A little help needed ASAP!

[stevenf]

I have an echo long shaft hedge trimmer that someone gave to me. It was working perfectly fine when I used it about a year ago. since then it has been sitting on his trailer rack and never used. He said he couldnt get it running and didnt need it enough to figure out whats wrong so gave it to me. I changed the spark plug and it started just fine, however, it wouldnt go full throttle. When I gave it gas, it would shut off. I cleaned the exhaust screen and that didnt help. I rebuilt the carburetor and it got worse. Now it will only stay running while the choke is on. when I turn the choke off, it revs up really high and shuts off. I have adjusted the throttle screw as needed but that didnt help either. What could the problem be?

Also, My BP blower exhaust bolts broke off inside the block. I got one of them out but cant get the other. that one bolt isnt holding the exhaust on so I need some lock-tite stuff to put on the bolt. What would you recommend that would hold up to the exhaust temperatures?

[Phil G]

[QUOTE=stevenf;2582848]I have an echo long shaft hedge trimmer that someone gave to me. It was working perfectly fine when I used it about a year ago. since then it has been sitting on his trailer rack and never used. He said he couldnt get it running and didnt need it enough to figure out whats wrong so gave it to me. I changed the spark plug and it started just fine, however, it wouldnt go full throttle. When I gave it gas, it would shut off. I cleaned the exhaust screen and that didnt help. I rebuilt the carburetor and it got worse. Now it will only stay running while the choke is on. when I turn the choke off, it revs up really high and shuts off. I have adjusted the throttle screw as needed but that didnt help either. What could the problem be?
QUOTE]



If I were you I'd get a carb rebuild kit, new diaphragms and gaskets etc. Should not cost too much.

When you've refitted set the main jet adjuster to 1 3/4 turn out and the same for the low jet. This setting should get it running. Then fine tune.


As for the broken bolt, best to have it drilled out, lousey job to do:dizzy:


Good luck, Phil

[stevenf]

1st-I already rebuilt the carburetor on the hedge trimmer.


2nd- I tried drilling out that bolt but I couldnt getit. The bit extractor broke off inside the bolt. I sent it to a dealer and they said they couldnt get it. Then I brought it to a machine shop and they said they couldnt get it. im just going to have to make one bolt work because a new cylinder head is like $90.00

[EMJ]

Sound like fuel on the hedge trimmer. I would re rebuild the carb. Make sure everything is clean throughly and put back together right.

[4.3mudder]

The lever that is inside the carb that opens and closes the needle has to be properly adjusted. I don't know on some carbs, but end of the lever has to be a specific height. It has to be able to operate the diaphram for fuel and also operate the needle to specific points. What kind of carb brand is it?

[echoman8]

1st-I already rebuilt the carburetor on the hedge trimmer.


2nd- I tried drilling out that bolt but I couldnt getit. The bit extractor broke off inside the bolt. I sent it to a dealer and they said they couldnt get it. Then I brought it to a machine shop and they said they couldnt get it. im just going to have to make one bolt work because a new cylinder head is like $90.00

HI,

Sounds like bad luck on the bp blower. The loctite that I use is permatex red. I don't know the product number, but most auto parts and hardware stores have it here.

The hc (hedge clipper) must have a restriction of fuel or an air leak. Either of which can cause the trimmer to run lean.

Restriction of fuel: Fuel filter in the gas tank (I have had no luck cleaning these so I replace them), clogged screen inside the carb (tiny and sometimes gets a shellac film on it), piece of crud between the screen and the needle (rare), needle not opening enough (bend metering lever tab).

Air leak: Any gasket or seal from the carb and especially surrounding the crankcase. The crankcase must be completely sealed to create a vacuum which draws your fuel/air mix into the motor. A cracked fuel hose (or pin hole).

Also the small hole going through the carb cylinder (to the crankcase) must be clear. The gasket must be aligned for the hole to line up with a matching hole (or slot) on the carb. This pulses the diaphragms from the crankcase vacuum and compression thus pumping and metering the fuel.

A stopped up vent or gas cap can cause a motor to run lean, but it takes a few minutes to develop.

If it will not run at all after warming up, then, I would bet on the motor being worn out on the bottom side of the cylinder. Damage on the lower end of the cylinder prevents the draw of fuel from the carb because the motor cannot create sufficient crankcase vacuum.

