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View Full Version : Opinions on job i have done!


scenicexcellence
07-28-2008, 12:36 AM
I just finished this job there is still a bit of work left, as the pave company needs to finish their end.

I used approx.. 350 wallston blocks. 4 h x 12 w x 8 d

and used about 45 sq feet of 4 x 8 standard pavers

I do believe i under charged the job! i think i shouldve charged more. oh well done now! quick guesses of what you would charge. only thing i had to dig out was the satirs the wall areas were already excavated by the paving company.


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00036.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00035.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00040.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00041.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00037.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00033.jpg

let me know what you think!

bobhat
07-28-2008, 08:50 AM
How come you don't rock-face when you step down?

shovelracer
07-28-2008, 11:23 AM
Usually you would tell us how much you charged first. Then we can help you from there. I see miter cuts in the corners. Thats a no no.

senatorcongressman
07-28-2008, 12:19 PM
All steps should be the same height. The 2 courses in each step shouldn't have common bond lines.

My guess is ~$6k. But I still would have you back to re-do the corners, and the steps.

BTW what is that big post with the white drainage line?

bobhat
07-28-2008, 01:51 PM
Pretty sure it's the eavesdrop. Yeah but those mitre cuts are pretty ugly

scenicexcellence
07-28-2008, 02:45 PM
i glued the corners together with pl premium. and i only charged 3700 for this job which was way to low and was hurried to do the job. and the step down i don't do the rock face cause i don't think it looks clean. i wanted to do turn ins bu the customer didn't want to pay for it.

how would you suggest i do the corners? if they were curved in the corners would look better but the is the way they wanted the corners at 90 degree angles. if you have suggestions on how to do it better next time let me know i have another job coming up like this one.

and yes that is the eave there and the white tube is non perferated weeping tile. reason for no perferated is that then the walk way would not sag in the area.

KAT_Ayanami
07-28-2008, 04:26 PM
Omg... Omg.... Omg....

I am not the best with pavers or gravity walls.... but....

Why did you cut the corners instead of creating/buying some?

Where are the risers on the steps?? Did you use all landings???

Why is the "riser" on the step further out than the landing???????????? (probably because you used all landings)

Why are the steps joints aligned?

I am not going to even ask about geogrids and stuff...


You are just SO lucky the owner has no clue about this type of job... If not, you would be taking half of that work out.

Sometimes owner do not want to pay what the work is worth. If that is the case, then say: "Sir, I cannot do it for that price".

In my case, I rather not compromise the quality of my work for just making $3700.

But hey, Im not trying to bash on you.

This is only my opinion.

*trucewhiteflag*

scenicexcellence
07-28-2008, 07:07 PM
the wall is only 3 feet high and there are no corners that you can buy for this type of block. and yes every stair is basically a landing! geogrid is not required for only 3 feet high.

I would appreciate you to suggest some things rather than just tell me what is wrong. cannot fix anything if i don't know what to do to it.

Normally i would curve the corners at the stairs so it would look beter, but, this costs more! Also the retaining wall was put in earlier and then a week later the stairs were added. this was because i wasn't notified they wanted it all at the same time.

I don't remember why i did the joints in the stairs the way i did. Next time i will run it right through and split the joints.

I would really appreciate the help and not just the critics.

KAT_Ayanami
07-28-2008, 08:15 PM
You are right on that. My bad.

Now.

I am sure that there must be a corner piece that they sell. If not, you can chisel one to make a rough side finish. I do not know how possible it is on this collection, but I am SURE they must have a way, just contact the manufacturer.

Same for the steps. They must have a shorter piece that would work fine as a riser, alowing the landing to go a little further for the overhang.
If not, this should also be possible by chiseling.

Now, you never run a joint straight like that AT ALL. You must alternate the pieces like if they were blocks or bricks for them to tie correctly.

Finally (because I know what you are going to answer) If there is NO way to create corners nor steps (which is unlikely) select another collection to build. And if you want to use that one, and need to do it yourself, just charge for the extra time and pieces that might break.

Like I said before, if the owner does not want to pay for your work, then say: "I cannot do it for that price". And come up with another alternative (like timber).

And I do not know about the geogrid, that depends on the county, but the wall is taller than 30", so I am sure that they required some permit or something at least. The county will tell you what does it need to have.

I hope this was more helpful and less harming.

