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View Full Version : Ushio 1032 Lamp... Tricks to make it last?


INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting
12-10-2008, 01:08 AM
I know the Ushio 10w/32Deg. Halogen MR16 lamp has its issues. I have always found them to prematurely burn out. (under 1000 hours usually) And I know many others have had the same experiences.

However: Are their any tricks to getting this lamp to actually perform to spec? I have to go and change out about 6 tomorrow (again - changed this past June) and the client is not happy.

I am considering installing BABs with a piece of screen in front to cut down on the intensity. I would prefer to get the Ushio to last though.

Thanks.

Eden Lights
12-10-2008, 01:20 AM
CC Precise BAB w/screen

Pro-Scapes
12-10-2008, 10:38 AM
low low 11v. I have some out there running for over a year now. I think they are around 10.9

You deal with low ambient light like I do alot. Would color be a prob ? Sometimes a bab with dual frosted lenses works too.

INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting
12-10-2008, 11:25 AM
I don't want to undervolt them too much as they are installed in Hunza DL above a row of white framed windows onto planter boxes filled with colourful annuals in the summer. Colour is a big thing.

So I am going to put screen in front of some BABs and try that. Or, I might just install some Q20X Bi-Pin Lamps (no reflector). I have done this in other fixtures at times and it works well.

Regards.

Pro-Scapes
12-10-2008, 11:33 AM
I have installed bi pins in similar situations. 11v is not under volting in my book. Your still getting halogen cycle and I doubt your clients will notice the diff between 11.5 and 11.

Chris J
12-10-2008, 10:21 PM
Just for the record, you can always install a typical bi-bin lamp (no reflector) in an MR16 based fixture. You may have to increase the wattage, but you will get far less lumen output when the fixture produces no reflection.

INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting
12-11-2008, 03:04 PM
Yep, and I have done that on many occassions with fixtures like the NS Guardian or others that offer some depth inside. The issue with the Hunza DL is that the lens is flush to the bottom of the fixture and the interior cavity is very shallow. I would prefer not to have random hot spots appearing on the frost lens from where the Bi-Pin lamp hangs from the socket.

I ended up using 20W BABs with black aluminum screen in front to cut down the intensity.

Regards.