:::


I am not a contractor. Just a homeowner being sarcastic to myself.
I pulled the other modules, one is toast, one seems OK and the last one may be bad.

I guess best thing to do is order a new unit with new modules and just change everything? What would happen if I put a bad module back in?

I guess after I replace the controller, I can troubleshoot the valves.

Wet_Boots
05-28-2008, 07:27 PM
If insurance can pay for the repair, why bother? You might want to see if you have electrical continuity in your field wiring, since a new controller might not get you up and running.

Mike Leary
05-28-2008, 07:33 PM
Good point, buy a el cheapo clock, see if your field wiring & valves took a hit, too.

AI Inc
05-28-2008, 07:52 PM
Your insurance will cover it, Seeing everything else that got hit you are above your deductable. Get a contractor.

BrandonV
05-28-2008, 08:08 PM
yeah on the contractor, you're probably looking at replacing most of the soilnoids, maybe a pump start relay (though I think you said it came on) the entire clock (don't bother replacing modules, you also need a face plate it sounds like. When you install you're new one have a grounding rod installed, they do help. Have one installed at you're pump too if it's on a lake. Sorry but look at the bright side you get a new clock, and *cough* i think you're remote control got fried to. And did you say it was a *cough* ACC controller? One your next ACC you can get the extra flow moniter and also the lighting protected modules...:cool2:

http://www.hunterindustries.com/Images/Products/Controllers/ICC/icc_header.jpg
^what you have
http://www.hunterindustries.com/Images/Products/Controllers/ACC/acc_header.jpg
^What you "want"
http://www.hunterindustries.com/Images/Products/Controllers/ICR/icr_header.jpg
^christmas present

mowzum
05-28-2008, 08:10 PM
go here this is hunter corprate, the're great will reply usually within 24 hours have done me great many a times even sent me free riser seals when I had a batch of pgms that leaked after 1 year service and replaced 2 modules at no cost for a controller I had problems with http://www.hunterindustries.com/Support/Ask_Expert/default.htm

JuddGA
05-28-2008, 10:40 PM
Insurance wont be handling anything

To check continuity of the wires just meter across them at the control panel? Will the solenoids be normally closed? Yes I have a meter and know how to use it. I used to fix office equipment.

Anything showing open will indicate a problem?

Just curious why is the ACC better? I like the remotes but those seem to work on the ICC as well. I would go with the cheaper remotes, I think 450 feet would give me plenty of coverage. I think the system is already wired for a remote with the SmartPort.

Man that remote would have come in handy a few eeks ago :hammerhead:

My controller is dated from 1999. Doubt Hunter is going to offer me any freebies

bobw
05-28-2008, 10:44 PM
Time to listen to your Fred Neil records.

ooooo Fred Neil.... I'm all ears now.....

BrandonV
05-29-2008, 06:44 AM
Just curious why is the ACC better? I like the remotes but those seem to work on the ICC as well. I would go with the cheaper remotes, I think 450 feet would give me plenty of coverage. I think the system is already wired for a remote with the SmartPort.

it's just more expensive, and has more bells and whistles, you don't really need it though you can instead of seeing "station 1" you can type in a name for each zone like "front lft lawn" the ICC IMO is a great clock. I use them on most of my installs.