Kat.

zedosix
07-28-2008, 08:29 PM
Opinions are good, only you should of asked before you went ahead and did the job, rather than do the job and ask us what we think after its too late. Its likely one of your first jobs so given that its not bad, I don't think you over charged your customer because likely he will be spending money not to soon down the road to fix the water problems that will likely occur. Mitred corners are not cool, overlapping joints on the steps not cool either, and you should really watch your bond lines. Stand back once in a while and get a look at what your doing "from the curb". Don't mean to be mean, but you can learn from what the guys are telling you here. Your work will only get better as time goes on, and your estimating. Be cool.

ponyboy
07-28-2008, 08:46 PM
why would you draing the down spout there not run it till yhe end of the driveway among other questions and comments, did you give a warrenty? hopefully not longer than 1 year it looks you might be back after winter fixing it

McLandscapingInc
07-28-2008, 10:48 PM
i think you did alright for your first job, take everything these 18 year old kids say here with a grain of salt and you will be ok. Look into an NCMA and ICPI course if you plan on doing this stuff in the future. you can only go up from here

scenicexcellence
07-28-2008, 11:34 PM
this is the first stair job i have done! i have built retaining walls in the past, but never put stairs in. www.scenicexcellence.com that is my website. check it out. I am also looking at getting a small course or something. my main teaching is m dad he knows what he is doing! i didn't ask for help on this one but in the future i am sure i will turn to him for more questions. long distance charges are killer!

I appreciate the help people are giving me, but i don't appreciate critics that can point out whats wrong and cannot explain how to do it correctly. so unless there is something that you can prove you theories with just don't say anything!

I am 23 years old and i can honestly say i am confident that job will still be good in the spring. i do offer warranty for my work of 1 year. only within reason though.


My first wall was just over a year ago it was about 40 feet long and had alot of slope i had to work around. this is the picture here. this wall is still standing and nothing wrong with it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/111drivewaywalldifferentangle1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/111sidewallfrontfinished.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/222frontwallofhouseabout1footbackfr.jpg

I am very confident in my wall building it is the stairs where i need direction. i am going to be using a 14 inch tub saw from now on to make nicer cuts. i also will follow the general rule of splitting the stair blocks. The corners i am going to use a angle grinder to start a cut then chisel it off to rock face it. any other suggestions would be good.

also just so i know what you are talking about? what do you mean by fixing due to water damage. we had alot of rain i mean alot of rain since i have done this job and nothing has happened yet other than a bit of sand washing out. the drainage should be good as i used about 4 to 6 inches of road gravel under the wall as i did fill in behind wall with road gravel too. i also put 4 inches of road gravel under the landing and all stairs with about 3 inches of sand for the landing interlock. the white drainage pipe is there because of a reason. i am going back to extend the landing to a walkway to the sidewalk. the drainage will be continued at that time as for now it is draining away from the wall and not affecting anything.

scenicexcellence
07-28-2008, 11:40 PM
Opinions are good, only you should of asked before you went ahead and did the job, rather than do the job and ask us what we think after its too late. Its likely one of your first jobs so given that its not bad, I don't think you over charged your customer because likely he will be spending money not to soon down the road to fix the water problems that will likely occur. Mitred corners are not cool, overlapping joints on the steps not cool either, and you should really watch your bond lines. Stand back once in a while and get a look at what your doing "from the curb". Don't mean to be mean, but you can learn from what the guys are telling you here. Your work will only get better as time goes on, and your estimating. Be cool.


I didn't think i overcharged
I think i under charged i would like to get about 4700 for this job at least.
but being it was my first job i did price it accordingly.

KAT_Ayanami
07-29-2008, 12:42 PM
I appreciate the help people are giving me, but i don't appreciate critics that can point out whats wrong and cannot explain how to do it correctly. so unless there is something that you can prove you theories with just don't say anything!

also just so i know what you are talking about? what do you mean by fixing due to water damage. we had alot of rain i mean alot of rain since i have done this job and nothing has happened yet

1. You topic says: Opinions on job i have done!

That means either good or bad opinions. And does not imply that you want help back. Just an opinion.

If you would have said: Help with the job I have done! People would have been telling you how to correct instead of what you did wrong.

BTW, we do not need "proof" to show what we say. If we are talking about it is because we know about it. But you can do whatever you feel is right.


2. He does not mean water damage by itself, but probably damage when that water freezes on winter.
Water is the worst enemy of these projects. You should learn that.

