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Athletic field
09-16-2008, 08:17 PM
I'm looking to buy a 3pt hitch Ryan aerator for large yards and ballfields. I plan on aerating agressively and then broadcast the seed with my Z and then drag.

I have 3.2 acres of ballfields all in one complex
I plan on applying 4lbs/1000 P Rye in the process.
Aerate with ryan aerator

$2200


I will fertilize, thats taken care of in their yearly contract, price above dosen't include fert

Viseras lawn service
09-16-2008, 09:37 PM
i have been pricing my aeration/overseed jobs at about $30/1k sf. Large jobs I go down slightly. I just bid a 122,000 sq ft yard today at about 3500. Same seeding rate as you also, just using mix of blue/rye

rockymtnmf
09-17-2008, 06:45 PM
Im with "Viseras" on the price. I charge $30 per 1K sqft. If my math is correct... 44K per acre x 3 acres (or about) = 132 x $30 is $3960. So giving a discount for such a large job, just like Viseras, you should have charged much more, at least somewhere near $3000. I woulda tried to get $3500.

just my 2 cents

Athletic field
09-17-2008, 10:50 PM
thanks guys. I haven't given a them a price yet.

Marcos
09-18-2008, 02:50 PM
I'm looking to buy a 3pt hitch Ryan aerator for large yards and ballfields. I plan on aerating agressively and then broadcast the seed with my Z and then drag.

I have 3.2 acres of ballfields all in one complex
I plan on applying 4lbs/1000 P Rye in the process.
Aerate with ryan aerator

$2200


I will fertilize, thats taken care of in their yearly contract, price above dosen't include fert

Just sad...
Another example of a "poor man's renovation job."

Core aerators by themselves were never intended from the get-go to be seed preparation instruments. It's just a cryin' shame that the green industry as a whole has evolved this very functional maintenance procedure toward this low-ball (and "low-bid":laugh:) annual practice since the practice of core aeration began to permeate away from it's golf course origins of the late 60's and early 70's.

I recommend that you find yourself a decent slicing machine, and slice the field after it's been aerated.
That way you'll be planting the seed directly with the vertical cuts, AND you'll be increasing the seed to soil contact % dramatically, because you'll of course be chopping up the deposited cores too, as you go along dropping the seed and slicing.

With all due respect, Athletic Field, using the method you described....you'll likely be burying and /or destroying an extremely high % of your seed!

Athletic field
09-18-2008, 05:49 PM
Thanks for your 2 cents Marcos.

I know a lot of golf courses who aerate and seed without a seeder. they do well. Sorry that I may not be as econmonically incline as you and have to do it this way (poor man's way). Yes I have worked for large companies that had all of the equipment, aerators, seeders etc. and understand that a seeder is nice, but not essential. Aeration makes a great seed bed, I don't care about the original intent of it. If it works it works. I'm a Penn State Grad and all the profs stress this when seeding. You can't keep tilling a field like farmers do when they plant? Aerating is how we get around that. And I wasn't looking for smart ass coments. So why waste your time talking to me, if your so much better?

Thanks

Marcos
09-19-2008, 12:57 AM
Thanks for your 2 cents Marcos.

I know a lot of golf courses who aerate and seed without a seeder. they do well. Sorry that I may not be as econmonically incline as you and have to do it this way (poor man's way). Yes I have worked for large companies that had all of the equipment, aerators, seeders etc. and understand that a seeder is nice, but not essential. Aeration makes a great seed bed, I don't care about the original intent of it. If it works it works. I'm a Penn State Grad and all the profs stress this when seeding. You can't keep tilling a field like farmers do when they plant? Aerating is how we get around that. And I wasn't looking for smart ass coments. So why waste your time talking to me, if your so much better?

Thanks

Hey, sorry! :waving:
Just trying to save you time in the long run, and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

PLM-1
09-19-2008, 02:51 AM
I'm $0.025 per square foot aeration. Our average lawn is about 20k here so $500 + seed.

beaglegun
10-08-2008, 06:00 PM
Marcos, I understand exactly what you're saying about aeration not being the proper seed placement task. What it is, is a time saver if you can get a good result. You eliminated a part of the process. I tried this this year. Tell me what you think:

1 Aeration 3 ways
2 Drag with a infield drag
3 Seed, fert, lime
4 topdress sand and soil mix
5 Drag again

cod8825
10-10-2008, 06:21 PM
Beagle that is plenty fine

I charge $40 per K this includes the following services

1. Mow yard at 1.5 or 2"
2. Dethatch and bad tatch with baggin unit.
3. Aerate with core areator two directions core depth 2"
4. Fertilize with 12-18-12 starter fertilizer
5. Slit seed with Helena Tri-power blue 90%fine fescue 10%KBG at rate of 5lbs per K
6. Collect money and instruct customer on proper watering.

I don't care if they mow the day I show up I will mow anyway so that I can bag clippings and thatch steps 1&2 are done with a walker GHS 48" mower.

Marcos
10-11-2008, 11:08 AM
Marcos, I understand exactly what you're saying about aeration not being the proper seed placement task. What it is, is a time saver if you can get a good result. You eliminated a part of the process. I tried this this year. Tell me what you think:

1 Aeration 3 ways
2 Drag with a infield drag
3 Seed, fert, lime
4 topdress sand and soil mix
5 Drag again

Sounds awfully dusty to me! :laugh:
How did it turn out?

