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IMAGE
09-25-2008, 12:10 AM
Whats all involved in a house demo w/foundation removal?

Basically just come in with a big ex w/thumb and start smashing and breaking the house up.... then load it up in trucks and haul it to the dump?


I have the oppertunity to bid on 2 of these... both OLD farm houses. One jobsite also has a barn and some small outbuildings that has to be removed also.

Thanks!:usflag:

coopers
09-25-2008, 12:14 AM
Just curious, how are you going to bid on a job you're not familiar with?

IMAGE
09-25-2008, 12:17 AM
Have you never done anything for the first time before?

I am here to learn. I have time to learn before its due. Most all of the job would be subbed out to equipment owner/operators. Just want to figure a few things out before I put a price on it.

RockSet N' Grade
09-25-2008, 12:28 AM
house demo here for the house is $2.oo a sq. ft. . If you have a basement, check out the basement and figure out yardage/tonnage and how much it will cost you to dump. How far is the dump from your site? That plays a large part in trucking cost/bid price. And yea, you can do it with an excavator or something like a 977 loader....but I prefer the excavator method. Make sure the guys know there is a basement........its fun to watch, but not really cost effective, when a guy goes in to smash the pile on the slab to get ready to load out and falls right through the floor into the basement. It happens.....

coopers
09-25-2008, 12:30 AM
Well if you have time that makes a bit of a difference...it sounded like you were throwing out this question as you were on your way to do the bid basically. If you're going to be subbing this out to someone else then why bid on it? What would your role be if you didn't do the machine work? I'm confused on that, sorry....

At any rate, be mindful of permits and such with the demo, be aware of gas lines and hookups, power and water etc. Make sure all permits are in order and that everything is marked and turned off so you don't cause a huge problem for yourself and others. Get an idea as to who will take everything that comes out of a house, you don't want to load a truck up and guess that some one will take the debris. Trucking fees and distance is something to look into and an excavator is probably the more efficient. I was going to do a small house demo with a 120 and that would have done very nicely.

Scag48
09-25-2008, 12:50 AM
There are many regulations with demo depending on where you live. Some places are pretty lax and don't require much, if anything. Other places, however, require that the structure must be deemed free of asbestos and while the demo is in progress, the structure must be sprayed with water at all times.

So, once you have the house down, you need to figure out where to send the debris. If you can throw all your debris in cans and send them on their way, sweet. Some places, however, will not take everything and you'll have to be picking and choosing what material goes in what can to get where it's supposed to go.

IMAGE
09-25-2008, 01:03 AM
Thanks for the constructive replies guys.

Coopers - My role would be Prime Contractor. These demo jobs are on govt land that is being reclaimed to nature. Facilitator might be a good way to put it. If I decide to bid it, it wont be cheap, there will be a nice profit involved. This would be my role.

There is alot to the job: demo and removal of the houses, demo and removal of barn w/footings, removal of pile of asbestos siding from one jobsite (I believe our landfill takes asbestos, but charges 3x normal for it- something I will figure out), other outbuildings, finish grading and reclaiming to help nature take over.

Rockset- is that price just for the demo? Hauling/dump fees must be extra with that price.

Thanks for the thoughts on hauling/dumping costs. I will look into that. I will also check on permits required.

ksss
09-25-2008, 01:27 AM
Some of the most difficult foundations I have torn out were old farm house type. Sometimes there is nothing to them and they are easy money. I have run into some however that were reinforced with heavy cable. They threw whatever was available into the concrete. Makes it interesting if nothing else. With the right equipment, its nothing that cant be overcome if you should run into something like that.

Sounds like a cool job. Be sure you cover everything, and make sure your subcontractors are legit and your good to go.

Dirt Digger2
09-25-2008, 01:32 AM
old farm houses have stone foundations...go out and look at the site first and foremost...you may be able to sell the stone to a local mason

problem with old houses is there is so much unknown...i'll leave it at that, if i were to go into the things you might encounter you would never want to take the risk in the first place

Dirt Digger2
09-25-2008, 01:34 AM
as far as asbestos you need to be qualified and licensed to remove it...i think its a bunch of crap, but other people higher up don't think so

you might be able to remove it yourself on a Sunday or something...haha...but don't you dare let your employees touch it or that is a lawsuit waiting to happen

RockSet N' Grade
09-25-2008, 01:40 AM
Asbestos you say?? That's where you pay the guys in little white paper suits that cover everything in plastic, water everything down with hudson bug sprayers, have an air monitor outside and you pay them HUGE money to dispose of it properly. It is a kick to watch and chuckle at these low end hazmat guys, but there is huge money to be made there and don't you dare short cut that process because the fines are horrendous!

Scag48
09-25-2008, 01:47 AM
Uh yeah, you can't just go in, throw asbestos in a can, and send it off to any old dump for 3 times the price.

Hazmat work is no fun, that's why it's expensive as hell. If you've never been in a class A suit with full SCBA, try it sometime. I volunteered to suit up at my 40 hour HAZWOPER course earlier this spring, not much fun. Hot, can't move around worth a damn, and you may or may not be carrying an air bottle around depending on the type of facemask you're running. Then you're paranoid all day that you might become contaminated through some fluke. If you're carrying a bottle, you gotta pay attention to how long it'll last. Escape bottles are good for 5 minutes, that ain't long enough to get through de-con in most cases. Just a wad of stress invovled with hazmat work. I dunno, I'm trained to work on those jobs, but given a choice I'd rather not.

ksss
09-25-2008, 02:01 AM
Uh yeah, you can't just go in, throw asbestos in a can, and send it off to any old dump for 3 times the price.

