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View Full Version : Got a Scag walkbehind---Problems. help.


DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 11:56 AM
ok, as most of you know, i just had a 2008 52" toro ZTR that had cutting issues. so i got a refund on it and then found this scag walkbehind for $2000.

Its a Scag SWZ Hydro Walkbehind 17hp KAW 52" Fixed deck, with a sit down attachment, which sucks... so im looking for a sulky now....

1st ...its not cutting right. it leaves pushed over, some what cut grass in the middle of the 52" swath. The thicker the grass i get into, the worse it gets.
I have sharp blades on there. I tightened the belts and idler pulleys, but it still leaves the grass.

2nd... I cant figure out how to measure the hydro oil in it. its just a big black resevoir directly under the controls, and it has no measuring stick or anything.

I want to make sure that i have enough in there. what do i do?

Last but not least.... CAN I put a VELOCITY PLUS deck on this mower???

Because, that would solve all my cutting problems..:weightlifter::usflag:

Thanks, and ill get pics up later if anyone wants them..

Icepuck72
09-14-2008, 11:59 AM
Are you not testing these out before you buy them?

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 12:36 PM
the mower is used and i bought it from a car dealer with no grass! he wouldnt let me take it anywhere to cut with it. i was desperate for a mower. so i had to buy it.

MileHigh
09-14-2008, 12:37 PM
Let me get this right..

You traded in your Toro ZTR for a scag WB with a fixed deck?

MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE
09-14-2008, 12:47 PM
No,toro refund his money,post us a pic so we can help,as for the hydro it should have a brass tube in the tank?

Icepuck72
09-14-2008, 01:08 PM
the mower is used and i bought it from a car dealer with no grass! he wouldnt let me take it anywhere to cut with it. i was desperate for a mower. so i had to buy it.

I hate to be a jerk about it but you almost deserve what you're getting. How are you going to buy something without even testing it out.....and on top of that red flags should go up if the seller won't let you test drive/cut it.

That's like going to a car dealer and them not letting you drive it before you buy it.:confused::confused::confused:

stevenf
09-14-2008, 01:13 PM
Check the pitch/tilt in the the deck. The back of the blade should cut what the front blade misses. Are they set on two different heights?

Daily Lawn/Landscape
09-14-2008, 01:20 PM
As far as the hydro level, it should have a metal tube in the reseviour and the fluid should be at the bottom of the tube. As far as the cut, what deck does it have on it. If it is the advantage deck you need to use some high lift blades. I run double blades on when this becomes a problem for me.
Hope this helps.
James

Daily Lawn/Landscape
09-14-2008, 01:22 PM
Check the pitch/tilt in the the deck. The back of the blade should cut what the front blade misses. Are they set on two different heights?

The front of the deck cuts not the rear. Deck should be pitched to the front.

MTR999
09-14-2008, 01:48 PM
spent 2k without testing the product first? wow...

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 01:57 PM
i ran the mower for a solid 5 minutes and engaged the blades and checked the deck and blah blah.

the car dealer guy was not the original owner.

so can you please stop bashing me, i just need some help. is that too much to ask????? please tell me if it is.

toro refunded my money. i went out and bought another mower, because i didnt have one.

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 02:13 PM
pics......................

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 02:19 PM
pics..........................

ronniez71
09-14-2008, 02:35 PM
I havethe 52 swzu floating deck. The 17hp really isnt enough for the 52! I run standard blades 2 on the inside and a high lift on the end plus adjust rpm up just alittle!

jkilov
09-14-2008, 02:35 PM
Looks like a decent mower for $2k to me. Though at 52" and above a floating deck is desirable.

You sure it's not just the center blade slipping? Or any oil or dirt on the center pulley or something. Take the deck cover off and run it. Watch the center spindle and pulley for slippage.

The deck pitch looks OK, at least from what I can tell from the pic. Bit more to the front perhaps.
Oh and there's a little sticker on the hydro tank telling you : Look in your owners manual.

heritage
09-14-2008, 02:40 PM
pics..........................

By the look of pic #2, the front of deck is lower (Pitch) than the back.

Get your ruler and add spacers under front castor wheels until deck is level (scag cuts best level). 3 or 4 will do it.

THEN add spacers from upper blade bolts to bottom between blade and spindles until 1/4 -1/2 between the bottom of deck and the blade tip.