Im 25 and I have done more than enough of this tedious jobs. You will learn eventually after 2 or 3. But nobody is attacking you here, so you shouldn't be so defensive.
I understand that you were expecting to be "praised", but there is a long way to go for that.

Take care.

*trucewhiteflag*

SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES
07-29-2008, 01:06 PM
I am going to say one thing. If you did not take the time to do a quality job because you underbid this job, then do the whole industry a favor and get off at the next exit. There are plenty of contractors already out there that don't know what they are doing and bid jobs just to "Steal" them away from real contractors. I am all about someone getting their feet wet, but get educated first and don't do it at the cost of a homeowner. if you bid a job incorrrectly, do it right and take the hit. It wasn't the customers fault you didn't have enough money in the job, so don't blame it on them by saying "they didn't want to pay for it." You sell the job correctly or you find another customer.

to end on a positive note, check in with NCMA and ICPI and start looking for some classes in your area and get educated and show us what you really can do with some skills...

scenicexcellence
07-29-2008, 01:07 PM
i dont' expect to be praised if i expected that i would not post up on a site where there are people that have nothing better to do than knock other people down. there are people out there that will help. but it should go without saying if you have an opinion on something that it is wrong you should at least point out what can be done to make it right.

Just because someone is talking about something doesn't mean they know what they are talking about.

I appreciate help! i wouldn't of posted it here if i thought it was perfect. i can't expect to do a perfect job on the first set of stairs i have ever done. DID YOU?

Anyways i don't need you telling me that what i was asking was to far from ordinary, because in my opinion if you have a critic answer at least you can do is back it up.

These boards are here to help people not to just put them down. Especialy when there is someone new to the industry you don't just knock them, you help.

SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES
07-29-2008, 01:14 PM
All those nice pics on your website and not a plate tamper in sight. that does not give me warm fuzzies.

SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES
07-29-2008, 01:19 PM
scenicexcellence: you will find that there are many compitent people on this website that will be glad to assist you with specific questions that you may have before you do the job. but you will also find many compitent people who get tired of sub par contractors coming on here looking for praise when they did a job that will cause a bad situation for the homeowner and frankly make us all look bad. Maybe next time you should do your research first and then if you don't understand something, start a forum labeled..."need help with..." instead of "Opinions on things i have done." because if you think about it, you got what you were looking for...Everyones opinion. GOOD DAY MATE!!!

scenicexcellence
07-29-2008, 01:31 PM
i rent tampers and other equipment. i don't have a place to store equipment right now.

The job was not underbid i did the job for the price we agreed upon. i do think though that i shouldve charged more. they wanted a job done, when i told them to get in a price range that they wanted there will be things done differently. i have another job coming up. i will do this job to what i think should be done and then i will post it here for everyone to pick it apart.

I don't like to bid jobs to steal them away as a matter of fact there was someone that bid the job 1000 dollars less then me.

I do believe the wall and stairs will still be standing in a years time. and still look the same it does now. i have already stated i am looking into courses for myself.

I do think that perfection comes with time and cannot do anything perfect the first time around. I am sure that i can go out to alot of jobs others have done and pick it apart as well. i just appreciate the help and will take the constructive help with me to the next job i do. As for the people that have bad comments and no help to go with it i will leave your comments behind.

Blmtlandscapes
07-29-2008, 05:20 PM
I'm also 23 years old and am just starting out doing some hardscaping projects, mostly walkways and patios. Obviously i'm not the most experienced either and I have plenty of stuff to learn as well, it looks to me though you have a pretty good head start. Just wanted to say remain positive and good luck!

scenicexcellence
07-29-2008, 06:13 PM
thank you for the support. hope everything works out for the good for you as well.

SOUTHERNGREENSCAPES
07-29-2008, 07:08 PM
scenicexcellence: i look forward to your learning and growing. you will find that many will alway pick apart your jobs. you could take one of the most experienced guys on this site and post there work and others could find stuff wrong with it. granted it will be pidly stuff like eaqual radius' and design attributes. That is a good thing when you think about it. when all they have to critque the little stuff, that normally means you have done a good job. Of course you got a bad run b/c a lot of the stuff you messed up on was what we would consider obvious mistakes. just watch your comments b/c we are all here to make money, but almost all of us pride ourselves on craftmanship and don't tollerate anything less.

