Habitat 4 Beneficial Microbes

[Smallaxe]

Does anyone have a formula for creating a lawn habitat where beneficial microbes would thrive and other less useful and/or disease organisms would just not compete well?

Other than a steady application of compost what things or practices would create a healthy lawn with healthy microbes?

[Kiril]

Other than a steady application of compost what things or practices would create a healthy lawn with healthy microbes?

A few off the top of my head.


limited traffic
proper water management
proper mow height
smart peripheral plantings

[Smallaxe]

I am beginning to think that proper water management would be irrigate 2 days on 2 or 3 days off for a total of 1/2 - 3/4 inches. The second day getting water deeper into the soft, moist ground, then a couple of days for the surface to dry and allow air to return to the root zone.

How dry should the grass (kbg, fescue) be b4 the next watering for optimum benefit for microbes?

[treegal1]

char, shade,different types of plants possibly Incorporated into the lawn, lawn enhancers???

[Kiril]

I am beginning to think that proper water management would be irrigate 2 days on 2 or 3 days off for a total of 1/2 - 3/4 inches. The second day getting water deeper into the soft, moist ground, then a couple of days for the surface to dry and allow air to return to the root zone.

How dry should the grass (kbg, fescue) be b4 the next watering for optimum benefit for microbes?

In my area and soils, summer watering for turf (fescue) at average temps (mid to upper 90's), every 3 days is sufficient in full sun. Shaded areas can be stretched to 4 days in some cases.

Put all your water on in 1 day. If you need soak times, then use the feature in the controller if it has it, or schedule multiple starts.

Optimum interval between waterings for each site is best determined using soil moisture tests and observations of indicator plants (in this case your turf).

My very general rule of thumb....if the surface of the soil isn't dry, then it is not time to water.

[Smallaxe]

The monsoons are apparently over now :) So I can start plugging various areas to check the soil moisture relying on irrigation. I understand it is a very general rule of thumb and the idea behind it. Thanks.

Is it generally true that - a soil that dries to the point of 'almost' stressing the grass b4 watering - will have better populations of beneficial microbes?

Would they be able to build a better soil structure in a soak/dry cycle? or is a steady moisture more desirable?

[Kiril]

Is it generally true that - a soil that dries to the point of 'almost' stressing the grass b4 watering - will have better populations of beneficial microbes?

There are too many other factors that contribute to microbial population density as soils dry to answer that question with a yes or no. If suppose if you look at only oxygen availability as soils dry, then I would say generally yes.

Would they be able to build a better soil structure in a soak/dry cycle? or is a steady moisture more desirable?

Once again, there are too many other factors involved here to give a simple yes/no answer. If you want to conserve water (as you should), this should not be a concern. In most areas, soils naturally go through wet and dry cycles. Also consider in your irrigated turf grass scenario, your soils are never really going to be "dry".

Problem with most irrigation systems is they are never scheduled correctly, nor are they designed properly. More often than not you find systems applying too much water in some areas, not enough in others, and almost all are either watering too deep or too shallow.

To determine how much water you should apply, find or pick a depth for your effective root zone and water to that depth + any leaching requirements if necessary. To determine your AE, you need a soil moisture meter (or some other method) of determining your irrigation depth once your soils reach field capacity after an irrigation event.

[Smallaxe]

So the general idea is that what is best for the grass is best for the microbes?
For the sake of beneficial microbes, we are able to get oxygen/water ratio sorted. It is now just a matter of food.

I do think the best way to irrigate for the sake of the lawn would be to max the field capacity then let it dry out. I think that is what you are saying :)

[Kiril]

So the general idea is that what is best for the grass is best for the microbes?

Basically, yes. Your trying to grow turf, not microbes. :)

For the sake of beneficial microbes, we are able to get oxygen/water ratio sorted. It is now just a matter of food.

Providing you allow your soils to dry to your AD, then you need not worry.

I do think the best way to irrigate for the sake of the lawn would be to max the field capacity then let it dry out. I think that is what you are saying :)

Best way to irrigate IMO is to water to the depth of your effective root zone, or the depth you would like your effective root zone to be at. I think for turf, a good value to shoot for generally in most soils is 6-10" for an effective root zone, however this will vary depending on soil conditions and turf variety.

