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View Full Version : Problem with DVF-100 Valves closing ---- Warning I rample a lot


Fordsuvparts
06-24-2008, 10:41 PM
First off this is the first complete system I have installed, and I am ready for the crap you guys dish out about being new at this, I am very thick skinned.
I follow all of the irrigation threads because, by far you guys know what you are talking about. I used several trick that i saw on the forum and they saved me a lot of time. Especially using 4 90's to fix my main line were it was cut in a narrow island bed were the pipe was curved slightly. Even the plumber thought that it was a good trick, I then tried to use 4 45's and it is a lot harder than it looks. I also learned not to use the blue wet or dry glue when it is 85 degrees out side, you don't have enough time to work with it.

I am working on installing a system that was designed by Rain bird and installed by my self and a few of my flunkies, and I came a cross a problem with the valves shutting all the way off. I can manually open all 6 of the valves but only four of them will shut off completely. There was a lot of crap in the lines before I installed the valves so I flushed them out the best I could. Every filter on the spray head was clogged so I took each one out and cleaned it and ran the water till it ran clear. ( by the way the electricians trenched through the beds and cut my main line and control wiring in three places and that let the lines get mud and crap in them.) When I temporarily hooked up water to the main line all the valves were off and did not leak, but after opening them and cleaning the nozzles 2 valves will not close, I tried flushing them but could not figure out how to get them to close. I am using 1812 12" pop up spray head with 12 and 15 van nozzles. This system is for the landscaping only. The main line is 2" PVC and drops down to 1 1/4" PVC half way. I will have to much pressure and will have to reduce it when the booster pump is tuned on on Friday. It has 6 zones with between 4-6 heads per zone. I will be core drilling through the wall of the hospital tomorrow morning so that the plumbers can hook up the back flow preventor and tap in to the system. I will have 60 to 65 PSI after the back flow. I will mount the controller tomorrow and then wait for the next week for the plumber to get too the change order the GC gave them to get me hooked up.

Thanks in advance guys.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-24-2008, 10:45 PM
I suddenly have tired head. I will answer tomorrow at 4 am.

DanaMac
06-24-2008, 10:48 PM
If there was junk in the valve, it may have damaged the diaphragm and they need replacing. It may have divots in the rubber that will not allow it to seal completely.

Dirty Water
06-24-2008, 11:22 PM
Take the DVF's apart. You probably have a rock stuck against the diaphragm.

Like dana, said, if its damaged, replace it.

This is an easy fix.

Kiril
06-25-2008, 12:53 AM
Ditto on both.

AI Inc
06-25-2008, 04:45 AM
Before even pulling anything apart , open the bleeders and the solonoid at the same time. This will flush them , if this does not work proceed as described above.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-25-2008, 05:10 AM
Still tired but Ditto..... on all above suggestions.

AI Inc
06-25-2008, 05:29 AM
Of course your tired , your an hr differance time zone and still on here as early as me.

FIMCO-MEISTER
06-25-2008, 05:31 AM
Of course your tired , your an hr differance time zone and still on here as early as me.

When I wake up not much I can do about it. Tramadol, coffee, ESPN, LS and I'm bursting to go by 6:30:dancing:

AI Inc
06-25-2008, 05:38 AM
In my younger days I used to roll out opf bed , straight to the shower and on the road. Now Im kinda like an old truck. I like to idle for a while before moving a whole lot. Pot of coffe, here for a bit , then stack my orders in route and Im finaly ready to go.

CAPT Stream Rotar
06-25-2008, 06:16 AM
good luck hoss..nice job on your first system.

Fordsuvparts
06-26-2008, 12:22 AM
Thanks everyone, I was able to get them to close after I unscrewed the bleeder. I got everything going correctly by turning the vales on manually, I won't have permanent power or water until next week. I had to try every thing because like i said this is my first time. I found out that laying out the heads is a lot harder than it looks. I fired up every zone and had good coverage in all but a spots. I moved a few heads left or right and fixed the problem. I will try and get a few pics of the finished landscaping beds.

Fordsuvparts
07-17-2008, 09:33 AM
We manually fired up this system yesterday and we have enough pressure to run all 6 zones at the same time and even then the heads are spraying way beyond there 15' arc. The whole system consist of 34 RB 1812 with 12' an 15' van nozzles. The problem is now that the hospital kicked on there booster pump, we have over 65 psi on a 2" main line and can easily run the entire system at one time and it over sprays on all of the sidewalks and the main drive to the entrance to the hospital. I got hit with a 2500$ debit for the plumbers to hook up the back-flow preventor and run 2" copper to tie in with our system, a little over 60' of 2" copper. My fix for now was to only open the ball valve about 1/3 of the way. I am going to fire up the controller on Monday but I made a mistake and wired each valve with a hot and a common all the way back to the controller and now I'm not sure how to tie all the commons together and not have any problems.

Kiril
07-17-2008, 09:37 AM
wired each valve with a hot and a common all the way back to the controller and now I'm not sure how to tie all the commons together and not have any problems.

Wire nut with pig tail works wonders.

irrig8r
07-17-2008, 10:04 AM
Remember next time to try to avoid getting dirt and rocks in the line as you assemble the system. Then flush the main quickly before you install your zone valves (you do have a shut off before each separate valve or manifold, right?) and then flush each line before you install filters and nozzles.

irrig8r
07-17-2008, 10:05 AM
Wire nut with pig tail works wonders.

Such sarcasm so early in the morning.... :)

Wet_Boots
07-17-2008, 10:13 AM
sarcasm is the breakfast of champions :weightlifter:

Dirty Water
07-17-2008, 11:06 AM
We manually fired up this system yesterday and we have enough pressure to run all 6 zones at the same time and even then the heads are spraying way beyond there 15' arc. The whole system consist of 34 RB 1812 with 12' an 15' van nozzles. The problem is now that the hospital kicked on there booster pump, we have over 65 psi on a 2" main line and can easily run the entire system at one time and it over sprays on all of the sidewalks and the main drive to the entrance to the hospital. I got hit with a 2500$ debit for the plumbers to hook up the back-flow preventor and run 2" copper to tie in with our system, a little over 60' of 2" copper. My fix for now was to only open the ball valve about 1/3 of the way. I am going to fire up the controller on Monday but I made a mistake and wired each valve with a hot and a common all the way back to the controller and now I'm not sure how to tie all the commons together and not have any problems.

Install a pressure reducer directly after the backflow.

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Watts-25AUB-Z3-rw-5732-3809.jpg

Wet_Boots
07-17-2008, 11:28 AM
Maybe install it before the backflow, if static pressure is high enough, and access is allowed.

Strictly working in the lawn sprinkler domain, you can use a pressure-regulating master valve, and spend less than a 2-inch brass PRV would cost.

AI Inc
07-17-2008, 01:51 PM
Maybe install it before the backflow, if static pressure is high enough, and access is allowed.

Strictly working in the lawn sprinkler domain, you can use a pressure-regulating master valve, and spend less than a 2-inch brass PRV would cost.

Thats my preffered method, if for no other reason then cost.

Waterit
07-17-2008, 05:25 PM
Thats my preffered method, if for no other reason then cost.

Looks prettier, too.:)