Mike33
07-29-2008, 10:56 PM
If im reading right your from canada? I dont know current exchange rate but if you charged 3700 that would be 5k here since your products is usually higher. You heard postive and negative so im not going to waste either of our time on another opinion. The 1 wall i seen where the step downs turned back in yard be care ful there. I did that 12 years ago with ab not knowing about there ab lite for step downs. What happened after time i didnt have top layer compacted on turn ins and they settled. Dont sound like much but if that block settles 3/4" it looks like ****. Good luck to you in future and get some training from manuf. than get ncma cert. Btw your actual block work besides the steps arent that bad. Steps are time consuming and eat a lot of material.
mike

scenicexcellence
07-29-2008, 11:33 PM
thank you for the comments. i appreciate it very much. i now understand that the stairs require much more time then walls and should be charged accordingly.

Earthworks Landscaping
07-30-2008, 09:20 AM
I am going to say one thing. If you did not take the time to do a quality job because you underbid this job, then do the whole industry a favor and get off at the next exit. There are plenty of contractors already out there that don't know what they are doing and bid jobs just to "Steal" them away from real contractors. I am all about someone getting their feet wet, but get educated first and don't do it at the cost of a homeowner. if you bid a job incorrrectly, do it right and take the hit. It wasn't the customers fault you didn't have enough money in the job, so don't blame it on them by saying "they didn't want to pay for it." You sell the job correctly or you find another customer.

to end on a positive note, check in with NCMA and ICPI and start looking for some classes in your area and get educated and show us what you really can do with some skills...

Very well said!!

KAT_Ayanami
07-30-2008, 03:36 PM
I have never spend so much time with this type of topics, but since (I think) you are referring directly to me, let me break it down a little to you.


i can't expect to do a perfect job on the first set of stairs i have ever done. DID YOU?


You are not expected to do a PERFECT job. But you are expected to do a PROFESSIONAL job. And not what you did!


All those nice pics on your website and not a plate tamper in sight. that does not give me warm fuzzies.

Not to mention that the "before" picture is the picture with the excavation on the way, not the land before being touched.


The job was not underbid i did the job for the price we agreed upon. i do think though that i should've charged more.

That IS underbidding.


I do think that perfection comes with time and cannot do anything perfect the first time around.

And that is right. But NOT the way you do it!
Perfection comes with time and PRACTICE. That is why you are first a helper, then a mason, and then you have your own company!!!

You do NOT practice on somebody's property! Specially if we are talking about structural projects such a gravity wall!!!


Take it the way you want it. Ignore it, answer it, or do whatever you want. But at least get the point:

Learn from somebody and read about how to do a project it BEFORE doing it! A homeowner does not deserve to have a bad quality project or get injured just because you are starting on the business.

Sorry if you find my critics destructive and not constructive, but I did already told you how to fix it next time. Now, like I said, do whatever you want.

YardPro
07-30-2008, 07:22 PM
the title of your thread said you want opinions.....

you are young and know everything, so my opinion (18 years experience) won't matter at all.....

I think the job overall looks like a homeowner did the work.
the paver walk at the top had dips and crowns and is not flat,
the bottom stair is not straight, the miter cuts are for wood, not retaining walls.....

i would use these pictures for MY company when selling to a perspective client as examples of the problems you get when you hire inexperienced contractors to perform the work....
Pictures of work like this are the best tool i have ever found for selling new customers on why I AM MORE EXPENSIVE.....
I always tell them that they won't have to pay me to learn how to do the work....

scenicexcellence
07-30-2008, 08:43 PM
well thanks to everyone with your opinions. your opinion is exactly that your opinion. some good some bad. i have what i need now to do it correct the next time. so if there is anything else somebody can HELP with then go ahead, otherwise stop hunting me please!

Also if i ever see anybody using one of my pictures i would sue for it. the pictures are mine and only mine. so with 18 years experience you should know that you cannot just take pictures like that.

By all means if you use pictures of jobs you had fixed due to people not doing it correctly then go ahead. I wouldn't imagine using my picture would be the greatest idea.

cjg333
07-30-2008, 09:29 PM
Hey just read through all the opinions etc. And I just thought that I would put my 2 cents in. I think I read in one of your posts that you used 4 to 6 inches of road gravel under the stairs wall and walk. Well the good news you did use some gravel (lots of newbies don't use any) the bad news you should use 8 to 12 inches. and 6 inches past the bricks too not just directlyl under them. I wont go over the other things they are pretty minor. But I cant help but notice that all of your steps are not equal risers, That is a big no no (building code)

Mike33
07-30-2008, 09:58 PM
Also if i ever see anybody using one of my pictures i would sue for it. the pictures are mine and only mine. so with 18 years experience you should know that you cannot just take pictures like that.

