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View Full Version : retaining wall install and the ground is spongey after compaction!


Hardscaping
09-17-2008, 09:53 PM
ok so i got a wall install it is 54 ft long and 3.5 feet high.

so i took out the old retaining wall which was made of rail ties. once itook these out i duge the ground until it seemed solid ther was only one spot the was a bit sponey at first in the corner before compaction. once i noticed this i dug it out a bit more.

so i fill in the area for base material of road gravel so i can compact it, once i started to compact it most areas became really spongey.

we have had alot of rain in the last bit before the job started.

it was si spongey that when walking on it you could see it moving under you feet.

My assumtion is that it is still wet there and that the ground is spongey from that, now my plan is to go back tomorrow and do the wall and the base material again. take out what is in place redo it and use 50% a gravel compacted then the other %50 of the base i am going to use 3\4 clean.

any suggestions on this situation, need them asap.

bike5200
09-17-2008, 10:03 PM
If the ground is spongy or what I call pumping, gravel is not going to fix it. I guess you could try to dry it out. Around here they use shale to bridge it. You need to talk to a soil engineer.

shovelracer
09-17-2008, 10:05 PM
Suggestions? Take a class. There is a very small margin of moisture content in most materials that will result in proper compaction. This varies by classification. But none the less you most likely are outside the range for your application and likely are using the wrong tools.

Hardscaping
09-17-2008, 10:54 PM
Suggestions? Take a class. There is a very small margin of moisture content in most materials that will result in proper compaction. This varies by classification. But none the less you most likely are outside the range for your application and likely are using the wrong tools.


No need for being rude, Thanks for the input though. The moisture content is high i know this hence me saying that it has rained alot lately. I am leaving it until tomorrow to see if it hardens up. if it does then it was just the rain.

The area is very small and compact i can only fit a jumping jack in there and have noticed that this is the wrong thing to use. I will never use one of those again.

mrusk
09-17-2008, 11:01 PM
No need for being rude, Thanks for the input though. The moisture content is high i know this hence me saying that it has rained alot lately. I am leaving it until tomorrow to see if it hardens up. if it does then it was just the rain.

The area is very small and compact i can only fit a jumping jack in there and have noticed that this is the wrong thing to use. I will never use one of those again.


You do need to take a class. First off a wall base trench should not be tiny. It should be 2-3 feet wide. And a jumping jack is the best compactor you could use for compacted the sub base for any hardscape.

Hardscaping
09-17-2008, 11:03 PM
ok so i won't use the gravel i will just use 3\4 inch to 1.5 inch crusher run stone. I am going to use a tamper on it a bit not the jumping jack, hopefully it fits.

Basically i think what i will do, is dig it out a bit more as much as i can, resonably. Then i will fill it with the road gravel compact and then the 3\4" on the top of the road gravel for drainage. Now since this type of thing is requiring alot of extra diging like another probably 6 to 8 inches, I think that i will be ok for the block wise, but the base blocks i will just burry them a bit more.

The question now is do i pass some of the extra cost on to the customer or do i just eat it?

Hardscaping
09-17-2008, 11:05 PM
You do need to take a class. First off a wall base trench should not be tiny. It should be 2-3 feet wide. And a jumping jack is the best compactor you could use for compacted the sub base for any hardscape.

The reason why i say not to be rude is i cannot take a class right now between tonight and tomorrow. So i would be willing to take a class for this kind of thing it just won't happen before i finish this wall.

This website is here to HELP people not tell them things that are irrelevant to helping them at the current moment.

For example a relevant answer would be by not being rude but stating the same info.

"Suggestions? ( now write a suggestion here ). Also would like to state that there are classes that can hel you with this type of info, so that you can know this type of thing before hand and know how to deal with it."


The trench is 21 inches wide. but there is a deck right up to the area where the wall is going and the wall base is about 18" below the top of the deck. So you can understand why i am saying that it is tiny.

mrusk
09-17-2008, 11:27 PM
Dig your trench 24" deep. Don't compact the dirt. Line the trench with fabric. Throw in 12" of 2.5" crushed stone. compact and cover the top with fabric. Then put your 6" qp base on top of that. You will be fine.

