View Full Version : ball field grass

02-17-2009, 08:56 AM
I own a lawncare company in mansfield ohio and have been approached by a couple of people that are installing ball fields if i would donate some time and product to help them out. they would like for me to supply the grass and fertlizer for the outfields there are to fields total. my question is where can i get the best deal on grass seed and what would be the best type to use? they were told by another compant in my area that there is a grass seed that would be growing in 5-7 days i usually would not be interested in doing something like this but the folks that are building these fields are doing it out of their own pockets to help keep the sport of softball going in the area the city has stopped spending the time and money to keep our other parks clean and kept up. any help would be greately appreciated thamk you.

Midstate Lawncare
02-17-2009, 10:11 AM
Kentucky 31 tall fescue. Mow at 2 3/4 once or twice per week. You have to do little maintenance as in fertilizing, just know it is a medium green grass... not the deep green most people think when they think ball field. I had germination in my lawn at 4 days and an established lawn in 8 weeks. 6-24-24at planting and 13-13-13 at 4 weeks. Money!

02-17-2009, 10:20 AM
how will that grass do as far as wear and tear

02-17-2009, 10:33 AM
how will that grass do as far as wear and tear

some people don't like, done right it is like green blacktop.

02-17-2009, 11:27 AM
where do you guys get your seed from i need enough seed to cover 13,000 square yards, and if i am going to supply this i would liketo find good deal on the seed and fertlizer. any ideas on getting it direct from the mfg. or some contacts for suppliers

02-17-2009, 11:51 AM
do you not have a wholesaler nearby? lesco? or otherwise? you may be able to find someone to reduce the cost even more if there is a non-profit organization behind this too.

02-17-2009, 01:41 PM
i just put in a call to my c;osest lesco dealer 65 miles away and they are going to work me up a price. is there a fast and quick way to sprread this seed beside regular push spreaders??

02-17-2009, 01:47 PM
bigger PTO driven spreader? larger tow behind unit?

IMO, If you're not properly equipped to handle this task, its going to become a chore instead.

02-17-2009, 01:53 PM
i am sure this is going to be a chore and not a fun task .but these folks only have so much money i have 3 push spreaders and a bunch of free help ,i just dont want to see this project come to a screaching halt due to them running out of money, this area needs a place like this for ball players to go and enjoy themselves with their familys,all the other ball fields around are just run down junk. like i said earlier i have other projects to do but i will make some time to help out these folks ,who knows it may come back to me later

02-17-2009, 03:50 PM
check some farm co-op;s in your area for seed, tell them what your doing, might even get a break on price.

RD 12
02-17-2009, 05:33 PM
I would check with local schools and see what type of grass they are using and you may see how it is holding up. Bermuda it what we use down here with rye grass in the winter. A good quality seed will eliminate a lot of problems down the road.

02-17-2009, 08:08 PM
Call Lesco...Now known as john deere landscapes..You want the Premium Athletic mix or the Park and athletic mix for seed..get a good starter fert. from them...Also you might want to look into a slit seeder. You can rent one for $50 or $60 bucks a day....All this might be a little more $ in the short term, But you will get way better results in the long term

02-18-2009, 03:49 PM
lesco quated me tuf turf and said that was the seed that i should use. what do you pros think on that recommendation

02-18-2009, 04:34 PM
I don't care for tall fescue for sports fields. It can get clumpy, if it gets hard wear. It does not have rhizomes--will not creep to fill in bare spots. May need annual reseed. Also germination is slow, 10 to 14 days, compared to what they had last year. Think about Lesco Athletic Blend, (perennial rye for quick germination, and bluegrass for rhizomes and better self-repair). Try to find out what other schools and sports fields in your area are using. Lesco "Premium Athletic Blend" or "Double Eagle" should be considered. Also see link: http://www.landscapemanagement.net/landscape/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=69870

Drew Gemma
02-18-2009, 06:54 PM
- tall fescue has bad color, it needs to be planted in spring, slow to fill in and it isn't what they advertise. Plus it cost more to seed it needs a higher rate and has slower germination.