By all means if you use pictures of jobs you had fixed due to people not doing it correctly then go ahead. I wouldn't imagine using my picture would be the greatest idea.[/QUOTE]

I have many pics like yours i show and not a thing you can do about it. I was being polite earlier, but now you opened the door. I think your job is bad and a disgrace to the industry. I never layed pavers before but guess where i learned. At my own house, not some one paying for my lessons then thinking all paver jobs suck. Talk about suing, you might feel the heat soon if someone gets hurt on those steps. :hammerhead: Many of us put food on the table hardscaping and have to convince h/o these systems due work even though there are some nuckleheads out there doing it wrong. Yes i had to learn the trade like every one else but not in your manner. If your going to play in our world learn to take the heat like a man. All of the comments posted here that hurt your feelings was some damn good advise, suck it up and move on.
Mike

theWRIGHTcut
07-31-2008, 12:03 PM
i won't bust your balls i think thats a sweet project you did... everything seems to flush nicely from what i can see

PaperCutter
07-31-2008, 12:30 PM
http://www.iccsafe.org/

Call your local building & zoning office and they'll be able to tell you what codes they follow- I know a lot of stuff here is based on the IBC, but I've had to show tables from the Virginia Construction Code when getting deck permits.

Don't be afraid to spend a little extra and at least have your design reviewed by a good designer or experienced hardscape guy. The varying riser heights is a big deal- I knew a guy who ended up in a battle with a homeowner who claimed she severely injured her back walking down the stairs, because it went from a 7" riser to a 4" riser at the end. Most codes require risers to be within 3/8" of each other because when descending a staircase, we don't examine each step. We just assume they're all the same.

Even if you don't get a call from the homeowner, I'd recommend keeping an eye on the job and fixing it if it doesn't hold up properly. It sucks, but you'll look like a hero. To be honest, if you have the time and ability to fix the steps now, I'd just do it. Those varying riser heights make me pretty uncomfortable.

scenicexcellence
07-31-2008, 03:25 PM
thank you!

scenicexcellence
07-31-2008, 03:28 PM
I am going to go get the building code book right now and also i am still looking into the courses, I am designing a job right now and i would post it here but afraid to many will critic it rather than help me. i am going to my supplier with the plan and getting help from them.

LB1234
07-31-2008, 05:38 PM
I would appreciate you to suggest some things rather than just tell me what is wrong. cannot fix anything if i don't know what to do to it.

I would really appreciate the help and not just the critics.

Take everthing out and start over with a proper base. Looks as if that thing is settling already.

PerfectEarth
07-31-2008, 08:02 PM
I don't do hardscapes, but I can tell that wall is sub-par by the pics alone...

This is the problem with our industry- including lawncare, landscaping and hardscapes... people think they can jump right in with little or no knowledge and immediately become pros.... GO WORK FOR A REPUTABLE COMPANY!!! learn on the job, take your experience and know-how and THEN go start your business once you are confident with your skills. It took me 9 years in landscape to even be confident enough to tear out a front yard and install a new landscape.... you have to be reliable and honest with your customers AND yourself.

Good luck with your business, but really- learn before you do. You wouldn't hire an electrician, plumber or mechanic who was learning on the job, would you??

senatorcongressman
08-01-2008, 05:06 PM
I am going to go get the building code book right now and also i am still looking into the courses, I am designing a job right now and i would post it here but afraid to many will critic it rather than help me. i am going to my supplier with the plan and getting help from them.

I have a couple of honest questions for you, don't be shy...

1) When you posted those pictures up here, how did you feel about the job you did?

2) Did your opinion of of that change after the critique you received here?

3) Would you hire someone to do work on your home who was "learning on the go" or getting his lessons from the hard knocks school of an internet forum critique?



I will refrain from critiquing your website but I think this quote about sums it up...

"Here at Scenic Excellence, we do things right, if there is a chance for Excellence we will be able to obtain that. We can create many arrays of excellence for your landscaping needs."

scenicexcellence
08-01-2008, 06:21 PM
I can honestly say the job looks fine in person. the home owner and alot of people walking around like the job i did. i understand there are some areas were the job would need a bit of improvement.