Hardscaping
09-17-2008, 11:34 PM
ok when i get there i will look at it, if it is still spongey then i will dig it out and then i was thinking maybe putting 1" styro foam down ( the stuff they use on the house basements ) and then the road gravel with the fabric underneath it, 4" of gravel compacted. then i will put in 2 inches of 3\4 " crushed for drainage.

Let me know what you think.

Mrusk that is a good idea i will think it over and see how things work out. i will def do this if i have to dig that much out.

mrusk
09-17-2008, 11:39 PM
Hardscaping I have donw thousands of feet of walls using that method.

Don't use foam. That is the craziest thing I ever heard.

Hardscaping
09-18-2008, 01:30 AM
thanks for the help.

Basically with research on the net and the info you have given me i have decided to dig it up a bit and then fill with 1" stone using fabric around it and then compact and then use a stone base and then use all the gravell i have for behind the wall. gonna cost me an extra 120 bux and about 2 more hours of work. but i guess that is not much of a problem to avoid 3 days of tear out and reinstall due to not being done properly.

PatriotLandscape
09-18-2008, 06:36 PM
ok when i get there i will look at it, if it is still spongey then i will dig it out and then i was thinking maybe putting 1" styro foam down ( the stuff they use on the house basements ) and then the road gravel with the fabric underneath it, 4" of gravel compacted. then i will put in 2 inches of 3\4 " crushed for drainage.

Let me know what you think.



seriously what are you smoking. What the hell would Styrofoam do?
why did you take a job that you were not qualified to do. beyond being qualified you didn't even have a general understanding of the minimum requirements for install.

kootoomootoo
09-18-2008, 08:48 PM
what color styrofoam.

wurkn with amish
09-18-2008, 10:07 PM
I hope pink!

Mike33
09-18-2008, 11:11 PM
Hardscaping with another crisis! What else is new.
mike

TerraTek
09-19-2008, 12:07 AM
id use spray foam, taht way there will be no drafts or leaks

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 01:04 AM
well since you guys are just comedians on here, i can come home and have a laugh.

Don't think for a minute that i cannot build a nice wall, and do it correctly. I have finished the base and the base course blocks as well as most of the wall today. Just have to put another 200 block into the job and clean up.

I decided to listen to you mrusk somewhat. I didn't dig down 24". i dug out 8 inches lower than originally dug out hit hard ground and then, I put down seperation fabric and then filled in the area with 3\4" clean stone. As well as 6" to 8" behind the wall.

I have built this wall correctly i used hanson wallstone used bottom three layers for most of job being the double units.

The wall is level and looks great so far. once done i will show the pics. With the problems incured it took longer than expected but what can ya do.

The wall is 54 feet long and 95% or the wall is 11 blocks high that is 44" high.

Each block is stepped back one inch. I have to go back tomorrow and put in the remaining 200 block of the 590 i am using. The homeowner has seen the job every step and is very pleased. Even had someone to come over looking at it, they liked it too.

There was a lot of dig out and i couldn't get the mini ex in there to do it, because the ground would of caved in. very wet.

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 01:13 AM
The foam idea that i was talking about was for under walkways it helps stop the shifting from freeze thaw.

What you do is put down one layer of the 2" foam down throughout the area to be done. then you put down a second layer as you would stack retaining wall blocks, splitting them. Then you install you 6 to 8" base of a gravel compacted in lifts. then you screed you sand and install pavers. this is suppose to act as a base would if it was about 2 to 3 feet deep. also good to use under driveways in same manor but using 8 to 12" of base material.

neighborguy
09-19-2008, 01:29 PM
Hardscaping, I have never heard of such a thing. i am not criticizing, just never heard of it. How many times have you done it this method? How long has it been installed? Do you have pictures? I am just curious as we in Wisconsin have to battle the freeze/thaw cycle as you have to in Ontario.

