Where can I buy a nice oil drain valve for a 17HP Kawasaki?

[genesis215]

I am going to be changing the oil on my 52" Exmark Turf Tracer HP w. 17HP FH500V Kawasaki, and wondered where I could get a nice oil drain valve for it. I had a really nice one on a mower that I sold, where you just hooked up a hose, turned a knob on the end of the valve counter-clockwise, and the oil drained out really nicely. It was all metal, no plastic. All I have been able to find are ones that either don't match the threads of the engine, or that are much inferior to the one I had in design and quality. Any help on which oil drain valves you like and use would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

1997 Ford E150 Tuscany Conversion Van - 5.4L Triton V8 (235HP)
2008 5'x13' Open Trailer w. Jack & 3' Gate
52" Exmark Turf Tracer HP - 17HP Kawasaki
21" Troy-Bilt 3-in-1 Self-Propelled Mower - 5.5HP Honda
21" Troy-Bilt 3-in-1 Push Mower - 5.5HP Honda
21" Yard Machines 2-in-1 Push Mower - 4.5HP Briggs & Stratton Sprint
22" Craftsman Hi-Wheel Trimmer - 6.5HP Tecumseh
22" Murray Hi-Wheel Trimmer - 6.0HP Briggs & Stratton Quantum
Husqvarna 600CRT Rear-Tine Tiller - 6.0HP Briggs & Stratton Intek
RedMax TR2300S String Trimmer
Shindaiwa LE260 Edger
STIHL BR 600 Backpack Blower
STIHL 024 AVS Chainsaw

[pugs]

Kawasaki makes some adapters that you can attach the engine on one end and the other end is standard pipe thread. Then you can attach any kind of pipe/elbows/valves to that.

You will need the adapter and might as well replace the o-ring while you are at it and then some pipe.

Depending on what you have going on you will probably have to remove the engine from the machine or at least loosen it up quite a bit to get clearance to thread a valve on.

The adapter is 59071-7004 and the o-ring is 670D2016. I also spotted some kind of kawasaki valve on one of the engines when I was looking these up. Not sure what exactly that one is. If thats the one you are looking for it is 49116-7001.

[RonAyersMotorsports]

I still don't understand why people don't consult local dealers before trying to outsource there dealer. That's whats wrong with this country everyone trying to cut out the working man.

[mowerknower]

I still don't understand why people don't consult local dealers before trying to outsource there dealer. That's whats wrong with this country everyone trying to cut out the working man.

Yep, Everyone thinks the dealer is going to rip them off so they spend a lot of time trying to bypass them. I guess its ok if your time isnt worth anything but to me time is money and Id rather pay the dealer than searching for it myself.

[topsites]

All right, I just made this modification to both an old Kohler M20 and a newer
Kohler CV-15, now I can't say for sure because...

And it's not a valve, some thing still has to be unscrewed when changing the oil, much like before but
the nipple (steel tubes) allowed me to extend the oil outlet to where I wanted it.
So, no more oil all over my deck, and no getting my hands near that hot engine either.

Here's the deal:
I used various devices from the plumbing section of Home Depot but before I ran out that way,
after I drained the oil I stuck the plug in my pocket, replaced the oil filter but left it sitting while I ran off.

That way, when I got there I was quickly able to figure out from the plug that I had with me that I needed 3/8" stuff.
Even more interestingly, the very oil plug in my hand is a part they sell there,
and it's called a 3/8" plug, yes it's the same dang thing.

Basically they have these 2", 3", 4" and 6" pieces of small steel pipes except they call these things 'nipples' :laugh:
And these are lengths of steel tubing with two threaded male ends.

Before I give you the link...
Keep in mind the two male ends of the nipple!!!
One end of this nipple screws into the engine, now providing a steel tube extension, but the other end...
You will either need a CAP to seal this off (but there's no hex head on these) or, you can get a coupling
which you can thread onto the nipple and then insert the plug in the other end.

But take a look around, click the links under 'Category'
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?Ntk=AllProps&N=10000003+90176+528207&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&langId=-1

Oh and stay away from the Brass stuff (mucho $$$$).

I spent about $25, took me two trips :p
I got parts left over :laugh:

[topsites]

Yes, of course I took pictures :p
Although it is night, the flash worked but I couldn't get but so good an angle due to I could not see.

The first is the CV-15, basically I used a 3/8" 6" long nipple which I then
screwed a 3/8" coupling onto, and that's where the plug goes.

The pretty oil splotch all over my deck is, you guessed it, from draining the oil before installing this.
That pipe (no, it's called a nipple) extends the location of that oil plug out to the side, making it easy to drain.
The first picture is from the side, the second shows how it goes in the engine:

[topsites]

Other notes:
Make sure to tighten the nipple and couplings or what you use pretty good so the plug can come out while the piping stays in.

The M20 turned out bad ass if I do say so, the pic sucks.
But it is an actual faucet, just turn the handle and out it drains LOL!
Although I disconnected the actual handle and keep it in my toolbox so it can't be turned open accidentally on purpose.

Also I am concerned, there is a rubber seal inside of that faucet, if this melts due to heat transfer from the engine then oil will leak...
However there exists about 10 inches of pipe in this case, the angle of the picture doesn't show there's an L behind you can't see,
anyhow I am hoping this is enough distance that the heat will dissipate before it harms the gasket but this will have to be watched closely.

[topsites]

All right I went out with the flash light and got a better picture.

