Summer Fert when using organics?

[BostonBull]

I used an all organic fert in the spring, mid-april. I am wondering if I should put down another application this summer, or wait till the fall? All looks well, cept for a few small weeds, and natures little N makers (clover).

This is year #2 for me doing organics. It was a new lawn, and newly developed lot 2 years ago.

[JDUtah]

It is hard to say. How much N per 1,000 square feet have you put down so far this year? What type of fertilizer was it? That might help some folks direct accordingly. It's hard to say not being there though.

[BostonBull]

The fert was an 8-1-1, I forget the brand name, maybe Organic Way? I put down a 40lb bag over 3500 sq/ft.

Hope this helps!

[Smallaxe]

The idea of lbs. of N per K is a chemical fertilizer mindset. Building the soil as opposed to feeding the plant is what you want to focus on.

The soil may support enough biology to free up nutrients otherwise unavailable. AM Fungi for exa.
Organic material provides Cation Exchange sites for most all nutrients. If you blow the clippings back onto the lawn then in theory you are recycling the nutrients, so no need to add more.

N provokes the grass to produce lots of green growth. Middle of the hot summer - not a necessary thing, unless the client wants it. Another protective layer of compost will do much more in greening up the grass and establishing a great growing environment than anything else I have witnissed.

Don't worry about the amount per K... every little bit helps and just don't suffocate the gass with it.

[wallzwallz]

BostonBull, I would apply now. Have you tryed North Country fertilizers? Here is a link w/ Mass retailers:http://www.norganics.com/dealer.html#MA and here is there main page: http://www.norganics.com/ I have used the proGro 5-3-4 and the Natures Turf 8-1-9 w/ great results. I still use the N per K for fertilizing. I go by NOFA standards which prohibit more than 3 lbs N per K for the year, . I am doing .75 lbs per K each application 4 times a year.

[DeepGreenLawn]

what kind of lawn do you have? probably should go by wallz as he is probably from the same area.

[ICT Bill]

Paul Sachs is not only a great guy and great author but also has great products, North Country is the place to go especially if they are local.

Support your local people instead of the big chains, it really does make a difference

North Country has my vote, ask them about your program, they will talk your ear off and head you in the right direction

[Keegan]

I have been using North Country Organics for the past 5 years and have been pleased with the results. The past two years I have used either pro start or pro gro that has been VERY VERY dusty. So dusty that there was a cloud of dust when I left the property and my pants were COVERED in it not to mention the dust in my face. I've spoken with Paul each time and he told me they forgot to put the binder in (vegetable or corn oil, I think). I recently picked up 2 pallets, dusty again. I'm not sure if I will use them again.
I don't think they have quality control.
So far no problem with Natures Turf.

[ICT Bill]

There is also Rob Saunders with True Organics in Stamford CT, They stock our product and also stock Nutrients plus an organic based granular. Rob has a golf course background and is very knowledgable as far as turf and landscape goes.

These are the guys that supply Pepsico world headquarters that has been organic for over 2 years now with excellent results.

[wallzwallz]

Keegan, yes the pro-gro I used was very dusty and wouldn't flow well thru my spreader. My supplier just called last week to tell me they are aware of the problem and any Pro-gro from here out will be a new batch. I still have half a pallet left, I will use in the fall. The Natures Turf is great but a little pricey.

[BostonBull]

I shoud also mention that I did a soil soak with 5 lbs of BioPack last year. This is roughly 50 times the recommended application. I see it already this year. Still get some Mychorizzae mushrooms popping up here and there but I love em!

I am an Arborist by trade and this whole lawn thing is new to me. All help is much appreciated!

[ICT Bill]

Boston Bull,
Good for you on taking some first steps in natural ways to help trees and shrubs. One of the most interesting things about mycorrhizae is that they do not like rich soils, they actually do a much better job in soils that are lacking nutrients.

When soils are high in Phosphorous they kind of just hang out and collect a welfare check, they don't do much. When soils are lacking phos. they grow like mad and increase the root mass of the tree by 100's of percent.

Kind of counterintuitive, the myco and tree do best when not fertilized.

Trees also like a very fungal soil in most cases 100:1 fungal, old growth forests can be 1000:1 fungal. So you are definately going in the right direction. Just cut back on the nutrients injected when using mycorrhizae. So if you are going to use nutrients when injecting use fungal foods, like complex sugars (not molasses)

The above ground mushrooms are called "fruiting bodies" of the mycelia.

[BostonBull]

So how should I translate this into my lawn? Only use N when needed? How should I feed the Mychorizzae?

I was going to say fruiting bodies, as that is the terminology we usually use, but wasnt sure if Landscapers used as well? Oh well!