Buy High Lift Blades....Scags oR Gator Magnum Hi Lifts.


If you want to keep the best cut in thick lawns and you change mowing heights, keep deck level and change engine mount to deck bolts AND castor wheel spacers, keeping deck level.

This is somewhat labor intensive BUT will give you the results you want.

Pete

KCfireman
09-14-2008, 03:02 PM
By the look of pic #2, the front of deck is lower (Pitch) than the back.

Get your ruler and add spacers under front castor wheels until deck is level (scag cuts best level). 3 or 4 will do it.

THEN add spacers from upper blade bolts to bottom between blade and spindles until 1/4 -1/2 between the bottom of deck and the blade tip.

Buy High Lift Blades....Scags oR Gator Magnum Hi Lifts.


If you want to keep the best cut in thick lawns and you change mowing heights, keep deck level and change engine mount to deck bolts AND castor wheel spacers, keeping deck level.

This is somewhat labor intensive BUT will give you the results you want.

Petei think you might be on to something. It does look higher in the back and lower in the front.

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 03:20 PM
ok, i got the deck level at 3.75" by adding one 1/2inch washer to each caster wheel and at like 3.5" cutting height. the problem is still there, but has improved. a lot better cutting than yesterday.

so, should i add another washer up front and then and spacer to the blades to keep them at around 3.5"....so that the deck will be around 4....???


Thanks for all the help so far.

Two Seasons
09-14-2008, 03:52 PM
After looking at your second set of photos, it appears there is too much hydro oil in the res., and when hot, overflows.

I'd take the current blades that are installed down to the local Scag dealer and compare them with Scag marbain blades and make sure the length is correct. We only use Scag marbain blades and our cuts are awesome!

I'd like to concur with another poster that it could be a slipping belt that is causing some stringers after you cut.

dmaxman
09-14-2008, 07:45 PM
That's the deck they used before the Advantage deck. And I doubt you could drop in a V+ without significant modifications.

oakwdman
09-14-2008, 08:07 PM
I think that if you really want the velocity plus, just sell this and go buy one. Don't even bother with the swap.

capnsac
09-14-2008, 08:22 PM
Possibly the problem could be the wrong size blades to begin with. I remember that my dealer gave me 20 3/4" blades when what I needed was 21" blades. That was for my 60" deck. There were stragglers all over the place and even double or triple cutting didn't help, because as soon as you ran over that same swatch it was still only cutting just as much. Hope this helps.

heritage
09-14-2008, 08:42 PM
ok, i got the deck level at 3.75" by adding one 1/2inch washer to each caster wheel and at like 3.5" cutting height. the problem is still there, but has improved. a lot better cutting than yesterday.

so, should i add another washer up front and then and spacer to the blades to keep them at around 3.5"....so that the deck will be around 4....???


Thanks for all the help so far.

No,

Keep it Level :)

Now get the blades I suggested.

Can you get the blades "under the deck" lower (3") and still have at least a 1/4" between bottom of deck, and the blade tip?

Pete

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 09:14 PM
No,

Keep it Level :)

Now get the blades I suggested.

Can you get the blades "under the deck" lower (3") and still have at least a 1/4" between bottom of deck, and the blade tip?

Pete

ok. i might be able to do that, but i need at least a 3.5" cut. i'll have to experiment with it.

im going to my scag dealer tomorrow, and getting some high lifts, fuel filter, sulky, belts, caster tires, oil filter.

funny thing.....i was putting air in my caster tires because one was at 33psi and the other was at 7psi. so i go to fill them up and this white bubble crap starts coming out. so my casters were probably filled up with fix-a-flat and now im going to have to replace them....


so you guys think that the velocity plus deck exchange wouldnt work?

probably right. owell....:cry:

S man
09-14-2008, 09:54 PM
Oh my...... You starting to sound like me a while back. I told you you should have gotten an exmark. You can't beat the cut on it.

DillonsLawnCare
09-14-2008, 10:54 PM
i couldnt afford an exmark. my limit was $3000. trust me, if i could blow $10,000 is would be either on a scag velocity plus mower or an exmark.

huskres
09-14-2008, 10:54 PM
Do you pull your trailer with that hitch ball on there? :D

S man
09-15-2008, 12:02 AM
i couldnt afford an exmark. my limit was $3000. trust me, if i could blow $10,000 is would be either on a scag velocity plus mower or an exmark.

