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Athletic field
02-26-2009, 12:18 PM
I have a potential customer who has a large yard 35K and as many mole tunnels all throughout it. How do you estimate mole control and what is the best product to use?

eruuska
02-26-2009, 12:28 PM
Product is easy. Talpirid. Try to get hold of the training DVD if you're not familiar with it.

Estimating is tough, I've always found it to be a crapshoot. It's easy when you've only got one or two easy-to-identify tunnel systems. When it's more complex I try to take my time and try to identify and separate all the different tunnel systems, and use the right number of baits per system. Don't underbid. Understand that to do it right you've got at least 3 visits to do. My minimum charge for moles last season was $100, and that's for a regular maintenance customer whose home I drive past every day. I've charged as much as $400 for a little larger property (22k).

Hope this helps.

mowerknower
08-09-2009, 12:27 PM
I have been using Talpirid for a while and have not seen results. Actually the other day I walked around the yard and all of the Talpirid was pushed up out of the ground. I normally have good luck catching the little bastards but I think I got a smart one this year. He always digs when Im gone, I have only seen it digging one time this year and it was right next to the patio so I couldnt smack it and dig it up.

Runner
08-09-2009, 12:49 PM
You can't touch it. They will reject it.

EVM
08-09-2009, 01:04 PM
You can't touch it. They will reject it.

Even with medical type gloves? If you can't touch it, what do you touch it with?

bx24
08-09-2009, 01:09 PM
I have a potential customer who has a large yard 35K and as many mole tunnels all throughout it. How do you estimate mole control and what is the best product to use?

Large yard! LOL Mine is now larger then that...Hehe

But
I have used Talpirid and the spike mole traps...both work and need to be used correctly and find the main tunnels.

Price is your call on what the area will take...

rcreech
08-09-2009, 02:07 PM
I have been using Talpirid for a while and have not seen results. Actually the other day I walked around the yard and all of the Talpirid was pushed up out of the ground. I normally have good luck catching the little bastards but I think I got a smart one this year. He always digs when Im gone, I have only seen it digging one time this year and it was right next to the patio so I couldnt smack it and dig it up.

I have had this happen before. If the weather is wierd OR you are getting a lot of rain (hence a lot of worm activity up top) they don't take the bait as well.

I have found that Talparid works best when a tick on the dry side as they don't have as much food supply and take the bait better.

Talparid is fool proof if used correctly. It has become a major player in the services we offer. Last year we did a little over 80 jobs and this year we will be close to that again.

SERIOUS $$$$$$ with very little cost involved!

rcreech
08-09-2009, 02:08 PM
Even with medical type gloves? If you can't touch it, what do you touch it with?

I always use "medical gloves" but make sure they don't have powder and they are not scented.

kirk1701
08-09-2009, 03:21 PM
I've had very much succes with the traps this year.

Have always had issues and tried everything that could be thought of then I found this:

Subjective misconceptions are also the root of such remedies as lye, Drano, pickle juice, broken glass, red pepper, razor blades, bleach, moth balls, rose branches, human hair balls, vibrators, ultrasonic contraptions, castor bean derivatives (Mole Med), gasoline and explosives. Although this fun and games approach may relieve frustrations, these and other home remedies have little if any value in controlling moles.

http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm

Found the Victor scissors Out-o-sight traps on e-bay half prices and its a one time charge for the traps, use over and over.
There are no chemical solutions to a mole problem and trapping is the most reliable method of control. Mechanical traps are environmentally friendly, target specific and they work! Some traps are good, some are not. I prefer the Victor spear type and the Victor scissors (Out-o-sight).

foreplease
08-09-2009, 10:09 PM
Traps work but they require a lot of work; many people do dont want to deal with the dead moles once caught. Also, how many does one want to buy, maintain, store, or haul from job to job if done commercially? That is unimportant-if you like them use them.

Many would argue with this guy's premise that nothing has changed in the last 100 years and that there are no chemical solutions to a mole problem. Talpirid is a very effective "chemical solution."

rcreech
08-09-2009, 10:14 PM
If the ground is TOO wet or TOO dry...traps suck!

Also...I can "over bait" and increase my chances of getting the little guys.

If I am on a larger job...I can use up to 20 worms.

I wouldn't want to set 20 traps.

Plus...I can always say "I think I got him"...but if you DON'T get him with a trap you know you didn't get him.

I guarantee my mole control 100% for up to 5 days after treatment.

Making a ton of money on it too!

amscapes03
08-09-2009, 10:50 PM
A customer of mine had great success using Ex Lax regular strength chocolate pieces. They eat it, get a major prolonged case of the runs which causes de-hydration and death. It sounds goofy, but if all else fails, give it a try.

kirk1701
08-09-2009, 10:51 PM
Traps work but they require a lot of work; many people do dont want to deal with the dead moles once caught. Also, how many does one want to buy, maintain, store, or haul from job to job if done commercially? That is unimportant-if you like them use them.

Many would argue with this guy's premise that nothing has changed in the last 100 years and that there are no chemical solutions to a mole problem. Talpirid is a very effective "chemical solution."
I can see your point on hauling from job to job foreplease, at the same time I've tried ALL the products on the market :rolleyes:

I'm bald because I needed hair to put in the runs :laugh:
I'm joking but I am going bald, LOL.

anyhow, after pulling out all the stops, trying the poision worms didn't help either and see the quote below.

If the ground is TOO wet or TOO dry...traps suck!

Also...I can "over bait" and increase my chances of getting the little guys.

If I am on a larger job...I can use up to 20 worms.

I wouldn't want to set 20 traps.

Plus...I can always say "I think I got him"...but if you DON'T get him with a trap you know you didn't get him.

I guarantee my mole control 100% for up to 5 days after treatment.

Making a ton of money on it too!

5 days is just not enough rc. One thing I have become is an expert in mole control and this year the suckers knew I was serious :drinkup:

Same link as from my last post, here's why 5 days is not enough and why I thought everything I tried worked, even put out 32-0-0 around the perimeter of the property and thought it worked, then they came back.

Moles will jump homerange and readily recolonize other existing or deserted tunnels. Moles may leave an area if disturbed but will usually return when you least expect it. Even without disturbance mole activity may last only a week or two in a particular area. This here-now gone-tomorrow behavior is probably the root of most of the subjective misconceptions that make some home remedies including moleicides appear credible. Test results using chemicals as a control can also be distorted. Two that come to mind were both done in part by the same entomologist at the University of Michigan. He considers some poison baits (chlorophacinone) and Mole-Med to be effective in controlling moles.


One more thing I should add, I think the little guys have a six sence, can sence danger much like a dog. One the traps were in the ground they knew it was there and as long as you have the trap set in an active run and set right they don't come around it. They leave and leave for good.

I've only caught one mole in the traps, the rest I put out and they stayed in the same spot for sometimes over 6 weeks before I took them up without ever having been tripped or seen any new mole activity.

Also, it was someone here who made me aware of these traps and they were right, they work.

rcreech
08-09-2009, 11:05 PM
kirk,

5 days is more then enough! It only takes 24 hours after the Talparid is injested. I actually go back 1-2 days after baiting to confirm bait was taken! WORKS AWESOME!!!!!

I use a 3 trip process which is
1) mark
2) bait
3) follow-up (to see if bait is taken)

I think this is my 4th year...and I have probably completed over 300+ mole jobs.

TRUST ME!!!!

kirk1701
08-09-2009, 11:08 PM
kirk,

5 days is more then enough! It only takes 24 hours after the Talparid is injested. I actually go back 1-2 days after baiting to confirm bait was taken! WORKS AWESOME!!!!!

I use a 3 trip process which is
1) mark
2) bait
3) follow-up (to see if bait is taken)

I think this is my 4th year...and I have probably completed over 300+ mole jobs.

TRUST ME!!!!

Thats the poison worms right?

I ask because I've tried so many things I don't remember them all.

If its what I'm thinking my moles snuffed their noses up to it and wouldn't even look at it :laugh:

Speaking of looking is it true moles can't see?

foreplease
08-09-2009, 11:23 PM
If I may ask: do you chart or somehow identify the exact spots you baited? Do you sell customers only full boxes as psrt of a minimum chagre? If so, do you turn over partial boxes to the customer for "next time" or retain them as inventory. I am interested in the mechanics of how doing this for other people could work. There are times around here when places get moles and become overrun with them.

rcreech
08-09-2009, 11:44 PM
If I may ask: do you chart or somehow identify the exact spots you baited? Do you sell customers only full boxes as psrt of a minimum chagre? If so, do you turn over partial boxes to the customer for "next time" or retain them as inventory. I am interested in the mechanics of how doing this for other people could work. There are times around here when places get moles and become overrun with them.