Was the field "compacted"...to warrant aeration?
Or was this alot more "economically feasible" to you than slicing it?

Personally, I might have switched the order of steps #4 and #5, which would ensure that I wouldn't be 'burying' a certain % of my seed and fertilizer too low in the soil zone, and thus (potentially) wasting some of it.
The final dragging (step #5) should be enough to ensure adequate seed/soil contact.

Proper seed/soil contact is vital in any grow-in project.
But don't make the mistake in "burying" your renovation project below a cocktail of soil amendments!
Seed grows just fine...right near the TOP....assuming that the irrigation & moisture control measures are there.

beaglegun
10-11-2008, 04:02 PM
This field is played on 6 days a week from April until mid Sept. I can see new seedlings but not as thick as I would hope. I did this last Saturday so I should get more germination this week I would think.

MCLC
10-11-2008, 11:33 PM
I only do small residential properties with a Turfco Turnair Six, but a couple of days ago I saw a guy from Yard Pro using a tractor with an over seeder and I decided to stop and ask questions and look, he was over seeding a large commercial property with a 60" Aeravator from Fist Products with a seed box on top, he told me that he has used that machine on sports field and people can use them right away. The ground was very dry and compacted and after he he got back to work I went behind to look at the ground, it was very loose and the seed to soil was much better than a core aerator and the existing grass did not look very disturbed, also he did not need to raise the Aeravator as it turns with the tractor. I will go back to that property in a couple of weeks to see the germination over the polka dot results you get with a core aerator. I did not asked how much he charged.

beaglegun
10-13-2008, 03:04 PM
I'm going to the GIE+Expo next week. It's just 25 miles north. I'm going mostly to look at an Aeravator.If this machine works as people have said it does, I believe it would be worth the money if you could get several local High Schools interested.

Marcos
10-14-2008, 11:25 AM
I'm going to the GIE+Expo next week. It's just 25 miles north. I'm going mostly to look at an Aeravator.If this machine works as people have said it does, I believe it would be worth the money if you could get several local High Schools interested.


How well an Aeravator works in various situations hinges directly upon how much soil moisture is present at that given time, as well as the differences in porosity of the soil structure.

beaglegun
10-14-2008, 02:38 PM
Isn't that true with any aeration process? I had heard that an Aeravator would break through harder ground then any core aerator.

Ramrods
11-06-2008, 11:03 AM
here is my 2 cents, from 30 + years of maintaining golf courses, school districts, residential and professional sports franchises facilities.

I am not a big proponent of core aerification of home lawns. At one time I owned 75k worth of aerifiaction equipment. I did not even do my own lawn. I believe the homeowner does not get enough benefit to justify the cost. On the flip side if every kid in the neighborhood was playing on your lawn everyday, in the same spots, playing baseball-soccer football and whatever, then maybe the cost is worth it. But for an average home lawn I don't sell a service I know they don't need. I am about giving value for their money. I earned my reputation over the last number of years selling results that they can see. That's why my phone has rung from FIFA and other high profile franchises. I would much rather do a slit seed de-thatching with starter to renovate.

Now on many of my school fields I will be coring, then topdressing seed into the cores, than dragging with a tine harrow. This has worked great for many of my fields for years. With REAL compaction issues on these fields, like goal mouths and sidelines it definitely essential for recovery. On my golf courses we core sometimes then slit seed into that then drag. works great for tees, fairways, rough, and greens if your using the right equipment.but for a home lawn the conditions are totally different. The level of play on a home lawn is way different than the level of play at a golf courses, or even a local soccer field.

BTW I do have a turf grass degree as well.

Sorry for the rant. I hate landscapers who generate work, and profits when the services may not be needed. I earned my rep by using the right product, at the right time, with the right piece of equipment, at the right rate.

whats up with coring in different directions, use the right equipment and slow down or narrow your spacing.

as for the first products aerivator, I has used the different versions over the years. seedivator/with seed box, aerivator without, the slower you go the more agitation your going to get with the fingers. I have gone dog slow in hard pan behind baseball backstops and have totally pulverized the soil and Incorporated the seed, with great results with alot of seed germinating. However on the flip-side the seedivator is not good for over-seeding into a fairway or athletic field. it just does not do a good job of incorporating seed because you already have a thatch layer to contest with. Seed needs to be in the soil and the seedivator won't do that in a good established turf, but it will do an awesome job on cart paths, walkways, backstops, common ground areas and other areas where the grass cover is thin. So buy what you need for the work you will be doing. I have used the old olathe 83 design that toro bought out for 20+ years. I have gone thru 3 of these machines over that time seeding thousands of acres, in all kinds of conditions, from dust bowls fairways that were not watered all season to the best condition stadium fields. this type of seeding has always worked with great % of germination. I had the opportunity to purchase a land pride seeder a few years back. Its got the rolling barrels up front that you angle for more agitation. Its ground driven not pto powered. So my results with it were sub par once again in my existing good turf situations. Since most of my accounts are in great shape i found it was not a good tool for me. For a landscaper seeding into new construction, and new seedbeds probably perfect. So I sold it. So just do your homework and buy the right tool for the job, don't rely on a salesman, unless he has a turf management back round and you know you can trust him.

Thanks for your time