Thanks.

jamo1911
09-19-2008, 09:32 PM
Dude,
There are a few things you can do to fix this.
You must achieve 98% standard proctor density in your sub base before you can move to the base. If you are having trouble getting your compaction #'s I suggest you do one of 2 things. 1. wait till it dries out, you could add hydrated lime to help it out but it will be hard to mix in the soil (sounds like clay). while I am on the subject of clay - you should get the sub base tested by a testing company. I know in reality you probably won't do this at this point but you should. Reason being - if the soil has more that 30% passing a #200 sieve it is not stable enough for building a wall on period. It sounds like it is by the way you describe the pumping action. In this case you could use your jumping jack to pound in (what we call in NY) rip-rap. Just softball size chunks of rock. This will in essence change the ratio of passing and not passing the #200 to less than 30%.
2. you could just excavate out your sub base till you reach solid virgin soil and fill with proper base material. By the way, how wide is your base? it must be at least 3x as wide as the block.
Have your base tested by the testing company for standard proctor density or buy a dynamic cone penetrometer and do it yourself.

I know ppl on here are busting your chops - for good reason. If you drive around and see failed walls, well guess how some of them got that way. Contractors that did not know what they are doing. I understand you may have sold the job already. But to be fair to the industry please get the schooling you need. Even if your customer knows this is your first wall, or are not trained, their friends do not. What this means is that if a random person walks in the back yard and looks at this wall after it fails they may lose faith in segmented retaining walls. How many times have you heard pavers don't work, move, etc. It's just bad for the industry to do bad work.
Good luck and please do it right for all of us who rely on the industry as a whole to have a good rep.

punt66
09-19-2008, 09:44 PM
Dude,
There are a few things you can do to fix this.
You must achieve 98% standard proctor density in your sub base before you can move to the base. If you are having trouble getting your compaction #'s I suggest you do one of 2 things. 1. wait till it dries out, you could add hydrated lime to help it out but it will be hard to mix in the soil (sounds like clay). while I am on the subject of clay - you should get the sub base tested by a testing company. I know in reality you probably won't do this at this point but you should. Reason being - if the soil has more that 30% passing a #200 sieve it is not stable enough for building a wall on period. It sounds like it is by the way you describe the pumping action. In this case you could use your jumping jack to pound in (what we call in NY) rip-rap. Just softball size chunks of rock. This will in essence change the ratio of passing and not passing the #200 to less than 30%.
2. you could just excavate out your sub base till you reach solid virgin soil and fill with proper base material. By the way, how wide is your base? it must be at least 3x as wide as the block.
Have your base tested by the testing company for standard proctor density or buy a dynamic cone penetrometer and do it yourself.

I know ppl on here are busting your chops - for good reason. If you drive around and see failed walls, well guess how some of them got that way. Contractors that did not know what they are doing. I understand you may have sold the job already. But to be fair to the industry please get the schooling you need. Even if your customer knows this is your first wall, or are not trained, their friends do not. What this means is that if a random person walks in the back yard and looks at this wall after it fails they may lose faith in segmented retaining walls. How many times have you heard pavers don't work, move, etc. It's just bad for the industry to do bad work.
Good luck and please do it right for all of us who rely on the industry as a whole to have a good rep.


If he didnt care about doing it right he wouldnt be here asking questions. Get over yourself.

zedosix
09-19-2008, 10:53 PM
We call it "cowbelly" and you aint solving the problem by digging to China. Here is what you do with no icpi jingo jango. Dig the trench as you normally would, if you get that spongey feeling I want you to dig a bit deeper (about a foot or so) and add 2" minus. Mix in with it a bag or two of portland cement and spread it on the 2" base. It will absorb the water and make your base harder. Compact with a plate compactor, (don't use the jumping jack) when you get back up to your normal sub grade I want you to lay a geo-tex over the compacted 2" minus and the remainder of the trench. Now go about your regular wall building techniques. Have a good day.

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 11:10 PM
Hardscaping, I have never heard of such a thing. i am not criticizing, just never heard of it. How many times have you done it this method? How long has it been installed? Do you have pictures? I am just curious as we in Wisconsin have to battle the freeze/thaw cycle as you have to in Ontario.

