Repair or replace Peerless 5-speed trans.

[davidcalhoun]

I have a Peerlesss 5-speed transmission that will need the needle bearings replace this winter.

Any advice for this job or should I just buy a new (or rebuilt) one?

Anybody have a 700-070A they would like to sell?

Dave

[punt66]

i would just buy a new one.

[jase4tiff]

With my walk behind i replaced the output shaft and a few bearings its been about 5 years so i dont really remember but it wasnt a bad job at all. If i were you i would just check on what the parts cost and if you have a little patience you can change it out. If you see any wear on any of the shafts its best to replace them. Let me know if i can help good luck.

[topsites]

I had a similar problem, that is, the Wb had to have a transmission.
What I did is I ordered a new one, replaced the broken one with that,
then ordered the parts to fix the broken one and set that aside.

The job in and of itself takes an afternoon, just to replace the tranny itself.
It's not complicated per se, it's just a whole lot of things have to be done.
So I didn't feel like rebuilding the tranny while my mower was down,
put a new one in it and be done with that, then deal with the trans later.

This of course was two years ago, the broken one is still broken :p
But in terms of operational machines, and it never hurts to have a spare tranny.
And yes I have the parts for it, just haven't fixed it.

[Tharrell]

Check out my recent experience with my tranny. J-Thomas is the place to get parts or a new tranny. Those parts are really expensive though. Let me know if you need the manual. Tony

[davidcalhoun]

Most places that I have checked want between $249 and $300 for a new trans.

The least expensive place I have found is at Russo Power ($164.99) but they do not have the same exact trans.

Is a 700-023 (old style) or a 700-078A (new style) interchangable with a 700-070A? Thanks,

[topsites]

Most places that I have checked want between $249 and $300 for a new trans.

The least expensive place I have found is at Russo Power ($164.99) but they do not have the same exact trans.

Is a 700-023 (old style) or a 700-078A (new style) interchangable with a 700-070A? Thanks,

First off these transmissions should run right at $200...
As for interchangeability, the simple answer is no, at least not without
anything from a minor to considerable modification.

As far as I know the biggest issue is the shifter mechanism, how that
shifter sets on top of the transmission, the actual size and configuration
of that fitting (some are hex, others square, etc) makes a difference
and then some are bolted on while others just plop into place, etc...
In some cases you can simply interchange the whole shift mechanism
between the two transmissions, if that is your only compatibility issue,
but it involves taking both transmissions apart by removing the cover
and then you're removing a used part to place in a new tranny...

The only other thing I can think of are the splines, and possibly
the length of the inner shaft(s)...

If you order the wrong one, assuming it will work, and then it doesn't...
First you have to pay the return shipping, then things can get even
more complicated if you've pulled it apart to see if you can make it work.

So, no, not really, I wouldn't want to take that chance.

[topsites]

I just checked some prices, looks more like $220-$250...

Come to think of it, if you've got all winter to do this then a rebuild might not be
such a bad idea, but plan on spending a day or two with it, if you don't mind.
And it may not take that long, but...
Because the parts for that needle bearing nonsense probably run you 40-50-60 bucks,
plan on replacing the pulley as well and you're into 50-80...dollars.

The only other question I have, and someone with experience in this
may be able to point something out...

What does the A after 700-070A do?

Because the 700-070 is a pretty standard Exmark / Toro transmission.

The other thing that would help is, what kind of mower is this going on?
Make, model, year?

[Tharrell]

Here's the 4 pages from the manual that deal with your transmission in particular. If you want, I can send you the entire manual-it's in pdf. Tony

btw-You can get an exploded view from J-Thomas website.

[kearneywalnut]

I have a 5spd on my Lesco that has a sort of skip in it, goes fine, then stops for a second. Wicked annoying in the higher gears when you run into the back of the machine. As a result I don't use the thing anymore, I attempted to take it out to look at it last year, but I got discouraged attempting to get the output shafts off, the belts etc are a real hassle on my mower.

Does anyone know if there is a certain part that would cause such a problem, it would be easier to open up the tranny and fix something than to take the entire thing out of the mower.

I think pushing around the JRCO dethatcher shortened the life of the tranny significantly. I would say only like 300-400 hours on the machine.