Basically coming from the engine it's a 3/8" nipple 6" long followed by a 90-degree ELL and a shorter 4" nipple (also 3/8")
which then attaches to a 3/8" > 1/2" adaptor because the faucet is 1/2"

The ONLY other thing I can think of, in terms of handles that you can turn on / off...
Is pneumatic tool supplies, like stuff used for air tools.
But I don't know, other than a shut-off handle, about compatibility and what have you.
This plumbing crap thou, it works!

I can, if the faucet doesn't work out, just go back to using a plug at the end (1/2" in this case).

btw that oil filter is from Advance Auto, it has a grippy surface.
So if this works out (no leaks) then this machine is good for some NO TOOLS oil changes :D

[ed2hess]

Good job Tops!!! Teach em how to use their brains....maybe you can show them how to take off bolt nuts without a air wrench next week.

[Jay Ray]

The post with the parts numbers is very useful because if there are lines at the dealer, you can get in and out a little faster. My parts counter guy always thanks me for bringing a written list with parts numbers.

[foreplease]

I still don't understand why people don't consult local dealers before trying to outsource there dealer. That's whats wrong with this country everyone trying to cut out the working man.

I am having the same problem as the OP except that mine is slightly larger Kawasaki. Nothing would make me happier than to find the parts at my local dealer or have him be able to find them for me. While I have a great relationship with him, I have now been there three times with more information and different ideas. I am now trying to help him as well as myself. Last trip in I took him a 276 page catalog I found online and put on CD for him.

If the manufacturers want to help all of us, they can either make this stuff easily available, change the poor design of the oil plug, or stop shipping stuff to USA with 20 mm 2.5 pitch threads. On this particular problem, I have been a burden to my dealer and I don't like that.

[pugs]

I am having the same problem as the OP except that mine is slightly larger Kawasaki. Nothing would make me happier than to find the parts at my local dealer or have him be able to find them for me. While I have a great relationship with him, I have now been there three times with more information and different ideas. I am now trying to help him as well as myself. Last trip in I took him a 276 page catalog I found online and put on CD for him.

If the manufacturers want to help all of us, they can either make this stuff easily available, change the poor design of the oil plug, or stop shipping stuff to USA with 20 mm 2.5 pitch threads. On this particular problem, I have been a burden to my dealer and I don't like that.

First of all they arent shipped here. All kawasaki V-twins are made here in the USA. Second, that part that I listed adapts the kawasaki threads to standard pipe thread. I am pretty sure that it is listed in the update book that is handed out each year at the update school as well. So it should be very easy to find.

[foreplease]

I appreciate the help and did check out the three part numbers you provided before I posted. It said "joint" with not enough other information to make me comfortable ordering it given the problem I have had finding exactly what I need.

Thanks for the correction on shipping here vs manufacturing here. I am an end user and not too good as a mechanic. It seems the newer model years are coming with a built in pull and turn type drain valve but my dealer and I are both having trouble adapting mine. I will ask him about your part number and see if he can order it. Thank you.

[snapper]

exmark sells a really nice hose that connects to the drain port and runs off to the side of the machine where it is secured, then there is a cap on the end you remove to drain the oil. Look at a newer walk behind and it should have one. It is the best i have seen to drain one. It think they are a little pricey but well worth it.. looks like it might be exmark pn 109-0877 hope this helps..

Later!! chris

[snapper]

That is the newer style drain hose with a cap on the end. I can find the exmark pn's for the old style valve if you want.


Later!! chris

[topsites]

Good job Tops!!! Teach em how to use their brains....maybe you can show them how to take off bolt nuts without a air wrench next week.

The sick of it is, although I still would have had to run to HD for some of the parts,
yesterday I found the plumbing attachment that went to my oldest Kohler which I
replaced two years ago... :p

What I did find of interest is the attachment I found had a 6-sided cap sealing off the nipple, so one could use a wrench to loosen it...
I didn't see any 6-sided caps at HD but evidently they do exist.

Among other notes of interest...
Before the snow hit I was working on that red Kohler and found a problem with the carburetor's governor linkage...
At one end a small end piece had snapped off and someone had secured it on there with, get this, twist ties :p
Although I could respect the quick fix, I wanted it done right, I knew already a new linkage is like $10!
Wth, 10 bucks for a stupid piece of steel wire, I thought...

About 30 minutes later with the use of a bench vise and some needle nose pliers
I had fabricated myself an identical linkage out of coat hanger wire.
Works great.

[DJL50]

I have a 2005 52" Toro zero turn Z400 Estate with a Kawasaki V twin. It has a valve as you speak of. Not sure if this a Kaw part or a Toro part. My be worth a look.

[foreplease]

I returned to this thread to say thanks to pugs. He was right about that part number. I took it to my dealer Friday. He looked it up and found a drawing showing how and where it fit. It arrived already today. So I am in 3/8" pipe threads now and should be able to handle it from here.

This board can really be handy sometimes. Thank you pugs.

[pugs]

No prob. I was wrong about the update books. They do not have that part listed. They only have the plastic extension tubes in there it seems.

I have been stocking those adapters for a while now. They come on Bobcat walkbehinds with Kawasakis. Not really sure why Bobcat chooses that adapter since they just put a pipe plug in it and no extension or anything....but since we sell/service them thats probably where I found it.

I should order one of those other parts I found because I think thats a pretty nice drain similar to one on the Exmark that we did an engine swap on today.

[aVOLanche]

Here's a product from J-Thomas that works well.It twists to open and then drains the oil through a piece of hose or vinyl tube.You just unscrew the short pipe nipple and screw this drain into place.The yellow cap pops loose,then you twist the drain.The oil drains a little slower than through the OEM pipe,but is OK.Part # PT-6783 Oil Drain Valve.