Good luck,
echoman

[stevenf]

Very helpful, Thanks!
How many hours should I expect a shop to work on this problem? I am going to try a few things that you suggested but I need this thing running good asap!

[echoman8]

Very helpful, Thanks!
How many hours should I expect a shop to work on this problem? I am going to try a few things that you suggested but I need this thing running good asap!

How long?

It is interesting that you ask this question.

My best answer is that they should not charge for more than 2.5 hours. In that time the motor can be completely rebuilt (within reason).

The truth is that of all the mechanics that worked for me (myself included) have gotten hung up on diagnosing a 2 cycle engine and lost a whole day or more. Most of the time it from a motor that ran ok when cold then would run lean (of fail to run) when the motor warmed.

In addition, innumerable 2 cycle engines are tuned that have bad motors (lower end). They are not tested long enough for the motor to expand. The customer picks it up and it will only run when cool.


I have had chainsaws with 130+psi that would not run (when warm) because the lower part of the engine was damaged/worn.

I still think you have a carb problem and 1 hour should be reasonable.

echoman

[echoman8]

The lever that is inside the carb that opens and closes the needle has to be properly adjusted. I don't know on some carbs, but end of the lever has to be a specific height. It has to be able to operate the diaphram for fuel and also operate the needle to specific points. What kind of carb brand is it?

Hi,

I have had good luck bending the metering lever tab so that during its movement, it begins opening the needle at about the half way point.

I find many carbs now (and the carb kit parts) do not open the needle until about three fourths movement. When reajusted, I think the motor will start easier and warm quicker at the half setting.

Good luck,
echoman

[stevenf]

How universal are Echo engines and shafts? I have a SRM-210 trimmer that Ihardly ever use. I would like to put the 210 engine on the hedge trimmer for a while before I put it in a shop.

[topsites]

1st-I already rebuilt the carburetor on the hedge trimmer.


2nd- I tried drilling out that bolt but I couldnt getit. The bit extractor broke off inside the bolt. I sent it to a dealer and they said they couldnt get it. Then I brought it to a machine shop and they said they couldnt get it. im just going to have to make one bolt work because a new cylinder head is like $90.00

I am wondering if you can drill a small 1/2-inch or so hole exactly where that
bolt is stuck, then use a longer self-tapping screw if that would work, or even
a sheet metal screw thou it might strip...
Another idea would be to thread the hole after it is bored, then use a bolt.
That is, make a new hole.

But I don't know for sure, if it would work.

[punt66]

BUY A NEW CARB. Those small passages can be difficult to clean. Dont pay a shop hourly to fix it. Buy a carb and bolt it on. Problem solved.

[punt66]

I am wondering if you can drill a small 1/2-inch or so hole exactly where that
bolt is stuck, then use a longer self-tapping screw if that would work, or even
a sheet metal screw thou it might strip...
Another idea would be to thread the hole after it is bored, then use a bolt.
That is, make a new hole.

But I don't know for sure, if it would work.

he said the extracter broke off inside the broken bolt. Extractors are hardened steel and difficult to drill without the bit wondering. If he had drilled and tapped before he broke it off that may have worked.

[echoman8]

How universal are Echo engines and shafts? I have a SRM-210 trimmer that Ihardly ever use. I would like to put the 210 engine on the hedge trimmer for a while before I put it in a shop.

Good morning stevenf,

Another good question. I run practically all echo and the interchange of engines and parts is one if not the most important reason of all. From at least 1985 to near the present, motor will freely change from one shaft to the next in the 21cc and 24cc models. Even better the long block will work on :: blower, trimmer, hedge trimmer, water pump, sprayer, and on and on.

So yes, they are interchangeable. You will notice a loss of power if you replace a 24cc with a 21cc, but it still should get the job done.

echoman

[stevenf]

Topsite: After the bit extractor broke off inside it, I tried drilling it out for about 15 minutes with absolutley NO progress.

Echoman: Woulds carbs be interchangable if the bolt holes align properly? I dont see why it wouldnt.....

[echoman8]

Topsite: After the bit extractor broke off inside it, I tried drilling it out for about 15 minutes with absolutley NO progress.

Echoman: Woulds carbs be interchangable if the bolt holes align properly? I dont see why it wouldnt.....

Yes, the carbs are interchangeable. Even the old ones without the purge pump (bulb) will fit and work until very new models (linkage different).

Good luck,
echoman