Visit my web under mole control

www.lawn-plus.com

I charge by the job!


On my first initial visit I use a poly rod (about 4 ft long) and poke holes in the tunnels...and as I go I have an extended paint marker and mark a line by each hole. I do this about every 5 ft.

My next visit I walk the area and see what holes have been plugged. This is where experience comes in...so you can bait as little as possible and still get him. After I see the "good areas" to bait I then install the bait and CIRCLE the holes so I know where to look on my next visit.

Final visit is to check the circles to see if it was taken. Most of the time atleast several worms are taken BUT it only takes one!!!!!

I somtimes then pull the un-eaten worms out and use them on another job!

The customer has 5 days after my last visit to call me back for the 100% (which I have a contract wrote up on). If they call me back after that...it is considered a re-infestation.

I would say my all back rate is less then 5%. Sometime I DO miss them on the first try!

If it is a simple job I may use 2 worms...and if it is a big job I may use 30 worms.

The customer doesn't know how much bait I use and I don't want them to.

I charge a flat rate of $120 on simpler jobs...and if it is a big job it can get well over $200 and on really large jobs it runs much more!

rcreech
08-09-2009, 11:49 PM
One thing I have become is an expert in mole control and this year the suckers knew I was serious :drinkup:



.

You have the confidence to say you are an "expert" in mole control...and they ASK this:

"Speaking of looking is it true moles can't see? "

No they are can't see...they are blind!

Visit my website and you will learn all you need to know about moles.

They are very easy to kill when using Talparid...you just need to know how to use it and understand the product!

foreplease
08-10-2009, 08:16 AM
Thank you, Rod, for such a thorough answer. I have become good at eliminating moles with the Talpirid but it has always been as part of a larger overall job - usually just added to my time and materials. As you can imagine, not much "time" gets added when you're already on site for 2-8 weeks - and I don't mind that, it is fair to me and them, where the goal is more than just getting rid of moles.

You answered a couple of key questions for me that will help me for those times when I may offer this as a standalone service. I appreciate your generosity.

kirk1701
08-10-2009, 09:03 AM
Thanks for the info RC
I will defiantly give Talparid another try as I do have a bit more experience now (from knowing where to put the traps) then I did last time I used Talparid worms.

Didn't mean to sound rude in the upper post, think were both thinking alike, but I'm probably put off by the use of Talparid as I was unsuccessful in the past and probably due to the lack of experience at that time.

From your site, pretty much just reworded from the site I posted and when I read this I also included Talparid as being part of the "chemicals" that are unsuccessful.
However, this is often unsuccessful because the moleís primary food source is earthworms. Mole baits, vibrators and all the other devices sold on the market have very little effect on moles, in fact, many chemicals and home remedies (including castor oil derivatives and grub controls) are not only ineffective when dealing with moles, but they allow the animals time to establish and become real problems.

and the castor oil!! My word that was the biggest joke I tried $55 just wasted.

RAlmaroad
08-10-2009, 03:33 PM
Talparid is great and works well. But never touch it...even the stick that you need to drill a small hole in the tunnel needs to be human spore free. I use a 1/4 metal rod that I wipe with rubbing alcohol and then stick down in the dirt somewhere else. Drop in the Talparid bait and slightly cover the hole with the surgical glove. Never push in the tunnel. Moles are more numerous this year because of the wet season.

tmanmi
08-11-2009, 01:37 PM
Where can Talprid be found at a good price? The $16 for 6 worms from Walmart or big box home stores is ridiculous.

PestPro
08-16-2009, 07:03 PM
kirk,

5 days is more then enough! It only takes 24 hours after the Talparid is injested. I actually go back 1-2 days after baiting to confirm bait was taken! WORKS AWESOME!!!!!

I use a 3 trip process which is
1) mark
2) bait
3) follow-up (to see if bait is taken)

I think this is my 4th year...and I have probably completed over 300+ mole jobs.

TRUST ME!!!!

i have the custome do the work for me as regards to stepping down the runs, he/she does it, I go out and bait....step them down......customer calls me if the runs come back. I charge mininum of 175.00 regardless of the size of the yard...much more for larger yards. up to 300.00.

PestPro
08-17-2009, 05:40 PM
I have used Talpirid for a while now, and get a good price for it, and most of the time only takes one visit. And I would like to add in the State of Missouri you have to have a CAT. 3 license, which is lawn care to put bait in yards. Which I have, but I think it suck, to have to have a different license to put out bait...But I guess some goverment man needed something to do or wanted to try and get a raise.

METRO FS
08-20-2009, 11:59 AM
The moles are alive and well in my area as well. I provide various field services and mole control is a big part of my business. I am a firm believer that Talprid and other poisons provide only minimal results and are not cost effective. Since moles do not have lower incisors they can't really ingest the bait as some proclaim. Likewise some poisons may become inert after a very short period of time and will have no effect in the remote instance that it is ingested. I have made my own observations in the field and have received feedback from homeowners who have tried many different "home remedies" as well as Talprid and other poisons with no results. Then they called me to take care of their mole problem. I, and many others in the this field, believe that trapping is the only effective approach to getting rid of moles. Skill, time and patience is required to trap moles and they don't disappear overnight. But with proper technique and diligence trapping ensures that the mole is physically removed from the lawn without the risk of secondary poisoning to pets or other wildlife. Then I refer the customer to a lawn expert to help restore the lawn to a healthy condition.

kirk1701
08-20-2009, 01:03 PM
Skill, time and patience is required to trap moles and they don't disappear overnight. But with proper technique and diligence trapping ensures that the mole is physically removed from the lawn without the risk of secondary poisoning to pets or other wildlife. Then I refer the customer to a lawn expert to help restore the lawn to a healthy condition.

That one word says it all; patience.

Plus like you said, this problem does not disappear with a broadcast application and be done, takes time and diligence.

For the first time in 10 years; I have my moles under control and have an arsonal of traps at my disposal ready to do battle shall the little comrades show their heads again :walking:

However, I will keep what I read here in mind, next time I set a trap will take further steps to hide the human scent and if the traps fail me I will give Talpirid a try, same way with gloves, hide the scent.

Might even go the extra mile to boil some water and pore over the traps to get any scent off them before I use them again.

rcreech
08-20-2009, 10:29 PM
The moles are alive and well in my area as well. I provide various field services and mole control is a big part of my business. I am a firm believer that Talprid and other poisons provide only minimal results and are not cost effective. Since moles do not have lower incisors they can't really ingest the bait as some proclaim. Likewise some poisons may become inert after a very short period of time and will have no effect in the remote instance that it is ingested. I have made my own observations in the field and have received feedback from homeowners who have tried many different "home remedies" as well as Talprid and other poisons with no results. Then they called me to take care of their mole problem. I, and many others in the this field, believe that trapping is the only effective approach to getting rid of moles. Skill, time and patience is required to trap moles and they don't disappear overnight. But with proper technique and diligence trapping ensures that the mole is physically removed from the lawn without the risk of secondary poisoning to pets or other wildlife. Then I refer the customer to a lawn expert to help restore the lawn to a healthy condition.

You state...."I have made my own observations in the field and have received feedback from homeowners who have tried many different "home remedies" as well as Talprid and other poisons with no results."

If the homeowner (or person applying) the bait doesn't know what they are doing or know how to use the product IT WON'T WORK!

If you didn't do the application then how are you do judge if it worked correctly? Maybe they put it in runs that were not being used? Maybe they were old tunnels?

Do you think I would have a 100% GUARANTEE on my service if it didn't work? :dizzy: Talparid has made me a lot of money and a lot of happy customers!

Visit my site and look under mole control.

www.lawn-plus.com

Your post is funny! :laugh:

METRO FS
08-22-2009, 11:52 AM
I'm glad you find humor in my post but I am still firm in my opinion as you are in yours. My observations are just that...my observations. I have used various products including sonic repellers, Talprid and other products typically available to the homeowner in my own yard to test them as well as family member's yards and the mole problems continued for over 2 months until I trapped them. The homeowners that used it followed the instructions as labeled. These homeowners were intelligent people and one is a master gardener who is very familiar with pest control and used various products, including Talprid, over several months with very poor results. After I began trapping them his lawn was mole free in 3 weeks and has remained mole free since. Likewise I have spoken with other mole control specialists in person and in other forums who have had poor results with any type of mole poisoning or repellent. I realize that results on any type of test may vary so if it's working for you then continue to use this method. Some of my customers actually want to see dead moles on occasion just to see that they are getting what they paid for but after seeing and smelling a few of them they trust my skills and never question my billing. Anyways...happy mole hunting!

rcreech
08-22-2009, 03:48 PM
I wished I lived closer and I would show you how to do it!