Thanks.

I have never done it personally but my dad has done it a few times and he lives in newfoundland with way worse winters then here, he showed me a driveway he did with this method and it was perfect not one imperfection. It was about 4 years old. He said as well as others have agreed, also apparently some engineera recomend it for driveways as it can help alot as long as installed properly.

I would say the best thing to do is ask an engineer possibly about the method as i have never done it personally but i have heard alot of good things from a few different people.

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 11:12 PM
the job is done i am in the clean up stage. this thread can be closed.

zedosix
09-19-2008, 11:14 PM
the job is done i am in the clean up stage. this thread can be closed.

So you've nothing else to say! Ok management did you get that, CLOSE THE THREAD! HARDSCAPING HAS NOTHING MORE TO SAY:laugh:

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 11:15 PM
Hardscaping with another crisis! What else is new.
mike


Hey witht he problem you apparently have with me just stop posting in my threads once you see i have wrote it then you should just click the back button and not worry about it.

You obviously don't have a clue about much because all you do is talk ish.

Hardscaping
09-19-2008, 11:17 PM
I asked for help i got what i needed why do i need to go on more?

Mike33
09-20-2008, 12:19 AM
Hey witht he problem you apparently have with me just stop posting in my threads once you see i have wrote it then you should just click the back button and not worry about it.

You obviously don't have a clue about much because all you do is talk ish.

I think i'm allowed to post on any thread i care too! How old are you? I will say your input on this site is very hilarious and entertaining.:) I don't have a clue about this work, that is really funny. I guess being in the hard and landscaping business for 14 years with 2 bobcats, mini-x, hydro-seeder, trucks, 4 trailers, laser, saws, and all hand tools even all paid for is just talk. :hammerhead: Son, i don't come on here with 15 pages of bull crap about a job i'm trying to get and don't have a clue about. Neither do i have to ask about a srw footer since i have over 300 walls experience. I know you would like to play in our world but you have a long way to go. Btw some of us do make a living doing this work.
Mike

Hardscaping
09-20-2008, 12:24 AM
I think i'm allowed to post on any thread i care too! How old are you? I will say your input on this site is very hilarious and entertaining.:) I don't have a clue about this work, that is really funny. I guess being in the hard and landscaping business for 14 years with 2 bobcats, mini-x, hydro-seeder, trucks, 4 trailers, laser, saws, and all hand tools even all paid for is just talk. :hammerhead: Son, i don't come on here with 15 pages of bull crap about a job i'm trying to get and don't have a clue about. Neither do i have to ask about a srw footer since i have over 300 walls experience. I know you would like to play in our world but you have a long way to go. Btw some of us do make a living doing this work.
Mike

Well some of us are starting out making a living in this work. you have to understand that we come here to ask for help and as$holes like you should help since you say you have all this experience. instead of talking ish and bragging about the equipment you have, just help and be on with your life. Don't get your kicks from me, i am on here to learn and i can only learn when people can show me valid points.


By the way i just used my brand new concrete saw today, does that make me a better hardscaper because i own it now and not rent it when i need it.

Mike33
09-20-2008, 12:50 AM
I guess i'm the only one that pushed your button here? I have given and will continue to give advise here. Even for you, I have read pages of replies telling you not to do the driveway and i make 2-3 replies and you jump me. Let me start fresh, i do general landscaping ( new yard installs, excavation, etc. ) i am now 1 of the largest srw cont. in my area. I never got in to pavers believe it or not because i stayed busy with other work. I decided this year to do a patio and 60' of sidewalk at my new home for learning experience. I completed it just working on weekend with out my staff. It looks good to me and i posted it earlier for critque and got some responce which helped me learn. My point is i know i am not ready to do a driveway that you was talking about. Its a matter of knowing your limitations and you are not ready for it either from reading your posts. Keep on getting experience with smaller jobs working your self up to the larger jobs.
Mike

Hardscaping
09-20-2008, 01:17 AM
Thank you that is much better.

