View Full Version : Burned Hydrangea

08-30-2008, 11:05 AM
OK, I don't know about the spelling for Hydrangea, but you get the idea.

I was treating a lawn yesterday and just stopped to look at the bushes to make sure they were all good and not bugs/diseases.

I found the hydrangeas, one group was bad, a nother group was getting there, had these what I would describe as burn spots. They looked just like someone took a lighter and held it under neath and made a burned circle, not all the way through, but just enough to get it black. Any thoughts? I didn't have my camera and the only thing I saw bug wise were these shiny green "flies" everywhere. Are they the culprit or is this a disease? Some spots were holes but most looked similar to a cigarette burn on a couch?

08-30-2008, 11:35 AM
Fungal would be my guess -> Anthracnose


08-30-2008, 11:51 AM
GREAT JOB! That is excatly what it looks like...

Regular fungicide take care of this such as NPP?

08-30-2008, 01:52 PM

are they getting irrigated? too much maybe or wet leaves at night? hows the soil?
or maybe insect damage?
chitosan would not hurt i don't think? give it a try, maybe fertilize too

need picture

08-30-2008, 01:56 PM
yeah, they are irrigated, there is a group that is a bad and a group that is just starting to be effected. Not bad though... this pic from the site kiril is basically identical to what I have seen other than the outer edge of the leaf. The spots are perfect...

ICT Bill
08-30-2008, 02:16 PM
Anthracnose is one tough customer, we have had good responses from several trees (lilacs, dogwoods, crab apple) with the NPP. It elicits a SAR (systemic applied Resistance) response from the tree, often it will drop some leaves from the application, basically it puts the defense systems of the tree on high alert and begins producing hormones to protect it self

Long term I am not sure how much you can do but try to keep an eye on them and provide help on a "as needed" basis. Good cultural practices are paramount to help the plant and try to get rid of the disease

Anthracnose is wiping out all of the dogwoods in the mid atlantic, one DNR guy I talked to said in 20 years there will be no more dogwoods in the mid atlantic because of it. It is one tough cookie to deal with, often you have to pull the plant and start over

I know it has taken about 15 in the woods in my back yard

08-30-2008, 02:19 PM
Keep it out of my area! Dogwoods are my favorite! Well, tied with cherries...

ICT Bill
08-30-2008, 02:21 PM
My assumption on how it got there, if in fact that is what it is, is your 2 years of drought in your area and then all of a sudden you get 3 days of rain, lots of rain, it is the perfect set up for the stuff.

Stressed plant and 3 days of rain, bingo

You may have to pull a chemical trigger on this one. I am sure you will see more fungal pressure in others yards, the scenario is perfect for it. Almost the same story up here in the mid atlantic

08-30-2008, 02:32 PM
yeah, I just treated for fungus, me and a buddy were having a "discussion" of whether a fungus was really a fungus or just a lack of water/fert, etc. Well... I treated it like a fungus, dollar spot to be exact... and I found a neighbor with the same fungus in question. I actually talked with the neighbor to let them know that they had a fungus and they said they used TG, well... the yard I treated is back to normal, the neighbor, those "orangish" spots that I found to be the early stages of DS are not bleached white like some customers I have that I got to too late, ie, it was there when I got there. But those are starting to come back too, slowly, but they are coming back...

as for the neighbor... I will be stopping by again to talk with them and see how they are liking their current service. :D

08-30-2008, 05:56 PM
dipotassium salts, phosphonite, then tea the heck out of it.

08-30-2008, 05:58 PM
I need to get a brewer up and running, then get some worms and get my own tea going. I think this is my biggest crutch to a great landscape.

couple of the simple 5 gal brewers work for now you think? Just something to get going now until we can get something more detailed?

08-30-2008, 06:17 PM
oh lord help me....... just save up some $$ and get one set up the correct way first time and its over, I dont see a squirt gun in the spot that that c 200 sits in?? same thing..... if you need to use jar tea(imo not the best) do that till winter and we can put your brewer together on the shores of the biggest lake you ever want to see, we have parrots live in the trees of the farm palms for miles and tropical wonders your eyes will swell to!!! whats the season end there again, i tried to forget......... so tell again please???