My customers don't have to wait 2 months for mole control...as I can have them gone in less then 2-3 days.

If Talparid doesn't work for you...then you are not using it right! :)

EVM
08-23-2009, 12:01 PM
I was in a class and the instructor said moles are territorial. Instructor said that moles will fight each other to the death. Is this true? Does that mean that all the runs on one property are from one mole?

Is there anyway we can trap the moles and have a mole fighting/gambling ring happen. That would be cool! I could name my mole something like "Six Feet Deep" and maybe he could go undefeated in the ring against other moles and win me a bunch of money!

rcreech
08-23-2009, 04:17 PM
I was in a class and the instructor said moles are territorial. Instructor said that moles will fight each other to the death. Is this true? Does that mean that all the runs on one property are from one mole?

Moles are very territorial.

You can definitly have more then 1 network/1 mole in a lawn.

It is hard to say...but you can usually tell how the networks lay out and if they connect.

phasthound
08-23-2009, 05:19 PM
Is there anyway we can trap the moles and have a mole fighting/gambling ring happen. That would be cool! I could name my mole something like "Six Feet Deep" and maybe he could go undefeated in the ring against other moles and win me a bunch of money!

Now that Michael Vick is here, maybe he'd be interested in your idea. :)

kirk1701
11-20-2009, 11:14 AM
OK guys I knew I would eat my words sooner or later so laugh if you like.

I have a Mole Issue
:cry:

rcreech you seem to be the expert now so what am I doing wrong? First question is Tomcat Mole worm bait the same as Talprid?

About a month ago we had some good rains here, 2" over a short period 36 to 48 hours which run the little guys out of the bottoms. My yard is in a higher elevation so that's where they colonized.

I first resorted to my traps, I must have some smart ones they detoured around the dam traps every time (Yes I used gloves when setting them and poured boiling water on the trap itself to remove scent). I set more traps, same way and some got tripped but never caught a single mole so I went to Lowes and got some Tomcat and that was two weeks ago. I set the worm bait the same way, in an active run with gloves and still the little suckers won't take the bait so WTF :confused:

The corner of my lawn looks like I took a tiller through it :cry:

naughty62
11-20-2009, 11:45 AM
M:laugh:oles can be a pain . I have used talprid with mixed luck . Last time Iwent to checked out a problem yard, I drove a tractor and rolled out the tunnels with a brillion seeder , Atleast the can mow it now .

Runner
11-20-2009, 02:02 PM
Yes, Tomcat is the same as talpirid. It is the same active ingredient (bromethylin), and the same percentage. Now, whether the same exact inert ingredients are the same (scent and smell), I cannot say.
When you baited these runs, did you check and are you sure these are actually active runs? There are 3 stages of runs - not including their den level. These runs should be checked first, by poking the holes in them, then checking them a day or two later to see if the hole is patched up. Do NOT smash the runs down, and do NOT do this with bare hands or anything with your scent on it. They will avoid this area like the plague. This is a common mistake that many homeowners do with this stuff. They just take it out into their yard, and arbitrarily start depositing worms anywhere....unfortunately, to the homeowner, the worse areas are the feeding runs where the lawn is the worse. This is where the moles find a few things, and do an "S" pattern, and we see it as a big area all tore up. Well,...ironically, these are seldomly often used runs - many times never being run through again. You have to find the longer straighter runs that seem to go from point A to point B. These are the ones to test. A helpful hint? Always include the runs down sidewalks, driveway, foundations, curbs, or any other area that has concrete sides. These are often used, because they are easy for the mole to keep open. They have one whole sidewall that stays reinforced. These areas are sort of a "gimme". Another thing...make sure you are handling your gloves properly. Grab by the wrist area when taking them out of the box and NOT the glove area. I hope this info helps.

rcreech
11-20-2009, 04:39 PM
Yes, Tomcat is the same as talpirid. It is the same active ingredient (bromethylin), and the same percentage. Now, whether the same exact inert ingredients are the same (scent and smell), I cannot say.
When you baited these runs, did you check and are you sure these are actually active runs? There are 3 stages of runs - not including their den level. These runs should be checked first, by poking the holes in them, then checking them a day or two later to see if the hole is patched up. Do NOT smash the runs down, and do NOT do this with bare hands or anything with your scent on it. They will avoid this area like the plague. This is a common mistake that many homeowners do with this stuff. They just take it out into their yard, and arbitrarily start depositing worms anywhere....unfortunately, to the homeowner, the worse areas are the feeding runs where the lawn is the worse. This is where the moles find a few things, and do an "S" pattern, and we see it as a big area all tore up. Well,...ironically, these are seldomly often used runs - many times never being run through again. You have to find the longer straighter runs that seem to go from point A to point B. These are the ones to test. A helpful hint? Always include the runs down sidewalks, driveway, foundations, curbs, or any other area that has concrete sides. These are often used, because they are easy for the mole to keep open. They have one whole sidewall that stays reinforced. These areas are sort of a "gimme". Another thing...make sure you are handling your gloves properly. Grab by the wrist area when taking them out of the box and NOT the glove area. I hope this info helps.

Exactly what he said! :clapping:

Talparid (or Tomcat) works awesome! I have never had mixed results by any means but it does take some time to get it down.

I offer a 100% guarantee and sure wouldn't if it didn't work so well. Out of 80-90 mole jobs, I have probably had to go back on 5 or 6 this year. That is very normal results!

PM me if you need any details! They are easy to kill!

RC

a plus bob
11-20-2009, 05:09 PM
I tried Talprid 1 time they melted into a sticky mess had to throw out the whole pack!My rep said oh yeah you need to carry them in a cooler.I will stick to Rozol !!

Runner
11-20-2009, 05:43 PM
No, they don't need to be carried in a cooler. However, they can't stay up on end in 96 degree heat, either. the box needs to be stored flat, so it stays in the trays.

kirk1701
11-20-2009, 06:38 PM
Thanks all...

Sounds like I'm doing exactly what Runner has described. Problem is there don't seem to be any main runs :confused: though I do know what your refering to they are just not there. The mole popped up in one area and makes about a 15' run and disapears? I put out the trap, it avoids and goes around, same with Tomcat which has been out for about a week and it's still there.

I am seeing the something like the S pattern thought you refered to but the longer straighter runs that seem to go from point A to point B; NOPE not on my property at least and this area where the moles are at is right on the property line but no run's are going directly to the property line the S shape patterns are starting about 8 feet into my property.

However, I have been using the same pair of gloves doing like you say taking them off by the sleeves and handling them only by the sleeves but who knows; might be worth changing gloves before I bait again.

PestPro
11-20-2009, 07:30 PM
Rozol.......are moles on the label

rcreech
11-20-2009, 09:59 PM
Talparid will melt if in a hot cab...but it is still the most effective product on the market.

You just have to think ahead once it gets hot out. You sure don't want to leave it sitting in the sun!

Runner
11-21-2009, 08:38 PM
Thanks all...

However, I have been using the same pair of gloves doing like you say taking them off by the sleeves and handling them only by the sleeves but who knows; might be worth changing gloves before I bait again.

There in lies the problem. Rubber examination gloves. One time use. there is no way of using them twice without contamination.

gunsnroses
11-21-2009, 09:44 PM
I would like to introduce this fine product. baiting worms is like fishing. The gas is like is like tossing out a huge net.

rcreech
11-21-2009, 10:06 PM
I would like to introduce this fine product. baiting worms is like fishing. The gas is like is like tossing out a huge net.

:laugh:

seriously?

gunsnroses
11-21-2009, 10:18 PM
Hell, I cant give #s on the dead but it seemed to have worked for me. You can pick up a pack for $5.... cant beat the price. again placement is key, be careful while digging the hole and bail on the attempt if tunnel structure is messed up. The fuse is short so you only have bout 5 seconds from lit to smoke....so be ready.

rcreech
11-21-2009, 10:24 PM
Hell, I cant give #s on the dead but it seemed to have worked for me. You can pick up a pack for $5.... cant beat the price. again placement is key, be careful while digging the hole and bail on the attempt if tunnel structure is messed up. The fuse is short so you only have bout 5 seconds from lit to smoke....so be ready.

"it seemed to have worked for me" isn't good enough!

Castor oil, juicy fruit gum and many other things "seemed to work" for other people too...and they DIDN'T!

We are talking about products THAT WORK here not...seemed to work!

