what should i do to my trailers over the winter as far as maintenance?

[Right Touch]

ive got two enclosed trailers- a 6x12 single axle no brakes and 8.5x20 dual axle with brakes. Just wondering (since the dealership gives no users manuals) what should I do to the trailers over the winter as far as maintenance goes. I hear repack the bearings, check the brakes and some other stuff though I am not sure how to do these things. Is there a general trailer manual out there somewhere to teach me these things? I wash and wax my trailers at least twice a year to keep them looking new, but also want them to run like new for a long time.

[punt66]

ive got two enclosed trailers- a 6x12 single axle no brakes and 8.5x20 dual axle with brakes. Just wondering (since the dealership gives no users manuals) what should I do to the trailers over the winter as far as maintenance goes. I hear repack the bearings, check the brakes and some other stuff though I am not sure how to do these things. Is there a general trailer manual out there somewhere to teach me these things? I wash and wax my trailers at least twice a year to keep them looking new, but also want them to run like new for a long time.


if you dont know how to do it then pay somebody or ask someone you know how to pack the bearings and check your brakes so you will know. Cant tell you from here.

[ovalracer44]

Most trailers have bearing buddies. If not you really don't need to do anything. As long as its not a boat trailer you are not hurting the grease already in the hub.

Mainly spray oil on the hinges and door latches. Making sure these work with little resistance is imperative. If not the door can twist or the latch can twist and not seal properly.

Keep the outside clean and waxed. I have a trailer I neglected a while and am now hating life trying to get the mold that grows in the paint off.

Check all the bolts and screws. These are terrible for coming loose.

[LushGreenLawn]

Most trailers have bearing buddies. If not you really don't need to do anything. As long as its not a boat trailer you are not hurting the grease already in the hub.

Mainly spray oil on the hinges and door latches. Making sure these work with little resistance is imperative. If not the door can twist or the latch can twist and not seal properly.

Keep the outside clean and waxed. I have a trailer I neglected a while and am now hating life trying to get the mold that grows in the paint off.

Check all the bolts and screws. These are terrible for coming loose.

This is incorrect, you should pack the bearings if you don't have bearing buddies (Or any other brand if cap with a grease fitting). Grease breaks down over time at high speeds just like oil. I have seen guys run the wheels completley off the trailer because they neglected to pack the bearings for a long time.

[ovalracer44]

This is incorrect, you should pack the bearings if you don't have bearing buddies (Or any other brand if cap with a grease fitting). Grease breaks down over time at high speeds just like oil. I have seen guys run the wheels completley off the trailer because they neglected to pack the bearings for a long time.

As long as he does it with the same frequency as he is going rotors on his trucks he is fine. Doing it every year is complete overkill.

[Richard Martin]

The problem with most trailer bearings is no one ever adjusts them. They tend to get loose over time just like any other vehicle. They should be checked and adjusted at least yearly.

You should also check the emergency brake activator and battery. This only applies if your trailer has brakes.

[punt66]

The problem with most trailer bearings is no one ever adjusts them. They tend to get loose over time just like any other vehicle. They should be checked and adjusted at least yearly.

You should also check the emergency brake activator and battery. This only applies if your trailer has brakes.

Thats correct. Thats the most important part of maintenance. Thats why i dont like bearing buddies.

[ovalracer44]

Thats correct. Thats the most important part of maintenance. Thats why i dont like bearing buddies.

I should have noted that adjustment is necessary and not greasing.

What is hard on trailer wheel bearings is turning. Not rotation of the tire.

Single tire trailers don't really see this problem as much but dual and triple axle trailers are worst. On dual axle trailers check the rear hubs more often and on triple axle trailers check the front and rear tires. The centers never see as much wear.

No amount of greasing will take up the wear in bearings. if you are going to spend the time to tear them down to grease you might as well put new bearings and races in. greasing a worn bearing is like pissin in your boot. It feels like its raining but nothing good is happening.

[punt66]

I should have noted that adjustment is necessary and not greasing.

What is hard on trailer wheel bearings is turning. Not rotation of the tire.

Single tire trailers don't really see this problem as much but dual and triple axle trailers are worst. On dual axle trailers check the rear hubs more often and on triple axle trailers check the front and rear tires. The centers never see as much wear.

No amount of greasing will take up the wear in bearings. if you are going to spend the time to tear them down to grease you might as well put new bearings and races in. greasing a worn bearing is like pissin in your boot. It feels like its raining but nothing good is happening.

what? You disassemble repack the bearings, reassemble with proper adjustment nd your done. There is no need to replace bearings unless there is excessive wearing. It should be done at least once a year and if you do that you wont see excessive wear.

