Another topdress question- small lawns

[kturner]

I deal exclusively in postage stamp lawns, usually 10x50 or so. What is the best method of applying sand?
I've been told to just shovel it out and then sweep it, but that sounds messy and uneven to me.

Can I use a normal push fert. spreader?

Also, is it best to mow short just before doing this?

Thanks guys.

[BRL]

If you're using commercial grade, the fertilizer spreaders will work fine. Mowing short (maybe scalping?!) before top dressing is probably not necessary, so why put the lawn through that.

[kutnkru]

Im not familiar with the West Coast but I will do here is to core aerate and then run a power rake over the cores.

Possibly this could be an alternative???

[fshrdan]

How most people do it down here is: Cut bermuda to 1/2" or so, core aerate, and then sand. It's still a little early for this right now, but it's a big activity in March and April.

I wouldn't think that a fert spreader would give you the quantities needed for sanding. I would simply shovel it out and brush it. That would probably be the easiest and most efficient way.

[mikey]

hi'
what r u guys talkin about with the sand ive never aerated
b4 so i would like to know how if i ever have to .
can someone wrtie down a step by step process for aerating please?

1
2
3
4

thank u

[65hoss]

For small lawns I aerate first then topdress. When you go back over the lawn to smooth out topdressing it breaks the cores up.

I very seldom recommend sand. People always use sand as a catch all. Honestly, sand is usually what is not needed. Sand causes the water to pentrate very fast and its gone. Sand and clay during drought conditions makes concrete. If you already have a loamy soil, adding sand may make water penetration to fast. Most all lawns are in need of organic matter. A compost builds topsoil. The plant and soil gets the carbon and other nutrients it needs. 95% of the time I put a leaf compost or mushroom compost down.

Its the same principle we use for mulching leaves into the lawn instead of picking them up. One of the main selling points on mulching them is the health of the lawn. Organic matter is the most overlooked but most necessary element to the soil health.

[gogetter]

This may be a dumb question, but what's the purpose of topdressing? If done the way Hoss talked about (using compost) it makes sense, adding nutrients to the soil.

But what is the reason for topdressing with sand? What does it achieve?

Thanks in advance.

[65hoss]

If you have a real bumpy lawn, sand is the easiest way to fix it. A little sand is needed, but topdressing with sand usually puts down more than needed. Also, it takes YEARS to work down into the topsoil.

[visions landscape]

I never have used sand just a good topsoil, rake and spread in. sometimes I roll it also.

[gogetter]

So to simplify, top dressing whether using sand, topsoil, compost, whatever, is only done to smooth out a bumpy lawn for the most part?
And in the case of using compost it has a side benefit of adding nutrients to the soil?

I had searched, but posts were about "how to" rather then "why".
Got it now.

What about pricing, I'm guessing T&M?

Thanks.

[KirbysLawn]

Sand is used around here for warm season grasses for the most part. Topdressing is used for both smoothing a rought lawn or (and important) adding organic matter to soils that are low in CEC's. I am curently looking to buy a topdresser from Millcreak or Earth & Turf to add to my services.

Not only can it be a profitable service it can be very benifical for long term tufm management and survival.

Ray

[fshrdan]

I very seldom recommend sand. People always use sand as a catch all. Honestly, sand is usually what is not needed. Sand causes the water to pentrate very fast and its gone. Sand and clay during drought conditions makes concrete. If you already have a loamy soil, adding sand may make water penetration to fast.

I guess I disagree a little with 65hoss. Why do golf courses topdress(with white sand) their tees and greens about 4 times a year? Sand improves drainage and alleviates thatch most importantly. Since sand holds little water and has low CEC, the turfgrass has to send its roots deeper while the rhizomes/stolons of turfgrass give the sand permanent structure in the profile. The ultimate goal is not to have the sand incorporated in the native soils, but to remain on top.

I don't know much about bluegrass culture, so I don't know the recommendations of northern grasses. Of course, I wouldn't consider topdressing fescue with sand, so the same might apply to the other cool season grasses.

As far as sand+clay=concrete, I'd have to say sand+clay=loam. At least that's how it works when you're using a soil judging triangle.

Check out[URL=http://www.sandsquad.com]. these guys do nothin but topdressing. They have pictures and their methods for both warm and cool season grasses, so check it out.

[kutnkru]

Originally posted by fshrdan
... I don't know much about bluegrass culture, so I don't know the recommendations of northern grasses. ...Not many contractors actually go the extra effort to apply sand, but I have yet to see the courses here locally (we have 11) differentiate from the white sand.

I also asked around and the general census is in favor of the sand just not likely to get Johnny Q. Public to bite. Seems that even though the water may percolate at a faster rate some percolation effect is better than the run-off effects we get from the droughts.

[LAWNGODFATHER]

Sand is used on golf course greens to PROMOTE drainage so palyers don't tear up the turf when walking on it after irrigation or rain.
Yes it may promote roots seeking moisture deeper, but in some areas sand can be your worst enime.

Sand and clay mix and become concrete when dry.

The biggest reason for top dressing is to apply needed soil for an active but not well growing root system. Poor rocky, clay or sandy soils need to have the better soil type put in.

Most of this is blamed on builders, they do not care about a well manicured or heathy turf.

Some grass types may require faster draining soils, and some may require slower draining soils.

Most of this boils down to what soil type you are dealing with per the grass types or sepices. Then conclude the drainage situation.

Now for putting sand out 4 times a year is a little extreem,(I hope it is very little)water goes through sand like it's a drain in a bath tub.
Now they may apply a very small quantity of sand with a much larger quantity of top soil. Bermuda does love sandy soils, but some where you have to have some soil to hold in the nutients, and moisture.

Also we are talking about not so closely monatered places like home lawns and commercial office parks and such. This one is very hard to include what a golf course does. They are so closely watched.

[kturner]

Yeah, my two biggest reasons: waterlogged lawn and thatch developing.

I just haven't determined how much to apply or the quickest way. Remember, we're talking very small lawns here, not even worth renting a spreader.

Is there a difference between tube sand and white sand?