Hazmat work is no fun, that's why it's expensive as hell. If you've never been in a class A suit with full SCBA, try it sometime. I volunteered to suit up at my 40 hour HAZWOPER course earlier this spring, not much fun. Hot, can't move around worth a damn, and you may or may not be carrying an air bottle around depending on the type of facemask you're running. Then you're paranoid all day that you might become contaminated through some fluke. If you're carrying a bottle, you gotta pay attention to how long it'll last. Escape bottles are good for 5 minutes, that ain't long enough to get through de-con in most cases. Just a wad of stress invovled with hazmat work. I dunno, I'm trained to work on those jobs, but given a choice I'd rather not.

You will never get through decon in 5 min. If your in a level A than your in some bad sh!t. You have to use the buddy system and who ever is running the team has to be on the stop watch. If you suck air fast, you could find yourself doing your best imitation of a cat in bag. The APRs a little better, but like you said you are putting a lot of faith in those filters. If you follow the rules you will in all likely hood be just fine, but bad things happen under the best of circumstances, cut corners in Hazmat and someone gets hurt, you wont soon be able to finiance a cup of coffee if its your baby.

IMAGE
09-25-2008, 02:10 AM
Asbestos you say?? That's where you pay the guys in little white paper suits that cover everything in plastic, water everything down with hudson bug sprayers, have an air monitor outside and you pay them HUGE money to dispose of it properly. It is a kick to watch and chuckle at these low end hazmat guys, but there is huge money to be made there and don't you dare short cut that process because the fines are horrendous!


City of MYTOWN Landfill rates
The following rates took effect August 1, 2006:

All landfill waste
$30/ton

Minimum Charge
(i.e. residents hauling waste to landfill)
$10/load

Separated demolition material (free of debris)
$25/ton

Special handling (asbestos, contaminated soil)
$30/ton, $100 minimum

Contaminated soil, free of debris
$25/ton, $100 minimum

Since its described as "smile pile of asbestos siding" I think I could do as suggested and do remove it on a weekend and haul it to the dump. Probally use my personal(non lettered) truck to be safe.

ksss
09-25-2008, 02:23 AM
City of MYTOWN Landfill rates
The following rates took effect August 1, 2006:

All landfill waste
$30/ton

Minimum Charge
(i.e. residents hauling waste to landfill)
$10/load

Separated demolition material (free of debris)
$25/ton

Special handling (asbestos, contaminated soil)
$30/ton, $100 minimum

Contaminated soil, free of debris
$25/ton, $100 minimum

Since its described as "smile pile of asbestos siding" I think I could do as suggested and do remove it on a weekend and haul it to the dump. Probally use my personal(non lettered) truck to be safe.


Is that Fargo, ND?

Interesting. I would find a place to dump at least the concrete that did not involve the City. There certainly has to be a farmer with hole to fill, that would let you dump the concrete in. The remainder would best go to the dump for liability reasons. However the concrete can really add up at 30 dollars a ton. Depending on the size of the project it can sometimes be cost effective to have a shredder on site. Sometimes that can be sold or recycled and avoid the dump altogether.

Gravel Rat
09-25-2008, 03:22 AM
All I can say is burn baby burn. If you have a fire dept interested in fire practice burning the house is the easiest method of removal. Once its burnt you can take a excavator and start picking out the stuff that didn't burn and tear out the foundation.

In my area you have to gut the whole house by hand wood debris has to be clean and metal has to be separated out. Or a contractor can have the fire dept burn the house. One place the fire dept did burned so hot they couldn't even practice on it just kept the shooting flames down.

AWJ Services
09-25-2008, 08:02 AM
Asbestos here has too be have 10 mil of plastic around it and the dumps take a life history of who ever is leaving it at the dump.
I personally would sub the asbestos out.
Demo work pays good here.
Way more than 2.00 dollars a sq/ft.
I use rolloffs( 30 yd) cans.The dumps are often a good ways from the jobsites and you have too uses different dumps for different materials.
Concrete can usually be dumped for next too nothing if it is clean.
You would need 4 or 5 dump trucks too keep up with loading if you where in any hurry.The last one I did was 30 miles from the nearest dump.

Here a 1500 sq/ft house will pay 5k too 10k depending on materials and location.
As has been mentioned ask for proof of all utility termination .
If you do not have access too large equipment you can uses cables too pull the structure down and once on the ground a skid steer with a grapple can really load in a hurry.

howierd3866
09-25-2008, 08:54 AM
here in Fla you must be a G.C. just to pull the permits...and I agree with everyone else answers

CAT powered
09-26-2008, 04:23 PM
I'm going to doubt you have a demolition license if you're asking these questions.
I don't know exactly what you need around there, but if you're doing demolition for hire around here you need a demolition license and I'll tell you that from my experience they're not easy to get.

RockSet N' Grade
09-26-2008, 11:30 PM
awj.......next demo you bid, bid it out your way and then calc out the square footage and see what the price is......share if you would please....