[Smallaxe]

Basically, yes. Your trying to grow turf, not microbes. :)
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Actually, I am more interested in what it takes to optimize the habitat for beneficial microbes. The grass will be fine at any rate as long the disease microbes do not prevail.

I am beginning to understand how the little guys contribute to soil structure and am trying to figure out just how deep we can get that soil structure to go.

By definition: a perpetual application of CT or even Compost is NOT sustainable. Getting microbes to unlock nutrients deep in the soil and recycling efficiently - and - thrive in their own environment; means one step closer to a sustainable healthy environment for all plants.

We are on the same page with watering as far as plants are concerned :)
I am suspecting however, that a daily morning sprinkle on the plants and soil surface sets up a refreshment to the biology. I do that in my garden almost every day and it seems to help.

[Kiril]

The grass will be fine at any rate as long the disease microbes do not prevail.

The grass will be fine as long as it gets water and nutrients. The aerobic microbes will be fine as long as you don't maintain an anaerobic environment in the soil (eg. saturated soils) and you provide a food source. Remember, the goal here is to use the microbes to provide a natural source of nutrients for plant growth. To that end, provide organic matter and maintain your average soil moisture at or below field capacity and the rest will follow.

I am beginning to understand how the little guys contribute to soil structure and am trying to figure out just how deep we can get that soil structure to go.

I think a reasonable expectation would be as deep as you can maintain an aerobic environment that has all the other factors which are needed for microbial life (water, food, temperature, etc...). That being said, consider natural systems and where the majority of your organic matter is found.

By definition: a perpetual application of CT or even Compost is NOT sustainable. Getting microbes to unlock nutrients deep in the soil and recycling efficiently - and - thrive in their own environment; means one step closer to a sustainable healthy environment for all plants.

I think a better question you might ask yourself, are there any nutrients (organic matter) for the microbes to release (use) deep in the soil? I agree with your definition, which also serves to demonstrate the importance of developing regionally appropriate landscapes.

We are on the same page with watering as far as plants are concerned :) I am suspecting however, that a daily morning sprinkle on the plants and soil surface sets up a refreshment to the biology. I do that in my garden almost every day and it seems to help.

I don't think we are on the same page. If I were to do a daily irrigation in my soils (high clay content) two things would/could happen.

1) I would be left with constantly saturated soils that are not at all conducive to desired microbial life. This would also lead to shallow rooting.

2) Waste water since I would not be putting on enough to really do any good, and most of it would be lost to evaporation.

In sandy soils there may be a need for daily watering, but I can't stress enough the importance of soil moisture tests to determine if your irrigation scheduling is effective.

[Smallaxe]

I suppose the idea of wasting water would be an issue, but I was not talking about daily irrigation. I have one client that would cure anyone from that idea. Anyone except him, of course.

The idea is to supply a fresh watering to the stomates of the leaves, perhaps priming them for a long hot day, and also, to the surface of the soil, which may perkup the microherd and loosen the crust for that brief period.
Not enough to affect the roots at all. More like rinsing dust off a car.

[Smallaxe]

The grass will be fine as long as it gets water and nutrients. The aerobic microbes will be fine as long as you don't maintain an anaerobic environment in the soil (eg. saturated soils) and you provide a food source. Remember, the goal here is to use the microbes to provide a natural source of nutrients for plant growth. To that end, provide organic matter and maintain your average soil moisture at or below field capacity and the rest will follow.


Well said. It seems to be complicated for the fert and squirt mentality to grasp.

I think a reasonable expectation would be as deep as you can maintain an aerobic environment that has all the other factors which are needed for microbial life (water, food, temperature, etc...). That being said, consider natural systems and where the majority of your organic matter is found.

Natural systems here in the rolling hills of glacier land, typically means fertile valleys and less fertile hilltops. Organic matter reaching into the earth in the form of rotted tree roots and worms going 18" with their dens full of OM.
So perhaps you are saying the essential answer to the original question is: Provide an aerobic environment and proper OM and the beneficial organisms will fair better than the disease organisms.

Which leads me to another thought. Raw meals tend to rot on the lawn, tieing up nutrients, whereas compost is already rotted down releasing nutrients. Does this process unnecessarily risk harmful microbes from interferring?