I have actually thought about fixing those areas after my next job.

I do understand everyone has good or bad opinions. i am taking them all in and yes in a little way the critique on this thread made me think alot about doing things differently.

I am confident in my wall building skills.

As for my stairs building skills, I have taken a small one day course about building the stairs. Since i have done this job. i do know now some mistakes i have done.

two things i would change and will probably change in the near future wether or not it holds up. are the corners i agree onehundred percent that if i rock face the ends and striaghten the corners out with those instead of 45 degree cuts it will add to the job. Also i would like to change the way the stairs are layed out i am thinking of going back and removing the top coping and redoing the coping so it splits the seems.

I have learned a bit from the critique i have recieved on this job and i do honestly think that i could build the stairs alot better on my next set.

zedosix
08-01-2008, 06:54 PM
Good stuff. Now your catching on. Were a tough crowd but not tolerant of bad work.

scenicexcellence
08-01-2008, 07:48 PM
i have a design drawn up of the job i have coming up i am having it reviewed by a couple people for me. it is a fair size job.

4250 block
4"x12"x8" and 4"x12"x16"
H x L x D H x L x D

There are three sets of stairs

one set 9 foot run and 6 feet high 8 inch steps with 1' tread depth 9 stairs

one set 3 foot run and 2 feet high 8 inch steps with 1' tread depth 3 stairs

one set 6 foot run and 4 feet high 8 inch steps with 1' tread depth 6 stairs

I will be making these as stairs not as landings

one wall 110 foot long 4 feet high

one wall 120 foot long 4 feet high

one patio surround 25' by 15' by 1' high (i am not doing the patio stones as they are getting stamped concrete)

one patio surround 12' by 20' by 2' high (same as first patio for the stones)

I have to clear out the whole hill of debris and weeds. The hill will take 3 days to clean up and prep for wall trenches and patios

still pricing the job for them. i have an idea of what i am charging but want to go over the numbers a few more times.

scenicexcellence
08-01-2008, 07:51 PM
Also there will be three arbors one over top of each set of stairs. Made from cedar wood!

could i make the arbors from pressure treated? they have small kids and have been told pressure treated is no good for them to be around.

If you have anything that could help me with this job, if i end end up getting it, send it on over thanks alot for the help.

bobhat
08-01-2008, 09:52 PM
Hello there I am also from Ontario Canada.

Id like to just take a stab at the brick you selected. No idea what it is but you should think about using Permacon or UNILock for your steps. they are probably more expensive than that POS, but it will look way better. A
http://www.permacon.ca/uimages/products/Vintage1152646996.jpg

www.permacon.ca

scenicexcellence
08-01-2008, 10:57 PM
Hello there I am also from Ontario Canada.

Id like to just take a stab at the brick you selected. No idea what it is but you should think about using Permacon or UNILock for your steps. they are probably more expensive than that POS, but it will look way better. A
http://www.permacon.ca/uimages/products/Vintage1152646996.jpg

www.permacon.ca


I will be using hanson wallstone. And for the steps i will be using for the tread hanson xl pro wallstone coping 4x18x12

zedosix
08-02-2008, 08:58 AM
Hello there I am also from Ontario Canada.

Id like to just take a stab at the brick you selected. No idea what it is but you should think about using Permacon or UNILock for your steps. they are probably more expensive than that POS, but it will look way better. A
http://www.permacon.ca/uimages/products/Vintage1152646996.jpg

www.permacon.ca


Stay away from large walls with "celtik" block, its a pita to work with and doesn't stand up well with our winter climate. Best bet for a large no hassle wall is the pisa stone or roman pisa from unilock. Permacon calls it "vintage" and its basically the same material.

CrimsonLawnCare
08-02-2008, 09:39 AM
We use alan block for the walls my company builds, i will have to post a picture of the 135 foot wall we just built out of alan blocks Jumbo Jr's. The block is really great.

scenicexcellence
08-02-2008, 11:59 AM
Check out my other thread about the design of this project. i have a picture of what the end result will look like.

Mike33
08-03-2008, 07:35 PM
We use alan block for the walls my company builds, i will have to post a picture of the 135 foot wall we just built out of alan blocks Jumbo Jr's. The block is really great.

What do you think of alan block's new cap being only 12" instead of the old 18" i actually quit using there product do to this. Job looks bad with the 12" cap.
mike