You want 80% blue 20% rye or 60 blue 40 rye at the low end. lesco has good seed but not always best price. use starter fert and lots of water. also what about run off gonna straw the area or use a mulch of sorts.

also what is seed bed like it needs to be preped prior to planting.

Trust me we have put in 4 fields just grading and seed and first 2 years care. No fun, no money and lots of complainers who have no clue of what is going on. We no longer offer our help unless we have 100% control of project.

Why not renovate older filed clean it up and save a lot of money. I think you should walk away Just my opinion!

Also we are in the same zone so watch what ppl suggest as bermuda would be terrible up here!

RD 12
02-19-2009, 11:11 AM
You may also want to call pennington. You may get a cut on the prices if you are for rec purposes.

02-20-2009, 10:24 AM
Sod is best--that is what the pros use. Is the site irrigated? Are you going to kill the old grass, strip the sod and start over? Second best. Are you going to overseed? Are you going to fertilize and water the grass after you sow seed? Plenty of water and 6 ferts per year, plus twice per week mowing and top-quality seed will get what you want. If not--you may be disappointed. Look for a dark green ryegrass like "Zoom" plus a "Midnight Type" bluegrass like "Quantum Leap". And check out Seed Research's Dr. Leah Brillman's talk as a Power Point presentation at:

Top seed is not enough--you have to make sure it has conditions ideal for germination, and professional care--if you want professional results. Bluegrass is slow, germinates in 14 to 21 days. It takes 18 months to grow sod.

02-20-2009, 12:42 PM
I like your posts, Riggle, and most of the points made in the one above except that I would argue that better long term results are obtained by seeding. Granted, it takes a lot of after-care and some luck.

Although I have not seen the site to know what would be involved, I like Drew Gamma's suggestion to renovate. He is right on about having 100% control or walking.

02-21-2009, 12:10 PM
I would use either the lesco tuf turf you mentioned or they also have a seed called teamates that is good. I would listen to your lesco rep there though because what we might use in TN is different than up there where you are. I would also sew in some ryegrass this fall that will keep a good stand of turf while it is still to cold for the grass to start growing, so you are not playing on a dead field in March and early April. Just my 2 cents worth.

02-25-2009, 09:40 PM
lesco quated me tuf turf and said that was the seed that i should use. what do you pros think on that recommendation

I sell to Mansfield Schools and Mansfield Madison Schools. I have found the best seed for that area (NON-Irrigated) to be Turf Type Tall Fescue mix. I have had very good luck with Pro Athletic Blend (85% TTF / 10%Blue / 5% Rye). The Rye will germinate in 3-5 days, the Fescue in 8-12 and the Blue in 20+ days. The blend stands up very well in football and soccer situations and will do very well for softball. 50# will cover 6250ft2 @ 8#/1000. What is the softball fields use (adult, little league). Reason I ask, there is roughly a difference of .5 acres of playing surface and I will be able to help you figure total needed.

I will be in Mansfield on the 5th, and if you would like me to meet with you and help, just send me a pm..

Athletic field
03-13-2009, 09:00 PM
Use 100% P.Rye to overseed. It's cheap, very wear tolerant, and looks good. There are also new varieties that have good disease resistance. If you plant an "Athletic Field Mix" with 50/50 P. Rye/K. Blue, You'll end up with mostly P.Rye anyhow so save your money and go 100% P.Rye. There are turf type TF out there. I have never use them because I was told that they will clump when injured. For Football, Soccer, Lacose, stay away because of this. For baseball and softball maybe alright, no aggressive play on the grass in that sport. Plus TF has to mature about a year to have the same wear tolerance as PRye or K.Blue

Field General
03-14-2009, 12:32 PM
RPM1 , check your PM's

Drew Gemma
03-14-2009, 03:49 PM
okay all rye is no good either it does not repair it's self like KBG.