View Full Version : Prep for veneer on basement concrete wall

01-25-2009, 01:52 PM
Looking for a bit of input not sure which way to go. I am starting Veneer on a concrete wall along a staircase in the basement of a house. I have prior experience veneering walls but need some input on the prep for this. The wall has been painted so it is very smooth compared to untreated concrete. What should I do get the wall ready for a scratch coat? Acid wash of some sort? Use a paint stripper first?

01-25-2009, 02:57 PM
Locate the studs and screw in mesh. Get a few drywall anchors too........you can't over do the anchoring. Apply a scratch coat and then go to town the NEXT day.

The anchors are what are holding the stone to the wall.

01-25-2009, 03:01 PM
its not drywall it is a solid 12" thick concrete wall just want to know what I should use to get it back to raw concrete so my scratch coat will hold

01-25-2009, 05:15 PM
Gotcha.....I'd just go to a hardware store and see what paint stripper they have available.

01-25-2009, 06:30 PM
for that small area
I would install metal lath with concrete nails you can buy a magnet to make it go faster and easier.
then scratch coat and veneer

01-25-2009, 06:34 PM
Paint stripper, and then rough up the wall with an angle grinder or wire brush, in order to make sure that no paint stripper is still on the wall.
Post pictures when you're done, I'd like to see it.

01-25-2009, 11:31 PM
I have a 4 in diamond honing blade for my right angle grinder that would make short work of that paint and rough up the surface all in one step.

01-26-2009, 05:22 PM
If this were an outside project I would use a grinder but inside would make such a mess not to mention health concerns, the time you'll spend doing the prep covering steps and and or furniture and all the rest would be more than couple hours.
Using the metal lath would not only be faster but more secure.

01-26-2009, 11:11 PM
Good bookmark to check out...


Very true info offered (besides the start at the top tip). Build upward and wet each stone before buttering to impede dry stone from sucking the moisture out of your mix...

Classic Landscaping
01-26-2009, 11:54 PM
Check out this web site, "cultured stone". I think that's how it's spelled, its Owens Illinois I beleive. The site covers every aspect of the process.

You must apply wire lath and 2 skim coats, check out the site, it will answer all your questions.


denver 2
01-27-2009, 09:23 PM
You do not need to remove paint, just rough it up some way so that the mortar will be able to bind to the wall. You might want to apply a scratch coat of type S mortar first so that when you apply the stone it will bind easier. If you do not have the comb to make the scratches you can lightly scratch the wet mortar with a wire brush. Apply stone with a rich mixture of type S mortar and then grout with Type N mortar if you are not doing a drystack pattern.

01-27-2009, 10:05 PM
Check out this web site, "cultured stone". I think that's how it's spelled, its Owens Illinois I beleive. The site covers every aspect of the process.

You must apply wire lath and 2 skim coats, check out the site, it will answer all your questions.


Cultured Stone by Owens Corning is great stuff! StoneRox is made by a company up the road from my house, a little cheaper. CS has all the info you could ever want and videos too, just check the site. Throw lath with tapcon screws up, scratch coat and go to town. Like someone said, grinder + indoors will cause a dust disaster.

MC Handy Man
01-29-2009, 02:01 PM
I suggest tapping holes for 1/4 inch rivet anchors and attach mesh (lath). then scrach coat the mesh with a 1 part type M mason and 3 parts pcl sand. scrch liberally and create horizontile lines. depending on what type of style of rock you are going to apply start at the topp or the bottom. You should start from bottom and peice in the steps. You can get beutifull cut edges for the steps by using a diamond blade on an angle grinder. check out Boulder Creek manufactures stone. the give the same great look of real stone yet its lighter and much easier to install. good luck with you project, remember, Rock out with your C... out!

Classic Landscaping
01-29-2009, 03:55 PM
You should also know what type of stone you are using on this project. That will determine if you sill need to start on the top or the bottom.

02-11-2009, 11:20 PM
you wanna explain that comment. top or bottom?

Classic Landscaping
02-12-2009, 01:03 AM
If you are using a round type river stone you would start applying your stone at the top of your wall or surface so that if and when the mortar drips it will fall without falling on already applied product. Since most cultoured stones are man made they can not be cleaned with acid. You have to wait until dry and wire brush the dried mortar off. Starting at the top of your surface prevents this step. When applying a stacked type stone the opposite is true. You are applying mortar to the back of your stone and in between joints horizontally. The stone is flat so you have less chance of falling mortar. Check out the cultoured stone website by Owens, it covers everything...very good.

02-12-2009, 12:19 PM
all i use is cultured they are the only real product in my area worth using. the only time i start at the top is if we are working off a large tower on chimneys. i also go bottom up though to avoid any cuts at the bottom i prefer to make it look as real as possible. that comes from the 12 years of masonry under my belt. i do brick, block, stone, cultured stone, stucco. when i use fake stone i do a step flashing and run it up under a stepped cap to give chimneys a real look. i under stand the cleaning part but i always do my jointing atleast a day later to avoid cracks from shrinking. as long as you work cleanly your good to go. i have seen several jobs that other companies have done and look like **** all cracked and exposed edges showing the mortar base. i like to hide everything

02-12-2009, 12:24 PM
heres a picture of what i mean by hiding the edges with step flashing this was built from the bottom up.


02-12-2009, 06:14 PM
Do not use a stripper, strippers are petroleum based and will not come out of the pores of the concrete and will delaminate a scratch acoat.. You need to get a grinder and a diamond cup whell and grind the paint off. Then when you put the scratch coat on make sure the concrete is damp and brush on a bonding agent as well as adding the bonding agent to you mix

02-23-2009, 03:01 AM
What type of stone are you installing?