john deere jx75 fix

[ugadawgpen]

I started my mower today, and, as usual, the motor started on the first pull and hummed. When I went to engage the blade, however, there was a pop and a few pieces flew out of the side. I stopped the mower and took a look at the business end. As you can see from the pics, it seems that a piece on the blade brake clutch shattered. I guess it is some kind of gasket or clutch piece. While I am no pro, I believe I can fix this myself w/ the correct part. Could any of you help a lowly homeowner out? Particularly, what the part below is called and how to remove the bbc? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[topsites]

All right here is what I can tell you...
From the pictures I can't figure out if your problem is a whole lot worse than you think or if it's just
wear and tear or what's going on... To be blunt it looks like a part of the deck itself got tore up and
that the problem may not be one worth fixing, but I just can't say for sure from just that picture thou
it sure don't look good.

But anyhow...
So I got on Google, and ended up at deere.com (go figure lol) from where I went to Residential
and then some Owner's or Parts manuals section where it asked me for a model number (jx75) and
I got this pull-down list where my problem begins...

I am currently here:
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt
And I expanded the link that says 'Pictorial Index'

Which expands to '1 - JX75 and JE75 21-Inch Walk-Behind Mowers'

And that, when clicked on, gives me these choices:
20 - A01 - A15 - ENGINE (FC150V)
21 - A01 - B17 - ENGINE (FJ180V)
30 - A01 - C12 - JE75 AND JX75 WALK BEHIND MOWER (SN -X200000)
31 - A01 - D9 - JX75 WALK BEHIND MOWER (SN X200001- , E010001- )

And that's where I am stuck, because I need to know some more information about that mower of yours,
such as the engine type or model and also the serial number of your mower.

Once we have that I believe we can proceed, or perhaps someone else knows right away the answer.

Peace

[topsites]

Here's something else...
Just from looking at that picture, it appears the parts below that I outlined in red are all cracked or broken some kind of way,
some of which appears to be the deck itself but I don't know because it's such a close-up shot, so I could be wrong maybe
that's just the way it looks but am I thinking the entire spindle assembly tore itself out of the deck?
Anyhow:

[S DIAMOND]

Well dawg pen that appears to be the friction plate from the upper half of your BBC. I don’t think you will be able to replace just that part. I believe you are going to need a total replacement as Deere may have superseded its serviceable units to a complete unit replacement? But I’m not sure of this.

Depending on the age of the mower and the damage to the BBC and the deck, you may be looking at $$$. The unit is around $189.00

If it does come down to just the BBC, you will have to remove the engine to remove the complete BBC clutch.

Removing the blade and spacer will not be so bad. The clutch bolt (hex or torx in the center) will be a different story. I’ve had to heat some of these jokers up to get them off in the past. :cry: However, you may get lucky.

It’s best to drain the fuel tank, carburetor and oil so the process will be less messy for you.

Tip the mower on its side and go to town.

The process is pretty intuitive, so just follow the reverse when reinstalling.


The only real aggravation you might encounter will be the BBC spring. There’s a little trick to removing and installing, but not terrible.

Remember to use proper torque specs.

Engine bolts: 18 lbs.-ft.
Blade and BBC bolts: 55 lbs.-ft.

Keep us posted; Good luck.:)

[ugadawgpen]

Thanks Diamond. Good news is that I checked again and the torque plate is the only piece that is broken. Bad is that you say the whole BBC needs to be replaced. Bummer. I have added add'l pics to be sure.

[Jason Rose]

Yep, you need a new clutch... I just had mine off this summer to replace the belt. (I have an older SB-14). Mine had a new clutch when I bought it used about 6 or 8 years back... I'm sure it's about on it's last legs by now.

Just thinking, I say I had mine off, but I think it was only half that came off, of course the lower half. I didnt need to remove the clutch completely from the actual engine shaft to replace the belt. (you may want to replace the belt while you are there)

For the BBC spring, the large rusty looking one, you will either need a large 'channel lock' type pliers or one of the slip joint oil filter wrench pliers. When you unbolt that bracket (2 small bolts) remove the one closest to the spring first and then use the pliers to hold it between the end of the bracket and anything you can get hold of under the deck. Slowly remove the tension, loosten the rear bolt, no need to remove it totally. When replacing, just reverse the process and use the rear bolt as a "hinge" and the pliers to get the front bolt alinged with the hole.