There are many products on the market that are supposed to work, but Talparid is one of the only products on the market right now for mole control!

gunsnroses
11-21-2009, 10:50 PM
I should have worded it differnt. I used it this year after tomcat, talprin, the syringe stuff that romove the contamination factor. I still had some action so I carpeted about 1 acre. It is a odd area with rock walkways, pool, formal gardens, stairs....not just grass. So not typical situation for most. How could it not work?if you place them correctly. you see smoke rise through cracks all around. I used about 15 bombs 6 months ago and I have not had to re treat anything. I have only used them once........damn sure I'll buy again.

foreplease
11-21-2009, 11:08 PM
Talpirid works most of the time for me. It is always my first choice. However, when nothing is working, you reach a point where you will try anything. I am proud to say I finally prevailed in a recent tough battle with Talpirid, followed by "Giant Destroyer" (which I have used one other time).

Pictures, you say?

168509

168510

rcreech
11-22-2009, 07:45 AM
I am so glad that Talparid works for me so well...because the last thing I would want my customer to see is a smoke stack in their front lawn! :dizzy:

I just don't understand WHY people can't get Talparid to work!

Just a question....why wouldn't you cover the hole so the "smoke" stays in the system? Just asking as I know nothing about how this product works!

foreplease
11-22-2009, 09:05 AM
Just a question....why wouldn't you cover the hole so the "smoke" stays in the system? Just asking as I know nothing about how this product works!

That is what happened between pictures 1 and 2 above.

The last thing I would want a customer to see is a mole run in their front lawn.

You do a lot of volume. I don't. The photos above happen to be my own yard a few weeks ago. I live on the edge of a woods and while I would like to have a zero-tolerance policy, the pressure is relentless. One of my IPM practices is roto-tilling along the back.

From your other posts I am convinced you get the moles a very high percentage of the time, as I do. I think our follow-up methods differ and that may cause us to view our respective success rates differently. When I use Talpirid, I return many many times until I myself am convinced the problem is gone. Typically, this is on athletic fields. I do not have many mole problems but when I do they are my problem completely as I am the one repairing the damage and trying to prevent player injuries as well as scalping by mowers.

Your system, from what I have read, is that after your second trip, when you place the bait, the homeowner is free to call you for free follow-up if necessary. There are reasons other than 100% control that could explain you not hearing from more of them after placing the bait IMO.

kirk1701
11-22-2009, 12:38 PM
OK I packed down the runs yesterday and checked this morning and they are back up + the run is further down to the street like the little bastards laughing at me :confused:

Fixing to put out a fresh worm in the new run, new gloves and don't pack the run back down right?

I'll let you know if the bait gets takes in a couple a days.

rcreech
11-22-2009, 12:40 PM
Your system, from what I have read, is that after your second trip, when you place the bait, the homeowner is free to call you for free follow-up if necessary. There are reasons other than 100% control that could explain you not hearing from more of them after placing the bait IMO.


My "system" consists of:

1) Assess and mark tunnels
2) Check and bait tunnels
3) Follow up to make sure the bait was taken.

These 3 trips take a total of 3-5 working days.

If the bait was taken the guarantee they are gone...if the bait is still there then I placed it wrong or they changed their moving pattern.

My 100% guarantee is only for 7 days after baiting.

If they call back after that there is an additional charge becasue A) they waited too long to call or B) they got re-infested by another mole.

I RARELY have call backs, but if they call within the 7 days I will retreat at no cost to them.

On 95% of the mole jobs I do...they are very simple and I know I am going to get them. There are always those more challenging jobs...but you just have to bait them a little heavier to make sure you get them so there is NO call back.

rcreech
11-22-2009, 12:45 PM
OK I packed down the runs yesterday and checked this morning and they are back up + the run is further down to the street like the little bastards laughing at me :confused:

Fixing to put out a fresh worm in the new run, new gloves and don't pack the run back down right?

I'll let you know if the bait gets takes in a couple a days.

Before you bait...poke a hole in the run and see if he patches it!

Then if he patches it...re-open the hole and bait it, and it wouldn't hurt to bait the tunnel a couple of places.


I think the reason why the bait "don't work" is people just bait tunnels, but if it isn't an active tunnel...then how can the mole take the bait?

So you must make sure and see what tunnels are being used. Say I mark 30 tunnels in a lawn with holes, but when I go back the next day maybe only 4 or 5 are being used. So if you bait those 4 you will get him. If you bait the other 26 you won't.

Make sense?

kirk1701
11-22-2009, 12:56 PM
Before you bait...poke a hole in the run and see if he patches it!

Then if he patches it...re-open the hole and bait it, and it wouldn't hurt to bait the tunnel a couple of places.


I think the reason why the bait "don't work" is people just bait tunnels, but if it isn't an active tunnel...then how can the mole take the bait?

So you must make sure and see what tunnels are being used. Say I mark 30 tunnels in a lawn with holes, but when I go back the next day maybe only 4 or 5 are being used. So if you bait those 4 you will get him. If you bait the other 26 you won't.

Make sense?

We'll it must be active, I've packed it down yesterday and its back up today right?

And I know over the last month I've left it alone and packed it down and it turned back up plus the run keeps getting further toward the street.

I forgot about trying the poke a hole and seeing if it patches it first though.

rcreech
11-22-2009, 01:01 PM
We'll it must be active, I've packed it down yesterday and its back up today right?

And I know over the last month I've left it alone and packed it down and it turned back up plus the run keeps getting further toward the street.

I forgot about trying the poke a hole and seeing if it patches it first though.

Maybe...but ya just don't know. I would think so...but there is only one way to tell and that is by poking a hole and checking!

A mole can go through or make a tunnel and never go back down through it. They are called "exploratory runs".

You can bait it and see...but I would recommend poking the hole first and if it patches it you should be good to go.

Re-open the hole and bait several times in that run.

Then come back in 24 hours and see if the bait is taken. If so...then :clapping: :cool2: :drinkup: and....:waving: see ya sucker! :)

foreplease
11-22-2009, 01:06 PM
I forgot about your step 3 rcreech. Found it after my post. I agree: there is no doubt if the bait is taken that one is history. When this thing at home started dragging into the third week, well...enough of that.

rcreech
11-22-2009, 01:11 PM
I forgot about your step 3 rcreech. Found it after my post. I agree: there is no doubt if the bait is taken that one is history. When this thing at home started dragging into the third week, well...enough of that.

I am far from perfect at this applciation...but I will tell you that after I did my first 10 or so (3 or 4 years ago), you can really figure them out pretty quick. You just get better after time and as you get experience.

After I did this for a while I got good enough at it, and that is when I implemented my 100% Guarantee.

It worked so well, that I said why not and use it as a "selling point" so the home owner knew I was standing behind my product and service.

You really do get pretty good at it after a while...but there are still those very challenging properties and I always tell the homeowner up front and I charge them accordingly!

CMU07
11-23-2009, 11:26 PM
I agree with rcreech, Taliprid is awesome. However, after reading this post front to back, they need to put you in PCM with all this PR your shoving!

PestPro
11-24-2009, 07:02 AM
I guess those that are having problems with Talarid, you are not reading the Label to close, cause it tells you what to do...Like all Labels :)

kirk1701
11-24-2009, 04:41 PM
I am far from perfect at this applciation...but I will tell you that after I did my first 10 or so (3 or 4 years ago), you can really figure them out pretty quick. You just get better after time and as you get experience.

After I did this for a while I got good enough at it, and that is when I implemented my 100% Guarantee.

It worked so well, that I said why not and use it as a "selling point" so the home owner knew I was standing behind my product and service.

You really do get pretty good at it after a while...but there are still those very challenging properties and I always tell the homeowner up front and I charge them accordingly!

We'll RC looks like you were right (Glad you were) :laugh:

After the first worm laided out there for two weeks and not even getting looked at it was a bit hard for me to grasp the second one was gone after merely doing nothing different then changing the gloves :drinkup:

Actually I was so in disbelief I dug out the whole spot to be sure the worm wasn't there :)

Question:
I went ahead and mashed down the runs as we got rain in the forecast I'm hoping for enough to flatten out the area and with some hope a bit less damage if the roots can still survive; was this OK? Plus the fact I want to see if anymore come through so I know if I have more then 1?

But 1 is gone :clapping:
One is such a lonely number......:drinkup:

Can you tell I'm just jumping with joy?

rcreech
11-24-2009, 07:14 PM
I agree with rcreech, Taliprid is awesome. However, after reading this post front to back, they need to put you in PCM with all this PR your shoving!

What is PCM and PR?

foreplease
11-24-2009, 11:20 PM
I guess those that are having problems with Talarid, you are not reading the Label to close, cause it tells you what to do...Like all Labels :)

T-a-l-p-i-r-id. The label says Talpirid. I got that far.

All we've really established is if a mole eats it, the mole dies and if you do not place the bait where the mole is, the mole will not eat it. What we can't prove, decide, or agree entirely on is whether or not a mole will feel compelled to eat the bait, if it finds it, 100% of the time.