08-30-2008, 06:25 PM
hey dont get me wrong but if you want to mother along a small brewer thats cool I did that once or 3 times maybe, oh yes thats the pain in my ........ just get one good one going, day one sat you chuck all you stuff in the tank and let it rip, mon, you look at the glass and tank up, water whats left down some and go!! tues tank out the last of the brew. clean the tank and set the new brew to go, thur and fri you have tea, maybe with a larger brewer you can get 3 days per brew? we run tea day and night, save us 40$ per acre or so to diy the stuff.

08-30-2008, 07:04 PM
lol... that is what I was thinking with the 5 gal until we can get one set up this winter... my last treatment will be octoberish? along with aeration and seeding... and then the new project that I talked to you about earlier... mentioned rather... but I am sure I will be able to take a week off for a vacation at some time.

But then again I didn't expect to have much to do this past week and I worked a full day everyday, came up with a sheet full of things to do next week too. If this keeps it up I don't see ever taking a day off, and not have things I should be doing...

08-30-2008, 07:10 PM
so hire on some part time help??? or a full time guy, I dont know, put some one to work, with the cost saving in materials you should have a job for some one???

08-30-2008, 07:20 PM
I got a guy that should be here in a week or two? But even then with the fall season coming, aerations, overseeding, treatments, estimates, and then throw the new adventure on top...

Want a job? lol

And I thought this would be my slow time. HA!

08-31-2008, 09:44 AM
With mounding type perennials that become infected with any type of fungus - it may be helpful to pull or cut away the worst of the infected stalks and burn them. Each following year it becomes less of an issue.
Hydrangeas are very subject to heat and water stress and therefore become more susceptible to diseases. Soak don't sprinkle if at all possible. Strong growing, healthy plants usually don't need much help with medicines.

Compostwerks LLC
09-01-2008, 06:34 AM
With mounding type perennials that become infected with any type of fungus - it may be helpful to pull or cut away the worst of the infected stalks and burn them. Each following year it becomes less of an issue.
Hydrangeas are very subject to heat and water stress and therefore become more susceptible to diseases. Soak don't sprinkle if at all possible. Strong growing, healthy plants usually don't need much help with medicines.

I agree. Sanitation is overlooked too often for sure. You are also correct about drought stress on Hydrangea.

Overhead irrigation is definitely a no no in this case. Drip would be a better option. If overhead is the only option, infrequent deep waterings are best.

Deepgreenlawn, are these new plants? I ask this because I have seen this disease mostly in greenhouse situations. Maybe it's your long humid season in GA that is the culprit.

Anyhow. it looks like the picture of the leaf you posted is still able function. Photosynthesis is alive and well in the undamaged parts of the leaf.

When the leaves drop, do a careful job of getting them off the property. Make some compost with them!


09-01-2008, 06:54 AM

is it ok to compost diseased materials?

Compostwerks LLC
09-01-2008, 07:08 AM
I believe that it's fine if you reach the right temps for enough time.

09-01-2008, 07:36 AM
do you know at what temps and for how long should be sufficient if lets say you started a pile containing a large majority of diseased materials, compared to a pile with barely any diseased materials?

i would think you would not what much if any diseased material for a good safe compost. for tea anyway
i would like to see the differences between final products under a scope

i saw your site,you guys look like you are making some nice product, i like when people take pride in their work!

09-01-2008, 09:26 AM
most pathogens will die off at 150 F, some others may not or there spores may live on, the stuff DGL has is fine to compost real hot, also worms will clean up any left overs. down here we have one palm pathogen that is a real hard customer, its called Ganoderma, this has to be burned to sterilize it

09-01-2008, 09:35 AM
nothing about the landscape tells me that the plants are new... just like someone said though... we went without rain for a LONG time and then got drenched, so that I am sure was the cause, fungus is taking hold again too on a lot of lawns.

Just one thing after another it seems...