View Full Version : recommended flagstone thickness
07-15-2008, 08:04 PM
Hey guys, I'm putting in a flagstone patio in the next week or two and I'm just wondering what thickness you use. I thought an inch and a half would do, but the client was thinking I'd be using a 3 inch flag. Let me know your thoughts!
07-16-2008, 02:49 PM
I think if you order 2" it will vary between 1 1/2 to 3 in or so. At least that is what our local supplier delivers with large pieces.
07-16-2008, 06:03 PM
On dried laid apps at least 2", wet lay you can use 1-1.5"
07-16-2008, 09:35 PM
Ok thanks guys. Another question, I always try to lay them by just picking a choosing which one fits best.. I know that's the basics, but do you guys cut or break the stone as well just to make it fit better? If so, what's your techniques? I've seen a guy who scores a line with the edge of a hammer and then is able to break the stone right on that line! Seems tough to me though...
07-17-2008, 02:31 AM
Depends on the look you are going for, you can saw cut it to give precise lines, there is random, or you can cut with a chisel.
07-18-2008, 01:29 PM
Thickness is relative to size and application. I lay at a minimum 1 1/2" thick by 16" square as my smallest size pieces for patios. 2" is even better at that size as the weight will help it from shifting in a dry laid patio. Also when you start thinking about laying thicker material, remember that your square footage per ton is going down, and cost and labor are going up.
-average I use for estimating
-1 1/2" yields 100 square feet per ton
-3" yields 50 square feet per ton
Driveways need thicker stone and patios need minimum 1 1/2" stone. If you lay a good foundation with good drainage, you should have no problems with 1 1/2" material.
I lay a fairly bomber foundation with 4" drain pipes, 5" of 5/8" minus, and 1 1/2" of 1/4" minus. They drain well and don't move up here in the soggy North West.
Another thing is shop your material for the best quality, not best price! You will end up with more usable material, save money,l and a higher quality end product for your client that looks great in your portfolio. I purchase most of my material from a supplier that owns quarries and brings in consistent product for masons. They also happen to be reasonably priced.
In regards to shaping the stone, each stone is different. Most Quartzites we can shape realtively easy into what we need with high success. Slates I cut more as I don't like the torn edges afer chisel work. Basalt I use chisels unless it is too thick, then I cut with my demo saw. I try not to use sandstones up here...
Good Luck and have fun-
ANC Stone Creations
07-19-2008, 10:01 PM
Another way to fit pieces, 4" grinder with a diamond blade. Make sure you wear safety glasses and a dust mask anytime you are making dry cuts.
Use the grinder to cut and shape your pieces from the back, but make sure not to go all the way thru, then take your hammer and knock the piece off.
If you want the straight edge or cut looking edge, just cut all the way thru the material.
ANC Stone Creations
07-19-2008, 10:06 PM
Russ, are you shopping at American Stone up north?
I have used these guys many of times, great products and good prices and friendly staff.
Do you also do water features?
07-20-2008, 02:10 AM
Scrivanich Natural Stone.
They supply Lowes, and most of the big stone yards nationally for quartzites, and slate. I recently ordered 16 tons of stone for 700 square feet of patio and 90 square feet of retaining wall, and stairs. I know all my material will be what I need the first time, as this is not my first truck load of material from them.
I do like American Stone, I agree. I can have my material delivered to the residence, rent a fork lift for the morning, unload, and save a lot of money and time for the client. I am loyal to my referrals also as to where I buy my stone.
I do water features if they are creative and can be sculptural. When I put them in for clients I like to be able to rearrange the stone relationships so it is more dynamic, and not static. I do not do many because people don't often have the right space, or budget, or want me to bid one against a peer.
I have a sculpture background..... for better or worse. I found out, Art is like crime, it doesn't pay. At least not much. Unless you get into Public Art!
07-20-2008, 10:24 AM
overlay and cut straight through both pieces of stone and they'll fit perfect..........look at my "RWF" post just below and a few pages from the end to see a irregular wet lay i did...............forget scoring etc...........slow...........lay it, cut it and move on
07-21-2008, 10:18 PM
Thanks for the tips guys. Tthomas I find your method interesting.. Why do you cut through both as opposed to just overlapping and cutting just one though? Another question, what do you guys find is the best bedding material? I usually use chips and dust at 1 inch. I was thinking maybe 2 inch of bedding sand could be a better idea though..?
ANC Stone Creations
07-21-2008, 11:40 PM
If I understood you right.
I would use 3"-5" of 5/8"- and usually top that with 1"-2" of 1/4"- paver setting sand (depending on ground conditions) 5/8"- will cover about 140 sq ft per ton @ 2" deep before it is compacted.
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.