I have actually decided to stay away fromt he driveway until next year anyways. By then i will have alot more experience and a few classes. i am mainly focusing on getting the sod part of that job now.

I might end up not getting either the drive or the sod i hope to get it but if i don't what can i do, only move on to the next one.

My name is Ben

PatriotLandscape
09-20-2008, 03:27 PM
Next time get a signature or a time frame it is really annoying when you have 15 pages without a signed contract and now your not even doing the job. Stop wasting our time.

Hardscaping
09-20-2008, 03:32 PM
you are wasting your own time i am still learning from talking about it.

Kennedy Landscaping
12-12-2008, 03:21 PM
Where are the finished picutres? I enjoyed reading this thread as I may be doing my first wall job next summer.

Hardscaping
12-12-2008, 08:40 PM
i don't even know if i have the finished pictures around, the phone i used to take the pictures with screwed up a few times since then but if i can find them i will post them other than that here is a few pictures from a different wall i did this year.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00053.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00055.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00056.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00068.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00070.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00077.jpg

Kennedy Landscaping
12-12-2008, 09:31 PM
Looks good. What does the liner do?

punt66
12-13-2008, 09:34 AM
Looks good. What does the liner do?]

Keeps the soil from cloging the stone and making the stone ineffective for draiing the water.

LawnVet
12-13-2008, 12:24 PM
Please tell me there is a plan for that downspout. I'd hate to see it drain along your wall. Talk about wash out, not to mention ice-hazard.
Wall looks good. I would like to see the one this thread is about. Sounds much bigger.

Hardscaping
12-13-2008, 01:13 PM
the down spout was supposed to be moved to the other side of drive way.

i will see if i can find the ones of this thread. i found the before just not the after.

DeereHauler
12-17-2008, 12:42 AM
Please tell me there is a plan for that downspout. I'd hate to see it drain along your wall. Talk about wash out, not to mention ice-hazard.
Wall looks good. I would like to see the one this thread is about. Sounds much bigger.

seeing the downspout there i would move it over to just inside the wall with an elbow, or move the entire downspout over. tie it into a solid drain pipe that runs the length of the wall, under the stone, and drain to the street away from any potential erosion or ice hazards.

does that sound correct? just trying to learn from this particular install he has here.

csl
12-17-2008, 12:56 AM
i sure as hell know those pics werent taken with a camera phone. you have a digital camera, so go take some pics and put this thread to rest. unless it looks like garbage (your wall) then we will have many more months to add pages and pages to this thread! woo hoo

Hardscaping
12-17-2008, 07:43 AM
The wall in this thread is covered with snow right now if you would like that picture then no problem.

Also those pictures were taken with my blackberry, and i do have a camera you are correct, just got it back because it was corupting the data on the memory cards.

PlatinumLandCon
12-17-2008, 05:26 PM
Man your work looks brutal. Why doesn't the top line up with the step on the left side?

PatriotLandscape
12-17-2008, 07:08 PM
different rises on each step.

Hardscaping
12-17-2008, 08:17 PM
you guys got to get over your self

This wall looks good and the risers are all the same.

Tyler7692
12-17-2008, 08:57 PM
Did you use any grid on this wall?

soopa
12-18-2008, 09:28 AM
certainly not the best work i've seen but it's far from "brutal". have you seen some of the crap guys out there are pumping out?

kudos to Hardscaping for giving a f- enough to come and ask for help. takes balls to admit you don't have all the answers amongst this crowd.

PlatinumLandCon
12-18-2008, 08:37 PM
This isn't brutal??

Hardscaping
12-19-2008, 05:37 AM
The top portion of walkway the customer wanted it like that too leave room for hiw garden.

the pattern i do admit on the landing is kinda weird. but it looks good when you look at it in person.

If that is what you call brutal then you should see some of the work out there being performed.

Like for example the guy next door to this house(it is a semi) is putting in wall with same materials.

he dug out half the trench then started laying blocks in. they didn't even get 35 block in and now it is exposed to the weather and will have to be redone, they are also using sand as a setting bed for the blocks.