[Tharrell]

I am by no means a tranny expert but, I'm becoming one simply by taking mine out and working on it!
It's incredibly simple to work on after you get past all the grease. It simply lifts out. With these pages and an exploded view from J-Thomas I was able to work on mine and you can too.
You might as well, you don't have anything to lose. Tony

[GravelyNut]

I have a 5spd on my Lesco that has a sort of skip in it, goes fine, then stops for a second. Wicked annoying in the higher gears when you run into the back of the machine. As a result I don't use the thing anymore, I attempted to take it out to look at it last year, but I got discouraged attempting to get the output shafts off, the belts etc are a real hassle on my mower.

Does anyone know if there is a certain part that would cause such a problem, it would be easier to open up the tranny and fix something than to take the entire thing out of the mower.

I think pushing around the JRCO dethatcher shortened the life of the tranny significantly. I would say only like 300-400 hours on the machine.

Sounds like you could have a tooth broken/worn off of both the input bevel gear and the bevel spur gear. Only would would cause a problem when both gears align and it is under load. As you said higher gears (plural), that is where I'd check.

[davidcalhoun]

Thanks for the advice and the pages on this transmission.

Unless I can find one for a reasonable cost, I will tear into it this offseason.

[Oldtimer]

Most dealers will recommend a new transmission. When you add the parts & labor there isn's a lot of difference between replacing and rebuilding and the new unit is more reliable with a better warranty.

Oldtimer

[davidcalhoun]

OK, I got the Peerless parts in and I am going to start on the rebuild ---- if I can get the darn thing off.

This is on a Exmark 48" Metro HP (the one that looks like a Turf Tracer with a floating deck but is gear driven).

Are there any tricks to getting to the trans pulley off (so I can get to the bolts that hold the trans in place)? Do I have to remove some of the other pulleys first?

I am in no hurry on this but would like to knock if off the to-do list.

Thanks in advance for your knowledge on this.

Dave

[topsites]

I have a 5spd on my Lesco that has a sort of skip in it, goes fine, then stops for a second. Wicked annoying in the higher gears when you run into the back of the machine. As a result I don't use the thing anymore, I attempted to take it out to look at it last year, but I got discouraged attempting to get the output shafts off, the belts etc are a real hassle on my mower.

Does anyone know if there is a certain part that would cause such a problem, it would be easier to open up the tranny and fix something than to take the entire thing out of the mower.

I think pushing around the JRCO dethatcher shortened the life of the tranny significantly. I would say only like 300-400 hours on the machine.

Yes, and before you tear into the Tecumseh there are more than a few things that can cause that skip!
My sentiments direct me towards a worn bearing, but that may not be it and there are more than a few :p

First is a worn trans belt, replace this transmission belt at once to first eliminate this as a possible cause,
since this has to be pulled anyhow for most everything below, and also to inspect the following:

The wear and tear on this trans belt is not always apparent until it is off the mower.
Why, to go through the motions just to put the old one back on, go ahead and replace it, but while you have the old one off
and before you put a new one on, check all of this out:

A worn idler / tension wheel bearing.
That wheel that's used to create the tension on the belt by adjusting it, you had to loosen this one to get the old one off.
If the bearing on it is worn it can 'seize' and act as a brake upon the belt, which will then slip intermittently and feel like it is skipping.
Also if it is worn enough it could create enough 'play' that the belt isn't always as tight as it should be, thou this is more of a slip than a skip.
Either way while replacing the belt, anytime that belt needs replacing also check this tensioner pulley for bearing wear.
If it's at all loose or wobbly, replace it.

Another possibility is a sheared bottom pulley key!
If that key breaks or shears the bottom pulley may still be in place and it may not move on its own,
but under the pressure of propulsion it suddenly skips an entire revolution.
Have to pull the pulley to find out for sure.
There's a hex nut (sometimes two) that hold it, also a c-clip on the axle.
Need a clip puller tool to get that off, cheap tool (in every which way lol).
If this is the case, replace the key, the hex bolt, and the clip.