It is the easiest to use mole control available and the first product or method I reach for.

Anybody ever followed the directions completely on a product and had it not perform as expected? We don't automatically say "well, the directions were written wrong," do we?

rcreech
11-25-2009, 06:32 AM
T-a-l-p-i-r-id. The label says Talpirid. I got that far.

All we've really established is if a mole eats it, the mole dies and if you do not place the bait where the mole is, the mole will not eat it. What we can't prove, decide, or agree entirely on is whether or not a mole will feel compelled to eat the bait, if it finds it, 100% of the time.

It is the easiest to use mole control available and the first product or method I reach for.

Anybody ever followed the directions completely on a product and had it not perform as expected? We don't automatically say "well, the directions were written wrong," do we?



Will they take all the bait everytime????

NO.

If there are several networks I may bait EACH of them 2-3 times or more.

If I see a MAIN RUN I may bait it 2-3 times and not even bait any other runs. I may use 2-3 worms on a job or I may use 20 if needed. It's just a numbers game. I try to use as little as possible to get the job done but also understand if I don't bait enough I may not get him. I always try and error on baiting enough to get him the first time...so I don't have to go back!

He may not take them all...but he only has to take one!

Moles eat their body weight every day and they rarely pass up on a meal!

It seems like the drier the soil the better they eat (less real worms, so they take our bait "better").

Gatewayuser
11-25-2009, 09:07 AM
Will they take all the bait everytime????

NO.

If there are several networks I may bait EACH of them 2-3 times or more.

If I see a MAIN RUN I may bait it 2-3 times and not even bait any other runs. I may use 2-3 worms on a job or I may use 20 if needed. It's just a numbers game. I try to use as little as possible to get the job done but also understand if I don't bait enough I may not get him. I always try and error on baiting enough to get him the first time...so I don't have to go back!

He may not take them all...but he only has to take one!

Moles eat their body weight every day and they rarely pass up on a meal!

It seems like the drier the soil the better they eat (less real worms, so they take our bait "better").

True true! Thats what we use too.

tmanmi
11-25-2009, 04:13 PM
I tried unsuccessfully all summer and into the fall to get rid of my moles. I tried the spike traps, easy set and the gummy worms with no avail. Called in a professional about a month ago who only traps and uses what looks like Victor Out O Sight's and some other types in the tunnels. After a month he has gotten a whopping 1 mole of my property. I own rental property that is basically next door separated by a field and since he wasn't having much luck at my house I asked if he would trap there for the same setup fee. He said sure and has gotten 6 in the last 2 weeks. I don't feel so bad for not being able to get the little buggers on my property. The one's he has been getting are big, the size of a small guinea pig.

CHARLES CUE
11-25-2009, 08:15 PM
So do you guys bait only the surface tunels the label says to find the deep tunnels to push a broom handle down in the ground that sounds tough
just wandered
Charles Cue

rcreech
11-25-2009, 10:39 PM
So do you guys bait only the surface tunels the label says to find the deep tunnels to push a broom handle down in the ground that sounds tough
just wandered
Charles Cue

You can bait the conical mounds...but I try and find the main runs.

I have been in lawns where all there is in conical mounds...so then you have no choice.

You can get them both ways!

kirk1701
11-25-2009, 11:32 PM
You can bait the conical mounds...but I try and find the main runs.

I have been in lawns where all there is in conical mounds...so then you have no choice.

You can get them both ways!

YEP
Now that I think about it RC thats what I had was a few mounds.

Could that be the reason I didn't have any main runs?

rcreech
11-26-2009, 07:36 AM
YEP
Now that I think about it RC thats what I had was a few mounds.

Could that be the reason I didn't have any main runs?


Every job is different!

I have only had a few where ONLY conical mounds were present.

The main runs are those that they use daily and usually connnect the connical mounds.

I use a 4 ft poly rod and if you "poke around" enough you can typically find some runs but it just depends on how deep the mole is.

When I can bait a run I feel much better myself...but as stated I am not afraid to bait a conical mound by any means.

If you don't have a long rod of some kind it is hard.

Tunnels are not always lifted either. You can look for discolored grass or sometimes you just have to poke around and feel for the ground to "give away". Once you have all the tunnes marked and then you can step back and look at it and see what he is doing. I love it because it is about as close as I can get to my own personal CSI.

You can actually figure them out once you see all the tunnels marked!

kirk1701
11-28-2009, 01:24 PM
We'll, think I found out what was going on but you tell me if I'm right or if you have another theory?

Keep in mind I told you we had a storm about a month back (right before this mole problem started) which like I said ran them out of the bottom lands.

OK the run I put the worm in that got took seemed to do the trick, still have a little activity but not as much and here's why. That run was slowly becoming the main run.

The little activity I now am referring to was a run about 2 feet long if that, I packed it down the other day thinking OK, I missed this one the other day when I packed the whole area down. Checked this morning and that 2 foot run was back up so on went the gloves and I pulled back an area to bait it and guess what I run up against?

A run that not only went perpendicular for 2 feet but one that went straight down????? So question is could this be the den?

I'm thinking I got the mother with the first worm that was starting the main run down toward the street, now I got a baby that probably got hungry and went digging two feet ontop of the den looking for food?

Its baited now and marked, will check in a couple a days.

rcreech
11-28-2009, 08:45 PM
kirk,

Moles are very territorial...and don't share tunnels so not sure.

If you still see activity...chances are you have another mole if the original bait was taken.

Bait again if the new hole is plugged.

Keep us updated as I am not sure about it!

kirk1701
11-28-2009, 10:59 PM
kirk,

Moles are very territorial...and don't share tunnels so not sure.

If you still see activity...chances are you have another mole if the original bait was taken.

Bait again if the new hole is plugged.

Keep us updated as I am not sure about it!

Will do, like I said it's baited and I'll check it Monday to see if its took.

I'll also get a pic and post of this hole, straight down I tell you straight down like a snake hole. Unbelievable! :laugh:

kirk1701
11-30-2009, 05:13 PM
We'll, just checked where I baited last and the worm was gone but also had a bit more activity then I did Saturday when I baited the last time. The "what looked to be" main run where I baited last week was back up so thinking it might be the same one that got this worm I mashed it back down. Going to give it a day or two before I rebait or see if this last worm did the trick.

Also, told you all about the run that went straight down; this is where I baited last which was where the 2 foot run was. As promised I got some pics.

nik
12-03-2009, 02:58 PM
Be careful about how close to structures you are when using fumigants like Giant Destroyer. Rodents have a tendency to tunnel under houses, or under cement pads and then houses. Your smoke may look like it's staying in the tunnel. At least until it starts coming up through the foundation inside.

Aluminum phosphide is a very effective tool for just about any burrowing rodent, even though it is restricted and dangerous to , well use and store.

I've seen bait refusal by moles when applicators try and cut the worms in half.

kirk1701
12-23-2009, 01:15 PM
We'll, you guys won me over, I just bought a box of 20 online for $40 :)

Hell, beats the $20 price tag for a measly box of 6 at Lowes :usflag:

And, looks like I got one more baby mole just getting old enough to start crawling out of that Den, I've been checking the area pretty regularly since I got rid of the two or three I had last month and just seen some activity so I baited the area this morning with what I have left from the box from Lowes.

Rayholio
12-27-2009, 11:38 PM
I have found that the 'secret' to talprid is to not touch the worm.. use a pocket knife.. don't get your scent on the bait.. I've NEVER used talprid and had a call back. So, it works..

I would rather trap.. you can also charge more for trapping, because you can charge per confirmed kill.. and it's safer for lawns with digging pets, which might get cross poisoned. I'm not so good at trapping yet..

rcreech
12-28-2009, 10:30 AM
I would rather trap.. you can also charge more for trapping, because you can charge per confirmed kill.. and it's safer for lawns with digging pets, which might get cross poisoned. I'm not so good at trapping yet..

Please explain "cross poisioned"?

How can you charge more for a "confirmed kill"?

I am charging them for a confirmed kill also...I just don't have it in my hand! :)

grassman177
12-28-2009, 10:48 AM
i think he means accidental poisoning

Rayholio
12-28-2009, 10:59 AM
I don't know that the term is cross poisoning.. but When a poisoned mole gets eaten, it can poison the eater :)

And trappers in my neck of the woods charge $150 per 6 month contract + $50.00 per mole caught.. dead moles can be tagged, and bagged, and left on your doorstep if you would like..

The difference is perception.. We are applying a treatment, and hoping that it works.. They are setting a trap, and KNOW when it works..