Hardscaping
12-19-2008, 05:38 AM
no grid needed for this wall, not big enough.

btammo
12-19-2008, 07:54 AM
no grid needed for this wall, not big enough.

I put grid in all of my walls. Grid isnt that much and takes hardly any extra time to install. Its piece of mind.

PatriotLandscape
12-19-2008, 09:00 AM
if your knew you were using pavers on the job why didn't you choose a paver with a matching wall? AB never matches any pavers.

Hardscaping
12-19-2008, 01:26 PM
because the wall was built then the home owner was going to put paver slabs down so i convinced him after the wall that it won't look good unless it has that done to it. The wall product was also bought before i even quoted the job i only got payed to install them.

also the pavers match as close as you can get to that wall.

Hardscaping
12-19-2008, 01:28 PM
grid in this wal is overkill, waisted money and time. there is alot more time involved in installing grid when you dig the wall by hand with only you and one other person.

If it required grid i wouldve put it there but wouldve had to rent a mini excavator to dig the wall out. That is extra dollars.

soopa
12-19-2008, 02:26 PM
This isn't brutal??
I never said it looked perfect.. ;)

It's certainly not the best install, as I've said. I just see so much horrible crap out there...

But yea, now that you point out the details... treads/walkway not lining up... wtf? If they wanted room for the garden why not make the stairs narrower?

And the pavers... ya.... no ******* clue what's going on with the pattern there.. :|


Nonetheless, I still have to give the guy some credit for coming here and at least trying to gain some knowledge to do things right. Looks like he should have just come here a little sooner :)

Hardscaping
12-19-2008, 08:36 PM
there is nothing wrong with this wall. i think it looks just fine.

castle555
12-20-2008, 03:14 AM
Good suggestion there from Mrusk on the fabric. Spongey ground is due to high moisture content. What is the soil composition? The plus side is it will dry out and firm up, unless you are in Seattle or Portland.
I'm a California Licensed Landscape Contractor, so here's my 2 cents:
What is the wall made of? Did you use Amerdrain or Miradrain to capture the moisture on the earthen side of the wall? And, what about a 3" perf. drain liner at the bottom of the wall on the inside? -that should be covered with fabric and gravel then fabric and more gravel, if you are getting that much moisture after rain there best to install a drain line to capture it. Check the NDS Website for sub-drain options.

Clay, Sand? DG? shale? Rock? I've found that by mixing in 20% to 50% organic compost in with native soil, it will modify the soil to give up the moisture that clay soils retain and it almost immediately becomes stable. For example, generally: A good soil mix is 40/40/20 40 topsoil/40 organic/20 sand for drainage and growing things.
Best soil mix for compaction is engineered fill -screened to lay in at 85% compaction and can achieve 95% with tamping.
You should be able to find this type through a local engineering contractor's outfit and can usually buy direct -they'll deliver.
Good day and Hope this helps you out.

soopa
12-24-2008, 11:10 AM
there is nothing wrong with this wall. i think it looks just fine.

people have pointed out obvious flaws. nobody is perfect...

btammo
12-25-2008, 01:00 PM
grid in this wal is overkill, waisted money and time. there is alot more time involved in installing grid when you dig the wall by hand with only you and one other person.

If it required grid i wouldve put it there but wouldve had to rent a mini excavator to dig the wall out. That is extra dollars.

Wasted time and money? You mean to tell me you didnt put it in there because you dug it all out by hand? So if you dug it out with a machine you would have used it? Job should be done right whether you dig it with an excavator or with a teaspoon. Maybe grid wasnt needed in this wall, but to say it takes too much time is ridiculous IMO.

PlatinumLandCon
12-25-2008, 03:46 PM
Wasted time and money? You mean to tell me you didnt put it in there because you dug it all out by hand? So if you dug it out with a machine you would have used it? Job should be done right whether you dig it with an excavator or with a teaspoon. Maybe grid wasnt needed in this wall, but to say it takes too much time is ridiculous IMO.

Then I guess there's no drainage backfll because they dug out bare minimum to put the block in. If there's no $$ to install correctly, don't to it. Everyone will lose in the end.

