27 Volts to Clutch!!!! Kohler CV15T

[TxLawn]

Good Afternoon everybody. I have a CV15T that is blowing fuses. Not electric start. It will only blow fuses when engaing the blades.
LAst night it blew 4 fuses and then worked fine and never blew another one. Go out this morning and turn on the blades and starts blowing them again. I have ohmed the clutch pigtail to the clutch body and it checks ok. If I Ohm both wires from the clutch I get 0.001 ohms. I think I read should have a reading of 2.6 to 3.5. And after disconnecting the clutch I get a reading of 27 volts going to the clutch harness. Could the high voltage be causing my fuses to blow? And to add to that my ignition switch is not working now? Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestion's!!

[S DIAMOND]

If I Ohm both wires from the clutch I get 0.001 ohms.

You’re right; the clutch winding(s) is/are internally shorted. If your second reading of each clutch pin (done separately) to the clutch body, reads other than infinity, than it’s also shorted to ground.

Could the high voltage be causing my fuses to blow?

The low resistance and thus high current draw is blowing the fuse. Replace the clutch.

...And after disconnecting the clutch I get a reading of 27 volts going to the clutch harness. This reads as a seperate problem; reads as if you are getting a "direct" or unregulated voltage from the stator? Are you using DC or AC setting?

[viper00085]

27 volts is not abnormal. It is called an un-regulated charging system since you dont have a battery/electric start. I would still be looking elsewhere than the engine side of things. looks for shorts, bad/loose grounds or arcing in the fuse or any connectors. If you test the clutch, (both leads coming out of the clutch while unplugged from the units harness) you should read between 2.5-3.6 ohms. If you are reading .001 that means you have almost perfect continuty between the 2 wires thru the clutch and thats a bad thing (windings,etc bad inside the clutch). if so its probably the clutch causing the issues. Another quick test is to keep the clutch unplugged from the harness and work the rest of the system. Engage the blade switch a bunch of times or let it run for a while and see what happens the the fuses, wiring. IF it still blows or heats up, you kinda have eliminated the clutch, look at the rest of the system.. If it does not act up, prolly is the clutch

Now with also the ign switch acting up, it may be indicating a ground or wiring/connection issue. Time to start tracing down and checking wires to ground and resistance to see if anything is out whack or talking to each other when they shouldnt be. Check your ign switch real well were the plug connects to it. If you see alot of corrosion on the switch tangs and the center rotating pin area, the switch may be alot of the problem also (connections talking to each other)

good luck and let us know what happens

[TxLawn]

Ok I have detemined that I have a bad clutch. Thanks for the info you have supplied me. When I check the voltage from the stator I have 48v AC and 0 DC. Power going to the clutch I am now getting a reading of 21vDC and 20-26 AC.
Not sure which I should be using thats why I have listed both. It doesnt blow fuses unless I have the clutch plugged in. BUt I am wondering If to much voltage is going to the clutch and caused it to go bad. Thanks for any more help or suggestions you might have!!!

[kawasaki1]

after you install a new clutch check the voltage going to it with the blades engaged.

if it's above 15 volts dc check all connections. if they're good install a new regulator (and capacitor if so equipped) and check voltage again.

the ignition problem sounds like a bad connection/switch.

the stator puts out ac current and a diode or regulator/rectifier changes it to dc.

[viper00085]

your voltage should be fine and nornal for cv15 kohler on a unregulated system. I have seen as high a 32 volts dc on some tractors, scag, toro,etc walk behinds. Its fine for a unregulated system, clutches work more off amps than volts anyways. Amps are actually what kill/damage things, volts is just the pressure force behind them. Most warner or orgura clutches only need 3-5 amps to engage and operate, and without a battery (load cell) in the system they have to have that excess voltage/power to take up the load and function properly.

replace the clutch and you should be fine, might have just been its time to go. Lately we have only been seeing clutches last 500-900 hour range.

[TxLawn]

I believe my regulator is good. I have 48v to it and 13.5 to 14 from B+ to either AC on the rectifier coming out. BUt I dont understand how I can have that going out of it and 20v going to clutch.

[kawasaki1]

start and run the engine at full throttle.

put your red test lead on the b+ of the regulator. ground the black test lead to the engine or frame. that'll give you the regulated voltage output.

we've been seeing clutches go out as soon as 200 hrs. usually it's the upper bearing and most of the bearings have been made in china.

[TxLawn]

Anybody else want to add anything? Thanks Again

[TxLawn]

Thanks for your info on the 27v to Kohler clutch. I did what you said with the meter with putting the red lead on B+ and the other on the block and I get a reading of 35DC v and 18AC volts.
When plug the 3way plug on the regulator these are the reading I get:
Left AC to B+ and or AC= 48volts AC NO DC
When I go from B+ to the AC terminal on right side I get .004AC NO DC

With the 3way plug unplugged from the rectifier these are the readings that I got:
AC to AC= 48v
B+ to either AC= 14 volts

Does this sound correct?

[viper00085]

the are really only 2 test for stator/regulator output and then a continuty test for shorts to ground.

Put your red lead on a white wire or tang on the reg (A+) then your black lead on the other white wire/tang (c) set meter to AC volts and measure, should be 30+ at full speed.

then as said already, put your red lead on the middle tang/black wire of the regulator (b) and black lead of your meter to good ground (block) and measure for DC voltage. On a regulated 3,5,15 or 25 amp charging system with a battery should be 13.8-14.5 volts of charge. on a unregulated system with out a battery in the loop can be anywhere from 14-35 volts.

Then you can also check for a shorted stator by checking resistance of each white wire coming from the stator to the block. If it does show continuty the stator is shorted to ground somewhere.

In your case, just a bad clutch in my opinion. Slap a new one and she should be good to go.

[TxLawn]

Viper00085 Message Sent!!

[TxLawn]

OK Guys This is my reading to and from rectifier. Maybe it's correct but I dont see how this is possible. Does this sound normal?

When plug the 3way plug on the regulator these are the reading I get:
Left AC to B+ and or AC= 48volts AC NO DC
When I go from B+ to the AC terminal on right side I get .004AC NO DC

With the 3way plug unplugged from the rectifier these are the readings that I got:
AC to AC= 48v
B+ to either AC= 14 volts
All AC nothing on DC

Also when I unplugged from the rectifier I am getting continuity between B+ and the right AC terminal but not left? This is off of the rectifier by itself only..

Does this sound correct or a bad rectifier also?

[BigFish]

Why do you keep playin with the freakin rect./reg. ??? Listen to what viper and others are sayin REPLACE the CLUTCH.
You dont check your alt. output the way your doin it!!!
Slip the plug off the reg. Set yer meter to AC, put either test lead on the two outside WHITE wires(black to white & red to white) should be puttin out 30 volts or so AC with the motor runnin its a$$ off. Then shut er down,slip the plug back on, start er up and with the meter set on DC volts check the B+ terminal (usually red) red meter lead to terminal/wire , black lead to ground/block. Should get 14 plus DC volts.

You shouldn't be gettin cont. between either one of the stator (white) wires and the bat.(B+) wire. You should get a reading Between both stator wires, but not between stato and ground/block.
Check the B+ (unplugged) to ground, should read open with clutch off.

[TxLawn]

Thanks for the advice. Clutch is on the way!!!

[TxLawn]

Clutch replaced. Everything running fine!!! Thanks for the help!!!