The splined couplings.
These are the two black looking cylinders that join the axle shafts on either side of the transmission to the center shaft,
they have a grease fitting and one is located on either side of the tranny.
These couplings are splined, as is the shaft, basically they are like a toothed gear, they come in either 36-spline (fine spline) or 9-spline versions.
It is very unusual for a 9-spline to crap out but the 36-splined ones are famous for shearing or wearing off the teeth, once this happens the
couplings can and will slip, this process of wear and tear can be aggravated by towing with the mower.
Only way to find out is to pull the outer shafts and inspect the axles and couplings for wear.
If this is the case, replace and if you have the 36-splined ones then do yourself a favor and replace everything with the
9-splined couplings (and the axle shafts AND center transmission shaft) and this problem will not hound you again.
Same is the case if you're replacing a transmission, if it's a 36-spline it is best to make the conversion to the 9-spline system once and for all.

Last but not least, the belt idler wheel bearings.
These are the two wheels on either side of the mower that, when pressure is applied or released to the hand controls,
these exert and release pressure on the wheel belts and are responsible for either of the side propulsion effect.
If the bearings wear in these the idler wheels will tend to freeze up and in turn act as a brake upon the belts, causing apparent 'skip'.
Replace if worn.

So...
Before tearing that transmission apart, before even installing a new one, I would check all of that out.

[topsites]

Oh, there is one or two more...

The outer drive pulleys, to either side.
They're the pulleys to the farthest outside of the transmission, on either end
of the axles this is where the belt connects that leads to the rear wheels.

Although it would be unusual for both of these to go bad at the same time,
it is possible both are worn enough to where when one craps out the other can't
pull the load, I would think this would cause an issue on one side more than the other...

However, there is one or two c-clips on the axles that lead to it, right to the inside of the frame bearing
to hold in place... If either or both of these clips are missing it can give the axle shaft enough play to where
the splined couplings separate just enough to create gear slip on the transmission end.
Obviously this also wears the crap out of the gears, a problem like this gets worse, fast.
Check for these clips, also check the frame bearing for wear.

The outer pulleys themselves are also keyed, make sure the outer pulley keys are good, another hex bolt.
Not so much, I don't think, responsible for your problem.

But as a part of what you're fixing to go through, ALL of this is worth inspecting.

[topsites]

Specifically, and unfortunately this is a mix of two pictures
so for instance part 3 actually points to several things but
I believe it still serves the purpose just be aware that one
number may correspond to several parts.

And you'll want to inspect parts 1, 2, 3, 4, 4A, 5 in BOTH pictures
and 6 as it refers to the bottom pulley (not the control rod parts).

1 is the idler wheel (which has a bearing) and also the transmission
2 is the splined coupling and also the belt
3 is the outer axle shafts and the bottom pulley also the outer pulleys although I believe it refers to a key
4 is the engine pulley and also the outer shaft frame bearing
4A is the frame bearing housing, which bolts onto the frame (and I am not sure if it's called a frame bearing lol that just what I call it)
5 is the tensioner pulley and also it looks to be that little clip
6 is the bottom pulley and not sure about the other part(s).

Yes, any one or more of these parts not in good working order can and will cause slip or skip.
Believe me, I KNOW :p

[davidcalhoun]

No problems getting the transmission off. Just a lot of stuff to remove on the mower to get to the transmission's pulley and attachment bolts. Glad I could pull a parts manual from Exmark's site.

Got the transmission apart OK except for one glitch. I'm having trouble gettting the stubborn woodruff key out of the shaft that held the pulley on. I soaked it in PB Blaster and used some vice grips on it to no avail. I have whapped it on one end and nothing. I don't think I can hammer on it with a punch (too much play and no way to hold the shaft firmly while trying this). Can't pry it with side cuts. Maybe some heat on the shaft??????

Any other methods you might recommed?

[Tharrell]

Hi David, maybe I missed it but, do you HAVE to take the pulley off? Is it the pulley gear that needs replaced? Tony

[ed2hess]

Here's the 4 pages from the manual that deal with your transmission in particular. If you want, I can send you the entire manual-it's in pdf. Tony

btw-You can get an exploded view from J-Thomas website.

Don't know if you are still around but I would like a copy of the entire manual for the H700-070A peerless transmission.

[BigFish]

Try this place: http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Peerless-Tecumseh-Transmissions-Transaxles-Differentials-Gear-Boxs/
They're good people to deal with.