An exmark or scag 52" rider doesn't cost 10 grand. You can get a lazer z hp 23/52 for 7k I think. I paid 6k for my 46" and it is worth it.

heritage
09-15-2008, 12:06 AM
ok. i might be able to do that, but i need at least a 3.5" cut. i'll have to experiment with it.

im going to my scag dealer tomorrow, and getting some high lifts, fuel filter, sulky, belts, caster tires, oil filter.

funny thing.....i was putting air in my caster tires because one was at 33psi and the other was at 7psi. so i go to fill them up and this white bubble crap starts coming out. so my casters were probably filled up with fix-a-flat and now im going to have to replace them....


so you guys think that the velocity plus deck exchange wouldnt work?

probably right. owell....:cry:


It's all part of learning....It's ok, we all learn everyday :)

You may want to change the front castor wheels to the ones that have foam....Maintenance Free :)

In the lawn mowing business, you want to make the equipment as downtime resistant as you can.



Also Let us know how the Scag Hi-Lifts work out @ 3.5".

Also check your drive tire pressure....They look overfilled too...At least in the Pic you posted.

Pete

DillonsLawnCare
09-15-2008, 12:16 AM
the drive tires are at 15psi as stated in the manual.

ricky86
09-15-2008, 12:56 AM
You should slow down. See if Q.O.C. improves. Two premium brands in a row, both with a reputation of A-1 quality of cut. Maybe it's the grass???????????

02DURAMAX
09-15-2008, 01:31 AM
Oh my...... You starting to sound like me a while back. I told you you should have gotten an exmark. You can't beat the cut on it.

Any Mower will cut bad if there not set Right....Exmark can do the same...How come my Scag leaves a Beautiful cut?..And the exmark I demoed cut like total SH!T?

S man
09-15-2008, 01:57 AM
Any Mower will cut bad if there not set Right....Exmark can do the same...How come my Scag leaves a Beautiful cut?..And the exmark I demoed cut like total SH!T?

Different conditions up there then here in the south. Exmarks cut better than some scags I've seen down here.

02DURAMAX
09-15-2008, 03:34 AM
Different conditions up there then here in the south. Exmarks cut better than some scags I've seen down here.

And thats what im saying...Exmark could of done the samething.

Tharrell
09-15-2008, 09:19 AM
It seems the answer to the cut problem may lie in your first post:

"1st ...its not cutting right. it leaves pushed over, some what cut grass in the middle of the 52" swath. The thicker the grass i get into, the worse it gets.
I have sharp blades on there. I tightened the belts and idler pulleys, but it still leaves the grass."

Maybe your blades are not as sharp as you think or the belts are not as tight as you think. Is a spindle or idler pulley going bad? Possibly you're running to fast for conditions? Also, is your deck bent or warped?
How are the rpms on the engine? Need maximum rpms to operate as designed.
The thing is, Scags produce a quality cut, I know because I have one. I also have 3 Bob-Cats and a Lesco. They all have to be setup as designed to operate correctly. I've learned the hard way when all else fails, I go back to the manual and try to find something I missed, and I usually have missed something or a part has failed.
Also, the front of the deck is supposed to pitch down, it's in every manual I've ever read. And it's not hard to fill the hydro tank, it's huge and designed so the pumps won't cavitate when on an incline. Tony

ed2hess
09-16-2008, 08:59 PM
You should slow down. See if Q.O.C. improves. Two premium brands in a row, both with a reputation of A-1 quality of cut. Maybe it's the grass???????????

Yep probably right.......he should have bought a Quick

DillonsLawnCare
09-21-2008, 05:30 PM
first off, with the past two mowers that ive owned (Toro ZTR & Scag Walk-behind) I AM NOT MOVING TOOO FAST!!!

if anything, im moving around 1.5mph...sometimes not even that. so it is most definately not operator error.

Ive troubleshooted everything. EXCEPT, the engine RPMS.

Belts are tight, blades are extremely sharp, pulleys are in correct position, spindles are greased. Fresh oil change, new plugs and i'm putting lucas in my fuel. and the deck is very clean.

so im probably gunna take it down to my dealer tomorrow, to see if they'd be willing to measure the RPMS with a tachometer.

or i might see how much they'd give me for a trade in.

Anymore advice???

Thanks so far.