[DFLS]

Some WD-40 (or other) on all the axle linkages and springs helps. If you do any work after an early snowstorm and there is salt on the road then you have to wash off the underside especially the bushings / springs and oil them.

Even with bearing buddies the hubs still need to be repacked. With the bearing buddies the grease usually goes where it wants to - not where it is needed.

Put the trailer frame up on blocks to take the load off the suspension and tires.

[topsites]

The thing about routine maintenance is I am beginning to believe there is no
such thing as too often, but there is such a thing as not often enough.

Not including the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' repairs, that is :p

As long as he does it with the same frequency as he is going rotors on his trucks he is fine. Doing it every year is complete overkill.

So is changing my spark plugs every 10,000 miles, then again I almost never have a miss-fire related problem.
And if I do it ain't the plugs, it ain't the wires, and it ain't the cap and rotor.
Now it could be the coil, but the $140 I spend on that every year guarantees it ain't none of them trifles.

Yeah, it could still happen, but figure the odds.

It's just that thing, if it doesn't cost a lot and I can do it myself, I do all KINDS
of stuff in the winter to my equipment and my vehicles.
I throw anywhere from several hundred to a few thousand dollars worth of parts at my stuff, most is DIY.
And they might have some problems, but those parts that I replace is well worth the effort of not having
down time related to that, other things might break so it doesn't save me all the time but save my tail it does.

Because on other occasions, were it not for the winter maintenance there are some things
would never get done, that alone is worth it, even if yearly is overkill.

Not to mention it keeps me busy for a couple of weeks, most any productive work during those idle months is good.

[LushGreenLawn]

For the average homeowner, once a year is a little much, but the landscape professional who is on the road 5 days a week? Once a year is pushing it.

There is no need to replace bearings if they are not work, and if they are taken care of, they will last for years.

I've been around trailers all my life, a very close family member owns a very large trailer dealership (largest on the east cost), and I've seen alot of problems and damage that could have been fixed with a little maintenance.

[ovalracer44]

what? You disassemble repack the bearings, reassemble with proper adjustment nd your done. There is no need to replace bearings unless there is excessive wearing. It should be done at least once a year and if you do that you wont see excessive wear.

The carriage between the rollers is what is taking the abuse. no amount of grease is going to fix that.

That is what kills a bearing. The carriage tears up and all the rollers go to one side and that doesn't last long.

You can pack a bucket of grease in the bearing and that will not stop the carriage from being stressed on turns.

[ovalracer44]

So is changing my spark plugs every 10,000 miles, then again I almost never have a miss-fire related problem.


This is just stupid topsites. New plugs are designed for 75,000 miles.

Thats like changing brake pads every 2500 miles when you can easily go 25,000 miles on brake pads, even on a work truck.

Bet you still think changing oil at 3,000 miles on the dot is the rule.

Even cheapo oil will go for 4,500. Spend on synthetic and go 6,500 in your work truck.

Amsoil makes a 12,000 mile oil if you use their filter.

Do you change a tire with 3/4 rubber because it might get a nail in it?

There is a big difference between maintenance and throwing good money after bad.

It amazes me the people that are penny wise and a pound foolish.

[johnnybravo8802]

This is just stupid topsites. New plugs are designed for 75,000 miles.

Thats like changing brake pads every 2500 miles when you can easily go 25,000 miles on brake pads, even on a work truck.

Bet you still think changing oil at 3,000 miles on the dot is the rule.

Even cheapo oil will go for 4,500. Spend on synthetic and go 6,500 in your work truck.

Amsoil makes a 12,000 mile oil if you use their filter.

Do you change a tire with 3/4 rubber because it might get a nail in it?

There is a big difference between maintenance and throwing good money after bad.

It amazes me the people that are penny wise and a pound foolish.
All this time, I was thinking we mowed lawns for a living. I don't know how anyone has the money to do that kind of maintenance. If I had that kind of money, I would do it but I don't. I barely have the money or time to get the oil changed in my truck. If I did all the maintenance Dodge recommends at certain mileage, I'd be broke.:dizzy:

[punt66]

The carriage between the rollers is what is taking the abuse. no amount of grease is going to fix that.

That is what kills a bearing. The carriage tears up and all the rollers go to one side and that doesn't last long.

You can pack a bucket of grease in the bearing and that will not stop the carriage from being stressed on turns.

If you do the maintenance properly which you obviously dont because according to your post just squirt grease into a bearing budddy. That doesnt pack the bearing and put grease where it belongs. Repacking a bearing does 2 things.
1. pushes the old dirty grease out of the bearing to avoid wear from dirt.
2. relubricates the bearings and hence the races.

If you maintained it properly you wont get the wear you speak of. try it someday and easy on the bad advice my friend.