Hardscaping
12-25-2008, 09:36 PM
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/IMG00055.jpg
no drainage what so ever!

also there is no(?) a 4 inch perferated with fabric drain pipe running under all that non drainage but looks like it 3/4 inch crushed stone

Hardscaping
12-25-2008, 09:43 PM
Then I guess there's no drainage backfll because they dug out bare minimum to put the block in. If there's no $$ to install correctly, don't to it. Everyone will lose in the end.

look at pictures before talking ish.


The wall did not need the grid reason being i did not put it in? THIS WALL WAS DESIGNED BY THE COMPANY SUPPLYING THE BLOCKS, AND DID NOT NEED NOR HAVE IN THE CALL FOR THE BUILDING OF THE WALL WITH GRID IN PLACE.

structure of wall is good and has no flaws according to what needed to be done. that wall has 6 inches of Road gravel and then 5 to 6 inches of 3\4 crusher run stonefor the base. Then for drainage with about 10 inches of backfill with 3\4 inch crushed stone and 4 inch perferated with fabric drain pipe from start to finish.

Hardscaping
12-25-2008, 09:46 PM
you guys need to find another person to pick on i will not let you win i can tell you that i will keep argueing just because when i know i am right and you got nothing to proove i love pissing you off.

punt66
12-26-2008, 08:50 AM
you guys need to find another person to pick on i will not let you win i can tell you that i will keep argueing just because when i know i am right and you got nothing to proove i love pissing you off.


Your job looks good. I would have done a little different with the steps but you did a good job. You dont need a grid with that wall.

zedosix
12-26-2008, 09:49 AM
you guys need to find another person to pick on i will not let you win i can tell you that i will keep argueing just because when i know i am right and you got nothing to proove i love pissing you off.

I don't think geogrid will help much in this situation, there is barely any pressure against the wall, but if you ask me its got "homeowner special" written all over that job. Why would anyone ever use Allan block junior for a retaining wall is beyond me.

DUSTYCEDAR
12-26-2008, 10:02 AM
what happened to peace on earth:)

punt66
12-26-2008, 10:16 AM
I don't think geogrid will help much in this situation, there is barely any pressure against the wall, but if you ask me its got "homeowner special" written all over that job. Why would anyone ever use Allan block junior for a retaining wall is beyond me.


If you read the thread you would have seen it was already picked out and purchased by the home owner. They hired him to install.

zedosix
12-26-2008, 12:25 PM
If you read the thread you would have seen it was already picked out and purchased by the home owner. They hired him to install.

I rest my case.

Hardscaping
12-26-2008, 12:26 PM
thank you very much for understanding what i am saying and READING what i posted.

zedosix
12-26-2008, 12:40 PM
thank you very much for understanding what i am saying and READING what i posted.

Anytime I can be of help you just let me know.

Chris B.
12-26-2008, 04:13 PM
So do you have the pictures of the finished wall that this thread is about yet?

Hardscaping
12-26-2008, 08:34 PM
there is two feet of snow on the ground for the last two weeks.

i have found my old phone that i took the pictures with though. so i will check it and if they are there then i will post them.

Hardscaping
12-27-2008, 03:39 AM
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00377.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00375.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00376.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00373.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/bboyfrost_7/DSC00371.jpg

Hardscaping
12-27-2008, 03:42 AM
there are the pictures from the wall stated in this thread. i got them off the phone tonight.

zedosix
12-27-2008, 10:49 AM
Why is the block different now, did you tear the allan block out and put these, man you just don't make any sense at all with this thread.

Hardscaping
12-27-2008, 03:00 PM
this is a different wall from the before pictures. the other pictures are form a different job. these pictures are from the first post in this thread. two complete different jobs.

the reason why the other pictures were posted is cause someone said they were going to be building retaining walls and would like to see a picture of the wall stated in this thread. i did not have them on the computer at that time so i posted the pictures of the wall with allan block so he could see a wall that i have done. the pictures i post now are the original job from this thread.