[mwjrepair]

JD part #GY20805. This is the complete assembly. #4 below:

http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/MP34/MP34678________UN28JUL04.gif

$120 at your local JD dealer. This looks like it will work with all serial #s.

Maybe you can get by with #11, which is the lower half, JD part #GY20711, $54.60. Can't tell if this has the broken disk with it. This is only for serial #s X200001 & up, or E101001 & up.

Wayne

[S DIAMOND]

Good photos. :)

Go ahead (if you haven’t already) and remove the lower half.

Looking at the pictures again, that does appear to be part of the lower half’s friction pad, and not the upper plate. Inspect both halves for wear, damaged bearings (both sealed and ball), as well as it’s mating surfaces.

The lower half will have to be replaced for sure, but make sure the upper is ok as well.

Again, depending on its age, complete replacement may be a better solution or it may be your only solution depending on what Deere is doing now. The last BBC I replaced (approximately 45 days ago) was complete unit option only. I’d have to be at work to confirm this?

However that may not be a bad thing, so you don’t have any “surprises” in the summer time when you’re working her out. :weightlifter:

By the way, looking at Wayne’s photo, and Jason’s comment about removing the BBC spring, the only difference is I remove the rear bolt and loosen the front bolt (closer to spring) and allow that to be a pivot point. Either way will work fine.

The obvious curve or hook makes a good place to put a pry bar in to align the hole when you have spring tension. Good luck. :walking:

[Albemarle Lawn]

I have several of these mowers.

The clutch will last a long time if....

1) Do not engage in tall grass...lift deck by pushing handlebar down, engage, then set down into grass or just start blades over a sidewalk, etc.

2) PROPER ADJUSTMENT! I had a brand new week old BBC on my JX85, cable slipped, and mindless employee brought it back with the comment...."there's smoke coming out from under the deck" oh, no prob, just my money going up in smoke, but that's OK cause I make more every day, right?

[stroker51]

I know this thread is kinda old, but I came across it searching how to get the main clutch bolt out. We didn't have any way to heat it, so I called a guy here that works on a bunch of these mowers, and, per his advice, used a sharp chisel and a hammer to knock the attached washer loose, since the bolt itself wouldn't budge with an impact. Hit it 6 or 7 times and it popped right loose. Just thought I'd put that out there for anybody that might run into the same problem.

[alanemsley]

How do you remove the top half of the clutch assembly?

[cs9530]

I recently found and bought a used JX75 on craigslist. It wouldn't start (hadn't been run for 2 years) so we agreed on a fair price for me to take a chance on it. I've torn the carb apart and thoroughly cleaned it, bought a JD tune up kit w/ new plug, air filter and oil changed.

It's running now, but I have an issue that I think might be related to the BBC. When the blade is engaged and I'm cutting, it runs pretty well but when I let go and the blade disengages, it seems like the engine has a load put on it. It starts to surge (governor kicks in and out) and I hear a slight bearing whine.

I've been chasing this engine surge issue but have run out of ideas after fuel, air and electric all check out. Is anyone familiar enough with the JD BBC to know if the bearings could be causing the engine to load when the blade is disengaged?

Thanks

[Mowingman]

Your engine problem is most likely more dirt in the carb. Those Kawasaki engine are VERY tempermental when they get the least little spec of dirt in the carb. I had many of those mowers, and always installed an inline gas filter as soon as I got a new mower home.
As far as clutch problems go, the only fix is a new clutch. Parts to rebuild clutch have never been available in my long experience with these models of JD mowers.

[cs9530]

Thanks for your reply. Finally got around to looking at the mower. I pulled the BBC out - turns out that has issues too. The lower bearing was beginning to bind. I ordered a new BBC.

I tried starting the mower without the blade or BBC installed and it still ran terrible. I pulled the carb out again for the 3rd time, pulled out the main jet and it was clogged again (I had installed a filter the last time I pulled the carb so this suprised me).

As I was handling the carb and spraying with cleaner, a brass tube (a little over an inch long) fell out of where the main jet screws in. It must have been so gummed up that it was stuck in there before because it never budged...I figured it was part of the carb body. Turns out it was all gummed up and cloged. I wiped off the gum, sprayed carb cleaner through the holes (at least 5 or six on the sides) and put it all back together.

The mower runs great now. I was a few clicks away from ordering a new carb which would have been a total waste - Thanks again for your advice!