The reason caster oil, bubble gum, and everything else is believed to be effective is that moles move around a lot, and they're likely to abandon a set of feeding tubes for no reason.. giving the impression that he has been killied.. poison falls in the same catagory, because there is no body.

kirk1701
12-28-2009, 11:36 AM
I don't know that the term is cross poisoning.. but When a poisoned mole gets eaten, it can poison the eater :)

The reason caster oil, bubble gum, and everything else is believed to be effective is that moles move around a lot, and they're likely to abandon a set of feeding tubes for no reason.. giving the impression that he has been killied.. poison falls in the same catagory, because there is no body.

Oh yippie me!! I'm so lucky to have them stay for months on end in the same den :clapping:
Gave me a longer change to kill the little brats though, I've had 4 confirmed kills (poison worms) taken over the last month and slowly seeing a reduction in the mounds being created.

As for them moving around, I'm joking I read that also.:drinkup:
But I do feel honered to have them visit my yard for this length of time :laugh:

kirk1701
12-28-2009, 12:57 PM
I checked yesterday and my worm was took so I packed all the runs down and waited.

Just checked today, seen some new runs so I just put out two more worms.

Little by little I'm having less and less runs but as for the pic above, I know now I've killed at least four so I had a den maybe with babies

kirk1701
01-27-2010, 05:50 PM
Hey guys,

Wondering if you can tell me what I might be doing wrong? I'm following all the advice, using talprid, not touching the bait, using medical gloves so not to leave any scent and I still got runs popping up?

I bait, leave the run untouched and don't pack it down and come back in two days and unlike back in December when the bait was being took, now it is not? :confused:

This has happened about four times now.

So last week I left the bait, packed the runs down ahead of that last storm (and threw some grass seed out) so I could see if there was any new activity and I just now checked, YEP had more runs so I baited and marked.

I'm expecting the same as before; bait will not be taken?

Any advice as to what I might be doing wrong?

rcreech
01-27-2010, 06:34 PM
Hey guys,

Wondering if you can tell me what I might be doing wrong? I'm following all the advice, using talprid, not touching the bait, using medical gloves so not to leave any scent and I still got runs popping up?

I bait, leave the run untouched and don't pack it down and come back in two days and unlike back in December when the bait was being took, now it is not? :confused:

This has happened about four times now.

So last week I left the bait, packed the runs down ahead of that last storm (and threw some grass seed out) so I could see if there was any new activity and I just now checked, YEP had more runs so I baited and marked.

I'm expecting the same as before; bait will not be taken?

Any advice as to what I might be doing wrong?


Are you baiting right now?

If so...I may know why it isn't working for you!

Product doesn't work when the ground temp is under 50-55 degrees.

When the ground thawed out a week ago....I got 4 calls in two days for mole control. Told them nothing we can do and would have to wait until April or May.

Barefoot James
01-27-2010, 07:43 PM
Try this -

http://www.rodenator.com/

Right up your ally creech

After you blow up their yard then you can sell them on a lawn restoration.:laugh:

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-27-2010, 09:05 PM
If the ground isn't frozen, trapping would be your best option....

rcreech
01-27-2010, 09:08 PM
Try this -

http://www.rodenator.com/

Right up your ally creech

After you blow up their yard then you can sell them on a lawn restoration.:laugh:

If it will get me a seeding job or two...I would use it! :laugh:

kirk1701
01-27-2010, 10:56 PM
Are you baiting right now?

If so...I may know why it isn't working for you!

Product doesn't work when the ground temp is under 50-55 degrees.

When the ground thawed out a week ago....I got 4 calls in two days for mole control. Told them nothing we can do and would have to wait until April or May.

Sounds plausible rcreech, because it was working fine back in early Dec. I'd check the baited area a couple days later and POOF "gone". Then all the sudden the bait wasn't being took anymore, just so happen yes it did seem to co-inside with colder weather.

Which leads me to the next question, will all this bait I have in the runs (at least a half a box of talprid) still be good and just as potent when the weather breaks? If a mole runs up on it and takes it months down the road will it still work?

rcreech
01-28-2010, 01:11 PM
Sounds plausible rcreech, because it was working fine back in early Dec. I'd check the baited area a couple days later and POOF "gone". Then all the sudden the bait wasn't being took anymore, just so happen yes it did seem to co-inside with colder weather.

Which leads me to the next question, will all this bait I have in the runs (at least a half a box of talprid) still be good and just as potent when the weather breaks? If a mole runs up on it and takes it months down the road will it still work?

I am very certain it will be desolved or will not work!

Remember that Talparid is a product that is to mimick a worms true food source.

Even if the ambient temp is warm the ground temp will change the worms "feel" as when the ground is cold the worms freeze and become hard and the mole will just push the worm out of the ground because they will know the worm isn't real.

When the ground is above 55 degrees then the worms feel "real" to the mole and they think they are really getting a good meal.

Hope this is understandable and helps!

kirk1701
01-28-2010, 03:07 PM
I am very certain it will be desolved or will not work!

Remember that Talparid is a product that is to mimick a worms true food source.

Even if the ambient temp is warm the ground temp will change the worms "feel" as when the ground is cold the worms freeze and become hard and the mole will just push the worm out of the ground because they will know the worm isn't real.

When the ground is above 55 degrees then the worms feel "real" to the mole and they think they are really getting a good meal.

Hope this is understandable and helps!

Makes sense.

I ran across these today purely accidental. No digging, no accidental scent transfer to worry about and the thing is HUGE!!! :laugh:

Just stick the prongs in the ground and set with the heel of your foot.

I'll let you know how they work

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-28-2010, 03:13 PM
Those traps work great, as long as the ground isn't frozen. The good thing about traps is you get to have a dead body to show off! Catch enough & make yourself a moleskin coat:laugh::laugh:

rcreech
01-28-2010, 09:18 PM
I would question how well anything would work this time of year!

Let us know if the trap works!

kirk1701
01-29-2010, 12:21 AM
I would question how well anything would work this time of year!

Let us know if the trap works!

I can't believe moles are even running this time of year. :confused:

I did put me a marker beside the trap, why? So I can find it in the 9" of snow we are getting starting tomorrow morning :drinkup:

Worst storm we have had in these parts since 1996 which was before I moved here.

kirk1701
01-29-2010, 09:53 AM
I would question how well anything would work this time of year!

Let us know if the trap works!

Does it work? Does it ever work holy :realmad: cow!!!

Took what 18 hours? The snow has not even got here yet and I can pack the runs down!!!

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-29-2010, 10:02 AM
Congrats! If they are making new runs, there isn't a reason the traps shouldn't work. Get stated on that moleskin coat!:laugh:

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-29-2010, 10:16 AM
I've got 3 moles when I made rounds & checked traps last week when temps were warmer & ground was thawed, but now ground is hard as a rock-It's 10 degrees here now:cry:

kirk1701
01-29-2010, 10:17 AM
Congrats! If they are making new runs, there isn't a reason the traps shouldn't work. Get stated on that moleskin coat!:laugh:

Hell I'm hoping he's the last one :rolleyes:

I did just pack the runs down, threw out some seed in the area around where I pulled up the trap ahead of this snow. Didn't make too much of a bald spot either which was real nice.

Question, should a clean the trap to get the scent off it before I reuse it?

rcreech
01-29-2010, 11:21 AM
NICE!!!!!!

That is great news!

Maybe I should trap in the winter!

RigglePLC
01-29-2010, 11:32 AM
Rinse the trap--but don't worry too much about the scent. Moles live underground, their sense of touch and hearing are excellent. other senses--not so much.

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-29-2010, 11:43 AM
Rinse the trap--but don't worry too much about the scent. Moles live underground, their sense of touch and hearing are excellent. other senses--not so much.

Actually their sense of smell is quite good-They mark thier runs/territory daily by pissing in them-if other moles come by & it hasn't been marked recently, they'll move right in on the tunnel system. Must be able to smell pretty decent??????

kirk1701
01-29-2010, 12:27 PM
Actually their sense of smell is quite good-They mark thier runs/territory daily by pissing in them-if other moles come by & it hasn't been marked recently, they'll move right in on the tunnel system. Must be able to smell pretty decent??????

To add to that I've been told here to even use gloves when baiting with talprid. They smell your scent you've wasted your time and bait.

kirk1701
01-29-2010, 02:48 PM
We'll, trap is back out so I got more then one but not for long :laugh:

I figured there was more then one which was why I packed everything down real good so I could tell if there were new activity.

Actually that pic I posted a while back with the hole going straight down tells me I got a den :confused:

kirk1701
01-30-2010, 03:36 PM
I wouldn't believe this had I not seen it with my own eye's :drinkup:

2 out or 2 in 2 days :drinkup:

UN :realmad: BELIEVABLE!!!