[ovalracer44]

If you maintained it properly you wont get the wear you speak of. try it someday and easy on the bad advice my friend.

Read my posts again and you will understand what I am saying gets damaged.

No amount of grease will fix a stressed carrier. None Zip. Nada.

[AmsoilPower]

All this time, I was thinking we mowed lawns for a living. I don't know how anyone has the money to do that kind of maintenance. If I had that kind of money, I would do it but I don't. I barely have the money or time to get the oil changed in my truck. If I did all the maintenance Dodge recommends at certain mileage, I'd be broke.:dizzy:

You sound like a great candidate for switching over to Amsoil so you don't have to change your oil so often.

[AI Inc]

This is just stupid topsites. New plugs are designed for 75,000 miles.



.

Try getting them out with 75,000 miles on em. If nothing else , pull em and put em back in.

[punt66]

Read my posts again and you will understand what I am saying gets damaged.

No amount of grease will fix a stressed carrier. None Zip. Nada.

i understand exactly what your saying. and as a former ase certified master mechanic i can tell you that excessive wear to the point you describe can be avoided with proper maintenace. Squiring grease in a bearing buddy isnt proper maintenance. So im not suprised you have seen excessive wear.

[LushGreenLawn]

The carriage between the rollers is what is taking the abuse. no amount of grease is going to fix that.

That is what kills a bearing. The carriage tears up and all the rollers go to one side and that doesn't last long.

You can pack a bucket of grease in the bearing and that will not stop the carriage from being stressed on turns.

The grease is there to lessen the friction on the bearing. Grease won't fix a damaged carriage, but it will prevent it from being damaged in the first place. Yes, there is tremendous pressure on the carriage when turning, but the friction is minimized. I'm not saying they will never need to be replaced, but not every time you re-pack the bearings. At the dealership, they inspect the bearings for wear, and offer replacement if there is any.


If what you are saying is correct, then we don't need grease in bearings, why bother, if it does not prevent any damage? Just run them dry.

[seabee1]

here is a pdf on a enclosed trailer owner's and maintenance ,might give you some insight ! http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/media/pdf/ENCLMAN_OM.pdf:)

[ovalracer44]

i understand exactly what your saying. and as a former ase certified master mechanic i can tell you that excessive wear to the point you describe can be avoided with proper maintenace. Squiring grease in a bearing buddy isnt proper maintenance. So im not suprised you have seen excessive wear.

I don't use bearing buddies in the first place. They leak water.

Its apparent why you are no longer an ASE certified mechanic.

[ovalracer44]

The grease is there to lessen the friction on the bearing. Grease won't fix a damaged carriage, but it will prevent it from being damaged in the first place. Yes, there is tremendous pressure on the carriage when turning, but the friction is minimized. I'm not saying they will never need to be replaced, but not every time you re-pack the bearings. At the dealership, they inspect the bearings for wear, and offer replacement if there is any.

If i put a bearing in a press, packed with grease and exert force in it the friction is minimized, yet I can blow the whole thing to pieces. Once the carrier is strained, and stretched out there is little that greasing will fix at that point.

If what you are saying is correct, then we don't need grease in bearings, why bother, if it does not prevent any damage? Just run them dry.

The grease is to protect the rollers as they roll on the race. It will do absolutely nothing to protect the carriage from wear and stretching during turning.

[punt66]

I don't use bearing buddies in the first place. They leak water.

Its apparent why you are no longer an ASE certified mechanic.

oh? hahha i am no longer because i chose years ago to do something else and renewing my certification wasnt needed. However as a drag racer and my own repairs to everything i own i think i have retained a few things. Proper maintenance and adjustment will allow trailer axle bearings to last longer than i would like to keep any trailer. Lack of maintenace is what strains the bearings. You can argue that until your blue in the face but i have not wore out or replaced any of the bearings in ANY of the trailers i have owned in cluding boat trailers. But hey what do i know.

[ovalracer44]

Yeah what do I know about autos. hmmpf

[punt66]

Yeah what do I know about autos. hmmpf


yea the way you grind cams for more lift. There is a right way and a hack way :nono: No offense. ahhahahttp://www.lawnsite.com/picture.php?albumid=59&pictureid=380http://www.lawnsite.com/picture.php?albumid=59&pictureid=378
http://www.lawnsite.com/picture.php?albumid=59&pictureid=379

Since were sharing :)

[johnnybravo8802]

You sound like a great candidate for switching over to Amsoil so you don't have to change your oil so often.
You're probably right. Honestly, I do get my oil changed every 3,000 miles and am self conscious about it but I really never have the time nor do I like to take the time. What's the cost difference in the amsoil? A standard oil change here is around $21 with labor and supplies. With that in mind, if you were changing 1/4 the time, I'd be looking at an $84 value. I'd like to hear your opinion.

