View Full Version : natural moss killer

02-08-2009, 09:24 PM
what do you guys use?

02-08-2009, 09:33 PM
Whats wrong with moss?

02-08-2009, 09:35 PM
light and more sun light....

02-08-2009, 09:44 PM

02-08-2009, 10:10 PM
down here the lesco high mag iron liquid kills it off pretty good......then add some N to the soil........

02-08-2009, 10:30 PM

02-09-2009, 01:20 AM
light and more sun light....

I've got to read the links posted, but my first thought to your response is that you've got to get out more. The only moss problems I deal with are on putting greens. It doesn't get anymore full sun than an open putting green in the high desert at an elevation just shy of 6000'. Most of my moss grows in hydrophobic areas that are elevated.

02-09-2009, 01:22 AM
what do you guys use?

Tell me what/where you are trying to remove moss. My moss will be dead by June 1st. The only reason it is still here is I didn't get here until July 3rd and making the kind of changes necessary to eliminate it just didn't happen in the little time I had to consider it. (read that as it didn't make the priority list)

02-09-2009, 02:16 AM
The one link is to an "organic" spray for use on hard surfaces to kill the moss. Vinegar, Lye soap, Salt, etc. all work to kill anything living on hard surfaces.

The other link is a decent article. They are pushing ferts. Vertical mow and fertilize for optimal plant growth. Sounds good, BUT what I never see any where but golf type turf is the importance of applying fertilizer and stimulating the turf BEFORE vertical mowing or aerification. Minimum of two weeks before you mechanically remove any thatch, fertilize. Give the plants a good swift kick to get them growing. On short turf, I like to vertical mow after plugging. If it is a spreading grass (even blue grass), you will get quicker fill of plug holes if you verticut after aerification. Next, top dress. Compost, sand or a mix on top of the cut crowns. The top dressing hides the moss from the sunlight it needs to grow, and it protects the plants damaged from the vertical mowing. In golf, we use a LOT of sand and I like sand. I like sand better if I can mix it with 25-40% soil, peat, humates, etc. The sand makes sure you stay open for oxygen. The "heavier" particles help retain moisture and provide some fertility.

02-09-2009, 08:55 AM
shaded areas that needs pruning, but the customer wants the moss gone too. it has soil underneath, and not a hard surface.

get rid of moss, prune trees, plant a ground cover or fine fescue mix?

02-09-2009, 09:19 AM
Look at the soil too, get rid of the turf under the tree.

02-09-2009, 02:40 PM
I REALLY hate to agree with Kiril. It just spoils the possibility of a good argument, but..............yeah, skip the turf and go with a good ground cover. Mechanically remove the moss, supplement the bed with what "good stuff" you have available and plant a decent population of a ground cover you are comfortable with in your climate, ecosystem, situation.

Skimming and removing the moss prior to bed prep is my preference, BUT cultivating SHOULD weaken the moss to an acceptable level during bed prep if the customer doesn't wish to go the extra mile necessary. Make sure THEY know your cutting a corner in not removing the moss mechanically if you go that route.

02-13-2009, 01:37 AM
Moss needs three things to thrive, poor fertility, poor drainage, and poor sunlite. Remove any two of these things and the moss will die. No chems, no tilling or ripping out turf, no iron, nothing. Just improve the conditions for the turf you wish to grow.

02-13-2009, 01:41 AM
Lime will help with moss corecting the ph so grass will grow

02-13-2009, 09:57 AM
Lime will help with moss corecting the ph so grass will grow

Maybe, as I do see a lot of moss in low pH soils, but I also see moss in areas that have acid loving trees. So while correcting the pH may help the moss, it might also be a detriment to the evergreens or your 50 year old oak that's sitting in your front yard.

Mudd was spot on with his post.

02-14-2009, 12:25 PM
Lime can be a very important part in ridding yourself of the moss, if lime is what the soil needs. In treating the area to grow better grass, lime is an important tool in building up fertility levels. The 50year oak that natty mentioned also loves calcium, a major component of lime. Another thing to consider is how long will it take that lime to get down to a level that might be detremental to the oak. Surface applied lime can take as long as 9 years to correct the ph levels in the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Fineness of grinde does come into play. During those 9 years, the calcium can become soluible and usable by the oak tree and provide a benefit instead of a detriment to the tree. Just because a tree or plant is classified as a acid loving plant, doesnt mean that it cant grow in other ph ranges. Most plants, includeing the acid loveing ones, will produce better in a ph of 6.2-6.7 than they do at higher or lower ph ranges. Being acid loving just means they will tolerate more acid conditions, it doesnt mean they wont grow or even thrive in other ph ranges.

Now you also need to know, do you need the lime?. Just because you have a low or high ph does not mean you need lime. I forget just how many carbonates that there are, but all of them will effect Ph, so Ph isnot an indicator of whether or not you need a calcitic or dolomitic lime, or even to how much might be needed. It is only one measure of Hydrogen in the soil and can be effected by all the other Anions and cations held in the soil. Only with a soil test can you determine whether you need lime or how much is needed. Yes lime will raise ph levels just like sulfur can lower them, but if you have a low ph, just which liming material do you choose. A ph meter wont/cant tell you that. If you are in a real property manageing business, you should be soil testing every property that you maintain. You dont have to test every year, or before every application, but if you dont know what you have, how on earth can you know what you need. And how do you know if your making progress with you applications and treatment. You also dont have to use lime to raise Ph levels, many organic materials can effect ph also. Poultry manure from laying hens is one excellent source. Egg producers feed tons of calcium carbonate to laying hens to strengthen the shells on the eggs, some of that carbonate passes thru and is contained in the manures. Compost that manure and use it for a topdressing. You have now raised your ph levels and provided the needed calcium, as well as other nutrients, to your plant, and you havent resorted to any chemicals. I also consider lime to be organic.

02-18-2009, 05:48 PM
Compost that manure and use it for a topdressing. You have now raised your ph levels and provided the needed calcium, as well as other nutrients, to your plant,MUDD this is a very good point

02-19-2009, 03:35 PM
I have a customer who had moss problems in his yard, Heavy shade that could not be altered (neighbors trees). He didn't irrigate and the turf was thin. I did one application of 12-0-0 6%Fe at a 6oz/1000 rate then put lime down at 7lbs/1000 two weeks later, (based on soil tests) then 6oz of the 12-0-0 6%Fe five weeks after that. Fertilized at 3 lbs for year (synthetic) this customer has zero moss in the lawn now.
Now I believe my treatment worked on two levels. 1.) Moss does not like higher Ph soils or heavy metals.
By doing this one, two punch, I believe that I weakened (Not Killed) the moss and gave the turf a competetive advantage. The turf thickened and shaded out the moss thus eliminating it all together.