I knew the trap was tripped this morning, we got 6" of snow yesterday and last night and had it not been tripped I wouldn't had been able to see it.

Since I could see the top of the trap sticking up out of the snow I knew then and there I got another one.

Now, time for that mole skin coat. :drinkup:

By the way, was too lazy and cold out to wash the trap, stuck it back in the run and set without washing after getting the last dead mole out of it? :clapping:

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-30-2010, 05:29 PM
I wouldn't believe this had I not seen it with my own eye's :drinkup:

2 out or 2 in 2 days :drinkup:

UN :realmad: BELIEVABLE!!!

I knew the trap was tripped this morning, we got 6" of snow yesterday and last night and had it not been tripped I wouldn't had been able to see it.

Since I could see the top of the trap sticking up out of the snow I knew then and there I got another one.

Now, time for that mole skin coat. :drinkup:

By the way, was too lazy and cold out to wash the trap, stuck it back in the run and set without washing after getting the last dead mole out of it? :clapping:

That's why I'm going to 100% trapping for moles this year:)

Must be why Bell Labs now makes a Talpirid trap.......:)

CHARLES CUE
01-30-2010, 07:00 PM
Kirk1701 Nice job traping keep up the good work

Libertylandscaping bell labs hasn't bell around for like 25 years those are old traps

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
01-30-2010, 09:57 PM
Kirk1701 Nice job traping keep up the good work

Libertylandscaping bell labs hasn't bell around for like 25 years those are old traps


:confused: I realize other mole traps have been around for years:rolleyes:

I'm saying Bell Labs (makers of Talpirid) now offer the "Talpirid" mole trap made by them. Obviously even they don't beleive Talpirid bait is the cure all for moles..... Here is a link to their new trap
http://www.belllabs.com/product_details/united-states-pest-control-talpirid-mole-trap

Barefoot James
01-31-2010, 04:13 PM
I wouldn't believe this had I not seen it with my own eye's :drinkup:

2 out or 2 in 2 days :drinkup:

UN :realmad: BELIEVABLE!!!

I knew the trap was tripped this morning, we got 6" of snow yesterday and last night and had it not been tripped I wouldn't had been able to see it.

Since I could see the top of the trap sticking up out of the snow I knew then and there I got another one.

Now, time for that mole skin coat. :drinkup:

By the way, was too lazy and cold out to wash the trap, stuck it back in the run and set without washing after getting the last dead mole out of it? :clapping:

Awesome job check out www.themoleman.com
out of Cincinnatti, OH. He is one of the best in the country for trapping moles makes great money doing it.

rcreech
01-31-2010, 04:49 PM
I am a 100% believer in using Talparid as it has made me a lot of money over the last 4 years...but you are starting to make me wonder if I shouldn't be trapping in the winter months! :)

Thanks Kirk!!!!!

kirk1701
01-31-2010, 05:01 PM
Awesome job check out www.themoleman.com
out of Cincinnatti, OH. He is one of the best in the country for trapping moles makes great money doing it.
Yea I have this bookmarked for a long time :clapping:

I am a 100% believer in using Talparid as it has made me a lot of money over the last 4 years...but you are starting to make me wonder if I shouldn't be trapping in the winter months! :)

Thanks Kirk!!!!!

No Problem, and as I said in the first post to this new trap I run up on it accidentally :laugh:

Best part of all to this, no digging, doesn't create to big of a hole either as the spikes are closed when you put it in the ground and when you pull it up the only hole you create is what the dead mole pulls up :drinkup:

kirk1701
02-11-2010, 06:10 PM
Hey everyone
I'm liking this trap better than talprid???

talprid $45

Trap $19.95 lifetime :rolleyes:
And PRICELESS!!!

I moved the trap today since I could find runs where the snow melted, didn't have any success where I had it set so.

Put in at 2PM and these pics were took at the site at 4:30 PM same day.
I tried to show how big a hole this leaves when you pull it up.

Last pic is up toward the shed and as you can see, snow still covers the ground and more on the way this weekend :dizzy:
And I'm thinking about the first application of weed control? LMAO!!!

Some of you have PM'ed asking for the name of the trap. Its called "Easy Mole Trap" and this is all I could find online.
http://www.themoletrap.com/index.php?gclid=CJXv_p6Nyp8CFZMK5Qod1BBPtg

Now I will say mine was $20 and the box is a lot different then shown in this link but that is what the trap looks like.

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
02-11-2010, 06:51 PM
Talpirid is one step up from hocus pocus. Glad to see the trap is working!

kirk1701
02-11-2010, 10:11 PM
Talpirid is one step up from hocus pocus. Glad to see the trap is working!

Like I said, Talpirid you assume it works which is what I did. I also tried different traps and ended up digging up half my yard and think I caught two moles all last year. Then I learned about the human scent so I was careful when setting them and still had no luck.

But this trap, and to have by chance accidentally run acoss it just seems too good to be true, I'm three moles in three weeks and had it in the ground in four spots :drinkup:

grassman177
02-11-2010, 11:06 PM
that is great. i have a few yards that are getting reamed by moles, right next to forrest and a creek. i dont want to spend tons of time trapping and it can get expensive on labor to the customer and may not get results. that is my fear to offer the service and then they mad at me for not curing the issue, plus they are jsut going to come back over and over again. any suggestions at prevention?? these are all post control.

american says he treats for insects all year to help prevent, but i am leary of this.

comments and ideas?

kirk1701
02-11-2010, 11:16 PM
that is great. i have a few yards that are getting reamed by moles, right next to forrest and a creek. i dont want to spend tons of time trapping and it can get expensive on labor to the customer and may not get results. that is my fear to offer the service and then they mad at me for not curing the issue, plus they are jsut going to come back over and over again. any suggestions at prevention?? these are all post control.

american says he treats for insects all year to help prevent, but i am leary of this.

comments and ideas?

No idea's but I can tell you I have treated for insects as experiments, I even put out 32-0-0 around the perimeter last year thinking the nitrogen would burn their skin :dizzy:

Fat Chance!!

I've tried the grub control and extra thick around the perimeter of the yard still no go. Just to find out later their main source of food is earth worms which of course you do not want to kill them. So I tried the caster oil which coats the worms with a scent they don't like and then leave.

WRONG AGAIN :hammerhead:

I'm not giving up on talprid, but I will use it sparingly due to expense, I would rather see them dead with a trap :)

grassman177
02-12-2010, 09:24 AM
thanks, what i thought too. there is not any one here in town(have to hire out of towners) that does mole trapping etc. it would be a good market to get into if i had a sure fire way to get them and have results near ever time at least.

kirk1701
02-17-2010, 01:48 PM
Hey Everyone
You can find it on EEEEE-BAAAAY!!!!! :clapping:

:cool2::cool2::cool2:

The one I run across is a knock off of the original I posted the link of above which has a patent on it.

I just ordered two more of the knock off's from e-bay and here's a link for those interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110487306366

and their web site:
(Which is how I knew they were on e-bay I got the web site from the owners manual)
http://www.aroundthehome.com/Easy_Mole_Traps1.html

TL1981
03-04-2010, 07:48 PM
Picked up 4 of these from the local Tractor Supply today. They are $19.99 which is cheaper than the eBay after shipping. Woulda grabbed more but thats all they had on the shelf. Gotta be honest and tell ya that I'm a little excited about using them-LOL-it's kinda like hunting. hehehe :)

rcreech
03-04-2010, 08:33 PM
No idea's but I can tell you I have treated for insects as experiments, I even put out 32-0-0 around the perimeter last year thinking the nitrogen would burn their skin :dizzy:

Fat Chance!!

I've tried the grub control and extra thick around the perimeter of the yard still no go. Just to find out later their main source of food is earth worms which of course you do not want to kill them. So I tried the caster oil which coats the worms with a scent they don't like and then leave.

WRONG AGAIN :hammerhead:

I'm not giving up on talprid, but I will use it sparingly due to expense, I would rather see them dead with a trap :)

Are these traps very hard to set? I have never been big on traps buy may try using them in special instances with mole bait.

Thanks,
RC

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
03-04-2010, 08:56 PM
Are these traps very hard to set? I have never been big on traps buy may try using them in special instances with mole bait.