[ovalracer44]

yea the way you grind cams for more lift. There is a right way and a hack way :nono: No offense. ahhaha

Since were sharing :)

No one makes an aftermarket cam for the engine I was building. It was the only way and Guess what, did it without losing any duration.

That was how racing Kart cams were done wayyy back in the day. I was taught how to do it by an old kart racer.

Hmm I see cheap old longwood lateral bars on that mustang. There is a right way and a hack way you know :nono:

You are a drag racer that knows nothing other than buying parts and bolting them together.

Racing technology comes from the circle track world.

[ovalracer44]

You're probably right. Honestly, I do get my oil changed every 3,000 miles and am self conscious about it but I really never have the time nor do I like to take the time. What's the cost difference in the amsoil? A standard oil change here is around $21 with labor and supplies. With that in mind, if you were changing 1/4 the time, I'd be looking at an $84 value. I'd like to hear your opinion.

Standard over the shelf synthetics with a decent fram filter are good for about 5 thousand miles.

Amsoil makes a 12,000 mile oil. You do have to use the amsoil filter though. New synthetic olis are very good.

We used to have to run a 50w oil in the race engines because of clearances. With the new oils I can run a 15 w 30 when its cooler and a 15 w 40 when its hotter. and still have more oil pressure than when we used the 50w.

[punt66]

No one makes an aftermarket cam for the engine I was building. It was the only way and Guess what, did it without losing any duration.

That was how racing Kart cams were done wayyy back in the day. I was taught how to do it by an old kart racer.

Hmm I see cheap old longwood lateral bars on that mustang. There is a right way and a hack way you know :nono:

You are a drag racer that knows nothing other than buying parts and bolting them together.

Racing technology comes from the circle track world.

yea thats an older picture. it has caltraks, full cage and lifts the frond end 3" with a 289. You can see the cage in the pic where its in the garage but of course not the caltraks. 5500 stall, tranny brake, 9" rear with a locker and 4:56 gears.

Circle track world???? hahahha like a rat in a running wheel.

[punt66]

Drag racing is obviously something you dont understand. You do know the cars need to be tuned to run consistently within hundreths and thousands of a second to be competitive right? It all about engineering, math, weather, altitude and alot more things than you obviously dont understand. I didnt make fun of circle guys and for some reason you throw that out there.

[ovalracer44]

Drag racing is obviously something you dont understand. You do know the cars need to be tuned to run consistently within hundreths and thousands of a second to be competitive right? It all about engineering, math, weather, altitude and alot more things than you obviously dont understand. I didnt make fun of circle guys and for some reason you throw that out there.

You called me a hack. I do understand drag racing. Maybe you need to pick up a circle track magazine.

Circle track racing requires everything you listed an more. there is more engineering in any circle track car than any drag car. We have to run consistently within thousandths of seconds. And we have to do it for more than one pass. And do it all without abusing tires, or your car. You couldnt comprehend the engineering in a circle track car.

Think John Forces car has ever been on a 7 post rig? There are more engineers working at 3 of the top Cup teams than all of the drag racing teams.

Drag racing is nothing more than load more motor and tire to it and go fast down the strip.

[punt66]

You called me a hack. I do understand drag racing. Maybe you need to pick up a circle track magazine.

Circle track racing requires everything you listed an more. there is more engineering in any circle track car than any drag car. We have to run consistently within thousandths of seconds. And we have to do it for more than one pass. And do it all without abusing tires, or your car. You couldnt comprehend the engineering in a circle track car.

Think John Forces car has ever been on a 7 post rig? There are more engineers working at 3 of the top Cup teams than all of the drag racing teams.

Drag racing is nothing more than load more motor and tire to it and go fast down the strip.


argue with an idiot you become one my father always said. goodbye

[IndyChad]

I am not sure by now, but I believe this thread was started about maintenance on a trailer. Not racing or car parts or engines.

[johnnybravo8802]

I am not sure by now, but I believe this thread was started about maintenance on a trailer. Not racing or car parts or engines.
I don't know the title of this thread anymore but I do think I could take an oval racer or drag car and rebuild it with my eyes closed right now!!!!:laugh::laugh:

[GravelyNut]

Getting it back on track.

Bearing Buddys never take the place of an annual check of the bearings and retightening. With the newer, grease thru the axles setups, you don't need to repack but you do need to clean, inspect, retighten, and regrease. If you clean the bearings and find them good, regreasing does the same as repacking on Accu-lubes. Running the bearings too loose will damage the bearings more than anything else other than no grease. Electric brakes should be adjusted every 3000 miles. Which means I'm due again. Close to 10K miles on the trailer and tires.