Thanks,
RC

Not these... You push the pointed closed "scissor jaws" into the center of the run & step on it with your foot. Pops up when the "turkeys done":laugh:

kirk1701
03-04-2010, 11:20 PM
Not these... You push the pointed closed "scissor jaws" into the center of the run & step on it with your foot. Pops up when the "turkeys done":laugh:

Yea, like Liberty said :drinkup:

Just don't stuff the mole with dressing and you'll be fine.

rcreech
03-05-2010, 07:16 AM
Wonder how the steel unit compares to the Talparid unit?
Wonder which would be the best buy?
Posted via Mobile Device

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
03-05-2010, 08:30 AM
Wonder how the steel unit compares to the Talparid unit?
Wonder which would be the best buy?
Posted via Mobile Device

I just got some of the Talirid units & am not impressed. One jaw is stationary so you have to manually make slits in the ground for them to work correctly. I would stick with steel ones.....

kirk1701
03-05-2010, 10:28 AM
Suddenly my moles have disapeared? :sleeping:

I see a rise now and then but it's only just that, don't even go for 1' long. I set the trap but it never comes back.

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
03-05-2010, 08:02 PM
Suddenly my moles have disapeared? :sleeping:

I see a rise now and then but it's only just that, don't even go for 1' long. I set the trap but it never comes back.


You sound dissapointed:laugh:

SeedPro
03-05-2010, 08:08 PM
Talprid or bromethalin worms work fantastic. If they aren't working for you you are doing something wrong.

SeedPro
03-05-2010, 08:09 PM
Suddenly my moles have disapeared? :sleeping:

I see a rise now and then but it's only just that, don't even go for 1' long. I set the trap but it never comes back.

Maybe the talpirid actually worked then.

Problem solved.

kirk1701
03-05-2010, 11:01 PM
Talprid or bromethalin worms work fantastic. If they aren't working for you you are doing something wrong.

Read back a few pages in this thread, I was using Talprid with no luck; come to find out from other members here it was due to the cold temps.

Then I ran across this trap by accident but guess everything happens for a reason :laugh:

I guess you can say the shields on the Enterprise are at 95%, Scotty is working on the sensors and phasers are on standby :drinkup:

DawgGrad00
03-06-2010, 02:08 PM
Last year, we had a problem on a property with moles/chipmunks eating the root system of a mass of cast iron plants. We were recommended to use a granular product that our supplier referred to as "milky spores". We applied it twice with a 21 day interval and we ever had any more problems the rest of the year. I can't remember what the chemical name was and if anyone out there knows it, please let me know. But it may be something that you could look into.

Rayholio
03-06-2010, 02:13 PM
Milky spores is a repellant.. and I've heard that it works... but they can (and probably will) come back eventually..

Just kill the bastards. :)

Rayholio
03-06-2010, 02:14 PM
BTW.. the secret to talprid is to plant it with a clean knife, or pliers.. Moles are VERY sesative to smell, and if you touch it, you greatly decrease the chance of uptake..

TL1981
03-10-2010, 08:49 AM
Have any of you considered using a human scent neutrilizer on the traps and rods (the dowel you use to poke a hole in the run) instead of other methods of removing scent? Some of these scents have been proven to eliminate 99.9% of human scent by university studies and they come in a handy spray bottle.

frotis
04-08-2010, 12:46 PM
This style trap works great also. Sometimes its hard to figure out where to put the trap if the tunnels are all clustered together.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/168907_lg.jpg

kirk1701
04-08-2010, 04:09 PM
This style trap works great also. Sometimes its hard to figure out where to put the trap if the tunnels are all clustered together.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/168907_lg.jpg

I tried those, box stores like lowe's have them and they were the first thing I tried when I started having problems.

Side note I do have a temper and think that trap is half way to the moon right now :laugh:

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
04-08-2010, 05:09 PM
This style trap works great also. Sometimes its hard to figure out where to put the trap if the tunnels are all clustered together.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/168907_lg.jpg

The problem with those is you have to dig up the dirt to see if you really got the mole. The scissor traps have them pinched in there & they come out with the trap-usually without puncturing their skin, so no blood all over the trap:)

kirk1701
06-16-2010, 03:03 PM
Milky spores is a repellant.. and I've heard that it works... but they can (and probably will) come back eventually..

Just kill the bastards. :)

I used to believe that to.

Trial and error proved otherwise I stick these in the ground kill after kill and never clean it.

I think I'm going to start mounting them, this makes about the fourth one this week. :)

o2JC_6ik354

kirk1701
06-24-2010, 03:54 PM
I think I'm enjoying this way more then I possibly should be but..:laugh:

Set last night at 7 PM tripped today around 1 PM dead meat.

Best $55 I ever spent for mole control.

Might I add I'm not cleaning anything inbetween trappings, drop dead meat in trash and stick back in the ground.

RigglePLC
06-24-2010, 09:49 PM
OMG, Kirk! Score. I couldn't help but watch. Yuck--but I watched it twice. Think of the nice soft fur earmuffs you can make.
I am thinking you don't handle with gloves or clean the traps between kills.
Exactly what kind of trap is it?

kirk1701
06-24-2010, 11:37 PM
OMG, Kirk! Score. I couldn't help but watch. Yuck--but I watched it twice. Think of the nice soft fur earmuffs you can make.
I am thinking you don't handle with gloves or clean the traps between kills.
Exactly what kind of trap is it?

Go back to page 9 of this thread, thats where I posted pics of the trap brand new compared to the side of a dollar bill.

here's the link
http://www.aroundthehome.com/Easy_Mole_Traps1.html

Accidentally run across it at Tractor supply and only had one left so EBayed 2 more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Easy-Set-Mole-Eliminator-Trap-Pest-Lawn-Care-NIB-/170504501803?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b2dc3a2b

And NO, don't use no gloves, wash off with water sometimes and put away till the next time otherwise the blood and guts go back in the run for the next trapping :laugh:

Scan forward from Pg 9 I've been catching left and right faster then a bass on a nightcrawler :drinkup:

Freedom1955
07-11-2010, 04:29 PM
Just want to thank Kirk1701 for sharing his experience with the Easy Mole Trap:clapping:. This summer I've had a lot of moles in my yard and was not having any luck with one of those spike mole traps so I came to this site hoping to find out how to get the little suckers. Found out about the EMT from Kirkq701 with pictures and went out to buy one. I called TSC and they were all sold out:mad:. The sales person checked all of the TSC's within 75 miles of me and none had any:cry:. They checked the warehouse and they didn't have any in stock. Obviously the word is out about this mole trap.
I got lucky and found one at the local ACE hardware store but had to pay a premium for it and I must say it was worth it. I caught a mole in no time:cool2:.

R&S Lawn Care
07-11-2010, 04:48 PM
I've always used Marten's bait. It is grain coated w/ stricnyne. I probe the tunnels with a piece of re-bar then funnel in some bait. When they come to cover the hole, they eat some tasty grain and bleed to death from the anticoagulant property of the A.I. Works well.

kirk1701
07-11-2010, 05:24 PM
Just want to thank Kirk1701 for sharing his experience with the Easy Mole Trap:clapping:. This summer I've had a lot of moles in my yard and was not having any luck with one of those spike mole traps so I came to this site hoping to find out how to get the little suckers. Found out about the EMT from Kirkq701 with pictures and went out to buy one. I called TSC and they were all sold out:mad:. The sales person checked all of the TSC's within 75 miles of me and none had any:cry:. They checked the warehouse and they didn't have any in stock. Obviously the word is out about this mole trap.
I got lucky and found one at the local ACE hardware store but had to pay a premium for it and I must say it was worth it. I caught a mole in no time:cool2:.

I got myself two more off e-bay after getting the last one TSC had.

They are all over e-bay just do seach for "Easy Mole Trap" and you'll find dozens.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NIB-NEW-EASY-MOLE-PEST-RODENT-TRAPS-EASY-SET-DESIGN-/140423398079?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b1e302bf

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Easy-Set-Mole-Eliminator-Trap-Pest-Lawn-Care-NIB-/180526554312?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a08389cc8

Freedom1955
07-11-2010, 08:46 PM
I got myself two more off e-bay after getting the last one TSC had.

They are all over e-bay just do seach for "Easy Mole Trap" and you'll find dozens.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NIB-NEW-EASY-MOLE-PEST-RODENT-TRAPS-EASY-SET-DESIGN-/140423398079?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b1e302bf

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Easy-Set-Mole-Eliminator-Trap-Pest-Lawn-Care-NIB-/180526554312?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a08389cc8

Thanks for the links but I'm a step ahead of ya. After I couldn't find any at TSC I ordered one off Ebay which should be arriving shortly, paid 28.00 shipped but I didn't give up (I'm impatient)and then found one at Ace which I promptly snatched up!:cool2:

kirk1701
07-11-2010, 10:41 PM
Thanks for the links but I'm a step ahead of ya. After I couldn't find any at TSC I ordered one off Ebay which should be arriving shortly, paid 28.00 shipped but I didn't give up (I'm impatient)and then found one at Ace which I promptly snatched up!:cool2:

Best $28 for mole control you'll ever spend. :clapping:

Like the enegizer bunny they just keep killing and killing and killing :laugh: